Diamond Jubilee: Juneau Town, Milwaukee
- Matthew P G
- 23 hours ago
- 4 min read
On walks to and from the lake, I passed through the portion of downtown Milwaukee known as Juneau Town (or Downtown East). It holds a large number of buildings from the age when large structures were constructed to impress. In fact, Milwaukee reminded me more of Cleveland (another formerly great city on a lake) because of its large number of impressive downtown buildings
I passed over the Milwaukee River and immediately noted a large, restored building - the Pabst Theatre. "Pabst, beer", I thought. Milwaukee seemed to be the "City that Beer Built" (along with shipping and manufacturing). I continued on...
Right after the theatre I came upon City Hall and its famous clocktower. The building is massive and beautifully done. Amazingly, it is still used as City Hall, too.
Milwaukee City Hall was designed by architect Henry C. Koch in the Flemish Renaissance Revival style, based on both German precedent (for example, the Hamburg Rathaus or city hall), and local examples (the Pabst Building, demolished in 1981). Due to Milwaukee's historic German immigrant population, many of the surrounding buildings mirror this design. The foundation consists of 2,584 white pine piles that were driven into the marshy land surrounding the Milwaukee River.
(Wikipedia)
On the way back from the river, along the street that leads to the Milwaukee Art Museum [see: Quadracci Pavilioin, Milwaukee Art Museum] were scattered various sculptures.
Jim's Head with Branches
Blob Monster (now removed)
The parade of great architecture impressed me.
The Northern Trust Building was built in 1906 by architects Ferry and Clas. Originally built for the Northwestern National Life Insurance Company -- insurers of property owners and lake shippers against loss -- the building is highly decorated and one of Milwaukee's finest Beaux-Arts style structures. The Beaux-Arts style was popular in the United States during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and blends Greek, Roman, and Renaissance styles.
the Federal Building and U.S. Courthouse
It appears the DC "Old Post Office" design was a popular one. I saw it in several cities I visited.
Mitchell and Mackie Buildings
Mackie Building detail
Alexander Mitchell was a Scottish immigrant who came to the U.S. in 1839. By 1876 he was a successful businessman - president of the Wisconsin Marine and Fire Insurance Company Bank, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad, and the Northwestern National Insurance Company. He had also served two terms in the U.S. House of Representatives, representing Wisconsin's 4th District. Around that year he commissioned this new office building to house his bank and insurance companies. It replaced Mitchell's previous Marine Bank building and is believed to sit on the site of the home of Solomon Juneau, who founded Milwaukee in the 1830s. Mitchell hired prominent Milwaukee architect E. Townsend Mix to design his new building, and Mix came through with a 5-story rectangular block, in then-popular Second Empire style, with its first-story walls of gray Minnesota granite and upper walls of limestone, trimmed with multiple elaborate cornices and window hoods, with a complex mansard roof and an ornate central tower. Masonry contractor John Roberts carried out Mix's design. Francis A. Lydston decorated inside with frescoes. The interior was said to be as elaborate as the exterior, with marble floors, wainscot, and elegant staircases, but much of that has disappeared with remodeling. On completion in 1878, Mitchell's bank and insurance company took residence in the building. The bank remained until 1930. In 1879 the Mackie Building was begun just next door, also built by Mitchell, designed by E. Townsend Mix and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today the exterior of the Mitchell Building remains highly intact, and stands as an example of Second Empire style in Milwaukee.
(Wikipedia)
For buildings to have their own Wikipedia pages speaks volumes. I was genuinely impressed with the detailing and felt happy that, in Milwaukee's "progress" toward the modern age, those buildings had not been torn down.
July 2021
...a permanent trio of massive ladybugs that look like they could be headed the same direction as you. It’s hard to tell how massive they are, exactly: They’re perched way up on the side of the Milwaukee Building on North Water Street. At least, it’s a hard calculation looking up at them from the sidewalk or from a car whizzing by. The late John J. Burke decorated the building that houses the company he started, Burke Properties, with Ladybugs. The fiberglass bugs are each about 6 feet long and 3 feet deep. The fiberglass bugs are each about 6 feet long and 3 feet deep and have been hanging there since July 1999. They were thought up by John J. Burke to decorate the building that houses the company he started, Burke Properties, according to his obituary. Not much has been written about them, which is a testament to how many interesting things Milwaukee offers — we take even giant beetles for granted.
Like the Blob Monster, I loved the city's sense of whimsy. The deliberate attempt to break up the facade of an otherwise dull, modern building was well-received by the public (and me, too).
The chunk of downtown Milwaukee between the river and the lake holds an enormous variety of architectural styles from the modern museum on the lakeshore to the 19th century City Hall. This was yet another reason for me to like the city - its wealth had been used to create beautiful buildings that withstood the test of time.
And, there remained much for me to explore.
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