Old City Wall, Meknes, Morocco. December 2019
Meknes is the forgotten sister city of Fes even though it is older and equally as grand. I specifically chose to stay Meknes because nearby Fes appeared too overwhelming. Most tourist information on Fes had equal amounts "information" and "warnings" for tourists. I wanted to relax and enjoy my few days stay. Fes was a tourist hot-spot and Meknes was not - so I chose Meknes. I found a reasonable Riyad (traditional hotel) just inside the old city walls, a short walk from the modern city center. My time there was truly well spent and provided a view of old Morocco minus all the tourist trappings.
Meknes was founded long ago, 11th century, but it didn't come to be the powerhouse royal city that we see vestiges of today until the 17th and 18th centuries. Meknes, in fact, had exactly the same interesting places that nearby Fes had, minus being fixed up for mass tourism. Meknes was original and I appreciated it (even if it proved frustrating at times).
The biggest impression left upon me by Meknes was the walls. They seemed to stretch on forever punctuated by huge gate after huge gate. Apparently the rulers over time kept extending the city perimeter. These old fortifications were mostly in good shape and often had green space in front of them with landscaped public parks that were well-enjoyed by the locals. The walls also proved frustrating during my visit because they cut off sections of the city that looked nearby on a map but in actuality required long detours to access unless an informal opening had been cut into them (which was never indicated).
The greatest king the city had known, Moulay Ismail, was entombed in Meknes and his mausoleum was a pilgrimage place of sorts. He represented the peak of Meknes history and power. During my entire stay, the tomb doors were closed and, although it was highly recommended to visit, I never figured out when it was open. I was mildly disappointed, but it was just a tomb after all. I did see others in Morocco, so I didn't feel I was missing out on anything unique.
There was an old Islamic school attached to the grand mosque of Meknes known as Madrasa Bou Inania (14th century) that was lovely to explore. Another school of the same name was located in Fes and was constantly mobbed with people. I saw basically the same thing in Meknes as the sole visitor (although the place was more run-down). The sword of tourism cuts both ways - all the attention, government support, and entrance fees supported old buildings in tourist locations. Not on the tourism radar? Well, don't expect things to be "fixed up".
The entire city was built on a ridge and while exploring the northwest, I came to one of the major city gates. Outside was a strikingly located cemetery with a fabulous view where I was pointedly told I could not enter because "muslims were buried there". I must admit, it was a first for me to shooed out of a cemetery for religious reasons. The people were dead, after all. I felt disappointed as I was sure there were some lovely photo ops waiting for me inside.
From Meknes I visited Fes, Volubis, and Moulay Idris. I genuinely liked the city and hoped that it could manage that knife edge walk of preserving without being "over loved".
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