December 2007
On our second visit to Vietnam, the drive to Ho Chi Minh City was punctuated with visiting Cham Archeological sites. The Cham were an incredibly important empire in Southeast Asian history that has largely been forgotten. Their forlorn temples dot central and southern Vietnam. Since the Cham were not ethnically Viet, their sites have not received much attention from the Vietnamese government. During the French colonial period many precious pieces of art were taken to France (or at least put in the Cham Sculpture Museum in Danang). [see: Museum of Cham Sculpture, Danang]
My Son is Vietnam's largest temple complex from the Cham period. It is on par with Angkor Wat (Cambodia), Borobudur (Indonesia), and Bagan (Myanmar). It is also totally in ruin.
In 1937, French scholars began to restore the temples at Mỹ Sơn. In 1937 and 1938, the main temple known as "A1" and the smaller temples surrounding it were restored. Other major temples were restored between 1939 and 1943. However, many historical buildings were destroyed during the Vietnam War. The temples were part of a People's Army of Vietnam and Viet Cong base area and consequently United States aircraft bombed the region in August 1969. The surrounding area is still rendered dangerous through the presence of unexploded land mines.
The majority of the temple sites in the center of the complex have survived to this day. However, worries persist regarding the structural soundness of the remaining temples, some of which are vulnerable to collapse. Although many statues have been removed to France or to historical museums in Vietnam, such as the Museum of Cham Sculpture in Da Nang, others can be viewed in an in-situ museum that has been set up with the funding of benefactors from Germany and Poland.
(Wikipedia)
Brian and I were interested in My Son not only for its Cham connection, but also for its American one. I am old enough to remember its bombing in the news. It didn't register at the time but the name stuck. I never really thought I would travel to Vietnam, but when I finally did make it there I was horrified that the US Military bombed an ancient site. It is true the Viet Cong had made a base in and around the ruins, but that was no reason to bomb it indiscriminately. In fact, the explosions didn't totally destroy the complex, but the impacts shook the old buildings to their foundations and they were already close to toppling. I felt saddened and outraged.
With Vietnam trying to downplay the importance of the Cham in their country's history coupled with the "American War" devastation, My Son is not doing well. Given how enterprising the Vietnamese are, I am surprised they haven't invited a few Western Universities (with deep pockets) to stabilize and restore the entire complex. It could then be promoted and there would be well-heeled travelers from China, Japan, Australia, Europe, and North America just waiting to spend money to visit. As it stands, it is barely being given life-support by a few foreign universities' Archeology Departments. Politics and history are conspiring against My Son - such the shame.