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  • Writer's pictureMatthew P G

Spain: Tower of Hercules




July 2016.


The tower is known to have existed by the 1st century, built or perhaps rebuilt under Trajan, possibly on foundations following a design that was Phoenician in origin. Built with the original plans of the Lighthouse of Alexandria. Its base preserves a cornerstone with the inscription MARTI AVG.SACR C.SEVIVS LVPVS ARCHITECTVS ÆMINIENSIS LVSITANVS.EX.VO,[4] permitting the original lighthouse tower to be ascribed to the architect Gaius Sevius Lupus, from Aeminium (present-day Coimbra, Portugal) in the former province of Lusitania, as an offering dedicated to the Roman god of war, Mars. The tower has been in constant use since the 2nd century and is considered to be the oldest existent lighthouse. The original tower was shorter and wider, as the surviving core was surrounded by a spiral ramp. The outline of this ramp is still visible in the restored exterior. The final story was likely surmounted with a dome.

(Wikipedia)


I loved A Coruña. [see: A Coruña] If the city had better weather, I could see the whole world wanting to move there. One place worth special mention, however, is the "Tower of Hercules". At the Atlantic facing end of the hammer-shaped peninsula that protects the city is a windswept park. I saw a place of sheer cliffs, crystal clear water, and sheltered coves with beautiful little beaches. The feel was as if the vegetation save the grass had all been blown off. Only in the the small inlets and coves hidden from the wind could be found small, stunted trees and bushes. If ever there needed to be a image representing "windswept", that would be the place. I couldn't even imagine being out there when the Atlantic was in full fury. I wondered if people literally had been blown right into the sea? Atop it all stood the Lighthouse of Hercules.


I visited the lighthouse twice because the weather was spectacular and the setting was amazing. Surprisingly, A Coruña is not "famous" for having the world's oldest continually operating lighthouse. The building was erected under the Emperor Trajan on something EARLIER. Wow! Maybe A Coruña is content to be famous for its great seafood and the city itself? The lighthouse is the symbol of the city, but it is not like the aqueduct in Segovia which has, since mass tourism, become the only reason to visit the town (even though the town minus the Roman waterworks was beautiful, too). A Coruña didn't need a "draw" - the lighthouse was a bonus.


I stumbled on A Coruña traveling to a point on a map. During that visit I once again, by chance, found this superlative, ancient structure I had never heard of. The oldest lighthouse and built on the design of the Great Lighthouse of Alexandria - how did I never hear of it?

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