Spain: Toledo Cathedral

June 2018

The Holy Church Cathedral is dedicated to Virgin Mary in her Ascension to the heavens. Its construction began in 1227 under order of the Archbishop Don Rodrigo Jiménez mandate. The site was situated over the foundations of the Visigoth Cathedral in the sixth century, which had been used as a Mosque. Constructed in a Gothic style with a French influence, it measures 120 m long by 60 m wide and contains 5 naves supported by 88 pillars and 72 vaults. The side naves are extended behind the Main Chapel surrounding the presbytery and this creates an apse aisle with a double semicircular corridor. Its first architect was the French origin Master Martín, who made the outlines and began construction at the front of the temple. The side naves could not be finished until the fourteenth century, in the time of Archbishop Don Pedro Tenorio. Also in this century on the north side, the low cloister was built with its compartments, the most remarkable of which is Chapel of Saint Blaise which was used as his burial.

https://www.catedralprimada.es/en/info/catedral/historia

According to legend, there had been a church on the site of the cathedral prior to the 6th century, however, it is certain that Visigoths constructed a church on the site in that era. After the Moorish invasion, the church was retained for a time to keep the local population happy. Eventually, it was torn down and a mosque erected. After the Spanish retook the town, King Alfonso (repeating history) agreed NOT to tear down the mosque to make the Muslim population less antagonistic. Eventually, though, the mosque was demolished and the current cathedral built.

Toledo Cathedral is considered the best example of Spanish Gothic architecture by some (better than León, Burgos, and Seville). Having seen them all, I find the comparison of which is "best" nearly impossible since they are all different. Needless to say, the Cathedral of Toledo remains one of my favorites in Spain. What made it different from the others is its well-illuminated interior and frescoes - those made a great impression on me. Most gothic churches are dark - Toledo is not.

Toledo (like Cordoba) was an incredibly important city for trade under the Moors, so much so that initially the Spanish made very few changes. "If it ain't broke don't fix it". However, slowly, the Spanish tolerance of having Muslims in their cities waned and Toledo morphed into a purely Spanish place. Without the Moors, however, the city never would have been important. Their success is what enabled the Toledanos to be wealthy enough to construct such an amazing cathedral.

The cathedral might have been the most impressive stop on my day trip to Toledo, but in a city steeped in history - it is hard to name just one thing that made the biggest impression on me. Toledo might be the "best" city in Spain to visit if a traveler had to choose only one place to visit - most of its sites are incredible.