February 2001
After a very long boat ride through the Chilean fjords of Patagonia - a very similar trip to the Inside Passage of Canada and the USA [see: Alaska and Yukon - planes, ferries, buses, and trains] - we arrived at the surprisingly flat Puerto Natales. This remote town in the "Great White South" of Chile was windswept and flat (in spite of being surrounded by mountains which were all in the distance). We were on our way to the legendary "Torres del Paine" mountains, some of the most photographed in the world. We fully expected Puerto Natales would give a hint of the grandeur we were about to encounter. Alas, no.
In fact it is located on the "Ultima Esperanza Sound" named by those who frustratedly tried to find their way between the many islands of Tierra del Fuego on that one passage that connects Atlantic and Pacific. Puerto Natales was not our "last hope", but our expectations were extremely high because of the scenery preceding. We had been on the Navimag Ferry for 4 days passing through unending stunning scenery (and a lot of empty wilderness). Many tourists on the boat were excited about heading to Torres del Paine, and the cruise down through all those snow-capped mountains and deep blue sea was an incredible build up. In the end the boat only reached small, dull, and flat Puerto Natales. Everyone was deflated.
From Puerto Natales the road extended to Punta Arenas (a much larger town) and the road/boat connection continued onward through the heart of Tierra del Fuego. In the opposite direction the road headed north, never far from the Argentine border, yet minu any official crossings. The end of the road was Torres del Paine National Park. Since we had arrived in the late afternoon, we didn't need an overnight in uninspiring Puerto Natales. Additionally, we were happy to be off the ship and on the way to a much anticipated destination.
The empty two-lane road took us north through vast tracks of emptiness. All of the passengers in the van (there were many of us headed to the park) looked at the mountains in the distance, yet there was no hint of the destination. Those signature mountains were so distinct, there would be no missing them. As with other such destinations (like the Grand Canyon), they only became visible when we were literally on top of them.
Puerto Natales' disappointing blandness as the end of the line for our fabulous ferry ride was instantly forgotten. Torres del Paine was even more beautiful than we had imagined.
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