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  • Writer's pictureMatthew P G

Jordan: Roman Amphitheatre, Amman




July 2017.


still rockin' in old Philly


Roman Theatre of Amman is a 6,000-seat, 2nd-century Roman theatre. A famous landmark in the Jordanian capital, it dates back to the Roman period when the city was known as Philadelphia. The theatre and the nearby Odeon are flanking the new Hashemite Plaza from the south and the east respectively, while the Roman Nymphaeum is just a short stroll away in north-westerly direction. The amphitheatre is located in the eastern part of the Jordanian capital. It is specifically at the foot of Jabal Al-Joufah, on a hill opposite the Amman Citadel. A Greek inscription on one of the pillars indicates that this amphitheater was built in honour of Emperor Antoninus Pius (138–161 CE). The large and steeply raked structure could seat about 6,000 people: built into the hillside, it was oriented north to keep the sun off the spectators.

(Wikipedia)


The Roman Amphitheatre of Amman might be the best preserved I visited in all my travels. It is literally pristine and ready for use. The view down on it from the ancient hilltop of the citadel gives the best views of the theatre, but also the views FROM the top rows of seating of the theatre over Amman are equally amazing. Ancient Philadelphia knew how to entertain - the acoustics of the structure are excellent. Even without a speaker system, those on the top rows can still hear what is going on down on the "stage".


Along with the well-preserved theatres of Jerash, Jordan likely holds the best remaining public theatre spaces in the Roman World outside of Italy. What amazes me is how little Jordan is known to the outside world in spite of its being so historically important - holding ancient sites important to both history and religion. Amman is maddeningly difficult to get around without a car (and taxis are very expensive), yet it was one of my favorite cities in the Middle East. The amphitheatre is still in use for various events including concerts and operas, yet "I played Amman" does not seem to be high on any artist's list.


Compared to "restored" theatres in Turkey and Spain that I have visited, there is simply no comparison to the Amphitheatre of Amman. My dream mashup would be the Vienna Philharmonic playing there on a lovely summer evening while quaffing a local beer. I hope I have enough years left to see it happen.

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