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Writer's pictureMatthew P G

Diamond Jubilee: Matt in the Middle (Part II)

St Louis


One of the finest libraries in the USA. It is a Carnegie-funded library completed in 1912.

I just stumbled upon it. It is not hyped at all. I think it is just as good as the New York Public Library. Amazing. — at St. Louis Public Library.

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library

St Louis Public Library. July 8, 2021


This started as a memorial for World War I, but then came to encompass all wars after that time. It occupies a prominent place on the central axis (mall) of St Louis that runs from the train station to the Gateway Arch.


This was dedicated by President Roosevelt in 1936.


St Louis used to be a world class city more than any other city I visited on this trip besides Chicago. — at Soldiers Memorial Military Museum.

Soldiers Memorial Military Museum and 22nd Judicial Circuit Courthouse

Cenotaph with the names of every St Louis citizen who died in a war since WWl



Old Court House and the adjacent Citygarden Sculpture Park


The Old Court House was built and rebuilt between 1816 and 1864. It is part of the Gateway Monument park.


The Old Courthouse was both State and Federal. It is infamous for the Dred Scott vs Sanford decision which was referred to the Supreme Court. It is universally recognized as the worst decision ever made by the US Supreme Court (African-Americans were not US citizens hence not protected under the law)


In front of it on the central mall of St Louis is the Citygarden Sculpture Park. It is rather whimsical placed between the War Memorial and the Courthouse. — at Old Court House Saint Louis.

City Garden Sculpture Park

City Garden Sculpture Park

See through

City Garden Sculpture Park

City Garden Sculpture Park

City Garden Sculpture Park. July 8, 2021


Another incredible train station that has now been repurposed (thank God).

In 1894 when it opened it was the largest train station in the WORLD. St Louis - world class city. The train station is now a hotel, aquarium, event venue.


In front of the station at the end of the St Louis central mall, is the Milles Fountain (1940). It was SCANDALOUS due to all the nudity. — at St. Louis Union Station.

St Louis Union Station

Milles Fountain - 1940

Milles Fountain

Milles Fountain

Milles Fountain

St Louis Union Station

Great Hall, St Louis Union Station

St Louis Union Station

Toilets!! Wow - St Louis Union Station

St Louis Union Station

St Louis Union Station. July 9, 2021


This monument was planned back in 1935! A big chunk of old St Louis was razed in order to complete it.


The monument is the "Gateway to the West" celebrating the starting point for Lewis & Clark's expedition as well as the first big city on the west bank of the Mississippi. It later came to include the Old Courthouse as well.


The monument was also to honor Thomas Jefferson (because in 1935 there was no Jefferson Memorial in DC) but that became less of a focal point as time dragged on and he was honored elsewhere.


The Arch was completed in 1965. I didn't go up inside because of the pandemic. I have to say, my expectations were quite low and it was never on my list of "wannasee" places. It was, however, quite impressive!


5/5 I really would recommend people to visit! — at Gateway Arch National Park.

From the train window coming into town


Wandering from downtown down to Soulard Market.

It was very rough in parts - St Louis is definitely a car-city.

My hotel - cavernous, empty

Poelker Park

22nd Judicial Circuit Court detail

Important in days gone by!

Courthouse detail

St Louis City Hall

Stifel Theater

22nd Judicial Circuit Court

Courthouse detail

Soulard Market

Soulard Market. July 9, 2021


Last few images of St Louis.

Walking to Soulard Market

Go Cardinals!

Biggest bar I have ever seen attached to a stadium

Cardinals Stadium

St Louis Federal Reserve Bank

St Louis Federal Reserve Bank

Eads Bridge and Old Man River (better captured the mood)

Laclede's Landing - the last remaining bit of "Old St Louis"

Laclede's Landing

Laclede's Landing

One line metrolink

Repurposed - a restaurant

Street art

St Louis Old Post Office

St Louis Old Post Office, repurposed public space!

St Louis Old Post Office

Courthouse detail. July 9, 2021


My assessment? For tourism with a car, 5/5. Lots to see.


On foot, the city is big and empty (and at times creepy). I am happy I visited but I felt strange most of my visit.


Cautionary note:

In my life travels I saw abandoned cities around the world as well as cities that had peaked and were in a state of benign decay. St Louis WAS one of the greatest cities in the USA. It has lost more population than any other US city. It once hosted the Olympics and the World's Fair. There is a Federal Reserve Bank there. The old city center, now almost abandoned, tells the tale of greatness lost.


I met a guy on the train leaving St Louis and he told me that most people now live in the suburbs and only commute to the city center for work or specific purposes by car and leave again. This might explain why you can pick up a luxury condo downtown for less than $100K


This is not the future. This is now.


Crossing Illinois


All photos from the train. On the way to Chicago from St Louis.


My original plan was to continue across Missouri to Kansas City, but COVID cases were starting to explode in Missouri so I decided to head north. — in Illinois.






Nice stadium for a small town! July 10, 2021



Chicago in the Rain (stopover)


I had to overnight in Chicago to catch the next train. It was a cloudy, cool, rainy day.

Union Station Chicago was built in 1925 and is the 4th busiest station in the USA. It is amazing to arrive and depart from there.


Chicago was teeming with people after seeing all those empty downtown areas. It was so strange to see so many people outside!

Chicago Union Station

Chicago Union Station

Chicago Union Station

Chicago Union Station

Chicago Union Station

Greektown (my hotel was here)

South Branch of the Chicago River

300 S. Wacker Drive

Bridge control tower

Willis Tower (which for me is the Sears Tower)

Under the Willis Tower

Willis Tower

Iconic Chicago

Under the El

Federal Reserve Bank

Time zones!!!

Chicago Board of Trade. July 10, 2021


Chicago Public Library - 1991. I love the spirit of continued architectural innovation.

Walking around downtown dodging rain showers.


Chicago Institute of Art. Ticketed, timed entry. Not possible for a blow-through visit. I was sad as it has one of my favorite collections in the USA.

Chicago Public Library

Chicago Public Library

Chicago Public Library

Chicago Public Library

à la Paris

Trains built Chicago

Michigan Avenue

Grant Park

Chicago Institute of Art

Chicago Institute of Art

Chicago Institute of Art. July 10, 2021


Cloudy and rainy wandering as I killed time for my afternoon train to Milwaukee.


Even in the cool rain, I regretted not spending more time in Chicago in years past. I realized I had to come back and spend more time.

Buckingham Fountain

Buckingham Fountain

Buckingham Fountain

Buckingham Fountain

Buckingham Fountain

Buckingham Fountain

Wow!

Building detail

Reflection on granite

Crown Fountain

The Bean!

The Bean

The Bean!

Michigan Avenue

The Spearman, Congress Plaza

Daphne, Congress Plaza

Pho (Vietnamese noodles). I haven't had them in years. July 11, 2021


Milwaukee


Milwaukee!


I had no advance plan to go and stayed longer than expected.


The Riverwalk was one of my favorite parts of the city. I would say it is Dubai Marina meets Amsterdam from 100 years ago. — at Milwaukee River.

River Walk

River Walk

Milwaukee River

River walk

River walk

River walk

Ayyyyyy.....the Fonz

River walk

Milwaukee River

River Walk @ Public Market

Trestle Park view

Milwaukee River

River walk. July 11, 2021


Founded in 1888, the modern building by Calatrava is from 2001. The position on Lake Michigan is stunning.


Couldn't visit the collection easily, so it was just looking at it from the outside.


One of the most stunning buildings of the trip.


5/5 !! — at Milwaukee Art Museum.

Skyline from the museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Milwaukee Art Museum

Cudahy Gardens

Milwaukee Art Museum

Reiman Pedestrian Bridge. July 11, 2021



Walking from the River Walk down to the lake and back. A lot of really stunning old buildings.

It was so nice to be back in a bar.... Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery

Yummy! Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery

Old City Hall

Old City Hall

Old City Hall

Pabst is everywhere! Pabst Theatre


North Jefferson @ East Wells Street

Cathedral of St John the Evangelist

East Wells Street

The Calling, East Wisconsin Avenue

East Wisconsin Avenue

East Wisconsin Avenue

North Jackson @ East Wisconsin Avenue

It was hot. LOL East Wisconsin Avenue

I saw this building in many of the cities I visited! I guess some styles were very popular. Milwaukee Federal Building & U.S. Courthouse

Milwaukee Federal Building & U.S. Courthouse

The Milwaukee Club. July 11, 2021


Walking from my hotel to the Library, US Courthouse and the old Pabst Brewery. The brewery area is a new "up and coming" place to live

Building detail, West Wisconsin Avenue

West Wisconsin Avenue

It's Miller time!! Miller Time Pub and Grill, West Wisconsin Avenue

Milwaukee Library

Spanish War Memorial, West Wisconsin @ North Tenth Street

Aux armes!! Victorious Charge, West Wisconsin @ North 10th Street

Fancy clubhouse. The Wisconsin Club.

Milwaukee County Courthouse

Milwaukee County Courthouse

Milwaukee County Safety Building

Old Pabst Brewery

Old Pabst Brewery

Herr Pabst in a beer garden. Best Place at the Historic Pabst Brewery

Historic Pabst Brewery

Historic Pabst Brewery. July 12, 2021


The stadium area and German Third Street then down to the Public Market and the Historic 3rd Ward (another trendy area that has been redeveloped).


Milwaukee was hugely German influenced in its early days as was most of the ex-NW Territory.


The Public Market is new and under a highway that cuts across Milwaukee. High marks for taking divisive dead space and turning it into something popular and useful!!. 5/5

Fiserv Forum


Turner Hall Ballroom

German Third Street

Superlative!! North Third Street (Dr. MLK, Jr Street)

Milwaukee Historical Society

Pere Marquette Park

Mitchell Building, East Michigan Street

Building detail, Mackie Building, East Michigan Street

Mitchell Building, East Michigan Street

North Water Street

Loved this place!!!

Public Market

Public Market

Public Market

Public Market

Historic Third Ward

Historic Third Ward

Historic Third Ward. July 12, 2021


Along the Menomonee River and the Harley Davidson Factory.

Lake Michigan and parks.

Menomonee River

Harley Davidson

Harley Davidson

East Clyborne Street

Hank Aaron State Trail

Lakeshore State Park

bluebird photo bombed, Lakeshore State Park

Lakeshore State Park

Lakeshore State Park

Daniel W. Hoan Bridge and the Kinnickinnic River

Milwaukee Pierhead Lighthouse

Lakeshore State Park Inlet and downtown. July 13, 2021


I never intended to travel to Milwaukee on this trip. It just kind of happened. It was very much like Cleveland but a little less rough. It also did not suffer from "empty city" complex that I experienced in many other places. All in all, I liked it. Going to a place with no expectations is probably always best as you can't be disappointed.


I give it 4.5 from 5. Not full marks because it is rough around the edges. I do highly recommend visiting!



Crossing Wisconsin


Crossing Wisconsin. Views from the train window.

Wisconsin has always been one of my favorite states!




Wisconsin Dells



July 13, 2021




Upper Mississippi River, Minnesota


The upper Mississippi River from the train.


This is the second time I have visited this region (last time was in Iowa). It really is a beautiful, underappreciated part of the USA. 5/5









July 13, 2021



St Paul, MN


Arrival in St Paul and my luxe hotel. It is so unfortunate that I only had one day and I had to cram in as much as possible. It was the fastest city trip of my travel.


The train station is another cavernous station that is multipurposed yet with only 2 trains a day. At least they are maintaining it.


The rest of the photos are downtown. The park with all the Peanuts characters was great to stumble upon.

St Paul Union Depot

What an arrival!

St Paul Union Depot

St Paul Union Depot

St Paul Union Depot

Ex Customs House - (now condo and hotel)

Wow, one of the best rooms on the trip

Metro Blue Line

Mears Park

Mears Park

The Saint Paul Hotel

Landmark Plaza was filled with Peanuts sculptures!! (a favorite find in St Paul)

Rice Park

Landmark Plaza and Rice Park

Rice Park

Rice Park

St Paul Public Library

Rice Park


The Landmark Center (old Post Office) is a focal point of the old downtown. The sheer size of it was amazing. I was happy it was lovingly preserved.


Up on the hill down from the capitol is Summit Avenue where all the rich founders of St Paul built homes. Mansion after mansion. It was a Beverly Hills before there was Beverly Hills.

Landmark Center - the old post office built in 1902. Now it is the focal point of old downtown.

Landmark Plaza

Landmark Plaza

Landmark Plaza

Landmark Plaza

Landmark Plaza

St Peter Street

East Exchange Street

James J. Hill House, Summit Avenue

Summit Avenue - stately, old homes

Summit Avenue - stately, old homes

It was a rare house that became public so I could see the backyard and the view.

Summit Avenue - stately, old homes



Completed in 1905.


It has a wonderful situation overlooking the city and river in a huge park.


It was my 5th and final state capitol of the trip.


Minnesota Workers Memorial


Capitol Steps

Capitol Steps

Capitol Entrance






Cathedral of St Paul


Finished in 1915. It is one of the largest churches in the USA and the only church dedicated to St Paul in North America.


The architect worked on the St Louis World's Fair.


It is one of the most impressive religious structures in the USA akin to St Patrick's in NYC or National Cathedral in Washington, DC.


It is right down the street from the capitol and has a very good position overlooking the city.

5/5
















Irvine Park is a great old neighborhood of wooden houses near the river.


The riverfront is a series of walkways and parks these days. It has been nicely renovated. It was filled with walkers and joggers.


High Bridge gives great views over the city.


For a one day visit (I walked all these places), I think I saw the highlights of St Paul. Due to the difficulty of using my rail pass I had to be on the train back toward Chicago so there was no time for Minneapolis. People say St Paul is "better", but who knows?

Hope Breakfast Bar

Irvine Park - a really nice old neighborhood

Irvine Park

Irvine Park

Irvine Park

Irvine Park

Down on the Mississippi

Riverfront

Upper Landing Park

Robert Street Bridge and railway bridge

Robert Street Bridge and railway bridge

Smith Avenue before High Bridge

Smith Avenue Bridge (High Bridge) Great views over the city and river

High Bridge Overlook

High Bridge Overlook

High Bridge Overlook

Old German restaurant!

Beer, soft pretzel, mustards. This PA guy approved!! July 14, 2021


4/5 St Paul is a nice place but not easy to walk around and not very centralized. It used to be a very wealthy city.



Red Wing, MN


Red Wing was described as a great stopover on Amtrak's "Empire Builder". I agree!

Little train station and my swanky hotel!

Red Wing Station

Red Wing Station

Red Wing Station

St James Hotel

LaGrange Park

LaGrange Park

This was my room. Yes, I laughed a lot. St James Hotel

One of my best hotel room views of the trip! St James Hotel

St James Hotel

St James Hotel

St James Hotel. July 15, 2021


Classic American small town stuff!!


They even have a shoe factory (Red Wing shoes - buy American if you see them).

Great River Road



Mandy's Coffee and Cafe

Gementz Auto Service

Gementz Auto Service

Goodhue County Government Center

Goodhue County Government Center

Goodhue County Health and Human Services


Central Park Bandshell

Sheldon Theatre


Post Office


Great River Road

Red Wing Shoe Company

Red Wing Shoe Company


Liberty's Restaurant and Lounge

Great River Road

Red Wing Station - foggy morning

Foggy Morning, Bush Street. July 15, 2021


Down by the Lazy River.


Red Wing has a lot of riverside parks and marinas. The upper Mississippi is an amazing place.


To top it off, sometimes a huge barge floats by on its way to the OCEAN a long way off! wow

Levee Park

riverside path

Barge on the Mississippi

Red Wing Grain

Barn Hill in the distance

Bay Point Park

Red Wing Bay


Red Wing Eisenhower Bridge

Red Wing Eisenhower Bridge view

Colvill Park

Colvill Park

Colvill Park

Foggy Morning, Levee Park. July 15, 2021


Two views over Red Wing - Barn Bluff and Memorial Park.


Overall, Red Wing was one of the best small towns I visited on the whole trip. Nice small downtown, riverside, and some great viewpoints.

Barn Hill

Barn Hill

Barn Hill

Tired and hot

Waiting for Julie Andrews

Barn Hill (opposite side)

Barn Hill (opposite side)

Path up to Memorial Park

View of Barn Hill from Memorial Park

Red Wing from Memorial Park. July 16, 2021


If you are in Minneapolis-St Paul, it is really worth the trip. 5/5



Pierce County Islands, WI


Across from Red Wing was this huge wetland preserve! It is off limits to boats but I bet it's a great place for bird watching.—at Pierce County Islands State Public Hunting Grounds.





Under the Red Wing Eisenhower Bridge. July 16, 2021



Chicago (a break inside the trip)


July 18-22 I took a break from travel and had some big city pleasure in sunny, summer Chicago (see: Chicago)

Chicago River July 19, 2021


Ohio River Valley, PA


The train follows the Ohio River closely in its short stretch in PA.


All these photos are from the train.


I never really thought of the Ohio River being in Pennsylvania at all





Eating on Amtrak during the pandemic means basically - no food. July 22, 2021



Walking across Washington, DC


On the day before my 60th birthday I walked across Washington, DC - I saw old and new things. I waxed nostalgic.


Maybe it was good to revisit the place I started my adult journey.

Gallery Place Metro

Chinatown

National Portrait Gallery

Portrait Gallery Atrium

Woody's

White House

Old Executive Office Building

Renwick Gallery

Washington Circle

C&O Canal, Georgetown

C&O Canal, Georgetown

Washington Harbor

Georgetown Waterfront Park

Dixie Liquor

Exorcist Stairs

Wisemillers

Good memories

White Gravenor

Georgetown

Georgetown

Dupont Circle

Logan Circle

Logan Circle

1300 Massachusetts Avenue (used to live here)

Franklin School (now Museum of Language) July 23, 2021


The Big Day!


The big 6-0.


Morning was with one of my oldest friends in Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens which is one of those DC attractions that mostly locals go to. July is when the lotuses bloom!


The afternoon was a walk to the Franciscan Monastery which I visited on a 6th grade trip! I took a walk in a garden that imitated sites in the Holy Lands which by now I have visited in person. In the 6th grade I doubt I ever would have dreamed that big!


The evening was well spent at a favorite restaurant with my dear friends whose home has always been my place of refuge when life places a storm in my path.


I feel gratitude. I feel trepidation. At last, I am old.

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Franciscan Monastery

Franciscan Monastery

Franciscan Monastery

Franciscan Monastery

Birthday dinner venue

Happy Birthday!!! July 24, 2021


Matt's Review of his Diamond Jubilee Trip:

Best cities: Columbus, Indianapolis, and Chicago. Mostly this is just based on their being "alive" with a people vibe. Springfield, IL for being frozen in time but still functioning.

Best small towns: Marietta, OH and Red Wing, MN.

Best parks: Hocking Hills State Park, OH; Clifty Falls State Park, IN; and Mt Echo Park, Cincinnati

Best Architecture: Indianapolis, St Louis, Milwaukee, Chicago

Best Train Stations: Chicago, St Paul, Cincinnati, St Louis

Best restaurants: Fisher's Cafe and Pub, Cuyahoga National Park, OH ; Waldmann Brewery, St Paul, MN; and Incline Pub, Cincinnati, OH.

Best tourist attraction: Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY.

Best Places I wasn't eager to see: Indy Speedway Museum, Indianapolis; Gateway Arch, St Louis

Best hotels: Lafayette Hotel, Marietta, OH; Carpenter Street Hotel, Springfield, IL (pure helpfulness and friendliness); St James Hotel, Red Wing, MN

Best buildings: Heinen's, Cleveland; St Louis Public Library; Old Chicago Public Library; St Paul's Cathedral, St Paul, MN

Worst experience: As I age so I see what around me ages. I saw too many cities that were ghosts of what they had been.

Like many of my journeys, I just travelled to points on maps or names I heard of. This turned out to be one of my best trips in the USA. I learned a lot and I saw many beautiful things in unexpected places.

COVID dictated much of the trip in negative ways, but there were some silver linings - riding one of the tour boats on the Chicago River on a sunny day and being the only passenger. I felt like I was in a movie!! and, of course, COVID made for a bonanza of "no people" photos!! — feeling grateful.






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