Diamond Jubilee: wandering in Springfield, Illinois
- Matthew P G
- 8 hours ago
- 4 min read
Springfield took me completely by surprise. What a lovely place: it is a state capital yet retains a small city charm. The city is not as podunk as Frankfort, Kentucky (which I loved, but is extremely small), yet feels frozen in time from a gentler age. There were several things I liked about Springfield:
railway tracks
The north-south train tracks run through town at grade. They are still in use by both freight trains and Amtrak. That means that when a train passes through town (frequently), the entire city is cut off momentarily east and west. I found it amazing that no attempt was made to replace it. The tracks literally cut right across the downtown city grid. Apparently change is in the offing and a "new" station is being created that will be less traffic-intrusive.
History Route 66
Part of the original alignment of America's most famous highway, Springfield has several historic locations associated with the highway. I walked by Shea's Gas Station (at the time closed) which retains an air of a filling station from years gone by including a few classic cars parked in front.
Downtown
The city retains many of its late 19th century buildings (which allow it to remain low rise). An Illinois snack-favorite, Del's Popcorn (1980 in Springfield, 1945 in Decatur), set up next to the Lincoln Law Offices. The interior (with signature copper kettles) adds to downtown's yesteryear appeal.
Union Station
Springfield actually holds three old train stations. The main one, Union, is no longer used but has been restored as a historic monument. It cuts an impressive figure in the park fronting it. Another depot nearby is the actual Amtrak station. That station is also old and historic (and much smaller). The current passenger station was originally intended to serve the dedicated train line from Chicago to the statehouse.
Springfield Union Station is a former train station in Springfield, Illinois, which is currently part of the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum. The Richardson Romanesque-style station is located at 500 East Madison Street in downtown Springfield, adjacent to the Lincoln Presidential Library. Springfield Union Station opened in 1898 and served trains until 1971, when Amtrak consolidated its services at the former Chicago & Alton depot three blocks west. After the end of train service, Union Station was used by Illinois state government offices and multiple private businesses. The building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978, and reopened to the public as part of the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum complex in 2007.
(Wikipedia)
The Old Illinois Statehouse
The old capitol building was under renovation on my visit. Set in a park, it is now a museum. I felt disappointed to miss it. The similar one in Kentucky is beautiful.
The Old State Capitol State Historic Site is a former capitol building for the U.S. state of Illinois. Located in Springfield, it is one of two preserved former Illinois capitol buildings (the other being in Vandalia). It was built in the Greek Revival style in 1837–1840, when Springfield became the capital city, and served as the state house from 1840 to 1876, when it was replaced by the current capitol. It is the site of candidacy announcements by Abraham Lincoln in 1858 and Barack Obama in 2007.
(Wikipedia)
Governor's Mansion
On a large estate in the middle of town is the unmissable (and difficult-to-visit), Governor's Mansion, the third oldest in the US. The amount of land accorded the estate is incredible given its central location.
The Executive Mansion in Springfield, Illinois, has served as an official residence of the Governor of Illinois since 1839, when the capital was moved for the second and final time and the General Assembly designated a state-owned residence for the Governor. In 1853, fourteen years after the capital was moved from Vandalia to Springfield, newly-elected Governor Joel A. Matteson asked the legislature to build an executive residence large enough to host state events. The General Assembly granted the governor’s request with an appropriation of $18,000, the distinguished Chicago architect, John Mills Van Osdel, was hired. Van Osdel, who had also designed the home of Chicago’s first mayor and the city’s Court House building, constructed the mansion in the then-popular Italianate style while incorporating Greek Revival features typical of 19th-century public architecture.
Frank Lloyd Wright House
Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1902 for Susan Lawrence Dana, a forward-thinking socialite living in Springfield, Illinois. The home, the 72nd building designed by Wright, contains the largest collection of site-specific, original Wright art glass and furniture. Wright’s first “blank check” commission, the home has 35 rooms in the 12,000 square feet of living space which includes 3 main levels and 16 varying levels in all.
As with all Frank Lloyd Wright homes, the Dana-Thomas house is strictly entry by ticket (exorbitant) bought far in advance. I had already encountered the same at other FLW homes in Illinois and Wisconsin with Brian, so I wasn't surprised. I had to feel satisfied to walk around the exterior.
Illinois State Museum
Perhaps to make up for not entering the Frank Lloyd Wright house, I stumbled upon the state museum (free entry) with its fantastic collection of ancient North American mammal fossils representing what once roamed the surrounding plains. I was duly impressed. The museum is not large, but it is very well-done and extremely informative.
First drive through restaurant
I walked by the place and considered walking inside for something, but then decided that would defeat the purpose. Several places lay claim to this title, so suffice to say that Maid Rite is "one of the first" drive throughs. In fact, it is more of a "drive up" than a "drive through". [see: first drive through, Springfield, Illinois]
Lincoln Lincoln everywhere
After Kentucky and Indiana, who also lay some claim to Lincoln, it appears Illinois (and especially Springfield) wants to be sure that visitors understand that it is the epicenter of "Lincoln-mania". By the end of the visit I had had enough of President Lincoln. He is EVERYWHERE.
July 2021
I was sad to leave Springfield. I liked the hotel and I liked the town. Dining options were limited, but it was during COVID so that had an impact I am sure. Nonetheless, it was one of my favorite cities on the trip. I never thought a place "in the middle" that is totally flat would so capture my attention - but it did.
I reserved a seat on the train south. I was headed to St Louis.
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