Spain: Royal Palace, Madrid

July 2014

The Royal Palace of Madrid is the largest in Europe (in use). On that first visit to Madrid with AFVdR I had no idea what to expect. The building is actually the replacement of an earlier building started by the Moors, subsequently renovated and expanded.

On Christmas Eve 1734, the alcázar was destroyed by a fire that originated in the rooms of the French painter Jean Ranc. Response to the fire was delayed due to the warning bells being confused with the call to mass. For fear of looting, the doors of the building remained closed, hampering rescue efforts. Many works of art were lost, such as the Expulsion of the Moors, by Diego Velázquez. Others, such as Las Meninas, were rescued by tossing them out the windows. Fortunately, many pieces were saved because shortly before the blaze the King ordered that much of his collection be moved to the Buen Retiro Palace. This fire lasted four days and completely destroyed the old alcázar, whose remaining walls were finally demolished in 1738. Italian architect Filippo Juvarra oversaw work on the new palace and devised a lavish project inspired by Bernini's plans for the Louvre. Initially Juvarra wanted to build the palace in another location, however, the idea was discarded. His disciple Giambattista Sacchetti, also known as Juan Bautista Sacchetti or Giovanni Battista Sacchetti, was chosen to continue the work of his mentor. Sacchetti designed the structure to encompass a large square courtyard and resolved sightline problems by creating projecting wings.

(Wikipedia)

We actually started by visiting the Sabatini Garden behind the palace (beautiful and open to the public). After that we circled to the main gate where one can view the complex from its imposing iron front gates. The grand Plaza de la Armeria stretches out from the main entrance with the actual entrance doors far from the gates. The effect dwarfs the visitor. Across from the palace stands Madrid's very lately-built cathedral. The palace occupies a high point in the city - which makes sense considering it started as a defensive castle not a royal residence. I was gobsmacked, truly.

We didn't visit because our tour of Madrid was mostly a blow-through of the city. On subsequent visits, entering was never a priority for me because there were other interiors that attracted me more (like the Prado Museum). Nonetheless, the Spanish at the peak of their wealth built a palace meant to impress - it did.

One day I should return to see the interior...