Cross-Canada: journal entries

In the early summer of 1989, because I worked at NYU, I was lucky to enjoy a very long summer holiday. In fact, NYU gave six weeks of vacation (even for staff), so I saved one week for the year end and the remaining five for summer (when things were slow on campus). Canada had been promoting tourism and was offering a discounted, one-month rail pass. Brian had to work all summer as a law clerk, so I was on my own. I wrote about this journey previously: what follows are my notes from the trip (which I discovered going through some old things). They add more travel anecdotes and insights into my reactions to things as they happened. I don't like to be repetitious, but then again - the point of this blog is record what happened during my travels. Note that the dates reflect the journal entries, not the events. I can't believe the number of people I met on the trip and had forgotten (unfortunately). In some ways, this is the "human" version of my earlier post which focused mainly on the destinations.

Five Weeks above the 49th Parallel: Niagara Falls, ON to Vancouver, BC

Summer 1989

May 27

Departure

A departure from Grand Central is always exciting. Travelers actually feel like they are making a grand exit from the City. Accompanied by all the fears that go with a five-week, low-budget excursion, I boarded the train from a steamy waiting room. Unfortunately, all the good seats with river views were snapped up quickly by the crowd ahead of me. I had to be content with watching the views of the Hudson River unfold from across the aisle.

I couldn't help but think what a horrible impression NYC must make on people arriving to/departing from Grand Central for the first time. The train passes by not only some of the worst parts of Harlem, but also the South Bronx. However, around the northern tip of Manhattan things rapidly improve and by the time the tracks reach the Hudson River Valley, the views are spectacular (and continue to be so for quite a distance). The scenery ranges from pleasant to gorgeous. Bother the Rhine and the Danube in Europe, if the Hudson had castles on some of its hills, it would put both those legendary rivers to shame (the Hudson sports a few very creative island lighthouses anyway).

One continuous valley eventually gives way to a series of low mountains that the river (and rails) wind through. The riverbank is dotted with marshland. The breadth of the river, almost all the way to Albany, is incredibly wide. My first time experiencing it, I felt amazed. After Albany, the tracks parallel a canal as far as Utica (the Erie, I assumed). The land also flattens out and the scenery appears more like Lancaster County, PA.

Buffalo's huge, derelict train station (far from downtown) signals the entry to that city. The tracks then follow the Niagara River giving an occasional glimpse of the river and Lake Erie. The crossing into Canada is located well below the falls - only the mist is visible. The bridge provides a magnificent view of the deep canyon the falls have cut, filled with turbulent blue-green water. It felt strange to think a canyon divides the US and Canada for a few miles - especially on the East Coast.

Customs and immigration seemed to drag on endlessly, but finally the train pulled into Niagara Falls, ON station. It was only a few minutes walk to the hostel.

Niagara Falls, ON

May 29

Upon arrival I checked in, found a nice pub to get something to eat, and then continued to the Falls. The hostel seemed pleasant enough with an informative manager. Located in the "old" part of Niagara Falls (where actual people live), its situation felt quaint, like staying in an American town in the 1950s.

The walk to the Falls was long (3 km), but beautiful. The road and sidewalk follow the Niagara River Gorge with great views of the river and the New York side. Many houses on the road were beautiful old mansions turned in B&B's. The view of the American Falls is fantastic from the Canadian side as it is directly opposite, but the American Falls are nothing compared to the Canadian ones. Viewing the Canadian Falls from the very edge of their drop is incredible. The mist from the falling water drifts over visitors and the sunlight creates rainbows everywhere. Add to that, on my visit the sun was setting and bathing everything in a golden light. Suddenly the temperature dropped and I felt extremely cold (and damp). In spite of freezing to death, I stayed on for the lighting of the Falls (very famous). Due to the longer summer days, the start of the show appeared washed-out, but the later portion (in blue and green) was extremely beautiful. That evening in the hostel brought some interesting conversation with a loquacious Irishman, an American girl, and a very well-travelled Aussie (who was on a "typical' four-year trip).

The sleep at the hostel was uncomfortable. The mattresses were "noisy" (covered in plastic), so with all the tossing and turning in the room, it was hard to relax. The next morning I woke up early and struck up a conversation with the security guard. He was extremely un-knowledgeable about the area - he didn't even know which lake was Erie and which was Ontario. However, the guy was very friendly - like most people from small town North America.

In the hostel was also staying a German woman who was extremely negative - to the point where I labeled her a b..... She was living in a university town outside of Toronto and all she did was complain about everything. Ironically, later a group of Germans arrived in the lobby and I hit it off with them instantly. We all went out for breakfast together (including the nasty woman whom they didn't appear to like either). We all hung out most of the morning contemplating a visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake (highly recommended by BP in Vancouver who was going to visit later). Finally, it didn't seem feasible, so I decided to continue to Toronto (in spite of the fact that everyone in the Niagara Hostel told me the Toronto Hostel was terrible). I spent some time with a young Japanese guy who had bicycled from Toronto to Niagara Falls - wow. After years of not staying in hostels, I started to remember why they could be so much fun. It was not about the accommodation - it was the comradery.

Finally, the time came to buy my train ticket and leave. I found myself seated with a British and an Australian couple. We had great conversation which broke up the unremarkable landscape. The train-ride was mostly rolling farmland, but occasionally we had a view down the escarpment and across the lake to Toronto - a tiny skyline with one tall tower glistening on the other side of the water.

Finally we arrived at the very clean railway station in Canada's premier city. I had to ride the local train to the hostel. Toronto's subway was also excellent, but not as good as Montreal's.

Toronto

After locating the youth hostel, to my great surprise I met the Germans from Niagara Falls. They had come by rental car. We all checked in amidst the reconstruction/renovation of the hostel. After getting settled, we started off together for downtown. That day was long, but extremely enjoyable.

We first hit the CN tower only to find a massive queue. We then redirected to the waterfront and thought about renting a small sailboat (two of the Germans had sailing licenses); however, upon arrival, we discovered the boat rental shop was not yet open. Finally, we sat on the water's edge to relax and drink in the beautiful view. The weather suddenly cooled off, so we agreed to return to the room, put on warmer clothes, and then find some lunch.

Back at the hostel, the man at the front desk made some rather disparaging anti-American comments (which I pointed out to him). I let the Germans do the interacting after that. The guy told us about a good restaurant in Toronto's Greektown. Toronto has extremely well-defined ethnic enclaves (even more than the US). Upon arrival in the Greek neighborhood we found even the street signs were in Greek. Unfortunately, the restaurant was way over budget for all of us, but we decided to splurge and enjoy it. The dinner was filled with good food and conversation. One of the women, Stephanie, had worked and traveled in China. We talked long about our experiences working and traveling in Asia.

As night had fell, we got in the Germans' car to get a view of the city skyline with the lake in the foreground. We drove to Ontario Place, beautifully illuminated. Unfortunately, it was closing so we only got out briefly to take photos and then returned to the hostel. The car was packed with the six of us - but it was a memorable experience. Everyone slept well that night.

May 30

The next day started under clouds, but later cleared up. As usual, trying to get an early start with a large group was futile. We didn't leave the hostel until 11:00am. We returned to the CN Tower and made it to the viewing deck. For me, it was a letdown - not terrible, but not all that interesting either. In the end, it is just a tower mostly overlooking the lake. Although we all managed to get student tickets for entry, we later discovered we had to pay yet again to get to the highest viewpoint. I opted out (as did a few others). Those that went said it was great, but I was sure they just wanted to feel they had done something special (and we had not). In the end, Toronto is a big city, but not like New York. Most of the view was over slate gray Lake Ontario. To prevent suicides, the viewing deck is covered in netting (which makes photo taking a challenge). The view straight down was vertigo-inducing for me.

The CN tower stop was followed up by a harbor cruise - maybe the best thing we did that day. The skyline and the offshore islands are extraordinarily beautiful, especially on a sunny day. The lake water was blue and the breeze was fresh. At that moment, I thought owning a boat must be a wonderful thing.

We then went to the Eaton Centre - a large downtown mall. I tried in vain to explain to my German friends that such places were very typically North American. Even though Eaton Centre was lovely (in reality just ok), it certainly should not be a "high point" for anyone's trip to Toronto (especially after that boat ride). We escorted one of the women to the airport to continue her journey and then made another attempt to see Ontario Place. We discovered that Ontario Place had a high entrance (and parking) fee so we explored the small harbor nearby. While there, we noted there was a great "fish die off" with hundreds of dead fish floating in the lake. What had caused it? (it seemed ominous)

Later we returned to the hostel and found a rooftop bar for drinks. Once again we went to Ontario Place (because parking and entrance at night were free). Finally, we entered - it was beautiful, in fact, some parts were stunning, but it was shockingly expensive for us. Nonetheless, I thought of Brian and me returning in the future with money and fully enjoying it. I filed it away in my very long list of "places I'd like to return".

Back at the Toronto Youth Hostel, we discovered the mattresses were also plastic-covered (like those in Niagara Falls) - it was another restless night where each turn made a sound. I wondered if all beds in Canada would be like that for the coming five weeks. If so, I think sleepless nights would start to interfere with my travels.

May 31

Toronto to Ottawa

All of us woke and took breakfast together. Later, the Germans dropped me at the train station and I continued my onward journey east (the Germans were heading west). While waiting for the train I struck up a conversation with a young Canadian who had just moved from Northern Ontario. He related very interesting tales of living in "the far North" - nothing like the rest of Canada. The day was cloudy and worsened as we neared Ottawa. We passed close to Lake Ontario a few times as well as crossed the Rideau Canal back and forth. Otherwise, the scenery was one of small farms - typical of North America. Ottawa Station is a huge complex on the edge of town. Both beautiful and modern, it was built to service the nation's capital. I had to take a bus to the youth hostel, one of the most interesting of the trip.

Ottawa

Ottawa's official youth hostel is in the former jailhouse. The rooms are actually old cells. It stood out as one of the most unique hostels I had ever stayed in. I met an anti-American Brit and a Harvard Law student, Joe. I wasn't surprised to meet British people in Canada who disliked the US - in my travels I had met several who proudly said they would visit Canada, but "never set foot in the US". Their loss, I thought. Joe and I went out for dinner and enjoyed some excellent conversation. To that point, I felt very lucky about meeting good people among fellow travelers. Frustratingly, I found out I might not be able to get on the train I wanted due to heavy demand during peak summer season. The weather was not cooperating either.

May 31

I awoke to continued poor weather - the worst part was the cold. I did manage to get a good night's sleep (finally). I waited that morning in the hostel to see if others might have an interesting plan, but it appeared I was going to be on my own. First stop was the Rideau Centre (yet another shopping mall) to find a post office (which ended up being closed). I wanted to send a few postcards. The mall itself was large, but did not have a spacious feel to it. I exited in search of something better.

The first real cultural point of interest was the National Gallery of Art. The building alone was impressive - it was one of the finest examples of modern architecture I had seen to date. I found the design as good (or better) than the East Wing of the National Gallery in Washington. Unfortunately, the collection was not noteworthy The building's grand passageways and inner courtyards stole the show. Additionally, the museum provided beautiful views of the Canadian Parliament. How disappointed I was that it was still not sunny.

The walk took me to the Rideau Canal and the Ottawa River where I found a small Canal Museum. The exhibition was interesting and the staff extremely friendly. That area by the locks between the Laurier Hotel and the Parliament Buildings is very tranquil. I walked back up a small hill to the Houses of Parliament for a tour.

The Canadian Parliament buildings must be the most beautiful in all of the Americas. They are pure Gothic fantasy both inside and out. The tour was fascinating (and informative). Visitors could climb the Peace Tower (clock tower) as well. I found the view nice, but not amazing. The best part was looking down on the detail of the building itself. For me, the complex surpassed anything in Washington. Even the stone (limestone) was fossil-bearing so it was possible to spot a random shell in the walls.

In contrast, the Canadian Supreme Court (just down the street) was disappointing - but honestly, any building was going to have a hard time competing with the Houses of Parliament. In a very interesting "statement of location", the US Embassy is located directly in front of the Canadian Parliament. (Note: later the Canadians built their new embassy on Pennsylvania Avenue directly in view of the Capitol).

Back down at the Rideau Canal, I took a cruise. Since Ottawa is not very large, outside of the government complex there isn't too much to see. The canal ride was pleasant and relaxing. I met a nice couple from Maryland and we commented on some of the grand homes that lined the canal. The canal tour ended at a large lake (within the city). For the third time on the trip I thought having a boat would have been great. We returned to the dock and I pressed on with my tour.

The last place I visited was By-ward Market - full of fresh produce and small, local shops. Unfortunately, it appeared the area around it was becoming gentrified quickly. The market was on the cusp of becoming over-developed (as many such places are). I loved walking around the neighborhood. If I were to live in Ottawa, that would be my top choice.

Finally, I returned to the hostel to relax and prepare for my trip farther east (Quebec City). I still hadn't decided how long I would stay there - the weather had not cooperated much and a rainy, cold destination is never much fun.

June 3

Once again I fell in with a group and ended up spending more than I planned:

I met Ross and we booked tickets together to Montreal and onward to Quebec. Having someone on a train journey with whom to talk is always preferable. Surprisingly, we were fed on the train (later, I found that was only a perk on "Corridor" trains between Toronto and Quebec City). Since I was eventually headed west on a long journey, having free food would have been a big help. Ross was a pathologist from Victoria, Australia on a one-year holiday (again: when don't Australians take massive holidays??) I also caught a few Z's.

The rails cross the St. Lawrence (following the south bank - very dull). Eventually the tracks make a long loop around Quebec City which sits on a plateau above the river. Just after the Ste. Foy Station, there are dramatic views down the St. Lawrence River from atop a high cliff. We finally pulled into a nicely renovated station in the lower town. I was in Quebec City - a place I always wanted to visit.

Quebec City

Exiting the train, I luckily met another person headed for the youth hostel (from Newfoundland). He knew the exact location, so I only needed to follow him. The hike to the upper city was strenuous. Upon arrival, the youth hostel reception staff were uncharacteristically unfriendly. It took almost an hour until we finally got into our room. Once settled, we chatted with the others. Soon we all decided to go for dinner at an Italian place one of the guys knew. In the group was Joe from Ottawa (whom I knew), Jamey from Edmonton, David from Maine, and Hugh & Richard from England. We made for a festive bunch and after dinner we went to a very rowdy bar, Brasserie St. Jean, for some beers. We witnessed a bar fight and a drunk woman get thrown out of the place. The drafts were cheap, but we were only served if we spoke French. Not finished with our merriment, we topped it off with a trip to a Reggae Bar. There we danced (we were drunk) and the other guys all felt a rush of hormones. Note that I was the only one in the group who actually danced with a woman. Ha! We finally returned to the hostel exhausted.

The next morning we had to check in again (nightmarish) and change rooms due to the many school groups. The woman at reception was the same as the night before and she was incredibly unreasonable (and enjoyed her power over us). We all hated her attitude. After vacating our room, she would not let us enter our new rooms until later that morning. We all swore we would never stay at that hostel again. Finally, we were allowed into our new space and dropped our stuff - that ended up wasting everyone's entire morning.

Once we left, we escorted Hugh & Richard to the train station and then continued on to see Montmorency Falls. I had never heard of them - they were surprisingly spectacular. Perhaps Niagara dwarfs all other falls in eastern Canada? It is possible to walk right up to the edge of the falls (very misty), but we declined as it was cold and no one wanted to get wet. We viewed the falls from both bottom and top and wished the weather were better. The cold damp rain seemed to be following me everywhere.

We decided to travel to Île d'Orléans in the St. Lawrence and have our lunch there. That island turned out to be one of the best parts of the visit to Quebec City. We located a restaurant with OK food, but the best part was the waitress (who was cute and the other guys were instantly in love) who made us speak correct French to order (but in a joking way). The island itself was rural filled with old homes and farms dating to colonial times. On our visit, the meadows were covered with dandelions which made a carpet of gold all around us. The scenery was magical.

Upon our return, Jamey left for Montreal and the rest of us went back to the city center. I had to get more money (I was over budget already - money was pouring out of my wallet like water) and then we took a walk around the city walls. By the time we arrived at the Citadel, we were exhausted although the walk between the Chateau Frontenac Hotel and the Citadel was beautiful. We considered entering the Citadel, but it had an entry fee. We were all on tight budgets. Instead we returned to the hostel to relax. Joe was there and we talked to him for awhile. At that point we met Lionel, a Frenchman on a cultural exchange. He could barely speak English which forced all of us to try to speak French more (of which were weren't keen because we felt Quebec was very "language negative" about French use). Lionel was sweet, but in complete culture shock. David, Ross, Lionel, and I went out for some pizza and another walkabout in the city. I grew tired of translating stuff for Lionel (although I felt sorry for him - he was completely lost).

Finally, we caught a lovely sunset (the cloud cover broke - we were all happy) and then headed for the Grande Allée, Quebec City's nightlife center. We found it small and overpriced, but it made for a pleasant stroll if only to see all the people crowded onto the the streets and cafes there. We decided to make it an early night. Luckily, I managed to book tickets as far as Gaspé and then the return for the long trip west to Winnipeg and onward to Edmonton (with a change in Montreal). My train onward train was at 10pm the following day. Quebec City had turned out to be very different from what I expected in both good and bad ways.

The final day in Quebec was a slow one. We walked around the lower town and then took a proper tour of the city walls (which we should have done in the first place). I learned the significance of the history between Britain and Quebec which led to all the language/culture politics of today. "Je me souviens" made far more sense on the Quebec license plates after that. For lunch, we ate at a Lebanese place and gave a big farewell to David. The sun finally came out beautifully. Ross and I again walked around the promenade under the Chateau Frontenac. There, I sat down and enjoyed the sun and wrote a few postcards (and journaled). Ross hung out with me for some time, but then left to catch his train to Montreal. Once again, after being a member of group, I was alone.

I had to admit that Vieux Quebec was very touristy and a turn-off for me, but it was beautiful. Montmorency Falls was a surprise find and Île d'Orléans was the unexpected highlight of the visit. Outside of meeting a few people who truly were assholes (no other word describes them better) like the woman at the Youth Hostel, most everyone was kind and patient in both languages. I left Quebec City with fun memories mostly - just not with the "romantic European flavor" I expected.

June 5

Following my unsuspected break in the journey randomly hanging out with people, I got back on track. After Ross' departure up on the Promenade des Gouvernors, I returned to the hostel to find Lionel. We went out for dinner and chatted as I waited for my train departure. Honestly, I was ready to move on - psychologically. Then, of course, it started to rain. From that point on, in fact, rain dogged the journey once again. To catch the train east I had to take a ferry to Levis Station on the other side of the St. Lawrence. I finally did get on the train - but not without even more drama.

Train to Gaspé

The start of the journey was not auspicious. The train was immediately delayed because someone had a heart attack and had to be medically evacuated. Add to that, a group of loud, young Americans made it difficult to relax (let alone sleep) - luckily they got off around midnight. I kind of slept (as much as one can on a train coach seat). At least I was headed off toward Gaspé and back on my original itinerary.

The following morning I awoke feeling unrested, but got a coffee and watched the sea views unfold as the rails paralleled the water. The sky was overcast and we passed through showers on and off. Nonetheless, it was a beautiful ride along the coast. Upon arrival in Gaspé it was still rainy, so I took refuge in a nearby restaurant until it let up. Then I actually hitchhiked (it was recommended as a viable mode of transport in that part of Canada) needing TWO rides to make it to my next destination at the end of the peninsula. One of my rides was a truck driver who was warning me that there were bears in the woods, but due to his strong accent, I thought he was telling me there was "gold" in the hills (which I found very odd). I didn't get rained on (thank God), but I was worried about a downpour the entire time.

Gaspé

Upon reaching the hostel, I found it closed - it would not reopen for two hours. I waited by the entry feeling cold and tired (and it started raining again). Finally Gilles, the manager and his partner, Babette, arrived. They were extremely kind and sympathetic to my long journey there (without a car). In the hostel I later met Peter from Australia. We would spend the next 24 hours together. Additionally, I met Andre - a rather strange French-Canadian, and one more guy who at least was friendly. Gilles, the manager, showed us some slides of the peninsula and interesting destinations filled with explanations. It was probably the best-prepared hostel of the trip. Peter, the other guy, and I stayed up late talking.

I slept like the dead after that long and stressful journey.

Gaspé, PQ to Campbellton, NB

Since it was clear that I needed a car to visit most of Gaspé's interesting places, I decided heading back was probably the best course of action. I felt a little disappointed not to see more, but then again - I had reached the Atlantic end of the Canadian mainland. The journey was really about traveling coast to coast. Luckily, Peter had a car and I joined him for a more leisurely ride west. My real "cross Canada" journey had just begun. We stopped at the Jacques Cartier Monument (strange art - stunning location) and then the famous rock arch at Percé. The "rock" at Percé actually exceeded expectations - Peter and I walked out to it and around it (it was low tide). Then we continued at a slow pace toward our goal for the day, Campbellton, New Brunswick (just across the border from Quebec).

In Campbellton, we grabbed something to eat and had a long chat with the hostel manager there, Glen. That hostel was in a lighthouse (and Glen was incredibly handsome) which made the place memorable.

Finally, I got on the train toward Montreal where I would change for Winnipeg and there change again for Edmonton, my next stop. I didn't relish three nights on the train, but I had resolved to go coast to coast in Canada.

As a bonus, the weather for the return drive along the Gaspé Peninsula had been superb. If only the preceding days had been as good.

June 7

Campbellton, NB to Edmonton, AB

I enjoyed little sleep on the ride to Montreal. The train covered the same territory as the trip to Quebec City anyway. In Montreal I had to wait in the station for a brief layover and then joined the usual frenzy to board. It was very disappointing to find that the Montreal to Sudbury (Ontario) portion of the train wasn't the "fancy" cross continental one (with a dome car). We would change (again) in Sudbury for that. Even so, the "feeder" train traveled through lovely scenery along the Ottawa River Valley passing by a few large lakes. Canada is truly unspoiled and beautiful.

Unfortunately, there was a mother with five young kids (under five years of age) who were next to me and completely out of her control. Not fun - and I wondered why she thought she could handle the trip on her own (note: she couldn't). Finally, we arrived in Sudbury and switched to the "good" train. I secured a window seat and later enjoyed a spectacular sunset as well as the rising of the crescent moon.

In the lounge car I met an older Canadian guy, Doug, and we chatted for a few hours. He even bought me a drink (very kind). Due to sleeping so little, I found myself in one of those sleepless altered states for the initial part of the train ride. Eventually, my body gave in and I literally passed out.

The next morning we were greeted with rain as we passed along the northern shore of Lake Superior atop some huge cliffs. The scenery looked like Maine to me - parts of the Great Lakes appear more like seascape than lakeshore. I also found it hard to believe we were passing a lake as the horizon was only water.

The second dome car was for the "better" crowd of the train. The first dome car had been taken over by backpackers and was decidedly "downscale". After not showering for a day, I wasn't smelling too good either. ha!

June 12

The ride across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta turned out to be completely different than my expectations. There were gentle hills with many trees and rivers - not exciting, but far better than the endless cornfields of Nebraska. We had a change of equipment in Winnipeg - a different kind of train to travel across the mountains.

The train finally stopped in Edmonton and the family Gross (my ex-roommate in Japan's family) received me in my ragged state. Honestly, I felt embarrassed after not showering for two full days.

Edmonton, Alberta

David's family brought me to their very lovely, large house where I showered, took a nap, and ate a meal of steak. I had to admit - I loved the pampering. I slept soundly in their guest room.

The next day it rained (of course) a lot. We visited the West Edmonton Mall (the largest in the world at that time). Admittedly, my expectations were that it would be tacky and stupid. I was surprised how much fun I had. The roller coaster there was the best new-style ones I had ever ridden. The pool and the waterslides were absolutely huge. I understood immediately why it was so successful - what an enjoyable place to spend a full day. We enjoyed a great seafood lunch there, too. I thought that in the bleak Canadian winter, the mall would serve as a virtual oasis.

After "West Ed" we passed through the university and its accompanying hospital. The hospital (from the exterior) was definitely the most striking, modern facility I had ever seen. The campus is spread out with all new buildings - even its "old" buildings were not built that long ago. Near the university we passed through a neighborhood "Old Strathcona" - very lovely (and no doubt where most professors and doctors took residence).

We completed the day with a visit to the Space Science Center where we saw two IMAX movies (one on molecular structure - dull; another on motion & transportation - interesting). The complex reminded me of some of the pavilions from the Tsukuba Expo in Japan. I liked the it, but the pavilion was not extraordinary. I noted its grounds were well-laid out as were many in Edmonton.

Dinner was at a famous Jewish deli in the city (after eating in those of New York I was not impressed). Luckily, after dinner we visited David's sister's apartment where we watched some fireworks (I can't recall what they were for). They were unique in that they were fired in conjunction with the "waterfall" on one of the city bridges. Water streamed off the side of the bridge and was illuminated, changing colors matching the fireworks. The experience was unique in all my travels. For a mid-sized city, Edmonton has a nice skyline and with the faux-waterfall and fireworks, it made for a beautiful and memorable scene.

What a first day (rain not withstanding)! I again slept soundly in a nice bed.

The next day the rain continued, but we pressed on. We stopped at the Provincial Museum (a nicely done small place) which, like every other location in the city, has lovely grounds. Nearby is the Legislative Building set in a garden-type setting - also impressive. We arrived in time for the last tour and it turned out to be private in that it was just David's Mom, me, and the guide. On that tour (and the one of the Houses of Parliament in Ottawa) I was reminded how completely different the Canadian system of government is from the one south of the border. Honestly, all the "royal" connection stuff did not sit well with me (but the Canadians are proud of it). I assumed it was just my "cultural response" as an American, but at times I wondered if Canada truly is sovereign.

The last place we visited that day was Edmonton's most famous landmark, the Muttart Conservatory - a collection of glass pyramids set in the river valley serving as a botanical garden. The outdoor gardens and the architecture are superb - David had always talked about it in Japan, and he did not overstated the beauty of the place.

We ate lunch and finally the weather cleared. We traveled to the city's ski grounds which gave excellent views over downtown. We later drove to a theatre to buy tickets to the latest Indiana Jones flick (Last Crusade) to find they were sold out. We had to settle for "Hope and Glory". I wasn't into the film much as I was tired and David's mother made a running commentary throughout. We all felt exhausted by day's end.

My final full day in the city took us to Fort Edmonton, a recreation of Edmonton's history from the Hudson's Bay Trading Company (who established Fort Edmonton) until 1920. It included streets from 1885, 1905, and 1920 (which was still being built at that time). I found it tasteful and not overly commercial (at least not yet). The place was filled with actors who knew about the history of the person they were playing. The whole experience was informative and was lightyears better than anything similar I had seen in the US. We rode in a restored steam engine and sat in the cab with the engineer because David's father knew him (what luck!). We followed that with a trip on a restored streetcar. Once again we had a full day and returned to the house exhausted.

That evening David's parents ordered Chinese takeaway as cooking was out of the question. We relaxed the remainder of the day and talked about Edmonton as well David and my adventures in Japan (and trip to China). David's parents were extremely kind to me and I appreciated it deeply. David's mother was a forceful person, but we hit it off well (I am happy that the opposite didn't happen - and it could have). His father was kind, but appeared desperately bored in retirement. He often rambled during conversations, but the man was filled with interesting information.

David and his parents are rightfully proud of Edmonton. Edmonton blew my expectations out of the water, but to be fair my hosts were excellent and allowed me to do much more than I would have as a solo traveler. David and his sister were completely overindulged growing up, yet the David I knew in Japan was grounded. In fact, he and his mother shared so many idiosyncracies I often had to stifle a chuckle. Their daughter didn't turn out as well as David - she showed all the signs of being spoiled, but I politely ignored her. Edmonton was a complete surprise - a beautiful city filled with parks along a river. After Toronto, I think it was the best city of the trip to that point (even better than Quebec City).

On my final day we stayed at home and relaxed. I prepared for my onward journey. In the afternoon I was driven to the train station and bid a grateful farewell to David's parents. They had been extraordinarily hospitable and generous.

Edmonton, AB to Jasper to Prince Rupert, BC

The train progressed through hills, forests, lakes, and farms. The scenery (and weather) were lovely. The mountains loomed in the distance - it promised to be an incredible experience.

However,

the mountains appeared to take "forever" to come. Slowly, as we journeyed along the Athabasca River Valley, the mountains began to appear as a great wall rather than a series of slowly ascending foothills. Entering the Canadian Rockies was one of the grandest mountain entrances I ever experienced. The train first climbed out of the valley and then slowly descended to the river where it followed its course all the way to Jasper. The sun bounced off the mountain peaks in the late day - each bend in the river appeared more beautiful than the last.

Finally, we arrived in Jasper. The town is tiny and completely swallowed up by the surrounding mountains. I had time to kill before my connecting train to Prince Rupert. After some initial disorientation, I chose a path toward the river and started walking. Eventually I reached the riverbank and watched the torrent flow by dangerously swiftly. At a bridge, I crossed over and climbed a hill that provides an overlook of the town and mountains. The beauty of the scene of the late day sun shining on the mountains was unspeakably gorgeous.

I met three tile-setters and spoke to them as I admired the view. For me, it looked as good as photos I had seen of the Snake River below the Grand Tetons. I definitely wanted to return to Jasper one day. However, I was not overnighting and needed to return to the station. Unfortunately, upon arrival I found the train was delayed two hours - I could have stayed at the viewpoint longer. No worries though... I was happy to watch the late day twilight descend over the town and mountains. Such places restore a person's soul on beautiful days.

June 14

Then started the nightmare. The train simply never came. Those of us waiting had a choice of taking a replacement bus OR staying a hotel. Everyone opted for the bus out of fear the train might not come at all: many of us were already worried about our onward ferry connection in Prince Rupert. The bus ride was a disaster, too. Greyhound was supposed to accept our VIA rail tickets, but Greyhound was never informed. We argued the point with the driver the entire journey to Prince George. There we finally transferred to the train.

Although the bus ride to Prince George was lightening fast, the train onward to the coast was excruciatingly slow. The most surprising thing about the ride was how many people lived in that great expanse between Prince George and Prince Rupert. I expected the interior of British Columbia was going to be "empty".

On the bus I had met two Swiss women, Erika and Charlotte, as well as a native of Prince Rupert, Dave. Dave explained a lot about the town and the ferry system to us, so meeting him was extremely fortuitous. He also helped us find a cheap hotel later in Prince Rupert and a decent place to eat. The ride became interesting closer to the coast where the road and rails follow the Skeena River. It had started raining, but the views were still spectacular. It felt more like a fjord than a valley with lofty peaks dropping directly into the river. After all those frustrations, we arrived in Prince Rupert.

Dave's recommendation for food was excellent and the hotel was clean and basic. We all slept soundly I was certain. The morning brought sunshine and a taxi soon whisked us all to the ferry terminal. We boarded the boat - the next leg of our journey along the great inland fjords of Northwestern Canada. I traded VIA Rail for BC Ferries.

Prince Rupert to Port Hardy, British Columbia

That portion of the journey was to be a highlight of the trip - down through the narrow passages between the many islands and lofty peaks of Pacific British Columbia. The first few hours of the ride were spectacular, but then things clouded over. Even in the rain the ride was amazing. At times the channel narrows so that it feels more like a river valley than the sea. The mountains are very tall and snowcapped while green hills rise on both sides of the ship. We passed many fishing boats and the occasional freighter. The experience not only met but exceeded my expectations. The scenery was stunning, and the shipboard atmosphere, light and affable. Everyone was in a good mood - who wouldn't be in such a beautiful place?

Looking ahead, I considered taking the night bus to Nanaimo (that connects with the ferry) rather than pay yet another expensive hotel (in places with only one, that is usually the case).

June 15

The weather worsened, but the journey remained spectacular. In the small stretches of open sea, the boat rolled a lot and I recalled my sea sickness of the past. Luckily, I had improved a lot. I met a guy, Steven. He, another guy, and I had beers at the ship's bar (the ferry was huge) to while away the afternoon. We became fast chums and Steven offered to drive me down the island to Courtenay the day after we arrived to catch the train, but we had to spend the night in his tent.

Against my better judgement I agreed. It was clear Steven saw me and had one thing in mind (a sentiment I didn't share).

Port Hardy to Victoria, British Columbia

Finally the ship arrived at Port Hardy and we waited a very long time for our bags. Steven (with a car) and I drove down the lonely highway that eventually ends at Victoria. I was trying to put a positive spin on a bad situation - I was on Vancouver Island, one of the most beautiful places in Canada.

We arrived to a campground he knew and pitched the tent. It was 1:00am, everything was wet, and we attempted to make a fire - not easy. We were both tired and Steven made his move, but I feigned ignorance. The man had a pierced nipple and a leather jockstrap - I had to internally roll my eyes. I actually slept little - both worried about Steven and feeling incredibly cold (it was supposed to be summer). The ground was also hard and uncomfortable, but I managed a few hours of rest.

The next morning we went through the "fire ritual" once again. It made me realize how "soft" most humans are in the modern world. We barely could start a fire from scratch given all the tools necessary. We had coffee that Steven made, broke camp, and merrily set off for Courtenay. The mountain scenery of Vancouver Island was not exaggerated. We passed by snowy peaks with deep lakes beneath them. Unbelievably, the island is being logged and some clearcut places ruined incredible vistas. It felt tragic, but then again - society needs wood.

The road was empty for miles. On either side towered cedars with ferns and moss growing beneath them lining the highway. It was beautiful. Then - car problems befell us. Ugh.

After a series of starts and stops, we luckily found a service station. Steven was informed it was the crankshaft and that we might make it to Campbell River. We had no option but to continue. The car died just two miles short of the train station. Luckily, a couple we had seen in the hotel back in Prince Rupert (also on the ferry) stopped to help. Jenny & Rich's truck was subsequently loaded with all of Steven's stuff (and my backpack) with a lot of effort. I couldn't help but think he was pushing it with some very kind people who stopped to help. He was taking advantage of their kind nature and quite "demanding" of them.

After everything was loaded we started out (again). I discovered Jenny was also a Georgetown grad just a few years after me. We knew many of the same people - surprisingly, many of them Puerto Rican. She had studied in SFS and became quickly disillusioned - ending up in Seattle and British Columbia planting tree seedlings. She was fully into the conservation movement - borderline radical. I didn't care though. She was kind and it was nice to discover some GU grads had opted out of the government/corporate track. Jenny and I discussed our studies and then about logging in the Pacific Northwest until we reached Campbell River. I learned a lot.

At Campbell River Steven was supposed to rent a car, however, without a credit card that was not possible. He then found a friend further south with whom he could store his stuff (including a kayak about which he was extremely concerned). So we all continued on to Courtenay where I hoped we would "beat the clock" and arrive before the once-daily train departure. I did not want to pay for another hotel if possible. Luckily, we made it in time for me to get on the train. I immediately continued on to Victoria feeling completely exhausted.

Steven offered his place in Victoria, but I honestly didn't think he would make it back. I was ready for a hostel bed and a good night's rest. I bade everyone farewell and boarded the tiny two-carriage train south.

June 16

The train to Victoria was mildly disappointing after the road trip from Port Hardy. We had left the views of the majestic mountains and forests, The ride was still pleasant but mostly unending views of forest with occasional glimpses of the mountains or the sea. Finally, we arrived in Victoria. Thank God the hostel was near the station. I checked in and showered immediately. The journey from Prince Rupert through the sea and then across Vancouver island had ended (I was glad). All other things aside, it was one of the best parts of the whole trip.

Victoria, British Columbia

I had heard about Victoria for years from work colleagues and fellow travelers. I looked forward to exploring it. In the hostel I met some Japanese guys and we talked about their travels. One of them joined me for Chinese food at dinner. He was interesting because of how atypical he was among Japanese travelers at that time - highly individual. After dinner I took photos around the Inner Harbor at sunset, gorgeous scenery. Back at the hostel I met Charlotte again (who had taken the bus from Port Hardy). She told me that Steven actually made it back to Victoria (by bus). I wondered if I should call him or not. I did call BP & VP in Vancouver and told them I would come on either Saturday or Sunday depending on how my travels panned out in Victoria. As night fell, I took photos of the Parliament Buildings which were illuminated beautifully. Then I slept, I had a whole day in Victoria ahead.

The following day, I woke up to sunshine (such a rare commodity).

June 17

I met Charlotte & Erika in the morning and we agreed that an unstructured day in the city would be nice. We lounged around the hostel in the morning and then headed downtown. We stopped by the famous Empress Hotel lobby (beautiful, like the Raffles in Singapore - maybe better) and then took a tour of the Parliament Buildings. The tour was informative but the guide gave off the vibe of "I work on Parliament Hill - I am important". He was a little too officious.

After the tour we walked to Beacon Hill Park and its lovely beach giving views over the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A beautiful rocky coastline there provides excellent views of the sea and the far away mountains (we could see them occasionally through the clouds). We explored tidal pools on the beach and I laughed at Charlotte & Erika over their excitement. They said it was their first time to really explore such a place and one of their first trips to the real "ocean". The park itself was expansive and well-maintained with huge trees, scattered ponds, and flowers throughout. Beacon Hill Park was the best public park I visited on the trip to that point.

Our return took us via the Totem Pole Park (interesting, but touristic). From there we walked the length of Government Street, the main shopping area of the city. We found a cafe and relaxed along the waterfront as we waited for the hostel doors to re-open (like many places it closed in the mid-afternoon). We enjoyed a fabulous afternoon. Victoria truly was as good as everyone described.

Back at the hostel, I relented and called Steven. He had been kind to me after all. He picked me up from the hostel and took me to his place where he made a delicious salmon dinner for me and his roommate. We had an excellent time, but honestly the man was all about being gay - I was traveling, not clubbing. We drove back into town via Mt Tolmie Park. Under the moonlight we saw the city, the strait, the snowcapped Olympic Mountain Range, and distant Mt. Baker, rising Fuji-like (but pointy and taller) on the horizon. That turned out to be one of the most memorable scenes from the entire trip. I wished Brian were with me - he was missing out on a lot.

After returning to town, we hit two bars (both of which I had walked by with Erika & Charlotte unknowingly). The first was classified as "mixed" behind the Parliament Building. I didn't like it much - it felt uncomfortable for some reason. I was in shock that a place as large as Victoria had only one official "gay bar" and it was not even that - it was mixed. Then we went to a dance bar, Rumors, located just around the corner from the hostel. I found it very small (and pretty dull). Ultimately, I was grateful Steven took me to both for the "experience factor", but I was also happy we didn't stay a long time in either. I wasn't in the proper mood for going out (and neither place was that good anyway).

I had called VP from Steven's place and let her know that I would arrive in Vancouver around 5:30pm the following night. She said she was cooking a big dinner for her parents for Father's Day. As I had met her parents in Japan (lovely people), I looked forward to seeing them again. It promised to be a good time.

June 20

Victoria to Tsawassen, British Columbia

The next day I mostly relaxed and prepared for the boat journey to the mainland. It turned out I had to take a bus out of town to Swartz Bay to catch the boat (not what I had planned - I thought it left from Victoria Harbor). The ride itself was beautiful, but mostly through open water without the beautiful views of the earlier ferry from Prince Rupert. I expected more, actually. Mostly, I was focused on meeting B & V, old friends from Sendai days. It was to be the highlight of the trip.

Vancouver, British Columbia

The bus ride up from the Tsawassen Terminal was fast and easy. BP picked me up at the bus stop and. as we drove to his place, I realized that the bus had actually passed right in front of their house. They were living in a large basement apartment - they gave me a place to sleep and get settled. We happily caught up with each other after years of not meeting, and then VP's parents came for a turkey dinner (which included a lot more conversation). It felt good to be with people I actually knew after days of interacting with strangers and new friends. I called my old friend from Japan days, James, and agreed to meet him the following day. I also called an old Gallaudet friend S and made similar arrangements. It turned out I knew a lot of people in Vancouver!

The next day (Sunday) was a mixed weather day of sunshine, clouds, and rain - repeatedly. B and I walked to Queen Elizabeth Park - it was beautiful. That was followed up by a trip to Chinatown where we ate "real" dim sum. After that, B drove around the city and gave me a "highlights tour". Stanley Park impressed me greatly. What was a surprise was finding that some of Vancouver was run-down (it has "bad parts", like all cities). I had seen so much beauty; in such a perfect place could anything bad exist? Yes, of course.

We drove to the City Museum for me to learn about the history of Vancouver. The place was small, but incredibly informative. Later in the day, we visited B's parents' house for some beers on their terrace. They enjoyed a view of downtown, the mountains, and the harbor - literally a million dollar view. Wow! Finally, we returned to B&V's place and after more conversation (we had a lot to catch up on), I slept.

The following day after a slow start, I set off to explore downtown on foot. I saw the stadium as well as some Expo leftovers. I thought that the Expo site had incredible potential to be one of the most beautiful locations in the city. I passed through glass towers, atriums, and malls - repeatedly until I reached Canada Place. That particular Expo leftover became the city's cruise port terminal/convention center. Its bold architecture is stunning, in the perfect location capitalizing on views of the harbor and mountains. After passing by the edge of Chinatown, I walked through Gastown - Vancouver's version of Greenwich Village. Honestly, compared to everything else I had seen, that part of the city didn't impress me. There I came across homeless people almost everywhere - it was shocking.

I crossed over to Granville Island (through a bad part of town) which was being developed from its industrial past into boutiques and shops. I spotted a local brewery there (in the days before micro-breweries were in) and decided to return if I had time. I continued to Davie Street which was supposedly the heart of gay Vancouver - it was so low-key I wasn't even sure I was in the right place.

I called James again to set up a meeting time for later that day. The number of homeless people and the percent of people living as vagrants continued to shock me. Equally surprising was how much of the population was very "red neck" and rough around the edges. In spite of Vancouver's fairy-tale beauty, I discovered a lot that wasn't so nice, too. B&V were somewhat to resigned to Vancouver's underside as something they had to tolerate.

After many years, I met up with James that evening. He hadn't changed at all since our time in Japan. We also had a lot of catching up to do and agreed to meet again if possible. Although James was a good friend in Japan, I found his Euro-gay style to be jarring and out of place. He dropped me at the "Club Vancouver" as he could not stay out late that night. I had a good time, but my heart wasn't in it. I missed Brian a lot and would have preferred if he were with me. I stayed out a long time anyway and came back to the house late. I was tired and slept well. The next day I would be catching up with S from Gallaudet (which will be another big session).

June 25

The next day I walked to Stamps Landing along False Creek and then returned to Granville Island. The area is filled with waterfront condos and newly developed parkland. Vancouver made a great success of redeveloping the area. Restaurants, art markets, and the brewery all make it a great destination. I loved the "micro" brewery especially (note: at that time almost unknown in the US). While enjoying a beer I met a woman who had grown up in Washington Heights - such a small world moment. The brewery tour was informative and included information about Granville's redevelopment. The island was purposely created as a space for artists to have live-in studios. The neighborhood is served by water taxis so residents can easily travel to other points in Vancouver (which is, at heart, a water-city). I noted floating homes along the shore as well - wow. Overall, Granville Island impressed me greatly. It felt like the perfect place to live in Vancouver (if a person had money).

I returned home before evening to change and get ready to meet S. She came to fetch me in her car. When we finally met (after several years), it felt wonderful. I had forgotten what a wonderful person she is. She drove me through Richmond and then to Steveston so I could see her "turf". Admittedly, not as wow as Vancouver, she was still happy to show it to me. We continued onto her home where I met her fiance, R. R was extremely well-traveled and I liked him immediately. He was in the midst of a meeting of an "outdoor deaf club", so S and I sat in another room and talked (for a long time). We caught up on so many things - it was great. For dinner, they prepared moose chili. It tasted fantastic, not gamey at all. We made plans to meet again on Friday for dinner and then S brought me home.

The next day (Wednesday) I took the Vancouver Skytrain to New Westminster to see its famous market on the Frasier River. The Skytrain felt sleek and modern. The market was pleasant, but not extraordinary. On the waterfront I boarded a sea-bus for a beautiful (and somewhat futuristic) ferry ride across Burrard Inlet to North Vancouver. My destination was Lonsdale Quay - beautifully situated, but less appealing than New Westminster. Lonsdale Quay was completely given over to tourism. The best part of the trip was the view it provided of the Vancouver skyline. I took another ferry (I loved all the transport options) back to downtown and stopped at Club Vancouver (again). I actually met some genuinely interesting people on that second visit. Then I returned to B&V's to prepare myself for a journey to Whistler with Bill the following day. He had very kindly rearranged his work schedule to take me into the mountains.

June 26

The trip to Whistler was incredible. We started by crossing the Lion's Gate Bridge, like Vancouver's mini-Golden Gate (I was convinced it looked "flimsy"). After that the road paralleled the Howe Sound - the views were some of the best of the trip to that point. We stopped by Shannon Falls (a small Niagara) and Brandywine Falls (the Canadian version of Yosemite) - both were gorgeous. We made a stop at the BC mining museum - one of the best industrial museums I ever visited. We were able to ride old coal cars deep into the mountain to get a real sense in what conditions the miners worked - not for the claustrophobic.

Our long drive through the mountains finally ended at Whistler with its countless ski slopes (and shops). Even in summer the trendy place was bustling. We splurged on an overly expensive beer and sat in the sun taking it the cosmopolitan atmosphere (ha!). On the return drive we stopped many times for me to take photos - the whole area is so beautiful it was hard to find any single viewpoint that was better than the last.

We arrived in Vancouver later than expected. After picking up Val we ate at a tapas restaurant for yet more delicious food. Back at B&V's place we all had a few more beers and finally went to sleep. The day trip to Whistler was the best day in Vancouver and one of the best of the entire trip.

The following day was Friday and I went off to explore Wreck Beach below the University of British Columbia campus. The place was famous for clothing optional sunbathing, but mostly I was attracted by its massive trees under the cliffs beside the sea. There were trails everywhere and many people walking (in a variety of states of undress). I ended up spending most of the day there and receiving a bad sunburn even though I was mostly under forest cover. The part of Wreck Beach that was supposedly gay was a huge shock - it was one of the most in-my-face nudist beaches I ever visited. I met a friendly guy there, Chris, who gave me a ride back to B&V's house. My sunburn was very bad - should never have taken off my shirt, but there was no time to think about it. I had to get ready to meet S&R.

They picked me up and we had Japanese food - it tasted completely authentic. For dessert we got DQ blizzards and ate them as we watched the sun set over the Burrard Inlet. Slowly the lights flickered on across Vancouver City. The scene was gorgeous. As we watched the sun set, S&R suggested we go boating the following day. I quickly agreed.

Unfortunately, the next day the weather was far too windy, so we drove to the aquarium in Stanley Park instead. I loved the set up and had one of my most unique animal experiences in all my travels. The killer whales were in heat and mating - fascinating stuff. After the regular show got cancelled due to the animals being restless (manic actually), we watched the scene unfold in the glass-walled pool beneath the seats. The trainers were "nervous" but still allowed us to view them up close. Several guests were soaked by the randy splashing of those sea mammals. We continued to North Vancouver to visit the Cleveland Dam for a picnic. The scenery was stunning along the Capilano River Valley. I felt like Vancouver had endless beautiful parks to enjoy.

friendly belugas

My friends returned me to B&V's house so I could rush off to B's parents' place again. The food, the drinks, the company - all with that killer view made for an amazing evening. I simply ate too much - I could barely function. Bill wanted to keep going, but my sunburn from earlier in the day was extremely painful - I just requested to go to bed.

The next day was the last in Vancouver and the train was leaving late in the day which allowed for me to spend more time with B&V. Since we had nearly a full day, B&V and I took a long drive out of Vancouver to see a park. The drive was long (but lovely) - we finally arrived Belcarra Park, a scenic inlet off Burrard Inlet. The place was beautiful, but there were gobs of visitors. We walked inland to the lovely Sasamat Lake (part of the park). Its alpine setting reminded me of Hallstatt, Austria - just less developed.

I had taken my bag in the car, so after returning to Vancouver, B&V drove me to the train station directly. We said our goodbyes and I thanked them for what was the best part of the trip. I loved Vancouver! B&V watched me through the window as the train pulled out for my long journey back to New York City. The long train literally crept out of the station due to ongoing trackwork near the station.

Vancouver, BC to Banff, AB

After some time, the rails enter the realm of spectacular scenery which continue until we reached Banff. Mt Baker came into view - it cuts a lovely shape on the horizon. After that, the train follows the Frazier River Valley, again, impossibly gorgeous. The ride was different from what I expected, but provided non-stop views (in the daylight). Unfortunately, night fell and then I had to endure another uncomfortable (and mostly sleepless) night on a hard VIA Rail seat. At least I had several days in Vancouver sleeping on a decent bed.

When I woke, we were in the Columbia River Valley. Steep valleys and sheer cliffs closed in on the train deep in BC's mountainous interior. The peaks towered above us as the train crept (literally) into the Rocky Mountains via a series of river valleys. Of course, we passed through numerous tunnels, the most impressive being at Rogers' Pass (Mt Macdonald Tunnel - 9 miles).

I ended up meeting some of the Japanese guys from the Victoria Youth Hostel on the train. That wasn't too surprising since many people had similar itineraries. I interacted with a few other Japanese and Canadians as well. The ride was beautiful, but painfully slow (and long). I looked forward to Banff (and a shower).

June 26

The train ride continued to be beautiful (especially in the area of Lake Louise and Banff). My train-mates were a jolly crew - which helped. Although it was raining in Lake Louise, when we arrived in Banff it was not (thank God). I got off the train and with many of the other guys, headed toward the youth hostel (My original play to stay at the YMCA was scuttled - it had closed years earlier). We arrived at the hostel just before it started to rain. The hostel was modern and new - quite acceptable. The rain, unfortunately, squashed everyone's outdoor plans. My first impression of Banff was that its setting is more beautiful than Jasper (but Jasper's is still "grand").

June 28

Banff

The location of the youth hostel (far from the station) immediately impacted my plans. The YMCA would have been far more convenient. I arrived with some others from the train to secure rooms and we discovered it was very full (we were lucky). Of course, it started to rain (nonstop). In the room while we waited for clear weather, I got to know some of the other guys.

One, Andrew (from the UK) and I ended up hitting it off. We spent a lot of time together in Banff. We also met Jo from Germany and Andre from Quebec. After it finally stopped raining, the the four of us hiked to the nearby "hoodoos", not far from the hotel. There were only two of them (strangely eroded pillars of stone), so we felt disappointed. However, the views over the mountain valley (even cloudy) from the area were gorgeous. We returned to Banff satisfied we had done something positive after all the rain.

Andrew was fretting about find a job - he was on a working-holiday visa. We all accompanied him to an interview for moral support. Later we shopped at Safeway for dinner and cooked together back at the hostel. Andrew and I walked into town later for some very cheap (and very watered-down) beer at "Cascade". We talked (and drank) a lot. Andrew was only 18 and experiencing a lot of culture shock. I felt sorry for him.

The following day I realized that I had miscalculated my remaining time and I had to leave Banff a full day earlier in order to remain within my rail pass and make it back to New York (and work) on time. That meant I had only one full day left in Banff. I decided to splurge and rent a car so I could explore the area as quickly as possible. Andrew, Jo, Andre, and two women from Toronto joined me. We drove via the Johnston Canyon (beautiful) to Lake Louise. It was a little cloudy, but still did not disappoint. After that, we stopped at Moraine Lake - it was jaw-droppingly beautiful and sunny (it appears on the back of the Canadian $20 bill). For me, it was the most beautiful moment of the entire trip. All of us were greatly impressed. I noted the two women remained somewhat distant in conversation the whole day, but they were polite.

We returned to Banff tired, but satisfied. Andrew and I stopped at Safeway again and I make us a cheap dinner of mac & cheese with tuna. Of course, that left money to return the bar we went the day before! In fact, we started our night at Melissa's (the in place), but it was too expensive for us to drink more than a beer, so we returned to Cascade. The bar was rowdier than the previous evening as there was a drinking special on (40 cent beer!). The contrast between Melissa's and Cascade could not have been greater. I found myself getting attached to Andrew. He was very sweet, too young, and completely clueless. I worried about his ability to make it in Canada on his own.

As for Banff, it has a spectacular location - the mountains feel much closer than they do in Jasper. I could understand why people raved about Banff. It looked like a film set.

The following day I was leaving. Andrew and I didn't do much in the morning. I returned the rental car and then we stopped at Safeway (again). I needed food for the upcoming journey. Finally, it was time to say goodbye and start the long trip back.

Banff to Toronto

The train arrived almost on time. I boarded and in less than one hour we were out of the Rockies. The mountains end just as abruptly as they do farther north near Jasper - like a snowcapped wall. I was back on the Great Plains. They changed from hilly closer to the mountains to pancake flat as we approached Calgary. Even though I love mountains, the prairies can be beautiful, too. Too much of anything renders it dull.

I knew that I had a lot of flat land to cross and because I had not budgeted time for Calgary (which I regretted - it was just a mistake of planning), I was doing Banff to Toronto to New York in one go. Yikes! The train stop in Calgary didn't allow me to de-train which was a shame because it was right in the middle of the city under Calgary Tower.

I met some French guys on the train (Jean-Pierre and Eric). They were traveling between Calgary and Medicine Hat for a six-week agricultural exchange. I remember their relief to find someone who could speak French (their English was almost non-existent) and their shock that I was American. I didn't have the heart to tell them that in Medicine Hat, Alberta, their chance of finding French speakers would be very low. I ended up spending a few nice hours with them.

June 29

After the French guys got off the train, I met Sabine and Rolf from Germany. We hung out together in the dome car watching the unending flatness of the prairies pass by. Finally we reached Winnipeg where I was faced with another nightmarish VIA rail experience. The connecting train was delayed by six hours!

We all got off to walk around downtown Winnipeg (all I wanted was a shower). We saw the provincial capitol building with its lovely grounds since it was near the station. Luckily, we met a local woman who toured us around the small downtown. It should have been more enjoyable, but I was worried about my connection back to New York with the delay. I had to be in Montreal by Saturday morning. As we crossed Ontario, I could only think about making back on time.

June 30

The conductor updated me and said we would arrive in Montreal at 4:00am. I thought that I would be a corpse by the time I arrived at Penn Station, New York. The ride was really beginning to feel tedious, like the end of a very long flight. I felt hungry for some "real" food, too. The train only provided fast-food snacks.

Rolf and Sabine were good company, but we all felt cranky and tired. As we rounded the cliffs above Lake Superior it was cloudy and rainy (again). Shit. Nothing was relieving the tedium.

July 1

Endless Ontario gave way to Quebec. I finally arrived at Montreal Station at 4:55am. The train to New York was at 8:00am. I made very sleepy goodbyes to my train friends as they went to explore Montreal. I felt envious - but I was so done with trains. I finally boarded the Montrealer south to New York. The ride there was just a blur. We arrived at Penn Station that night. It was still a long ride on the A train back to 181st Street.

Final Thoughts

After traveling the length of Canada mostly by train and meeting old friends (and making new ones), I found myself better informed about the country. Yet, I also was equally confused by some things I had learned. I left Canada with the firm conviction that in order for the country to solve most of its ills, the people must first answer his question: "What does it mean to be a Canadian?"

Note: for such an epic journey I didn't stay in touch with any of the "new" travel friends I made. Additionally, I never met up with S&R nor James again after that. Brian and I visited B&V on a later trip to Vancouver. Andrew actually came to New York in the fall and stayed with Brian and me, but it appeared he thought he could stay with us "long term". After a few days, I had to ask him to move along (Brian was studying for law school - our house was serious). I felt sad about it, but our apartment was simply not large enough for long-term guests. We never kept in contact.