Italy: Porta Nuova, Verona

April 2017

Porta Nuova is a gateway to the historic center of Verona, built between 1532 and 1540. It was designed by architect Michele Sanmicheli. Giorgio Vasari remarked on the gateway in his work Le vite de' più eccellenti pittori, scultori e architettori, stating that "never before [had there been] any other work of more grandeur or better design."

(Wikipedia)

Verona was founded on a sharp bend in the Adige River on relatively flat land (while the opposite bank rose sharply. Since Roman times to defend the city, walls were built across the peninsula on which the it lies. Inside the city parts of the original Roman walls and gates are visible, but the city outgrew that space and the walls were constantly being pushed southward. In the 16th century some old walls were renovated and a new grand entry was created with a boulevard that would give access directly to the old city center. At the time of its building, the gate was one of the most beautiful in Veneto.

Today the gate sits as an island with traffic flowing around it. It still impresses (just as Verona's remaining walls do). The main train station for Verona also bears the same name as it is nearby. In fact, even when passing through Verona it is clearly visible from the train. As one of my many surprises visiting that city, I discovered that parts of its walls still existed (some as linear parks). They weren't fully intact because with all the change the city had endured - it wasn't possible. That parts remain at all is fortunate.

Most cities in Europe were walled in the past - some of them retained them in toto and others demolished portions or just retained selected gates. Verona did better than most and has portions of all its various walls preserved so visitors can get a sense of them. They were my first "surprise " discovery when I walked into the old city. Porto Nuovo although stranded with traffic circling around it is still a beautiful reminder of the city's past.