Dominican Republic: A trip to Isla Saona

Because I was based in Santo Domingo (my choice), I wanted to take at least one trip into the countryside to get a better flavor for the country. I met a travel agent on the first day who went over a range of possible day trips. I settled on Isla Saona, part of a national park near the famous resort city of La Romana. Because it was a long drive (two hours) and then a boat ride (an hour and a half), the tour started at 6:00am.

We all met in Parque Colon in the old city center. Until all people were verified and checked in, it was 6:30am. We boarded an old minibus with non-functioning AC (the morning was cool at least). The sky was just lighting up over the Caribbean and the highway follows the sea closely for the first part of the trip. The sky changed colors dramatically as I missed morning coffee.

We discovered we were picking up other passengers along the way (one in a string of such "discoveries"); however, since it allowed seeing other parts of the country, I wasn't too fussed. In fact, our first stop was at the local beach resort, Boca Chica, near the airport. As a bonus I got to see what that hotel area and beach look like. Interestingly, close to the water, the "old" part of town is not that great (but the beach looks nice); however, the newer town up the hill is very modern and pleasant (and a short walk to the beach). Boca Chica is the closest beach resort to Santo Domingo and can get very crowded.

We continued on and made two more stops for passengers. Luckily, the final stop doubled as a "rest stop" so we could get some breakfast (everyone had missed it due to waking so early). The food and coffee choices were dreadful (it was a highway rest stop), but we all just needed something in our stomachs. I felt appreciative even if the coffee was sweet Nescafe with powdered milk and the croissant, a piece of normal bread in that shape.

Finally, the passenger list was complete. We discovered our tour guide Victor spoke English and French. His English was accented, but we understood him. His French sounded like French spoken in a 100% Spanish accent - I wondered if the French passengers understood him?

Our destination was Bayahibe where we would catch a "party boat" to the island. I was excited to see the town because it is the up-and-coming resort area closest to La Romana. The place appears to be one huge construction site just out of town (mostly condos). Close to the harbor, the old town has a one-block long main street that is extremely down to earth. I liked it but wondered what it would be like to stay there for a long time? Not many options for food and/or entertainment.

When we arrived at the harbor I just thought "wow"....

Bayahibe Port

Lots and lots of other tour groups were arriving from everywhere. The scene was chaotic. We boarded a small boat (thinking it was the boat to the island - we were all deflated) only to find it was the transfer boat to a large catamaran offshore. In five minutes we were on a bigger vessel with a sail (and bar and toilet). As with the surprise bus stops on the way, the overall feeling of the group was one of having no idea what was happening the entire day - nothing was explained in advance. We are stopping here; get off the bus; get on the bus; follow me; take this boat; now get on another boat... That feeling of ??? continued the entire day. It reminded me of the early days of tours in Indonesia.

The boat followed the coast closely on our way to the first stop - a famous beach for swimming.

We enjoyed unlimited drinks on board (alcoholic and non alcoholic) plus water. The guide and crew warned us not to get drunk (prudent for people who would swim later) and then immediately plied us with alcohol, appearing disappointed few were drinking. As it was morning and we had little food in our stomachs, not drinking seemed the best option. The boat blared party music as people shook off their early morning torpor. It would have been a lot more fun when I was younger, but.... the views were incredibly scenic. No need to do anything in such a place but feast with the eyes. The thump thump thump in the background didn't matter.

We passed by Dominicus, Bayahibe's twin, which has beautiful beaches (and lots of development). The main benefit of that area is the hotels are "normal" and not "all-inclusive" (as they are in nearby Punta Cana). For people who want the beach but do not want to stay in just one location, Bayahibe and Dominicus appear to be good alternatives.

After less than an hour, we came up upon a collection of boats over a light colored patch in the sea (far from the beach). This was the "natural swimming pool", an area of very shallow water (only about 3-4 feet) where everyone except small kids could get off the boat and enjoy the water (even if they were poor swimmers). The downside was that it was a stop for many tours and the "natural pool" was loaded with people.

People had a great dip (the water didn't look too clear to me - I gave it a pass) and returned to the boat in good moods. Alcohol consumption started.

Note: I continue to be amazed at what people wear to swim that is not flattering for their age or shape. I am not shaming anyone - but let's all keep in mind other people must look at us. One of the crew had a body like a Greek god in onyx. With such a physique he should have worn the skimpiest speedo yet, because he was local, he mostly covered up. The irony ...

Between La Romana and Punta Cana, a peninsula juts into the Caribbean. The bottom portion is Cotubanamá National Park and at its tip is the beautiful Isla Saona, ringed with white sand beaches and palm trees. No one lives there - the government has permitted pavilions, small shops, and restrooms to be constructed for public use. Our tour company rented a few pavilions for food/drink service. The boat arrived to a group of catamarans already moored offshore. Again we had to "transfer" to the beach (which took time).

The beach was ridiculously beautiful.

February 2026.

Lunch was served cafeteria style and the wait was long - what else can be expected when a bunch of people arrive at once? We were starving. The food was incredibly unremarkable, but then again - I didn't care. I just wanted to eat something and set off to explore the island.

I took two walks up and down the beach in each direction. It didn't take long to leave the "day tripper zone" and find a stretch of beach with no people. The island is a tropical paradise - glorious.

The crew had three dedicated photographers who took photos of us relentlessly. On the island they then quickly edited them and displayed them on tablets - making the rounds to all of us. Although some people purchased them, I wondered why tour companies insisted on such things with everyone owning a cell phone with a good camera these days. It seemed like a big investment in equipment and personnel with little return.

The beautiful day at the beach could not, however, last forever.

We all knew we faced a long trip back to Santo Domingo: transfer to the main boat, sail to Bayahibe, transfer to the shore, walk to the bus (it was not allowed at the port), and finally drop all the passengers back in the reverse order. After we got on the bus, we were presented with bottles of bark for making our own "Mamajuana" (just add honey and alcohol) - a traditional Dominican drink. Of course, they weren't free. Finding out who wanted a bottle and who did not (they had put our photos on them - candids taken by the crew on the catamaran) took a long time. Everyone felt tired. We were originally told we would arrive in Santo Domingo by 6pm and we were only leaving Bayahibe at that time.

We dropped the first group at their very nice hotel in a resort development. It was getting late so they put another family in a van and sent them separately (we appreciated it). The bus slowly dropped more people and then even our guide got off just before the city. Finally, we stopped under the stairs to the old city - we were back at 8:15pm after having gathered at the square at 6:00am. It was simply too long even if the tour had been fantastic.

I had a cup of good coffee before heading back to the room. I needed good coffee and I needed a jolt to bring me to life after the long boat/bus ride.

Isla Saona - high recommended. Getting there - a test of patience.