January 2026 Archaeological evidence places the earliest human presence in the Chacchoben region around 1000 BC. Excavations reveal a complex history of occupation, abandonment, and resettlement. The site's structures bear the marks of multiple modifications, with the most significant alterations occurring between 300 and 360 AD, a period of notable development and change. Archaeological evidence indicates that Chacchoben continued to hold ceremonial significance long after

After visiting the cold and cloudy lake, I returned through the park to the Art Institute. I hoped to pop inside for a few photos of the lobby, but it was strictly on a time-entry ticket basis due to COVID. No worries - Brian and I had visited years before. I love the collection - especially the French Impressionists. Not far from the Art Institute I stumbled across the start of Route 66. One of my brother's long-held dreams is to travel its length. My image of that f

I discovered my travel notes of our first big trip to Flores. They don't diverge too much from my earlier post based on photos and memory, but they add more detail and depth. I forgot most of the people we met along the way with the exception of the friend we visited. Most importantly for me, my memories of Flores conveniently erased frustrating details. Re-reading the journal entry surprised me 30 years after the event. I was happy to revisit the "lowlights" of the trip

Rose Garden After crossing Michigan Avenue, I entered Grant Park on the way to the lake. I passed yet another statue of Lincoln and thought "Oh my God enough" (after my stay in Springfield among lots of Lincoln likenesses). The gardens are meticulously maintained and on a rainy day during COVID there was virtually no one around. I literally stumbled upon the Buckingham Fountain (I had forgotten about it). The place is one of the symbols of the city and has appeared in co

December 2021 Great Falls of the Potomac is one of those places whose name outsizes what actually exists. The falls are absolutely beautiful, but they are more a series of rapids than a classic waterfall. In the past, they also created a serious barrier to small boats navigating the Potomac. The name came from the difficulty in getting by them - not from being some "Niagara-like" cataract. When I lived in Washington in younger days, I rode my bicycle to the falls from th

December 2022 "Aloo, aloo" - the man called up to the high-rise apartments in my neighborhood. Someone would shout down from the window and usually send a child or servant with money to pick up a few kilos. When I took this photo the man was astonished that I wanted to photograph his shop-on-a-tricycle. For a plant that is native to South America, it certainly made vital inroads into Bengal. Potatoes are found in a wide variety of dishes and I am certain Bangladeshi chi

July 2021 After suddenly cancelling part of my trip due to increased COVID cases, I struck northward. Although I thought time in Chicago would be nice, I had already visited the city - the focus of the jubilee trip was on seeing new places. In fact, it was easy to book Amtrak tickets to Milwaukee, but I overnighted in Chicago because I didn't want to arrive late in Milwaukee (and I wasn't confident about changing trains due to Amtrak's frequent delays). So it was that I

October 2025 The Highland Park community of Los Angeles is just northeast of Downtown and is considered part of NELA. It’s main street – Figueroa Street – was part of the Transitional (1932-1934) and Alternate (1936-1940) Alignments of Route 66. This main drag was replaced on December 30, 1940 with the Arroyo Seco Parkway, which would itself become Route 66. Thus, Highland Park is the first community along Route 66 to be bypassed by a freeway. Highland Park has always been a

July 2021 The journey to Chicago from St Louis takes about five hours by train. It was my first "big flat" crossing of the trip. I had seen half of the scenery before on the train from Normal, but I didn't get a window seat (as the train did not originate in Normal). On the trip to Chicago, I made sure to secure a view. On the plus side, while Amtrak in the Northeast almost purposely seems to run through industrial blight and lovely views from the train are few and far b

Brian and I took a long weekend to travel to Central and East Java to visit local friends' we made in Jakarta in their village as well as a beautiful beach we heard about. The trip also allowed us to explore some more far-flung temples that few people visited. This is a piece I wrote directly after returning that fills in many gaps in the earlier blog posts. 1996 Yogyakarta Whump! What a hard landing, the final insult from Merpati Airlines after a two-hour wait in the poo

July 2021. Before leaving I wanted to see at least one neighborhood in St. Louis. Just outside of downtown lies Soulard with its old market - highly recommended. Prior to any buildings, local farmers set up in a ring with horses and wagons, from which they would sell their goods. Some farmers would set up as early as 3 a.m., customers would arrive around 6 a.m., and by 10 a.m. the market would be full of people. In the late 1830s–1840s, a main market building was built and

July 2021 The first train pulled into Union Station on September 1, 1894 at 1:45pm, ushering in a new and exciting time for St. Louis. The city known for being the gateway to the West suddenly became a gateway to all of America. Over the next several years, Union Station would become one of the largest and busiest passenger rail terminals in the world. The station saw some of its highest traffic during the World’s Fair of 1904 and World War II. Travelers moved in droves thro

Bali 1995 In the pre-internet days, I was sent an Op-Ed from the New Yorker written by a woman who spent a holiday in Bali with friends living there. The focus was on how "strange" she felt living with people who had servants (a very guilty pleasure). I largely agreed with her take on the experience and wrote my own response. (I have edited and updated it) 1995 It is a hot summer day in Jakarta, but then again, every day is a hot summer day as there is little variation in

July 2021 With the exception of feeling sad that LaClede Landing was all that remained of Old St. Louis, I was still on a high about the city before I walked through "downtown" on my way to the former train station. My opinion of St Louis was about to change radically. I first passed the Federal Reserve Bank (not surprising given the past importance and location of the city). Then I entered downtown. Even during COVID, it was clear that the city center had fallen on ver

January 2020 While exploring a largely shuttered Valencia (due to Epiphany), I came across this outdoor painting. I was surprised mainly because Indonesian art is not very popular outside of Indonesia (with the exception of the Netherlands). What was even more striking to me was that it was not the entrance to an Indonesian restaurant - it appeared random. Wayang Golek in Valencia? I was filled with questions - it was all so unexpected. The mural was also "incorrect".

July 2021 All that remains of "Old St Louis" is the small neighborhood of LaClede's Landing down on the Mississippi. The area now is filled with shops and restaurants with a lovely path to walk along the river. It made me realize that St Louis is actually built far above the floodplain of the river (good choice), so it has escaped the ravages of flooding over the years. The quest for founding the city of St. Louis began in 1763, when a French merchant named Pierre Laclèd

December 2024 In South Asia, weddings (for those who can afford them) are over-the-top affairs. In Bangladesh, outdoor lights are used to announce the upcoming betrothal of a daughter. At a minimum the street adjacent to her family home becomes a tunnel of light. Sometimes entire buildings are decorated (multi-story units). It feels like Christmas for about a week and then they are gone. A huge business exists in providing such displays. As I lived in a wealthy enclav

July 2021 I was never compelled to visit the Gateway Arch. Built to impress, it always looked out of place in photos. In my case, it is a monument that needed to be visited in person. It IS impressive and overwhelming. I am so happy my travels led me to it. Beyond its memorial significance, the arch is something that can be photographed multiple angles at various times of day to yield very beautiful (and different) results. I became an arch fan shortly after walking u

June 2018 Toledo’s former major Synagogue, today Santa María la Blanca, is an icon of the city and of sephardic history in it. Its white columns have been a symbol of Toledo for centuries, transporting visitors to a bygone era and offering a haven of peace in today’s bustling world. The monument is well preserved, allowing visitors to appreciate its original design. The large surrounding garden offers a space to relax and enjoy a unique experience. Recently, an innovative LE