January 2014
This is what Singaporeans and the Singapore government say about Arab Street:
Arab Street is a hippy neighborhood which celebrates the multiple ethnicities of Singapore. During the day, merchants barter over carpets, souvenirs, Muslim clothing, and delicate textiles on Arab Street, which is a key appeal. Stop by one of the middle eastern cafés that line the street for a powerful, revitalising mint tea. When the sun sets, Arab Street transforms into a mecca for Middle Eastern foodies. Watch individuals smoking flavoured tobacco from shishas on the side of the road and sample traditional Arabic cuisine. There are eateries serving Moroccan, Lebanese, Persian, and Turkish cuisines.
Arab Street is a part of the Kampong Glam neighbourhood and has gained prominence as a heritage site. It was named after an Arab trader who had a port in the area. Arab Street refers to the area that includes Bussorah Street, Haji and Bali Lanes, and Muscat Street, rather than just one road. It is recognised for its unique mix of exotic stores selling Middle Eastern crafts, accessories, textiles, and home furnishings; fashionistas and art lovers frequent the trendy stores. The primary attraction of Arab Street, Sultan Masjid, is located in the heart of the street and attracts large crowds, especially during the holy month of Ramadan.
From the beginning, Kampong Glam was a magnet for traders and settlers from the Malay Peninsula and the Middle East. Along with a 19th-century predilection for Persian operas, this phenomenon saw streets renamed to Kandahar, Baghdad and, of course, Arab. Dense with atmosphere from the heady, smoky waft from bubbling shisha pipes, graceful swirls of
minarets, carpet sellers and colourful eateries, Kampong Glam is today one of Singapore’s trinity of Historic Districts (the other two are Little India and Chinatown). Arab Street is the main drag. From here, venture off into side streets and alleys filled with charming little shops selling everything from Kilim rugs to cult label designer jeans. The area is particularly important for its concentration of mosques. With its huge gold dome, the Taj Mahal-influenced Sultan Mosque.
(Singapore Government Publication: 2009_Rediscover Singapore II_Arab St)
Wishing a place into existence
On a medical trip to Singapore, my Saudi friend Rahmony asked where he should go and I jokingly said "Arab Street". He went and said, "you have to be kidding me". In short, other than a "mogul fantasy" mosque at the end of the street (which was INDIAN not Arab-inspired), there was very little for a Gulf Arab to recognize on a street named after his ethnic heritage. The above mentioned "concentration of mosques" means TWO mosques, by the way. Rahmony visited one and reported it felt very foreign: "I didn't even recognize how they were doing their prayers".
The place used to be a center for the Malay Community and was one of the "planned ethnic communities" by Sir Thomas Raffles for the Muslims of Singapore. In its day it was a bustling place because the Malays had great trade relations throughout the Islamic world. The place later fell on hard times and most the traders sought business elsewhere. It "sinified" like the rest of Singapore. After Singapore desperately tried to rebrand itself as a tourist destination, along with Chinatown and Little India, it was identified as a "named" historical neighborhood that was promoted as a "place to visit".
Kampong Glam and Arab Street in Singapore are great places to visit, but from someone who revisited while living in Saudi Arabia, I was staunchly with Rahmony - "you must be kidding me". There was nothing Arab about it and, in fact, very little Middle Eastern about it save a couple of restaurants. Would I recommend it on a visit to Singapore? Most definitely because it is a nicely restored little corner of old Singapore in the modern downtown. Is it anything like what the Singapore Tourism Board promotes? not remotely.
Comments