July 1998
The time spent in Victoria Falls [see: Victoria Falls] was the highlight of the trip to Southern Africa. Brian and I literally loved every single activity we participated in. One of the best organized trips was a simple float on the Zambezi River on a pontoon boat that took us dangerously close to the edge of the falls and then to a bloat of Hippos which we discovered later was more dangerous than approaching the falls! However, the best was yet to come.
Much of the tourism we experienced in that part of the world was "fantasy-based". When Africa was colonized by the Europeans, they lived in a sort of buffered splendor. Today when tourists come to these ex-European colonies, they are not only looking to see wildlife, but also to recreate a bygone age glimpsed only in films. Akin to looking for the Raj in India or the Dutch East India Company in Indonesia, tourists in Africa expect these powerful throwback experiences in addition to the excitement of safariing across the bush in search of wildlife. I must admit, some of the recreations of that bygone age were incredibly beautiful.
When the sun was setting on the Zambezi, our guides broke out the champagne and snacks and we watched the sky dim over that famous river. Our drinks were absolutely unnecessary and completely decadent. We paid a lot for the experience, but we were on holiday so why not? We had several such moments on that trip, and our first was floating on the Zambezi. I enjoyed it, but felt just a touch of conflict inside. Was it really required to live out this colonial fantasy? We were supporting a local economy and the Zimbabweans (such lovely people) were happy to make us happy (and earn Z dollars). I never detected even an iota of resentment - but still I wondered how our boatman and guide felt watching us take photos and sip champagne while they certainly lived a more modest existence.
Social ponderings aside, it was one of the best moments of the trip. A place that had only been a name (Zambezi) had come alive and I was experiencing it in a glorious way. For that, I feel extremely grateful.