Weaver bird nests in Abha. September 2013
In 2017 we were "forced" to stay in the Kingdom for about three weeks of Ramadan simply because the university administration did not want to issue our exit permits [see: King Khalid University]. What follows are my collected FB posts of being stuck in Abha with no work and nothing to do - just waiting to leave for summer vacation. Like the above weaver birds, I nested - whether I wanted to or not.
[from collected FB posts: May 2017]
Day One
I woke to a delicious quiet. Saudi Arabia is rarely quiet, actually. I took a nice, long walk before it got hot on the "mamsha" near my house. Saudis are quite big on these linear parks especially made for "strolling". One of the biggest in my city is a short walk from my place... it is new. The only issue is a lack of shade trees as it is newly built.
Then I backed up my photos to a flash drive (exciting, no; necessary, yes). That really takes a long time if you have a lot of photos.
Then... the big NOTHING. Everything is closed, and there is virtually nothing to do. I dusted off my Kindle and picked a book. The Black Star Passes by John W. Campbell. It is science fiction from the 50s. In some ways very naive, but these are the writers who really pioneered the genre. It was a fun read.
Around 5:30 I nipped down to my favorite kebab place and got some take away. I had breakfast and some snacks throughout the day, but I needed something substantial.
Finally, I went to the coffee shop which was empty except for me and caught up with friends on WhatsApp and watched the endless throngs circle the Kaaba in Mecca on TV (the only appropriate channel for this holy month).
Only 19 more days.
(I am getting paid during this "forced waiting period")
Day Two
Well I went to work a little early today. I started out on foot but was picked up halfway by a Jordanian colleague. We both complained about being "stuck" here. I was thinking that those fasting would probably want to get in and out quickly. WRONG. I arrived at 8am and my first colleagues rolled in around 9am and the Saudis sauntered in after 10 and announced the workday would be 10-3.
There was NOTHING to do. I repeat nothing.
I came home with a colleague at 1pm and delved into another book having finished my last one.
At least the afternoon passed quickly.
Then I was down to the kebab shop again, wondering -- will this be my evening repast for the next 18 days? My food choices prior to sunset prayer are pretty grim.
I went to the coffee shop after the fast opened and again it was virtually empty except for one of my work colleagues and another customer.
So I shall read some more, forward some of my travel related emails to work to print, and then.... go to bed.
Day Three
I woke up and walked to work. I made it the whole way on foot today - I usually get picked up. So in our work email in-boxes was "the project" we all have been waiting for so we have purpose for staying here. It is important (a curriculum overhaul) but not urgent (not coming into force for over a year).
Let's just say it was not well received by my colleagues. I am somewhat resigned at this point.
I came back home, had lunch, and finished the book I started yesterday and already started book 3.
Being afraid of getting burnt out on Kebab and FF, I walked around the corner to Little Caesars. It is only the second time I visited in 4 years. The Egyptian guy who waited on me was really funny and very pleasant given it was the last hour of the fast when most people are on their last nerve. I brought the pizza home and realized why it was only the second time I had been there in 4 years.... it was like a big round, flour nacho with sauce and mozzarella. OK -- it was edible, but it sure as hell was not pizza.
Later I went to the coffee shop which is now picking up some steam and attracting a few customers for breaking the fast.
I shall read a little more and sleep. Thank God for the internet, my Kindle, the Gutenberg Project, and long YouTube playlists.
Day Five
Work heated up a bit today as we all threw ourselves into the big project. Unfortunately, it is hard to move ahead due to lack of direction and management because most of the Saudis are not showing up. "It's so hard to work during Ramadan". Tell that to the rest of my Muslim colleagues (basically everyone) who are still showing up and doing work during Ramadan.
I came home and had lunch and finished my third book and started on the fourth. I am still with J W Campbell and his old science fiction.
Then one of my students, Omar, called me and invited me for a breaking of the fast meal called "iftar" (or as his family said, "fathur") He came and picked me up and we first made a stop at the Sambosa Market which is located in the parking lot of a large sports park on a hill overlooking the city. Lots and lots of food stalls for people to pick up food and rush home to break the fast. One of the main foods is "Sambosa" [see: the sambosa shop] which is a kind of flattened form of a traditional Indian samosa. They can be filled with mostly anything here, but mostly are filled with cheese or meet. The market was packed and Omar seemed to know everyone so progress was slow. Greetings here are HUGE.... and extremely tedious. A brief greeting with someone is tantamount to insult, so it was a long process just walking through the market.
We left the market and headed to Omar's house which is in the city center and is one of these HUGE apartment style, multifamily dwellings. His uncle has two floors and Omar's dad has two floors. We ate on the roof deck (it was a lovely night). The food was truly local which was a great relief from the endless dishes of "kabsa" (meat on a bed of rice) that is offered to you here in Saudi Arabia. We had dates and cream, some barley drink, a lovely hearty stew, and then some sandwiches that were a cross between a panini and a burrito. There were also sambosa and some great dipping sauces.
After they prayed, we retired to the living room where I chatted with Omar and his Dad and uncles, all of whom spoke good English. They chided me for not learning Arabic, but how can I express to them that I'd rather learn Klingon cuz it sounds similar and at least Klingons have some honor? hahahaha I just think if Arabic is so miraculous, I should just wake up one morning fluent. Inshallah, that will happen.
So I am back home and amazed that tomorrow will complete a full week at work during Ramadan. I guess it is survivable after all?
Day Six
It is Thursday, so turn out at the office was quite low. A friend who is working on a new course description with me took me to the local big book store to check out new textbooks. We met a lot of our English Department graduates there (sad, it is a low paying job....the economy here sucks).
I came home and had lunch and relaxed.
Then a small shitstorm ensued over rent for this final month. Usually we pay just a partial month and leave, but the owner got it in his mind that the wants a full month since ONE of the westerners living here is paying for the full month (cuz he is not sure of his departure date). It ended up with a lot of finger pointing and bad feeling.
I went to Little Caesar's for more bad pizza.
Then I went to the coffee shop and met a colleague and we bemoaned the ridiculousness of staying here during Ramadan.
Finally, one of my best ex-students (AQ) who is home for the first week of Ramadan with his family picked me up and we went for some tea in a lovely spot overlooking the city. He caught me up on his life and it made me feel good that I have at least one student who graduated and is quite successful. I really envy his starting life with a lot of potential and possibilities -- he is nervous but I assure him he will do fine.
I can't believe one work week is in the bag. Two more to go....
Day Eight
Nothing can really compare with complete and total boredom than the weekend here during Ramadan. Normally, I can't wait for the weekend. Now I dread it. Remember, everything is closed and the city looks somewhat post-Apocalyptic until about 4pm and you can't really eat anything until closer to 5pm (and then only in your home).
So I had another walk on the mamsha this morning - they continue to work on it and it's nice to see it unfold on a weekly basis.
Then, having finished my science fiction series, I started to go through my kindle to choose my next book. It eluded me - like a Chili's menu with too many choices, I chose nothing. I just listened to music and slept.
I had lunch and then went for my shave. My Pakistani barber just loves me and tells me all his life's problems in my 30 minute shave. His boss hates me for reasons unknown (especially considering I am a customer), but I pay him no mind. It was my last shave - next week I will get my summer buzz cut to prepare for my travels.
I came home and forced myself to decide on a book. So I started with the Meditations of Marcus Aurelius - it was a little hard to get into, but maybe right now I needed a little straightforward stoicism. Life is what it is...deal with it.
To balance that out I read some short stories by Hoffman who was a giant in Romantic literature, especially Gothic. Interesting stuff, I read two so far and they are both about "mysterious" Italians in Germany.
Then I walked to my friend EB's place for a vegan evening meal. He loves to cook and experiment and I am already sick of kebab and fries or Little Caesars. He made vegetarian kofta (meatballs), not bad.
I then went to the coffee shop and sucked down one latte cuz I am so addicted to caffeine.
I am actually looking forward to going to university tomorrow. At least it's something to do.
Day Ten
First, let me say that I have finished all my work and I go to the office daily to surf the net and chat with miserable colleagues who can't understand what on earth we are doing here...
But there is huge news today that impacts a lot of my friends (not me). Saudi Arabia and other Arab nations are now shunning Qatar for sponsoring terrorism (pots and black kettles for sure). That means no flights between Saudi and Qatar. So what? Well for the many many MANY colleagues of mine who take the twice daily flight on Qatar Airways to Doha to connect elsewhere, this is HUGE. There was a lot of panic in the office today.... what should they do? Cash in the ticket and change plans and buy a last minute super expensive ticket? Ride it out for another week or so in hopes it will be resolved (may well happen)? I am sure glad Saudi gets along well with UAE (Dubai/Abu Dhabi). I'd hate to think my first flight of summer would be cancelled due to a diplomatic row.
Other than that....more bad Little Caesar's pizza and a cafe latte for my caffeine fix. I'd like to say I'm getting used to it. But not really....
Day Eleven
In very good news today, we got our tickets to leave and our exit permits. Let me be quite clear, working here is a kind of voluntary serfdom. You only come and go and get things that are promised to you on the whim of the Saudis who take great pleasure in lording them over you. It sucks... it creates terrible feelings. Then again, when I am on my three month paid holiday, it seems that putting up with all this BS "isn't really all that bad".
On the topic of food, I think I have never adequately described what it's like to eat here. In this part of Saudi Arabia, we really don't have many places that would qualify as "restaurants". Jeddah and Riyadh are like foreign countries when it comes to this. We have fast food, local food outlets, and a few hotel restaurants. Thus, "eating out" means there is not a wide range of options for me.
Another issue is that food here is just "bad". This is not me whingeing about food either - just ask my Syrian, Jordanian or Egyptian friends about food here. The Saudis seem to be experts at rendering everything tasteless. Even the hummus here is bad. I have told Saudi friends that the supermarket hummus in the USA tastes better than what I get here. And the bread (which in the USA we call pita bread) is mass produced in factories and tastes awful.
The exception, as most of you know, is Yemeni food which I LOOOOVE. However, the best Yemeni restaurants are in the city center and it's just not practical to get to them during Ramadan.
Finally, we get to the supermarket. Oh dear.... a VERY limited selection of fruits and veggies. A huge butcher. No deli that you would recognize. Tons of canned food. Lots of sweet processed food (I swear it's half the supermarket). The only part that is "good" is the nuts and dates section. I remember one of my ex-colleagues from Romania who in fact loved to cook bitterly complaining about the difficulty in making the simplest of dishes. So there you have it - Ramadan for me who is not fasting is just rendered WORSE by cutting off access to the university cafeteria (which is for Saudi Arabia quite tasty) and having all my nearby food be basically fast food.
I can't have alcohol and sex in Saudi Arabia. You know, I hardly miss those. I just dream about good food. Usually the first place I go to with good food (for example Italy or Singapore) I almost burst into tears when I see good food for the first time.
So anyway - we are all free agents now and I guess we can leave, but we haven't heard officially even though we have all the documentation. It is only 9 days till the official last day - I am not sure if I will try to leave earlier or just keep my ticket as it stands.
Day Fifteen
I survived another weekend (my last, thank God). When I don't have to go to work (where there is nothing to do but at least I have colleagues to talk to), this place gets painfully dull.
I started packing up my stuff - that really doesn't take much time, but I hate doing it, so getting started feels like some kind of success. I live in a "hotel" (serviced apartment), which means I have to pack up everything at the end of each academic year. It helps me keep it light here... I accumulate next to nothing.
I had my last walk on the mamsha and I wonder what it will look like on my return. It is about 80% completed. Will they continue? Sometimes projects are just abandoned here before they are completed, oft times maddeningly close to completion too.
I am reading E.T.A. Hoffman still -- Romantic German writer translated to English. He wrote "the Nutcracker" by the way. I am surprised at the close cultural ties of the time between Germany and Italy. I never would have expected that. It is odd to read literature where men and women fall in passionate love at a glance.
The Qatar stand-off continues with the accusations flying that Qatar supports terrorism. Meanwhile in Marawi, Philippines where ISIS is trying to gain a foothold some of the foreign fighters are Saudi.
Tomorrow I will be back to work and I fully look forward to it (how about that?).
Counting days now, counting days....
Day Nineteen
As a final kick in the pants, the internet in my apartment went off around 5pm. If there is any time you need internet, it's the last 24 hours before you leave. (Sigh). Now here I am a "coffee shop refugee".
So I survived three weeks of Saudi Ramadan. In retrospect, it wasn't that it was painful or difficult, it was just super isolating and very frustrating. The timing of it could not have been worse -- just when I really needed to get out of here psychologically, I was forced to stay.
So I am checked-in for my flight tomorrow (thank God) and I have packed about 90% of my stuff.
My overview of this experience is that Ramadan here in Saudi Arabia is different from any other Ramadan experience I have both had and heard of in other places. Why doesn't that surprise me??
After fasting all day in most countries, the breaking of the fast is a joyous and celebratory event that brings everyone together. You normally dine with not only family but friends and even strangers. It is kind of a victory feast after having suffered the privations of no food and water (and cigarettes which I heard is horrible). My memories of iftar meals in Indonesia are that they were often spontaneous, inviting whomever happened to be around. My Sudanese colleague told me that it is not uncommon in his country for people to stop cars in the street and "force" people to come break their fast right then and there! But here in Saudi, as with many things, it is all rather secretive and "private". It totally takes away from the spirit of the holiday (even if I'm not a Muslim).
So my fourth year here ends with a bit of a whimper, but I am looking forward to my upcoming holiday...
Even if I hated it, I want to remember this experience. It proves to me that all of us can adapt to any situation - especially when given no choice. Was it worth it? I guess so, but I think my tolerance for "delayed gratification" was severely compromised by these experiences in Saudi Arabia. Is it worth being very unhappy for a long time to experience happiness for just a moment?