Diamond Jubilee: William Penn Hotel, Pittsburgh

June 2021

Built from 1915 to 1916, the $6 million William Penn opened on March 11, 1916, in what newspapers hailed as the Grandest Hotel in the nation, its first night it hosted the annual Pittsburgh Chamber of Commerce Gala and was recorded as the largest gala in city history up to that time with U.S. Secretary of State Philander Knox hosting the event. The original hotel covered the western half of the block, facing Mellon Square.

(Wikipedia)

I was in a daze. I was traveling again after a 1.5 year break, and it wasn't pleasant. We had to wear masks on the train and being in that close environment (even though COVID cases were in steep decline) with strangers was a little freaky. I had only been with family until that time - most of my contacts with strangers were extremely limited and in open spaces.

My strongest memory of the journey is the announcement of the famous "horseshoe curve" in Western Pennsylvania, an engineering marvel of its time. Honestly, my only thought was that someone should invest in tunneling machines and make the journey faster. It was 2021 not 1854. The Japanese have literally been tunneling miles of straight lines through mountains for the last 50 years. How much faster would the trip be across Pennsylvania if the rails were "straight"? The train ride was beautiful to be sure - it was also unnecessarily long.

The train arrived on time and the light was waning. I felt little nervous arriving in the city (first time!) at dusk, but the hotel was a short walk away. If Pittsburgh ever had a grand train station, it is long gone. I couldn't believe the entry into one of Pennsylvania's most important cities. Confused, I followed everyone down a long (dirty) corridor and suddenly we were out on the street. No grand lobby, no organized taxi queues - just some random exit door. How bizarre!

I found my bearings and walked quickly to the hotel.

I normally could never afford to stay at the William Penn, but during COVID hotel rooms were deeply discounted and I figured I wouldn't get the chance again. That was a great decision. The lobby was grand (and totally empty). I breathed a sigh of relief. I should have gone straight to bed because I had an early morning departure, but I didn't. I had to have at least one drink in that lobby to toast the start of my voyage. In a harbinger of much of the trip, I sat in one of America's finest hotel lobbies alone and sipped a G&T. I would be 60 in a month - let the celebration begin!

After a short walk around the lobby, I returned to the room and collapsed into bed (and noted the wonderful view from my window). It really was a nice hotel room.

The next morning I had a hard time finding a coffee shop that was open for breakfast - but I managed. Another frustration of travel during the latter months of COVID was just how closed up the world had become. I checked out quickly, feeling sad I had rushed through my stay at such a beautiful old hotel.

I walked to the bus station (adjacent to the train). I had bought my ticket online (thank God - there was no agent in the station. Some people arrived and were completely frustrated). I noted with sadness that bus travel in America had not changed since my youth and the waiting room was filled with those who had fallen through the cracks of society. It was probably the low point of the trip (luckily it happened at the beginning).

The driver scanned the QR code from my phone and I boarded. Next stop - Cleveland.