Synagogue, Jewtown, Kochi. February 2010
... it was believed that the earliest Jews in India were sailors from King Solomon's time. It has been claimed that following the destruction of the First Temple in the Siege of Jerusalem of 587 BCE, some Jewish exiles came to India. Only after the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE are records found that attest to numerous Jewish settlers arriving at Cranganore, an ancient port near Cochin. Cranganore, now transliterated as Kodungallur, but also known under other names, is a city of legendary importance to this community. Fernandes writes, it is "a substitute Jerusalem in India".
(Wikipedia)
I never really associated Judaism with India (nor early Christianity either, even if St Thomas was martyred in Madras). It came as a surprise then that in the old part of Cochin, one of the neighborhoods was called "Jewtown". It held the last operating synagogue in the city. The interior of that unique place of worship was not that interesting, but the street that led to it was a fascinating glimpse back in time to when Cochin was a great trading port.
The original "Malabar Jews" were later joined by some of the Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain. Even later some Baghdadi Jews expelled from Iraq moved to Jewtown, Cochin, too. They all kept their own communities and traditions as they had in Singapore [see: Jewish Quarter]. Cochin was a thriving international port for trade with India for centuries. The old "fort" area was one of the most fascinating historical places we ever visited in India. It just came as a surprise that Jews had a presence in India and not only that, they actually had a long and influential history in Cochin.
After Indian independence and the creation of Israel, most the Cochin Jews emigrated either to Israel or the UK/Australia. Only a handful stayed behind and when we visited the synagogue we were told the community was very tiny, very aged, and soon to die out. It reminded me of the many mellah I saw in Morocco - the old Jewish quarters now abandoned but with centuries of vibrant history steeped in the buildings.
What struck me the most about Jewtown, besides its historical importance, was its name. "Jewtown" sounded derogatory for some reason. I assumed it was an older name that stuck and didn't have any negative connotation. The Jews were not ghettoized there - they chose form their own community. I wondered how they felt about the name of their neighborhood? "Jewtown" - it sounds like it should be in classic soul song from the US.
Cochin ended up being my favorite city in Kerala and one of my favorites in India, period. It has amazing history, some well-preserved traces of its past, and incredible food. When we visited, the fort area looked on the verge of going through a major tourist development. One hopes it is done respectfully and with forethought lest unique neighborhoods like Jewtown be lost to modernization and development.
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