Old City Bazaar, Ahad Refidah, Asir, Saudi Arabia. November 2017
In search of the other Jerash in the land of the Qahtani
OQ, one of my students, told me that there was a "very very old place" near Ahad Refidah (just east of Abha) and he wanted to take me there. I joined OQ on a few adventures while I lived in Abha and he made a great traveling companion. His house was the only Saudi house I entered in Abha during my five years there. He showed up to my apartment in his ancient Mercedes land-yacht and we were off to explore. We did find the place, and I discovered its name was "Jerash", not to be confused with the AMAZING Greco-Roman site in Jordan (I must write about that) of the same name. Jerash, Saudi Arabia was just a few column bases and a foundation surrounded by a huge fence and a small museum that was closed - a total bust for that part of the journey. I noted before - travelling to a tourist site in Saudi Arabia and having it be closed or suddenly off-limits with no explanation was the norm during my time there.
Most pre-Islamic history in Saudi Arabia is ignored as it leads to too many uncomfortable questions. Control of history is the hallmark of any state and Saudi Arabia is not the first country to filter aspects of its past. After the visit to Jerash, I got online and found virtually no information about it (in English at least). It had clearly been a temple with columns. Some bits of information on the web speak of a larger city in the area that has yet to be excavated. Without a reliable water source nearby - the Wadi Bisha flowing through Ahad Refidah is seasonal - how could such an area have supported a large city with a substantial religious monument? I asked local friends who vaguely described some "really old stuff" around there. Saudi Arabia is FILLED with archeological sites that are completely ignored. What other historical remains are buried across the Arabian Peninsula that might change the world's view of Middle Eastern history?
Jerash being a bust, OQ took me to the old part of Ahad Refidah. The old market square with its towering mud-brick buildings still existed although in an advanced state of decay. It saddens me that the Saudis seem so uninterested in these centuries old (I think?) buildings. My contacts back in the kingdom tell me that under the leadership of crown prince, Mohammed bin Salman, many old buildings are being renovated into coffee shops and restaurants. The Asir region in particular has unique and beautiful architecture that is being lost at an alarming rate. I hope this trend of preservation (even if just for coffee shops) continues and instills some sense of cultural pride in young Saudis.
Ahad Refidah is Qahtani-land. To live in Asir is to know there are two major tribes - the mountain Asiris who historically tended to be farmers and the the desert dwelling Qahtanis who were pastoralists. They mistrust each other under their hugs and kisses of Saudi solidarity. Talk with an Asiri and you will get an earful about the untrustworthy Qahtanis who never truly befriend anyone outside of their tribe/family group. Talk with a Qahtani and hear about the money-crazed Asiris who would cheat their own mothers to make some extra cash. The truth is that they formerly lived in a symbiotic relationship - the Qahtani would come seasonally to work for the Asiri on their farms all the while providing the Asiri livestock in exchange for grains, fruits, and vegetables.
My personal experience in the region is that Qahtanis are far more insular and traditional. They are fierce and serious people. Their men can be devastatingly handsome (note: I never met a Saudi woman, so I cannot comment on their appearance). If I were to pick an archetypal Saudi, I would choose a Qahtani. OQ was Qahtani (although an urban child of Abha) and I felt more at ease traveling in the realm of the Qahtani with him. Asiris on the other hand were closer to the coast, mixed more with foreigners historically, and generally were more urban in their outlook. I never thought much about who was with me in my many visits to Asiri villages on the escarpment near Abha because the they are more open people. In Qahtani-land, you really need a guide and cultural interpreter. All that being said, Qahtanis also make for fierce friends. Once you befriend a Qahtani, he will be quite loyal.
The "Ahad" of Ahad Refidah refers to Sunday. Cities in the region all had different market days and place names reflect it. "Khamis Mushait" next to Ahad Refidah references Thursday. These old bazaars are almost all gone, unfortunately. Abha still has its locally famous "Tuesday Bazaar" and Khamis Mushait's market day on the old square is now on Fridays, but these are the two largest cities in Asir. Most people now prefer to drive to a hypermarket, especially in extreme weather. Saudi Arabia's history is being blown, bulldozed, and modernized away even as the House of Saud tries desperately to connect all the competing tribes. How to create a unifying history in a land with too much history? What places are restored and included? Which are ignored? I do not envy that task.
Is historic preservation always just one step too late? {See: Penn Station}