Kebab Shalin, Duhok, Iraq. December 2018
Mrishk or gohsht?
The first kebab I ate in Duhok was at Shalin Kebab. I discovered it walking to the liquor store with Paul Philippe in my early days in Duhok. I think he joined me and few other colleagues once for lunch there, but since they did not serve alcohol (??!!), he was not a fan. I have to admit that the kebab places I frequented in Duhok were all quite tasty and extremely good value. For just a few dollars, a person could have deliciously grilled meat with an array of side dishes, soup, water, yogurt drink, and tea. The food was also lightening fast because there was only one choice, mrishk (chicken) or gosht (beef). The guys on grill just fired up kebabs nonstop when the place was busy. THIS was true "fast food" and it was delicious.
The side dishes were a mix of traditional Arab food or Turkish food PLUS some very strange fusion dishes with pasta that defy description. Nothing tasted bad (ever!), but some of the things in the dishes gave me pause because of the combinations. Beets and pomegranate?? (I loved it) I think the people in charge of these side dishes just tried to keep it interesting by providing an endless array of combinations of the ingredients on hand. However, there were always olives, tahina, bread (fresh!!), and some fresh veggies like cucumber, tomato and parsley. I never got tired of eating kebab because the side dishes were ever-changing. Oh, and did I mention if you cleared a side-dish, it would refilled FOR FREE!! (took some time for me to learn not clean my plate lest I fill up on side dishes rather than kebab!).
People often ask me about language difficulties when I travel. The kebab restaurants were a prime example of how far just a few words could take you. I knew "chicken", "meat", and "stick" in Kurdish and Arabic, although Kurdish got me huge smiles from the waiters. As I have often said - if one enters a restaurant, the purpose is clear "I want to eat". The restauranteur "wants me to eat". Not much mystery there. In a straightforward place like a kebab joint, identify the meat, how much of it, and boom, done! The waiters were not lingering around the table asking if everything was ok (they knew it was) and were attentive if you wanted another bottle of water or more bread (no words needed). I discovered while travelling that actually most places in the world were incredibly easy to negotiate food-wise. Of course, I do exclude Americans with extreme dietary needs (both real and fictional). I can't imagine traveling with someone who needs sustainably-sourced quinoa with every meal... (eye roll). Perhaps I am just blessed to be an un-allergic omnivore?