Dim sum, Ion Orchard. December 2018
Cantonese Breakfast
"Dim sum", or more correctly "yum cha", is the brunchy collection of small plates famous from the Guangzhou region of China. For a long time in the USA, it was one of the few authentic Chinese restaurant foods available and was found only in a few Chinatowns in big cities. Brian and I were lucky enough to discover it during the early New York years.
Back in the days of stone tools and no internet, we relied on books and the New York Times Magazine for suggestions on what to do in New York City beyond going to Central Park and the theatre. Brian and I bought this ridiculous, bible-thickness book that was more or less a "holy guide" to the City. One of the "must do's" was dim sum on Mott Street in Chinatown. The restaurant was so low key, the English name was just the street number. The first time we went, we weren't even sure it was the right place. We entered into a chaotic scene of mostly huge round tables with almost uniquely Chinese customers. We were adventurers, of course, so we dove in.
The waitress brusquely deposited a few small plates, tea-cups, and tea. No menus. OK, well, everyone around us was eating, so clearly something was going to happen. We heard the rattling of a small cart and soon it appeared with an array of steaming dishes (most covered). The cart conductors did not speak English - we were in Canton for a moment. Dishes were revealed one by one. Time to point and hope for the best. That we did and we LOVED it. Of course, some dishes were less well-received than others, but overall the food and the experience were amazing. Best of all, it was not expensive. The cart conductors ticked off things on a card (in Chinese) and we presented it to the cashier on exiting. The "bible" said it was good value and, that tome not failing us, it was amazingly cheap! We returned a few more times.
Enter our friends SH and BS from across the street. They heard about our adventure on Mott Street and INSISTED to join us for a visit one day. These were two of our best friends during the Washington Heights years [see: Magaw Place] and we were often at their place across the street hanging out. We literally were like the prequel to "Friends". They were, however, food "not adventurous" and we begged them to reconsider joining us. I flat out said, "you will not like it". BS said in her thick Dothan, Alabama accent, "Come ON, Matthew. We love Chinese food. There will have to be something we like!" They eventually wore us down and joined the food excursion one weekend. Upon entering the place they probably wanted to turn around and leave. I am sure they had never been in a place with only Asian diners. For Brian and me, this meant "authenticity". For SH and BS, this just meant "other worldly". We sat down and the cart conductor pushed up the first cart, BS insisted on asking about the dishes (even though we had warned her "not much English was spoken"). The dour cart matron replied, "Meetuh" and "Vejetahbul". Brian and I howled with laughter. Needless to say, they didn't eat much - refusing to consume anything that was not obviously identifiable. Honestly, Brian and I didn't care - they had been warned. We stopped every passing cart and picked out our favorite dishes.
Fast forward to the Singapore years where Brian and I had Straits Chinese friends whom we joined for "yum cha". In Singapore's Chinatown there were a few "authentic" Cantonese Tea Houses - minus the little food carts circulating. The food was amazing, but what was even more amazing, the ordering. It was so "in group" that no menus were needed. A few scrolls on the wall (in Chinese) posted some daily specials, but other than that everyone knew what they liked. A customer could have asked for a menu, but I observed most people sat down in a large group, the waiter came, and everyone at the table just recited their favorite dishes as he frantically scribbled on his pad trying to keep up. I was content with most anything, so I just let those around me order. I loved the experience of going to a place where already knowing the food was "expected". If BS had disliked not knowing what was in the food she could SEE in Chinatown New York, what would she have done in Singapore?
As a post-script: at NYU, I worked with a Chinese Language Professor Eva Chou, born and raised in the People's Republic. She once told me she and her siblings used to beg her Dad to take them out for Cantonese breakfast when they were kids. I think I would have done the same had it been available.
The name says it all "YUM cha".