Diamond Jubilee: Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Ohio
- Matthew P G
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Getting there
AQ and I decided to head south to Marietta on the Ohio River. On the way there, we would pass by Cuyahoga Valley National Park and he recommended it (as did others) very highly. The park was never big on my list to visit, but I was intrigued that such a place existed in the East (next to a big city no less). I was surprised that it started just south of the Cleveland suburbs.
The CUYAHOGA VALLEY NATIONAL PARK (formerly the Cuyahoga Valley National Recreation Area) was created by an act of Congress sponsored by Rep. John F. Seiberling and signed by Pres. Gerald Ford on 27 Dec. 1974. It designated 32,000 acres along 22 mi. of the CUYAHOGA RIVER in southern Cuyahoga and northern Summit counties as the third urban park in the Natl. Park system; the Golden Gate Natl. Recreation Area in San Francisco and the Gateway Natl. Recreation Area in New York City were established in 1972. The northern boundary of the park is at Rockside Rd. in VALLEY VIEW. The CVNRA was established to preserve the "scenic, recreational, natural, and historic" values of undeveloped land between Cleveland and Akron, land threatened by commercial development and rapid population growth. Established officially on 26 June 1975, the CVNRA includes such already developed recreational facilities as the Virginia Kendall Park, Blossom Music Ctr., and Hale Farm & Village. Congress authorized $34.5 million for land acquisition over a 5-year period, and under the direction of Superintendent Wm. C. Birdsell, the Natl. Park Service and the Army Corps of Engineers embarked on a controversial land-buying spree that angered many people residing in the park area and politicians. By 1980 only 60% of the land had been acquired, at a cost of more than $42 million, and the Park Service had bought 306 of the 750 homes in the park area.
So, the CVNP's creation was very similar to the Tock's Island Dam project (Delaware Water Gap Park) near Milford in that by making it, the government "disappeared" a couple of small towns through eminent domain. There must also exist in area around CNVP the same level of mistrust toward the federal government. Although I applaud preserving the land for future generations, I can understand the public backlash. That also explains why so many private residences are sprinkled throughout the park. I wondered if the park is still acquiring land?
One other issue faced us on the visit - lack of rain. A lot of the highlights are waterfalls, but without rain, most were downright disappointing.
In the park
I was surprised that the first of the falls was literally located next to a suburb. The waterfall was "just ok". What was more amazing for me was the deep green valley right below the houses. Without the park, would that area have remained as pristine?
Tinkers Creek Falls
Another set of falls along the way
Industrial Past
Another interesting spot that AQ knew about was an old quarry. There we found very old millstones. He was surprised at how much they resembled similar ones in Saudi Arabia. The park was not only filled with natural wonders - it had a lot of historical remains.
millstones
All the small industries located in the river valley needed transport to Cleveland and Lake Erie. At first a canal (with locks) was built, but like everywhere else - it was replaced by a railroad. Both still exist in the park as part of its history.
Along the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath
Lunch
In the small town of Peninsula (not completely eaten up by the National Park acquisition) was a long-time-running restaurant, Fishers. We showed up around lunch time and I enjoyed a draught beer and an excellent reuben sandwich. I am not sure if the sandwich was actually great or if it was only a long time that I hadn't had one (we were still in COVID). That meal was one of the best of my whole trip!
yum
Unexpected terrain
Recommended by my brother (via his wife) was the part of the park known as "the Ledges". Totally different from the rest of the area, the place is centered on a sandstone peninsula that sticks out into the forest. It creates a strange landscape that people can hike around. We both found it interesting - like nothing else we had encountered. It was as if some alien feature had been pasted inside the forest.
the Ledges
Covered bridge
In a theme that would continue throughout Ohio and after, AQ and I looked for covered bridges. That bridge was his first, the Everett Covered Bridge. I liked it because it was built in a different style from the ones I knew back in Lancaster County, PA. AQ found it fascinating (at least this first one), too.
Everett Covered Bridge
A swamp
Before leaving the park, we saw signage about Beaver Marsh. Since it was not a detour, we parked and walked out on its boardwalk. Again, I was amazed at the diversity in CVNP. I had not expected a large wetland would exist with such deep river and creek valleys nearby. I am sure it makes a great spot for wildlife spotting.
Beaver March Boardwalk. June 2021
After exiting, we headed south toward Marietta. AQ wanted to stop for coffee in Akron at a place he liked. It was nearby and easy to find. The coffee was excellent - Akron was not. I felt depressed after such a great time in the park. Post-industrial blight never looks good especially on the heels of such great natural beauty.
After a brief stop in Kent for AQ to pick up some things, we headed south. We had several hours ahead of us to reach Marietta before day's end.
Final thoughts
In spite of the controversy over its creation, I applaud the federal government and the State of Ohio for recognizing a precious landscape before it was completely swallowed by development (which certainly would have happened). CVNP encompasses so many things - forest, gorges, waterfalls, swamps, canal, railway... it is not just a park to preserve nature, it is much more. Such the shame that people had to be forced out to create it.
I was happy we passed through. Yet again I thought Clevelanders were lucky people indeed to have a place like that at their doorstep.
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