USA: New Orleans (revisited)
- Matthew P G
- 1 day ago
- 6 min read
January 2026
Ironically, I have only visited New Orleans in January, and of the three times I arrived (with Brian in the early 90s and pre- & post-cruise in 2026) the weather was unseasonably cold. I realize that NOLA is not balmy in January, but temperatures in the 40s in the daytime were never my expectation.
After the my first cruise with Norwegian Cruise Lines [see: Norwegian Escape - Central America), I stayed a full day in the city. It reminded me how much I loved the city in spite of the chilly temperatures.
The arrival to NOLA was cold, especially after the balmy days in Mexico and the Caribbean. Nonetheless, the sunrise over the Crescent City Connection bridge was lovely.
I put off exiting the ship as late as I could and finally joined the queue to depart. Once on the street, I walked to the hotel just off Canal Street not far from the port. It was ungodly early, but the hotel was used to post-cruisers. They stored my bag and put my name on a list for as early a check-in as possible. I had many hours to kill before any reasonable expectation of entering the room.
I first stopped at Lyon Coffee up the street from the hotel. It had received extremely high praise for excellent service and decent coffee. Both turned out to be true. I sat in a sunny window and had a delicious latte warming up and looking out over the street. I studied the city map and considered my options.
As it was nearby, I decided to start with Jackson Square.
Even if Andrew Jackson is my personal choice for "worst president", the square that bears his name is a lovely central plaza (that most American cities do not have). NOLA clearly has roots as a city laid out by Europeans, first Spanish, then French). The view of St Louis Cathedral from the river levee was beautiful in the morning light.
The Louisiana State Supreme Court was built to impress (although sadly tearing down two blocks of the French Quarter to construct it) only to fall on hard times almost immediately because of the cost of maintaining it. Finally, the court vacated the building and it became law offices. Only in recent times was there a push to renovate and bring the court back "home". Luckily, the effort was successful.
Though considered one of the finest courthouses in the nation upon its completion, inadequate funding for maintenance led to the building’s long decline. The Louisiana Supreme Court moved out in 1958 to the new Civic Center complex on Loyola Avenue. By 1982 all other agencies and offices had vacated the building for more modern spaces. (The last occupant was the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries.) During the 1980s, lawyers and judges, remembering the building’s former glory, discussed the possibility of renovating the building and moving the Supreme Court back in. The idea took hold, and the Supreme Court of Louisiana Historical Society was founded in 1992 to support the return of the Court to its former home. Intense legislative lobbying from several interested parties secured funding to renovate and restore the building. By 2004, all restoration work was completed, and the Louisiana Supreme Court; the Law Library of Louisiana; the Louisiana Court of Appeal, Fourth Circuit; the offices of the Louisiana Judicial Administrator; and the Louisiana Attorney General moved back into an architectural gem given a second chance to shine.
New Orleans' cheerful, vintage streetcars are still used and make a great way to get around the center of the city. How sad the US used to be filled with them and now only a handful of lines remain. It is clear that the city has put effort into maintaining the system just as San Francisco does with its cable cars.
Old Man River - Robert Schoen's "Old Man River," a stone human figure made from Carrara marble. Weighing in at 17 tons and standing 18 feet high, the statue speaks to the river's power and majesty in its rounded, circular body forms.
Along the levee I came across the sculpture "Old Man River". I honestly didn't get it - why are his limbs cut off?
All that lovely, iconic wrought iron everyone associates with NOLA is actually Spanish, not French. The French won the Louisiana Territory from the Spanish in a war. Inasmuch as we all love the "French" Quarter, much of its layout and architecture is Spanish.
I didn't stop in the iconic Cafe du Monde because it is now just a tourist attraction, but hats off to the place for its staying power in the city.
I couldn't decide if I wanted a Po'boy or a Muffaletta for lunch. I went to deli on Rue Royale where both are well-reviewed. Finally, I decided on the Muffaletta. Oh my God, it was HUGE. I took it back to Jackson Square to sit in the sun and eat it for lunch. In a stroke of amazing good luck, a group of buskers was playing Dixieland Jazz just outside the park. I don't think my NOLA experience could have been any better (I only hate half of the sandwich).
Luckily, after lunch, the hotel texted me that the room was available (much better than waiting until 4pm, the normal check-in time). I was so grateful that I gave the other half of my sandwich to the woman at reception. She was very pleased (as well she should have been).
Once I got settled, I went out again into the city to explore. I decided to see the French Market - a place Brian and I had missed on our first trip (not sure why?).
The oldest part of the market is half food (yay) and half souvenirs (ugh). It was a Sunday, so it was crowded. I recognized a lot of faces from the ship, too. I loved the food options, but I just had a Muffaletta! I was stuffed, so I just walked around wishing I could stay in NOLA a week only to eat.
A statue of Jean d'Arc graces a small square next to the French Market. I forgot she was from Orléans, France.
Tucked away behind the market is the beautiful little Latrobe Park. Unfortunately, it is a hangout for the destitute (of which NOLA sadly has many).
Walking back across the French Quarter I was in the mood to sit down for a beer (and listen to live music which seemed to be everywhere). I randomly (and wisely) chose the Crescent City Brewhouse which has a lovely bar, a great interior and live music. I loved its "jellyfish" lighting.
The Crescent City Brewhouse is the oldest brewpub in Louisiana, a 17-barrel state-of-the-art brewery, which incorporates Old World values and modern technology. World-class beer is brewed in small quantities according to the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516 from four natural ingredients: water, malt, hops, and yeast. No stabilizers or chemicals are used. All brewing is completed in-house.
Needless to say the beer was excellent.
After the tasty beer, I headed out of the French Quarter to visit another public square, Lafayette (and check out the nearby train station). Lafayette Square was hosting an event promoting city organizations, so it was hard to appreciate how it might have looked in its normal state. The city on the other side of Canal is a mix of modern and renovated industrial - completely different from the French Quarter. A lot of the large hotels are located there. I felt happy those large, boxy buildings had not been placed in the French Quarter!
I continued on to the train station, located next to a highway - just by the Superdome. I always fancied taking the train to NOLA and wondered about the neighborhood. Unfortunately, the station is in a desolate area (why?) and arriving there at night (when most trains do) would likely not be safe for walking into downtown (actually not that far). Of course, taxis are always available, but the whole point of taking a train is the convenience of arriving in the city center and walking (in my opinion). I felt disappointed.
I looked at my watch and rushed back to the riverside. It was coming up on 4pm and the Norwegian Escape would be departing soon with its next batch of passengers. I wanted to watch it pass by.
The boat departed late (ours was on time) and I stood along the cold, windy river for a long time just to wave at the people on board (as people had done for us). The trip had come full circle.
I felt cold and retreated to the hotel (nearby). I would be leaving the next morning. Happy to visit NOLA again after many years, I felt satisfied with the time I spent there, reminding me how much I liked the city. I noted it had improved a lot in the intervening years from my first visit with Brian. New Orleans will always be worth a trip in my book, if only for the food. Mental note: next time don't visit after a cruise. ha!
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