July 2017
Alkmaar has many medieval buildings that are still intact, most notably the tall tower of the Grote or Sint-Laurenskerk, where many people from Alkmaar hold wedding ceremonies. The other main attraction, especially in the summer months, is Alkmaar's cheese market at the Waagplein, one of the country's most popular tourist attractions. The cheese market traditionally takes place from the first Friday in April through the first Friday in September. Every Friday morning the Waagplein is the backdrop for this traditional cheese market. After the old-fashioned way of the hand clap, traders and carriers will weigh the cheeses. It is one of only four traditional Dutch cheese markets still in existence. The traditional fare of this cheese market is those cheeses made in the local area, as opposed to the well-known brands of Dutch cheeses, including the Edam and Gouda cheeses. It is not actually possible to buy cheese at the market itself, which is really only a demonstration of how this merchants' market operated in times gone by. However, the demonstration, which takes place in front of the medieval weighing house, is surrounded by many specialized stalls where it is possible to buy all kinds of cheese (and non-cheese) related products. The Waag is also home to the local tourist office and a cheese museum. Alkmaar has 399 registered rijksmonuments, of which most are situated along the city's old canals
(Wikipedia)
I had one day left in the Netherlands and I wasn't sure where I wanted to go. The tip of North Holland called to me, but even in public-transport-friendly Netherlands, it was just a little too far for a day trip from Amersfoort. I settled on highly-recommended Alkmaar and its famous traditional cheese market. I had already been to Gouda, so I had experienced a "cheese town". Nevertheless, Alkmaar came very highly recommended. It was a short ride from Amersfoort to Amsterdam Centraal and onward with frequent trains.
The town did not disappoint, and for a place tacked onto my trip last minute, it turned out to be one of the best little towns I blundered upon. Its old market square (Cheese Central) was gorgeous complete with an obligatory large old church. The weather was lovely to boot - something not to be taken for granted in the ever-changing weather of that country. However, one thing was totally absent from the excursion, cheese! For a town with one of the oldest cheese markets in the Netherlands and being famous for its "Cheese Hall", it was amazingly "cheese free". Admittedly, I missed the big "market day", but I figured even on other days there would be some kind of cheese food available. Unfortunately, the cheeses available there were the same ones available all over the country. Gouda, by contrast, really was cheese heaven and it seemed the whole town sold its world-famous product. Alkmaar only had a cheese history - just not the food itself. The irony was not lost on me.
Cheese or not, I liked the town and I recommended it to friends shortly after. If anyone were in Amsterdam and wanted a 30 min ride to a perfect little Dutch town that was not too touristic, Alkmaar would get my vote. I sat down to a cheeseless lunch there and enjoyed a beer on the town square. The Netherlands was punishingly and needlessly expensive. I often ended up buying sandwiches in the supermarket and eating them in parks or in my room for most of the trip to save a little money. For Alkamaar though, I made an exception - it was just too beautiful not to be decadent and enjoy the moment. I sat down in the square and had beer and a non-cheese lunch. The next day I was heading back to the USA after about one month of travel. I needed a break from my vacation - cheese apparently could be had anywhere.
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