Open Museum, Al Hamra Corniche, Jeddah. November 2017
Isle of Misfit Art
At one end of the Al Hamra Corniche lies an oval green space simply called "The Open Park". Largely unknown, to my knowledge it is rarely visited. Many of my Saudi friends in Abha who were frequent weekenders in Jeddah had never heard of it. In fact, they were certain I was "mistaken" somehow (as if a place I visited and took photos of did not really exist). On one of my long walks, I followed the seaside path to its northern end and discovered this park. Surrounded by a hedge as if to hide most of the contents, what had I stumbled upon?
Consider first that Saudi Arabia does not really have "art museums". Museums exist most certainly, but they are historical like Masmak Fort in Riyadh and the Hejaz Railway Museum in Tabuk {see: Tabuk} or they are cultural like the great stone housing collective of Rijal Alma below Abha and the fortress town of Thy Ain in Al Bahah. Art galleries are not unknown in Saudi Arabia, of course, but a museum dedicated to visual arts alone? No. Yet, the "Open Park" placed at the extreme end of the Jeddah Corniche is chock full of modernist sculpture with famous artists such as Calder and Miro in a small, yet amazing collection.
Saudi Arabia (namely its monarch) is the custodian of the two Holy Mosques in Mecca and Medina. The Saudis are very serious about religion, which historically has cut both ways for them - Saudi culture has been incredibly preserved, but this has also led to myopic extremism. Islam forbids depicting the likeness of any animal or person, period. Beautiful calligraphy and intricate geometric patterns decorate many buildings. This "art" can be incredible, however due to the prohibition of creating the likeness of any living thing, art museums are just not a "thing". So then what of these sculptures?
In the case of the Isle of Misfit Art**, no winged lion king hopes the director of MOMA or the Guggenheim will fly in on a magic carpet to rescue these, the forgotten and unloved sculptures. No one I spoke with really knew anything about the place, so I posit that PERHAPS the Saudi government over time has been gifted culturally-sensitive sculptures (that portray no living thing) and needed a place to display them in a dignified setting. Like a Christmas gift that is re-gifted repeatedly because no one wants it, could it be that this lovely little park is actually the repository of gifts from foreign countries/companies to a Saudi Arabia that is too embarrassed to explain there are no art museums? Research into the park indicates that these artworks were collected from locations around Jeddah and then purposely placed there. Why? If they previously stood individually in front of major buildings or in other parks, wouldn't that somehow be better?
On a trip to Jeddah, do stroll along the "old" corniche and keep walking. The open park is located just bey9nd the last mosque. I guarantee, you will be the only visitor.
**Reference: Rudolph the Rednosed Reindeer, NBC, 196