New Zealand: travel notes

December 1992 - January 1993

I wrote many individual destination posts about the trip to New Zealand with Brian. What follows are the entries from the travel journal I kept along the way. As with such journals, it doesn't change what I posted earlier, but it adds more details to the trip as it unfolded.

At the Antipodes: Brian and Matt's Excellent Adventure in New Zealand

Mt Cook

Getting there

December 16, 1992 Paihia, North Island (cool)

As with all of our trips, the last few days before departure were hectic, but we somehow managed to take care of everything for our one-month journey "down under". On the morning of the flight New York experienced a terrible storm. I was worried about getting on the plane at all. Luckily, we departed just before the airport closed and the size of the plane (747) made it very steady in the worsening weather. I hated taking off in bad weather and the first thirty minutes were extremely turbulent, but soon after it was smooth sailing.

Our 13-hour flight to Osaka passed more quickly than usual. We watched three movies we had already seen and another in which we had no interest. In spite of the stormy take off, we arrived to Osaka early. While we waited, I called friends in Japan and chatted briefly. Most of the time we sat in the waiting room poking fun at fellow passengers - always a good time-killer. The flight to Australia was a red-eye and stayed in the same time zone. We slept most of the way as we were exhausted from the first leg. As it turns out, we missed three movies would have liked to have seen.

We arrived in Sydney early morning. The flight had a six-hour layover, but luckily Qantas provided a special transit lounge with coffee, tea, and cookies (and TV). That certainly took the edge off our exhaustion. Unfortunately, the flight to Auckland was delayed (the last two flights had arrived early - the irony). Showers were also available in the lounge which did a lot to help us feel human again. Waiting when exhausted was always one of the most difficult things during our travels.

Finally, we boarded and the plane took off for the 3.5 hour flight to New Zealand. I don't think we remembered anything about that flight except wanting desperately to arrive. Upon landing, we rang the hotel (Dryden Lodge) and took a share taxi there. Finally, we had arrived in New Zealand!

Auckland

Our hotel was OK, but a little expensive. We were led to believe it was a "gay" hotel when in fact it was only LGB friendly. Unfortunately, the place was far from downtown which made seeing the city a challenge. We booked a similar hotel for Sydney for our stop there on the way home and I hoped that it would have a better location at least.

We dropped our stuff in the room and walked to a nearby shopping/restaurant strip on Ponsonby Road. We got some pasta for dinner and discussed going downtown that evening. In the end, we returned to the room (we were exhausted) and slept.

The following morning I woke early (Brian slept in but not as late as usual). I had some coffee while I waited for him to get ready. We had to go downtown and set up our travel itinerary. We called Jo and Jamie in Wellington (our Kiwi friends from our round-the-world adventure a year earlier) and promised to update them as soon as we had a clearer picture of our schedule. Our plan was to spend Christmas with them.

While I waited for Brian, I went to the TV lounge where I met some very unpleasant people. They literally did not want to interact (they barely acknowledged I was in the room). The owners, Peter and Brett, were extremely friendly, but on the whole most of the guests were not. That did not get the day started on the right foot. Finally, Brian showed up and we had our free breakfast (coffee/tea and toast - and the toaster was broken). I was starting to worry if these were omens about the trip. It was the first day after all. No worries - we needed to get a move on, go downtown, and start planning.

One of the hotel managers gave us information on "Gay Auckland". We thought we would try to incorporate some of that into our plans. Brian was more excited about it than me - I was interested in New Zealand, not "gay" New Zealand. On previous travels it had never been a focus for us. However, we rarely traveled in countries that were LGB friendly, so I thought - "why not"? (but a part of me still thought, "why bother?") I was clearly ambivalent, and it would impact our travel planning.

We decided to walk through the strange and rundown neighborhood surrounding the hotel to downtown. Ponsonby Road used to be like M Street in Georgetown, DC. K-Road (along the way) was a mixture of regular businesses and topless bars - not what we expected for Auckland. At last we arrived at Queen Street and downtown. We found STA travel (which we had used on other trips and found reliable). The information they provided only confused us more. Like a diner menu - the problem was too many choices, not too few!

December 17, 1992 Paihia, North Island (cool)

After visiting STA we felt over-informed. There was simply too much to do! Rather than make a decision on the spot (and regret it), we took some material to review and "think about it". Meanwhile, we stopped at McD's because were were absolutely starved. I couldn't remember the last time we ate there - even in the US.

We hopped on the $10 tour bus which made the rounds downtown for the rest of the day (again, something we rarely did). Our first stop was Kelly Tarlton's Undersea World (Auckland's premier attraction), but not before passing through some absolutely gorgeous seaside neighborhoods reminiscent of LA. The aquarium turned out to be extremely well-done. The fish weren't colorful reef fish, but that didn't matter. We walked through an acrylic tube that passed through the main tank (the first of its kind). Rather than being touristy, it turned out to be one of the best, most informative aquariums I ever experienced. The place was small and one hour was more than enough to see it completely.

We returned to the bus and went to the National Museum with its excellent Maori cultural exhibits. A traditional dance was performed for visitors there. It appeared mostly "fake" and "for show", much like similar things in the US done by Native Americans. The Maori, however, managed to retain a lot more of their original culture. Still, I was not excited to see the "Maori culture" stuff because it all felt reconstructed and touristy (especially compared to what we had seen in Indonesia a year before).

After the museum, we boarded the bus again and traveled to the local bungy jump (from a crane) and were lucky to see one person take the plunge. Brian was desperate to try it in New Zealand - I was extremely dubious.

We returned to STA where we bought tickets for the "Kiwi Experience" bus: Auckland - Wellington, then Picton - Queenstown - Christchurch. The bus would depart on Saturday which gave some time for exploring the North Island. Again, we weren't sure what to do given a raft of choices, so we decided to return to the hotel to think it over. On the way we stopped for ice cream. As we walked back to the hotel, I started to feel progressively worse.

By the time we reached the room I had chills and felt terrible. We took a nap which turned into an entire night's sleep. I think all the jet lag finally caught up with me. Additionally, Brian's indecision bothered me a lot. He put a lot of pressure on me to "decide what to do" (and then take the blame if it was bad). He heard from our hotel manager that there was a "gay resort" in Bay of Islands, but I was not enthusiastic since the "gay hotel" in Auckland wasn't very good. The point ended up being moot anyway. We both collapsed and slept till the following morning (we even missed calling Jo & Jamie with our plans). At least Brian recognized I was upset - too many things were happening at once and we had to decide quickly. The long sleep did us both good.

December 18, 1992 Paihia, North Island (cloudy & cold)

After we woke up the following morning, we chatted more with guests at the hotel. I still found them strange and unfriendly. Brian called the "Ulu" resort in Bay of Islands to see about spending time there. It wasn't possible - we needed a car and we didn't feel like renting one only to go to a hotel. So, we were back to looking for a "regular tour".

Brian felt disappointed and I felt conflicted. Yes, it might have been interesting, but since we were TRAVELING, I didn't think spending time at a gay resort was the primary purpose of the trip. We hopped a bus downtown and returned to STA.

After going through all the information and a lot of discussion, we decided to buy a bus ticket to Paihia, Bay of Islands and then make more plans from there. Paihia seemed to be the best base for exploring the "north" of the North Island - especially the kauri forest and Cape Reinga/90 Mile Beach. With at least some plans made, we relaxed. We headed off to Devonport for the afternoon after a quick breakfast bite (given the hotel offering was almost nothing). Traveling to Devonport required a ferry - crossing the bay was beautiful. Devonport itself reminded us of Santa Barbara - very clean, very quaint.

We bought a couple of t-shirts and then climbed the hill behind the neighborhood for a superb view of Auckland, Hauraki Bay, and some scattered islands. We relaxed in the hilltop park - Devonport felt warmer than Auckland (which we found cold since arrival). Finally, we slowly wandered back to the ferry and stopped for an ice cream (again).

We fell in love with New Zealand ice cream - one of the highlights of the trip.

After ferrying back, we walked to Victoria Market, an old factory converted into a mall with lots of small shops. We peeked in "From N to Z", a shop specializing in "New Zealandia". The young clerks were friendly to the point of overkill. They did sell some interesting things, however. We caught the city bus back to the Dryden Hotel where we told the managers of our plan. We asked for help with a ride to the bus station the following day (which they were happy to do - they were great guys).

We hung around the lodge and watched TV - we were tired. That evening we planned to have dinner out and then try one of the local spas. We were offered a ride downtown (we should have taken it) but instead opted to take the bus. The bus never came. We ended up walking to Ponsonby Street and then the spa. Although we were getting our steps in, we were tiring ourselves out unnecessarily. We came back late and slept immediately.

The next morning I woke early, packed, got Brian out of bed (always a struggle), and finally set off to the bus station.

Paihia

The journey to Paihia was beautiful. The road was extremely winding (and the bus had no onboard toilet - some people were feeling sick). We passed through forested hills, rolling pasture, and occasional views of the sea. Only a four hour journey, it felt longer for some reason - maybe because everything was so new to us. Finally, we arrived.

Finding a place to sleep was actually not easy, but the staff at Tourist Information helped us and we got a place on the far edge of town. We walked along the beach road to the Mayfair Hotel - a clean, pleasant place. After check-in, we only dropped our bags in the room and prepared to explore. The woman at reception gave us some information after which we walked down to the docks. Unfortunately, the Tourist Information Office was swamped when we arrived - we were grateful enough for the help to find a room. We would suss out more information on our own.

In the end, we bought a ticket and hopped on the ferry to Russell, one of the highlights of the Bay of Islands.

December 19, 1992 Auckland (cool, overcast weather)

The boat ride to Russell was short and pleasant. The Bay of Islands reminded me of Matsushima Bay in Japan - enclosed by low hills and holding a sprinkling of various sized islands. However, Bay of Islands was NOT four seasons, the weather was always warm (like Florida in the US) and many rich New Zealanders lived on its islands, peninsulas, and shores.

Russell sits on a peninsula and by ferry is only 10 minutes from Paihia. By car, it is a long drive that has to follow the coast. However, in spite of the setting, I still found Devonport in Auckland to be nicer - meaning it had more services. Russell is of great historical significance (it served as the first capital of European New Zealand). However, beyond that, it was just a sleepy little town with a lovely location. We climbed the famous Flagstaff Hill to get a view of the area - it did not disappoint. We stayed there for some time taking in the good weather and lovely scenery.

Having our fill of the view, we returned to the dock and caught the ferry back to Paihia. Then ensued a deep discussion about what to do the following day. The Cape Reinga/Kauri Forest tour was a grueling 11 hours on the bus, but Brian was very keen on it. Personally, I would have skipped Cape Reinga and spent more time in the Kauri Forest. As it turned out, it was a non-choice anyway. The forest tour was not available, so the only way to see it was to take the extremely long Cape Reinga tour. Our first attempt to book failed - the bus was completely full. Luckily, we found another company doing exactly the same tour. We were constantly surprised how many tours and hotels were fully booked. We had underestimated the difficulty traveling in New Zealand during tourist high season.

I also booked a boat tour for the following day. I was getting fed up with Brian expecting me to do everything (and make all the decisions). There were clearly things he wanted to do, but I had to drag it out of him. After a lot of bickering, all the tours were booked. It was time to eat.

I had some lovely fish and chips where I didn't receive what I had ordered but it turned out delicious anyway. We fed the gulls nearby for some amusement - I have never liked seagulls too much.

We returned to the hostel where I wrote some postcards and journaled. I met two women, a Canadian and a Brit, before sleeping and listened to their travel experiences. Nothing beats hearing from other travelers firsthand who just experienced something. I found the Canadian woman strange, but when traveling in hostels and budget hotels, that goes with the territory.

Cape Reinga

We had an early start for Cape Reinga the following morning. I spoke a little more with the Canadian woman and we were off.

Our first stop was Haruru Falls. We were not impressed and considering what waterfalls we would see later in the country, I wonder why we stopped at all? The bus passed by a few lodges in Kerikeri for some passengers to disembark. The area was filled with orchards. Finally, we were really on our way to the northern tip of New Zealand.

A Singaporean Chinese family was on the bus and their behavior was absolutely dreadful. They were loud, ate messy/odorous food on the bus all the time, and were late to return at each stop. Brian and I called them the family "Wing Fat" - laughing at their antics the entire ride. I was so used to Americans being clueless travelers. Clearly competition was waiting in the wings.

The first "real" stop was at a small stand of Kauri trees. The scenery to Cape Reinga alternated between farmland and forest cover. The Kauris were impressive, but the visit was rushed. The driver gathered us around the base of one of the massive trees and gave a brief explanation. No sooner did we process what he said and take a few photos than he called us back on the bus. Cape Reinga was far and there was no time to lose. I wished we could have had more information about the Kauris with their impressive, huge, dead-straight trunks. The shame was that when left undisturbed they could live up to 1000 years - so many had been logged already.

The ride continued along the west coast of North Island and it was lovely. We passed by Doubtless Bay which looked much better than Bay of Islands for a vacation - the water was clear and blue and the whole area appeared untouched.

Finally, we reached the bottom of 90-mile beach. The bus drove onto it and continued directly on the sand. It reminded me of the days when people used to drive on Daytona Beach, Florida (I had done that with my family). We drove nearly the full length of the beach at about 70mph - I wondered how the sand and seawater affected the bus? The whole beach was a wide strand of sand at low tide. There used to be dunes inland, but they were eventually planted over by farmers with grass and trees. The final effect looked more like a beach on the East Coast of the US - just more pristine, like the undeveloped parts of Assateague or the Outer Banks. I wondered how it appeared when it was all just "dune-scape".

We made a brief stop on the beach for those who might have wanted to swim (no one did). The bus then followed a stream bed back to the main road which parallels the beach. The road passed some of the remaining natural dunes. They were impressive, like something straight out of the Sahara. Even more striking was the contrast between the dunes on one side of the creek bed and the lush vegetation on the other.

We returned briefly to an asphalt road which then turned into a dirt road. The final, winding 20 minutes to Cape Reinga was down a bumpy track. After passing the last farm, the vegetation turned to scrubland. The road climbed into some low mountains that we followed to the tip of New Zealand. Our driver (who gave a nonstop monologue) explained that the Maori people believed the spirits of the dead jumped off this world at Cape Reinga after walking up 90-mile beach and then turning inland following the same track we had to reach the end. At the cape, they jumped into the sea and swam to the Three Kings Islands offshore. From there they continued north to their ancestral home (after all, the Maori are Polynesian and migrated to NZ from the north).

The area truly had a lands end feeling to it and soon we could see the water on both sides: the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean (we were told different colors - I didn't notice). Finally, we reached a parking lot filled with other tour buses! It seemed so unlikely - the place was remote (and down an unsurfaced road). The guide said in high season 3-400 people visited the cape daily.

We finally got off the bus to see the "spirit jumping off place".

December 20, 1992 Waitomo, North Island (sunny)

The weather was clear and beautiful, just windy. The cape descended into the sea in a slow, gentle slope ending in a sheer drop off. A lighthouse stood at the end with a signpost showing the distance to cities worldwide. The sun felt warm when we sat protected from the wind. We ate the sandwiches we had bought earlier and enjoyed the view. Above all Cape Reinga was quiet.

We visited the tiny, famous post office (northernmost in the country - not really such a big deal) and sent some cards home to friends. Reluctantly, we boarded the bus. It was going to be a long ride back to Paihia. On the way, we stopped at the Wagener Museum set in a park along a beautiful bay. The museum was an eclectic set of "junk" that displayed what was important for immigrants to bring with them over the years. Nothing appeared valuable to us - more like going through a collection of leftovers in our grandparents' attics.

We again boarded the bus for the return journey. We took a rest stop at a fruit stand in Kerikeri and FOUR buses arrived at the same time. It was sheer madness. The family Wing Fat were buying copious amounts of fruit - they must have been reminded of home. When we finally returned, we were happy to be off the bus. We had a very nice dinner in downtown Paihia (seafood) and returned to the hotel for a hot tub dip (a nice feature for a budget hotel). In the tub we met a Swedish couple. a Swiss guy, and.... the very strange Canadian woman who seemed to be omnipresent. She had been scuba diving and said it was good.

We fell into a a deep sleep - it had been an incredibly long day.

The following day we repacked and walked to the front desk. While changing money and storing our bags, reception informed us that our bus would NOT wait for us if the ferry were not on time (which would be the case if we had booked the ferry and bus with the same company). We just looked at each other - it was too late to do anything by that time. We had no choice but to go ahead with the plan and hope for the best.

We went to the pier and boarded (family Wing Fat was with us - we eye-rolled). The boat picked up some passengers in Russell (just a short ride away) and then the boat headed out into the Bay of Islands to see the sights. The first few stops were not that interesting mainly due to the weather - the sea appeared gray and it was low-tide as well. Then, just as we departed the last island stop, the sky cleared and the sun appeared. By the time we reached our destination, "the hole in the rock" at the entrance to the bay, the weather was excellent. That totally change our mood about the voyage and scenery.

The boat arrived at a large rock outcrop off the coast of Cape Brett. The towering rock had a large sea cave within it as well as the famous "hole" (archway). As the guide insisted on calling it a "hole", Brian and I kept bursting into laughter. The tourist boat was small enough to back into the cave for a closer look. We then sailed through the hole and back and then around the cape to a cleft in the high cliffs. The boat stopped and the crew brought out an underwater camera to show us a live feed of what was just under the surface. It was an amazing experience (with excellent narration).

December 21, 1992 Rotorua, North Island (cold and sunny)

After getting a good look at the sea bottom and fish (a very informative experience), the boat turned back toward Paihia. Suddenly, we were surrounded by a pod of dolphins paralleling the boat and playing next to us. Seeing them so close was amazing. We passed by the islands we had seen under cloudy skies and looked at them with fresh eyes. The water and their beaches were extraordinary. A sunny day can change everything sometimes.

Worry crept in, however. Would we make it back in time for our bus? We arrived with just a minute to spare. We sprinted to the bus stop to find the bus was late anyway. Ha! It eventually arrived and the ride back was uneventful (although the weather was lovely). We arrived once again in Auckland. Rather than return to our first hotel (inconvenient and expensive), we checked into "Backpacker's Central" - a huge, clean, well-laid-out place. They had private rooms (shared bath), so we were fine with it.

We had yet another bland meal in the hostel restaurant (we were fast becoming frustrated with how "dull" NZ food tasted) and returned to our room. With nothing planned, Brian suggested we return to the spa. I agreed, but our experience wasn't nearly as good as the first time (we should have passed on it all together). We returned to the hostel at midnight.

A large drunk man at the door followed us inside, but the front desk staff dealt with him. It was unnerving, but well-handled (and that incident was not "over" we discovered later). We slept - tired from all we had done over the past couple of days. I actually slept poorly because a bar across the street blasted loud music until 2:00am.

The next morning we awoke, had breakfast, and waited with our bags downstairs for the "Kiwi Experience" bus. It was 30 minutes late and a large group was boarding at the hostel. The bus finally came and the driver was - the drunk man from the night before. Not a good sign. Brian and I looked at each other in shock. Everyone stored their bags in the bus' belly and piled on. We made a few more stops and then began our "Kiwi Experience".

Traveling south from Auckland

The first official stop was Mt Eden for a scenic view over Auckland. The main problem was that it was cold and windy (it was supposed to be summer). The experience did not portend well for the rest of the trip. Our bus driver "Slim" continued onward toward Waitomo. As it was a long ride, we all took time to introduce ourselves on the bus. That turned out to be a good idea (and a lot of fun). The scenery along the way looked similar to North American farmland - lovely, but not very "wow" for us (nor fellow passengers).

Waitomo

Upon reaching Waitomo, we checked into a colonial era hotel (the servants' quarters of a large house). Unfortunately, not enough rooms were available for all of us, so some people had to take cabins (super rustic) in the adjoining campground. Luckily, Brian and I got a room in the main building. Kiwi Experience provided transportation to a hotel or hostel and information on activities at each stop. After that, passengers were on their own.

Waitomo was all about caving.

Brian and I signed up for "Blackwater Rafting" right away. Shortly after, we walked to the nearby Museum of Caves, paid, and were picked up for our adventure. As there were only 12 of us, we got to know some more people - Patrick from Switzerland and Dave from Nashville, two very fun guys. We were given wetsuits (the water was cold) by our very dark-humored guides Dave & Paul. Then we had to hike to the entrance with one stop along the way: a creek with a high jump off. We had to do it or turn back. Why? Because inside the cave was a similar jump and if someone couldn't handle it, it was better to find out before going below ground! We all managed the jump (it was fun), but it made for a very bizarre start to the experience.

At the cave entrance, we were given inner tubes and donned miner's caps with lights. The first part of the journey was on foot. Finally, we hit the main underground stream and got into the cold water. We floated, and walked, and floated, and walked - repeatedly. The experience was thrilling. Finally, we came to a long watery stretch ending in a waterfall. We had to jump down the falls into the pool below (it probably was a good idea to practice before entering - the jump was high).

In the pool at the bottom, the guides told us to turn off our head lamps and look up. When our eyes adjusted the ceiling was filled with glow worms giving off a soft light. In the pitch blackness we saw clusters of blue-white on the ceiling and walls. It felt like a planetarium and was extraordinarily spectacular. I thought of Journey to the Center of the Earth and the same phenomenon (which was grossly overstated - the light was extremely dim).

We finally exited the cave and came into the light. Our eyes struggled to adjust to the light outside. We continued floating until we hit the parking lot where their transport bussed us back to the Museum of Caves. We took off our wetsuits and were given some hot soup to warm us up (it was an overall cold experience). Finally, we had done something "amazing" in New Zealand. We loved it!

We walked back to the hotel and, as there wasn't much going on, took a stroll through Waitomo town (also, not much there). Upon returning to the hotel we chatted with Patrick, Magnus from Sweden, and two girls from Britain for a long time. Our small group agreed it was time to eat, so we went to a nearby tavern for dinner (BBQ). As we had to wait for it, we decided to have some beer (and had to pay a cover charge because that night featured live music). In the end, the BBQ was terrible (as was most food in NZ) and the music just OK - it was extremely loud.

We all returned to the hotel, chatted a little more and slept. It had been a great day.

December 22, 1992 Taupo, North Island (cold)

Waitomo to Rotorua

We woke up, experienced some confusion getting everyone on the bus, and then set off for breakfast. It turned out to be a long stop where we met a NZ woman and had a nice conversation. The breakfast was very slow in coming - the service was glacial. Finally, we were on our way. The bus stopped at a dam for us to observe - the highlight was a bungy jump from the bridge. Slim explained that it was the height of the "low" jump in Queenstown (the original). I believe a lot of people lost their nerve right then and there.

Rotorua

We continued to Rotorua, again through endless farmland. We checked into a hostel (very nice facility) only to find Slim had abandoned us for the afternoon. We all went shopping at the supermarket nearby (very similar to the US) for lunch. A group of us decided to try the luge nearby. It was a lot of fun! Returning via one of Rotorua's steaming hot springs, we came to the hostel and prepared for the "Maori concert" that evening. All of us were dissatisfied with the lack of information given for Rotorua (again, Slim had vanished).

We were bussed out to the Maori Marae where the performers held a ceremony similar to the one we saw in Auckland Museum. Actually, it was not as good, but there was much more audience participation (kind of fun). After the performance, we ate a traditional "hangi" and found the food extraordinarily bland. We joined Patrick and the two British women for our meal which was better than dining with total strangers. At the end of the meal, we were treated to some Maori oral history - fascinating.

We returned to the hostel and slept. In spite of our fun, we thought it was a "washout" day due to lack of planning. As an unexpected bonus, the people on the bus were all getting to know each other more. Unfortunately, post-Waitomo I started to battle a cold (given how overall cold the trip was and our lack of preparation, I was not surprised). The following morning we got off to a late start.

Brian and I went to downtown Rotorua to the bank to change money and for a little shopping. We decided to ride the luge (again) - it really was fun. We also came across a trout farm cum zoo which was surprisingly well laid out. It provided the chance to see yet more of NZ's flora and fauna. The trout were massive and looked like they would make for good eating. Apparently, species from all over the world had been imported to New Zealand for sport and wreaked havoc on the local ecosystem. The impact on the environment was devastating - we felt sad.

On a nearby hillside we did a "human gyroscope" ball where a person is strapped inside a huge gyroscope and rolled down a hill. Definitely once was enough - it was one of the most disorienting experiences of my life. We returned to the hostel and got ready to leave.

Rotorua to Taupo

Upon leaving Rotorua we stopped at a famous geyser which was NOT erupting. We waited and then Slim declared, "well, it's not going off today", and left. The whole area was filled with geothermal activity. We stopped along the Waikato River to take in the view as an official "stop". Actually, it was not interesting, but we were happy to be off the bus. We took our lunch there and then continued toward Taupo.

We stopped at Huka Falls (very famous) and were duly impressed by both the volume of water and its icy blue color (due to the purity of the water). However, compared to other waterfalls we encountered in our travels, it was not as amazing as its build up (the most famous waterfall in the country). We continued along the river valley on foot to some hot springs - they were off-limits as they held a strain of bacterial meningitis - yikes! They looked inviting as boiling water gushed into the river water and there was one inlet where the water temperature was likely perfect for soaking. The river walk was nice, but also not amazing (as it was built up to be).

Taupo

We checked into the hostel in Taupo and had to share a room with others (first time). I wasn't happy, but we knew that might happen when we signed on for the Kiwi Experience. Everyone on the bus went for Mexican food that evening and the drinking crowd stayed on to do shots of tequila. The next day was NOT an early departure, so people could stay out late and party (definitely the main focus of at least half the people on the bus). We only had a few drinks and left. We chatted with Magnus from Sweden (before he got plastered) and left early. The food wasn't great, but compared to what we had been eating prior to arrival it tasted "heavenly".

December 27, 1992 Cook Strait (cold and rainy)

We awoke and piled into the bus. First order of business was the bungy jump - we watched the Swedish guys do it. The setting was spectacular above the Waikato River just outside Taupo. We actually saw several more people do the jump before we headed back into town. Wow! The bus stopped for the usual food shopping, banking, and other things people needed. Given the diverse needs of the group, the stop stretched on and on. Finally, we were all on the bus and one of the Canadians discovered she lost her camera. We had to look for that. Then the Swedish guy forgot his t-shirt at the bungee jump, so we had to return for that. We finally left town and drove along the shore of Lake Taupo.

The lake is the largest crater lake in the world - very scenic to drive along its shoreline. I thought it would make a relaxing place to spend a holiday. We reached the opposite end and the road climbed up to the volcanic plateau which holds several peaks: Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu. Brian and I were impressed (and thought a lot about Japan). Finally, New Zealand's scenery was becoming dramatic rather than "mildly pleasant". We drove atop the windswept lava fields, viewing flows of past eruptions. Brian and I wanted to splurge on a scenic flight over the area (as did others), but the small airport was closed when we arrived (had we left Taupo earlier, it might have been open).

Slim again changed the itinerary and instead of hiking in the national park (which we were interested in), we drove down a long and winding road to a Te Ruka Farm where Slim went horseback riding (because he liked it). Others joined him, but most of us felt like "what is going on?" Brian and I climbed to the top of some ridges near the farm to take in the views (lovely). The place was incredibly remote - on the farm they had a teenage son and a younger daughter. We wondered what it was like for them growing up there. The hosts on the farm were genuinely friendly and hospitable. For anyone wanting to do serious, wilderness horseback riding (in safety), that place checked all the boxes.

Our stop on the farm was far too long.

Ohakune

On the opposite side of Tongariro National Park lay the town of Ohakune, our next stop. To get there, we had to backtrack a lot (due to the farm stop). The lodge was fantastic (the best of the trip to that point) and we all cooked a meal together there because Slim told us they had no restaurant. As it turned out... they did. We all had fun cooking together nonetheless. Brian and I slept early.

We awoke early (with heavy encouragement from me for Brian to do so) to do mountain biking down the slopes of Ruapehu. The group was myself and Brian, Colin (a Chinese/Malay Kiwi), the loud Irish woman, one of the large Canadian women, and a British woman (who was the nicest of the bunch). Brian, Colin, and I started off together. The weather was cold and windy at the top. We were cold! The road was dangerous - mostly gravel with many sheer drops. The scenery reminded me a lot of our drive to Mt Hood in Oregon a few years earlier.

We descended the first few kilometers slowly, but sped up as the road conditions improved (and the drop offs were not as steep). At the tree line we could go almost brakeless as the curves in the road were gentle and the road became tarmac. The ride was exhilarating. We reached the bottom in no time. The only bad thing was that the weather at the top was overcast and we didn't enjoy what might have been the best view of the trip to that point.

We quickly packed up and got on the bus. We found some guys that were doing war games and had to wait for them to finish (quite long). Finally, after getting on the bus, they told Slim their bags were at the hostel and we had to return to pick them up. Everyone was furious. We had our second late start in two days.

Ohakune to Wellington

We drove off the volcanic plateau to Flat Hills for a rest break and jet boating (if we wanted). Only a few people opted for it, so the rest of us hung out at the rest stop waiting. Again, we got on the bus. Everyone was starting to feel disgusted with how the tour had degenerated - on the bus, off the bus, repeatedly. We were supposed to have transport to cheap accommodation and information on activities at each place - all coordinated by our driver. As he coordinated nothing, it was like herding cats getting people back to the bus each time. We all couldn't wait to get off.

We could tell the bus was nearing a big city as the traffic (almost non-existent most other places) suddenly became heavy. Finally, we hit the outskirts of Wellington and the weather turned sunny. The city is famous for rain so we were indeed lucky to see the city, the bay, and the mountains encircling it beautifully. It most reminded me of Nagasaki, Japan with its placement in a deep bay surrounded by mountains. Houses climbed the hills, green forests coated the mountain slopes, and the bay was a deep blue with many inlets. The city appeared postcard perfect. Our friends Jo & Jamie lived in a beautiful city.

Wellington

We arrived at the hostel and began the process of booking our onward ferry tickets to the South Island just after Christmas (which we would spend with our dear friends Joe & Jamie). That is when the shit really hit the fan....

December 27, 1992 Nelson, South Island (warmer and partly sunny)

We were getting a huge run-around purchasing the tickets and that made us concerned if we would even make it to the South Island (and use our onward ticket with Kiwi Experience). After a lot of wrangling (and requesting our friends Jo & Jamie to intercede), we were booked on a ferry. During the initial hoopla over getting the ticket, we gave Magnus our address in New York City (we rarely did that). He said he might stop on his way home - we hoped he would. He was a great guy.

Jo came and picked us up at the hostel, and it was a happy reunion indeed. We told her about all of our problems and frustrations on the ride down from Auckland (and thanked her for the help getting our ferry ticket). She listened intently - surprised at some of the things we had been through.

We drove to the suburb of Ngaio, their home. There we met Jamie and our old travel crew was reunited. They took Brian and I for a drive up Mt Victoria for a view over the city. It was stunning (and they provided us running commentary). Brian and I were so happy to meet them again.

Jo & Jamie took us to dinner at the Back Bench, a popular MP hang out right behind the Bee Hive (Parliament House - they look amazingly similar). Afterward, we returned to their house and talked as we did laundry (very needed). Mostly, however, we relaxed in our old friends' house.

Wellington to Urenui

The next morning we woke early to go into town to pick up our ferry tickets (and put that odyssey to rest). Right after we departed for the long (five-hour) drive to Urenui in Taranaki where we would spend Christmas with Jo's sister, Grace. The drive was through farmland on a winding road crowded with holiday traffic (surprising after experiencing mostly empty roads the whole way to Wellington). The sky was cloudy, so we couldn't see the perfect cone of Mt Taranaki (Egmont).

Finally, we arrived.

Urenui

Grace lived in a house built on stilts in the farmland surrounding Mt Taranaki. We settled in for a traditional Kiwi Christmas including fish & chips on Christmas Eve, roast lamb Christmas Day, Christmas crackers, paper crowns, gift exchange, and a lot of drinks (wine, beer, and champagne). It was all so wonderful and relaxing after the last often frustrating week of travel. We felt blessed to have friends with which to share the holiday. I thought it must have been lonely for our Kiwi Experience travel mates in Wellington alone.

On Christmas Day we drove to New Plymouth and nearby Lucy's Gully, a part of Taranaki National Park (which covers the entire mountain). In fact, the place was a stand of redwoods (imported from California - they grow even better in New Zealand). That led to a discussion of what was native to the country and what was not. Jo & Jamie knew a lot! Unfortunately, so much of NZ's environment had been ruined by imported flora and fauna.

Later, we stopped at the beach near Urenui - black sand. It was scenic and filled with campers (camping for Christmas?). The beach was filled with driftwood, too. I had never seen so much in one place. It reminded me a lot of the Oregon coast.

Back at Grace's we watched the Queen's Christmas Message (not that interesting in content, but interesting as a cultural experience). Jo & Jamie looked forward to watching it all day. No one could stay up very late that day after all the food and alcohol. We slept early.

The next day, we had to get up early and get back to Wellington. On the return, the clouds parted very briefly and we saw the peak of Taranaki. Actually, it had happened several times in Urenui, too - each time when we didn't have our cameras. At least we saw it (although Grace was greatly disappointed we didn't see it from her house deck - it must have been beautiful). Mt Egmont (Taranaki) is famously cloudy anyway.

The ride to Wellington felt long, even with friends. They dropped us to pick up our second round of Kiwi Experience tickets (South Island), and then we caught a cab back to their place. We ended up doing more laundry. Wellington had a spa and Brian wanted to visit, but we did not have enough time and Ngaio was far out of the city (also it was Boxing Day so it was likely closed). Brian felt restless, but I was happy to get everything ready for what was to be the best part of the trip, South Island.

The next morning we woke early and caught a taxi to the station. We waited forever to get picked up. It was a miserable day in Wellington, too - windy, rainy, and cold. Finally, our ride came for the ferry. We boarded and started our journey to the South Island. The second half of the trip had officially begun. We bid a sad farewell to our friends and promised to keep them updated.

December 28, 1992 Nelson, South Island (sunny)

Wellington to Picton, South Island

The boat was absolutely packed. Boarding was a madhouse as well as getting a seat. The views over Wellington were dull as it was raining, so we sat in the bar (the only seats available). People were drinking beer at 10:00am (yuck). Not much to do or see, the passenger space was limited. It truly was mainly a vehicle ferry.

As we continued, we entered better weather and the trip through the Queen Charlotte Islands and the Marlborough Sound was lovely. It reminded me of the Inside Passage along British Columbia and Alaska. We ate some fish & chips for lunch and then sat outside enjoying the views. Picton appeared to be a nice-looking little town. The ferry terminal was ultra-modern (like an airport). Unfortunately, our bags were some of the last to come off the boat.

Brian and I dubiously boarded the Kiwi Experience bus (the second half).

Picton to Nelson

The bus took us along the very winding Queen Charlotte Drive. The views were gorgeous as we passed by bays and coves and then up to scenic overlooks. The South Island already appeared far more forested than the North Island, but we weren't sure if it was just that place in particular. Finally the bus arrived in Nelson.

Nelson

After arrival, some people went tandem skydiving (we gave it a pass to save money for later adventures). Everyone who did it absolutely loved it. We had to take a room to share at the hostel. Our roommate was a very nice Swedish guy. We all went for Chinese food for dinner (totally blah) and then saw the film "Under Siege" at the local theatre (much to my protest - I was not in NZ to watch movies). Upon returning, the hostel was quiet so I stayed up and wrote in my journal and read the local newspaper.

On the whole, Nelson was a tidy, small town, but given it was Sunday night, there was even less to do than normal. Brian turned in early - he felt bored. We signed up for jet-boating the following day, so I hoped that would be a lot of fun. The Kiwi Experience bus appeared far more subdued than the last one. We met a British guy who had been on a competing bus company (Magic Bus) and said he thought Kiwi Experience was extremely "quiet". Brian and I wondered if we had made a mistake continuing with the same company?

December 29, 1992 Westport, South Island (rainy)

Nelson to Westport

The next morning we were off to our usual Kiwi Experience late start as we drove around picking people up. We left Nelson at 11:00am.

The scenery kept improving dramatically - it was wonderful. We climbed up and over the Nelson Range to catch a glimpse of snow-capped mountains in the distance. The road dropped down steeply into the Buller River Valley which we followed all the way to Westport. We saw the aftermath of some heavy logging (sadly), but still the South Island was far more tree-covered than North Island. The forests seemed endless and the mountains, severe. Finally, we were in the part of New Zealand that matched our expectations.

The bus stopped in Murchison for lunch - what a small town! It reminded me of tiny places in the Western US. Shortly after, we were dropped for white water rafting. The guide explained that the river was running higher than usual which meant it was nearly a Grade 5. In reality, that was just hype to make us feel excited - it was mostly a grade 3 river with a few difficult spots that might have classified as 4. The trip was OK - we all donned wetsuits and had all the proper equipment (unlike rafting in many developing countries which provide raft only). The tour was well-organized. We navigated a few rapids, did an incredible leap off a small cliff (scary) and then goofed off in the water a lot. Unfortunately, Brian badly twisted his ankle on one of the rapids. I hoped it would be OK because it swelled A LOT. Brian assured me it was not broken. I became concerned about his ability to join future "adventure" activities as we had just started in South Island - full of adventure opportunities).

We floated to the pull out and changed back into dry clothes. A rural tavern nearby made for a great beer stop. After that, some of us boarded a jet boat for the remaining journey to Westport.

The jet boat ride was incredible! The boat just skimmed the top of the water (the whole reason for their creation was transport on NZ's shallow rivers). The drivers are maniacs (mostly for tourists) - they deliberately head toward rocks or cliffs and change course at the last minute. The boats are incredibly maneuverable. I was starting to understand why people said New Zealand adventure sports were for adrenaline junkies! That ride through the gorge was probably the the most thrilling thing we had done to that point.

We arrived back in Westport damp but fully jazzed and awake - like having drunk three espressos in a row.

We stayed on at "Buller Adventure Tours" to get more information about activities farther down the line. They recommended glacier rafting (I was worried about Brian's ankle) and the flight over the glaciers (but we had to check the price - a helicopter ride was likely to be expensive). Finally, we returned to the room and Brian went to bed to rest his foot. I got us fast food Chinese for lunch (and some ice to put on his ankle).

Brian slept early and I stayed up and talked to a German guy from the bus. He was very nice and had lived in Frederick, MD and worked in DC of all places! I needed to find an ACE bandage for Brian - we thought he might need an x-ray. We were both concerned.

December 30, 1992 Ross, South Island (rainy)

Westport to Ross

The west coast of the South Island is famously rainy - we were finding that out. I got breakfast and a bandage for Brian. We packed up the bus and I sat next to the German guy (Marc), so Brian could stretch out his foot. Marc and I chatted and watched the scenery (rarely visible in the mist) pass by. Our first stop was the appropriately named Cape Foulwind where there was a seal colony. We all got off to see them and came to understand one thing quickly - they stank! Like some huge dog park that no one ever cleaned up after, the seal colony was covered in shit. Yuck. The coastline reminded me a lot of Northern California or Oregon.

As we headed south, the weather worsened. At Pancake Rocks, Marc and I ventured out in the rain and wind (we got soaked). Had anything been visible (it wasn't), it might have been interesting. The location was famous for its blow holes which were not "blowing" either. We should have stayed on the bus because we felt wet and uncomfortable the rest of the day.

The bus stopped in Greymouth for lunch (pizza) and then continued on to Hokitika for us to see glass blowing and jade carving - the jade carving was especially interesting. Above all, however, it was a tourist stop and felt like one.

The next item on the day's itinerary was a tramp around a lake. After getting soaked earlier, Marc & I passed (Brian was trying to rest his foot the whole day). We made a good call. Soon after the bus dropped those people it poured. We drove to a pub at the other end of the walk and waited (while drinking beer). Finally, they all arrived soaked to the bone. They boarded the bus and we continued on to Ross.

Ross

Our stay for the night was the Empire Hotel. Ross was tiny and felt like "nowhere", literally. Brian, Marc, and I had fish & chips for dinner. Afterward we got to know a few more people from the bus - two young Kiwis and a Korean couple (who did not speak much English). Brian went to bed early (to further rest his ankle) and I followed shortly after. The partying looked like it was going to go late into the night, led by two crazy Irish guys on the bus.

We woke up to yet more heavy rain and hoped the day would not be a wash out. Brian said his foot was improving (but it actually looked worse).

January 1, 1993 Franz Josef, South Island (cloudy weather)

Ross to Franz Josef

It rained and rained (and rained). We stopped at a place called "Bushman's Center" to see a New Zealand Cowboy Museum. The place had live eels, pigs, and possums. Even though it felt hokey, it was informative, too. The possums are actually ruining the local environment because they are non-native. Their fur, however, is very soft and beautiful (which is why they were brought). The anti-fur lobby has nearly destroyed their export. It seemed a shame that an activity that could control their numbers was almost completely banned.

We continued to Franz Josef. The bus parked near the base of the glacier and we all got out for a quick walk and some photos. It was still raining however (and felt very cold - it was a glacier after all). We were impressed with that frozen river of ice speckled in dirt with an occasional deep blue radiating out through cracks. Various waterfalls spilled over the glacier valley as well. Unfortunately, we didn't have the opportunity to enjoy it fully due to the weather. The walk was difficult as the path had become a streambed.

In the car park we watched some Keas and could take some good photos. Keas are NZ's nearly extinct native "ground parrot". The birds were very comical and came close to us (which might explain why so many are killed by non-native species).

Franz Josef

We retired to the lodge where Marc joined Brian and me in the room. There was a fourth bed that remained empty. Due to the weather we just hung around and later walked into town. There we met the helicopter tour pilot who told us he could only go in decent weather (totally reasonable). If the next morning were clear, we would fly.

Marc and I had some lousy food at the local pub and a few beers. Brian stayed in the room to rest his foot (and keep it elevated on ice). He joined us at the pub later and then we all went back to the room. I was happy to spend time with Marc - he was such a nice guy. Our sleep was interrupted by a brief "eruption" from the Irish guys. I was getting tired of their alcohol-fueled antics. Apparently some food was stolen from the fridge and they were the prime suspects. In the end, it was the hotel employees who were implicated - what a mess!

January 2, 1993 Makarora, South Island (sunny!)

We woke to cloudy skies and thought the helicopter was out of the question. Marc and I left for a glacier walk - it was good to see it again in better weather. However, we were a group of 30 people of all ages and abilities. Progress was excruciatingly slow. The ice that we saw was blue, glacial stuff - just gorgeous. On that short walk, I gained a lot of respect for those who walk on glaciers as explorers - a very dangerous business.

We returned to town and booked a helicopter for 3:40pm. They told us to call them to confirm. We relaxed in the hostel for a bit, then confirmed. It was a go! They came and picked us up, but we were dubious. The weather had become cloudy again during the time we waited. However, we trusted the pilots.

Brian, Marc, and I boarded the helicopter with two other people. We flew along the base of the mountains and up the Fox Glacier Valley (that we had just visited). It was an amazing sight - there were pinnacles of ice sticking up everywhere. Suddenly, we were out of the clouds and in bright sunshine with a full panorama of the mountains. Brian and I looked at each other - it was one of those moments we KNEW we were experiencing one of the best moments of our lives. The pilot showed us the source of the Fox Glacier and then flew across the mountain divide so we could see the Tasman Glacier. We flew right up next to Mt Cook (the tallest in NZ). We returned skirting the top of the dividing range of the South Island and landed at Franz Joseph Neve. We jumped out briefly (it was freezing cold, but sunny). The snow was clean and white. The experience was amazing - like we were living in some kind of dream.

After returning to the helicopter, we started back down the Fox Glacier and the pilot pointed out the part we had hiked on. We had seen about 1/1000 of it! That flight was likely the best experience of the entire trip (and one of the best in all our travels).

We returned in time to watch the white water rafting group pulling out (without us). Actually, I think Marc was more disappointed than me. After what happened to Brian the last time, I kept thinking, what if something worse happened? Better not to tempt fate (and besides, that water was freezing cold). Apparently, arranging it in the afternoon was a total mess (which is why we got left behind). Those returning told us it was amazing. Oh well, a missed opportunity. We didn't care - that helicopter flight still buzzed in our heads.

That evening was New Year's Eve, but we were all very tired and had a hard time staying up until midnight. Brian, Marc, and I drank in the pub and then a very drunk Maori woman kept bothering us to dance. Finally, Brian and I pushed Marc to do it (he was NOT happy). We couldn't stop laughing and teased Marc about it the rest of the trip. Meanwhile, we met another German guy and talked to him and his American girlfriend (total snob). At least we toasted in the new year.

We slept at 12:30am - I was shocked we made it that late. It had been an exciting day (but a tame New Year's Eve) Then again what could we expect in tiny Franz Joseph.

January 3, 1993 Queenstown, South Island (cloudy and cold)

Franz Josef to Makarora

Once again, we got off to a late start (unsurprisingly), but we at least were on the road by 10:00am. The first stop was at Lake Matheson to see the non-existent view of Mt Cook mirrored in it (in cloudy, windy weather not possible). Instead we took a long hike around the lake (which was beautiful). Later, from a high point we stopped at place where we could see Fox Glacier. Brian, Marc, and I thought - so what? Nothing compared to the helicopter view.

The bus continued south. The road hugged some beautiful coastline and we made a few stops for photos. The last town on the coast before it becomes impassable and the road turns inland is Haast. There we bought a keg for the evening (organized, of course, by the Irish guys). The road turns into a river valley toward the Haast Pass.

Finally, the weather became sunny, so the ride up into the mountains was beautiful. We followed the river valley with snowcapped mountains on either side. We often stopped at viewpoints for photos. At one place was a waterfall where some people went swimming (we all opted out - the water was freezing). After that we came to the Blue Pools, some glacially fed natural ponds along a river. I had never seen such pure, blue water - and they were deep! Again, some people swam in them, but with the wind, we thought the air felt way too cold. The last thing we needed was to catch a cold just before Queenstown.

The Haast River Pass was actually a non-event - it was actually quite low and not that impressive. The road descended out of the mountains into a broad valley. The vegetation grew increasingly sparse. It felt like parts of Wyoming.

Our stop for the night was in Makarora at a campsite (hence we needed to bring the beer). Some people brought their own tents, but most of us stayed in large A-frame dorms. Unfortunately, the toilets were all in one, separate building - ugh. An outhouse is an outhouse no matter how fancy (and there were few toilets inside) It was far from the A-frames. I didn't enjoy the stay whatsoever, but the scenery was superlative.

The local travel agency offered flights over the region, but Brian, Marc, and I decided since we already experienced a fantastic one, we didn't want to feel disappointed by something lesser. We had yet another Kiwi Experience terrible meal (barbeque). I was starting to miss "real" food - we were bored with all the "travel food" we had been eating meal after meal.

Brian, Marc, and I ate with Friedman and his girlfriend, Nikki. We talked with them for a long time. I still found his girlfriend to be very b....y, but Friedman was super nice. We all got sucked into a drinking game after dinner, but I bowed out early. I already ate and drank a lot before the game started. I just went to bed early and left Marc and Brian to the game.

Makarora to Queenstown

The following day we awoke and had an on-time start (shocking). We had a lot to do before arriving in Queenstown, the end of the tour. First stop was Lake Wanaka - even though overcast, it was still beautiful. I wondered if the lochs in Scotland were similar. The road clung to the edge of the lake, sometimes dropping steeply to water's edge only to climb again along a sheer drop. I was hoping our driver was not too hung over (as he liked to drink in the evenings) to navigate the winding road.

The bus turned off the lake-edge road, crossed a small saddle, and we entered the Lake Hawea Valley. The view just upon entering was stunning. Although the weather was still cloudy, Lake Hawae provided better scenery than Lake Wanaka. We followed the shore to a place called, "the Maze Center" outside of Wanaka town. It was a kind of rest stop/puzzle center with all sorts of things lying around for people to solve. The place famously held a huge maze in the back. We were told not to attempt it lest someone get lost and delay the bus departure!

We continued on to Kawarau Gorge - the first ever commercial bungy jump (AJ Hackett) in the world. Brian and Marc wanted to do it. I chickened out mainly because of the snap at the bottom and my worry I would somehow throw out my back for the trip. Watching others do it previously, that first recoil appeared severe. I felt disappointed - but with Brian's foot on the mend, I didn't want to add my own ailment to the mix. I ended up being the photographer.

Watching the operation (very organized and safe) was fascinating and I saw many members from our bus do it. We were there quite some time until everyone jumped. Brian and Marc LOVED it and talked about it for the rest of the day, in fact. Oh well...

We followed the Kawarau Valley toward Queenstown. It took a long time to reach the hostel. Upon arriving we immediately had to make onward travel arrangements, reconfirm some activities, and find some place to eat. As was our previous experience with Kiwi Experience, it was completely confusing and frustrating - it took us 1.5 hours just to get it all sorted. However, finally we had arrived in Queenstown, the travelers' center of the South Island - Adrenaline Capital of the World.

January 4, 1993 (sunny)

Queenstown

Queenstown's situation is idyllic - a narrow, blue lake with steep mountains towering on both sides. One range, the Remarkables, makes a perfect backdrop because of their rugged profile. and due to the way they catch the early morning and late afternoon sun. The clarity of the water was phenomenal. It reminded me of Vail or Aspen had they been located on lakes as well as of Kathmandu because it is a center for backpacker/adventure travelers.

We got our plans straightened out: fly to Milford Sound, stay on a boat/hotel, take a bus tour back and leave for Christchurch the following day. The travel agent that Kiwi Experience recommended was awfully confusing (seemingly confused themselves), but we eventually got tickets. Basically, we paid NZ$80 more to fly to Milford Sound rather than take the bus both ways. I don't think I could have stood both trips on the bus (it was far) after all the bus rides we had taken recently. Marc hesitated at the extra money - he is on a strict budget - but he finally agreed.

Our hostel accommodation was OK, but there were too many people in one room. At least each room had its own bathroom. We dropped our stuff there and then took a walk around town. We looked in the shops, took photos (everything looked beautiful), and then climbed a small hill behind town to have an even better view over the lake and mountains. I could not even imagine living there. The place appeared breathtaking at every turn.

That evening it was difficult to find a place to eat because Queenstown was packed with travelers. Basically, unless dinner was taken before 7:00pm, every single restaurant had a queue of people waiting to enter. Our first choice was Lone Star (Tex-Mex) - a 1.5 hour wait, then we tried Cow (a total mob scene), and finally settled on Avanti who could seat us in only 10 minutes. We actually were served some tasty food (which I had begun to crave!). Kiwi food overall was bland for us - like food in the UK used to be. After dinner we had ice cream. New Zealand ice cream helped us forget a lot of mediocre dinners.

We shopped a little more and returned to the hostel. The next morning started a free day.

Our wake up was deliberately late (unlike with Kiwi Experience - late due to incompetence) because we had the whole day free. So many choices existed, we were overwhelmed. Finally, we decided to take the gondola to the top of one of the mountains overlooking town. The weather was fabulous.

I saw people parasailing and nagged Brian that we didn't do that yet. Before arriving at the gondola station, Brian and I needed to reconfirm our flight. At a big travel center they were surprised by our request and weren't sure what to do (it was Qantas). We finally managed it.

The gondola ride was beautiful and we took many photos from the observation deck at the top station. Those were the best views of the whole trip to that point. It was possible to climb further up, so we did. There we met "Guy", an independent parasailer. He offered us a tandem ride for $NZ 100. I really wanted to do it; it looked amazing. Marc declined (too expensive) and agreed to take our stuff, but Brian was game. We hiked a long way to the take off point - a flat meadow with a sheer drop off. Brian and I got hooked up to our respective guys (it was tandem) and then we had to run in unison (not easy) toward the cliff to fill the sail and jump off. That was terrifying, but soon I was in the air with Guy circling up and up. He asked, "do you want to go higher?" I said, "why not?" He shouted, "I am so glad you are not a screamer". Up and up we went - higher than all the others. It was fun and glorious - perhaps the most exciting thing I had done in life to that point. We flew over the mountains, over the city, and over the lake. Then we did some rapid 360 degree turns very quickly which where dizzying and scary. Guy wanted to get us down quickly to grab another customer.

The landing was terrible (I had been promised it was "not that bad"). It felt more like a controlled fall. I was so worried about Brian and his ankle - I felt lucky not to have broken my own. As it turns out, Brian's landing was soft, but he was furious because his parasailer, Mike, had brought him down directly. In fact, I was up longer than anyone (20 minutes and we were told 10). Brian moaned about it for the rest of the day saying that he had been ripped off and it wasn't worth the money (he was just angry he didn't get the same time I did). Later people told us that Mike was known for giving extremely short rides.

At the base we waited forever for Marc to return. He decided to walk down. We were sure he felt disappointed, but he also was trying to stay on budget.

Upon his return, we went out for some falafel and then looked for a Swann Dry jacket for Marc (Swann Dry is an NZ-made product for sheep herders that is both warm and water resistant - 100% wool). The rest of the day was laid back. We met fellow Kiwi Experience passengers throughout the day and caught up with them on what they had done. We walked to a peninsula near town on the lake that was a park. The wind was blowing small white caps on the blue water - the view was magical.

We returned to town to try to eat at Lone Star yet again. It was still a 20 minute wait so we had some Guinness till they called us. The food was actually tasty and we enjoyed our time. Marc was very worried about overspending (he was on a long trip - he had already been in Australia for several weeks before coming to NZ and planned to return). Since Brian and I had done very long trips on tight budgets, we understood his concern. I felt lucky that Brian and I were no longer "extreme budget travelers" and weren't as concerned about money as we had been in the past.

We walked around after the meal to help the food settle. We felt stuffed. We then returned to the room for the night. The weather for Milford Sound was forecast to be clear for a few days!

We awoke to sunny weather. Brian, Marc, and I had a quick breakfast and got our bags in order (we were storing most of our stuff and returning after visiting Milford Sound). The company whisked us off to the airport where we arrived on time.

Queenstown to Milford Sound

The plane was a five-seater. We were four passengers (another young woman joined us). The plane took off - it was immediately beautiful. We flew along Lake Wakatipu and then up a mountain valley to a very narrow notch in the mountain. The pilot warned us not to be alarmed. After we seemingly just scraped over the mountain pass we were headed directly for another mountain! Then the pilot did a stomach churning "dive and turn" into another valley that we followed to Milford Sound. That plane ride was the best small plane experience I ever had (even if it was terrifying). The views were unsurpassed.

The plane followed the valley to the beautiful Milford Sound and flew out over it. We saw that famous fjord from the air and it was just as gorgeous as the mountains near Mt Cook had been earlier. NZ was majestic in the extreme. We did a 180 degree turn and flew back toward the small landing strip by the port. Waterfalls cascaded off the mountains and the iconic Mitre Peak stuck up serenely out of the sound. The landing was soft and easy.

A bus waited to transfer us to the ferry landing. We were booked on the Milford Wanderer on an overnight cruise up through Milford Sound. It wasn't leaving until 5:00pm though, so we had almost the entire day to explore the area. We dropped our bags by the boat.

Milford Sound

We decided to take a short trek near the port, but first we had some coffee and put on insect repellent. The sandflies were pestilential. Luckily, they seemed concentrated along the coast. As we walked inland, they disappeared. It took 45 minutes alone to walk the empty road to reach the trek turn off. The path was rough and still muddy. Brian was having a hard time (still concerned about his ankle). The walk gave occasional views of the rainforest - a great juxtaposition. The forest itself was dense and mossy with many ferns. The walk was beautiful (if difficult).

Brian felt frustrated we couldn't move any faster and I was still worried about his ankle flaring up again (after finally returning to mostly normal). We ate the lunch that we bought by the boat dock and walked some more. The path, however, was getting more and more difficult. In the end, returning was the best option. After a short wait at the port, the Kiwi Experience passengers showed up. We received our boarding passes and got on the Wanderer.

January 7, 1993 QF46 over the Tasman Sea

The Milford Wanderer was a completely pleasant surprise. We had a four-person room with bunk beds and large showers. Everything looked new. Our expectations boarding were low, but since the weather was unusually clear and the ship actually "good", the cruise ended up being another high point of the time in NZ. We saw a multitude of waterfalls and the view of Mitre Peak (the famous mountain of Milford Sound) was breathtaking. The sound was dead flat, too. In fact, even the Tasman Sea was still (very rare), We made a short excursion on a small powerboat and the ship's first-mate showed us interesting rock formations and undersea life (visible in the clear water).

On the way out, we were served a nice bowl of soup and later a decent dinner (including dessert). While on the boat we talked a lot with Barbara from the UK, Friedman and Nikki, and of course Marc. The experience was laid back compared to other New Zealand adventure activities - not much to do on the boat except relax and take in all that gorgeous scenery. We saw seals and even heard them "fishing" at night near the boat. A few people went kayaking on the mirror-like water.

When we anchored for the night, it quickly turned cold. I caught up with my travel journal and Brian and I talked more to Marc. I went to bed early, but I had "lost" my bunk because I hadn't put my bag on it. I felt unhappy, but resigned. We were only sleeping one night on the boat - it wasn't worth making a fuss. The next morning we woke early, showered, and disembarked to get on the bus back to Queenstown.

Milford Sound to Queenstown

It rained the entire ride to Queenstown, but I didn't care. We had two fabulous weather days on Milford Sound which was unheard of. The bonus of the rain on the return was seeing the many waterfalls streaming off the mountains all around us. We made stops, but most of the passengers were from Kiwi Experience and were all heartily sick of bus rides. We simply wanted to get to Queenstown. Add to that, I had an upset stomach most of the day.

We talked more to Friedman and Nikki (he is nice, but she is really unpleasant - I can't figure her out). The bus stopped at Te Anau - a calm place in a lovely setting. Then we had bad tasting barbeque at Mavora Lakes - I tried a few bites and decided against making my stomach even angrier. After Mavora the road entered some sheep country of endless barren hills (so unlike the green forests that cover a lot of the South Island). The bus was constantly stopping and starting and the driver had to open and close the farm gates repeatedly. We arrived at Lake Wakatipu just in time to board the old coal steamer, TSS Earnslaw that would take us back to Queenstown. The views were beautiful, but we were all in sensory overload by that time.

Brian, Marc, and I were very happy to return. It had been an intense couple of days.

Queenstown (again)

Brian, Marc, and I found a room to ourselves and got settled. Then we headed out for Mexican food at Saguaro. That turned out to be an adventure because after being told many places in NZ are BYO, we brought beer. The restaurant informed us it was only BYO wine. So, we went out again and bought some wine and returned. I felt tired (and a little angry), but we ended up having a nice dinner. I was stuffed: good food was not a given on the trip.

We shopped for breakfast food for the next morning and then had ice cream. Brian and Marc always joked that "there was always room for ice cream". I felt like Brian and I had put on weight during the trip from ice cream alone. We returned to the room and slept. The following day was the very long ride to Christchurch.

Queenstown to Christchurch

We woke up the next day in a rush (and slight panic) to be ready for the bus departure. Then the bus didn't leave on time. I was going to be so happy for the Kiwi Experience to finish. The bus stopped at all the hostels around town picking up passengers and then we we were on our way. We again passed by the bungy bridge where Brian and Marc had jumped (it was the single most famous place in Queenstown) and a nearby fruit market. After that began the real ride to Christchurch.

The drive started through brown hills. We climbed over the Lindis Pass - quite high actually - but it looked nothing like the NZ Alps farther west. The bus was beginning to show some signs of impending breakdown. We all crossed our fingers.

In fact, the bus had many of the original crew from Wellington south. There were people to chat with (and share stories). The bus passed a huge hydro-electric project that was glacier fed. The man-made lakes were turquoise - they looked straight out of the Caribbean. At the Mt Cook viewpoint, the mountain was obscured (we had hoped for one last look). We stayed by the hydro plant for some time taking photos. Later the bus followed one of the canals which fed the system. It was all very impressive.

We stopped to pick up some people who had gone to Mt Cook and then set off across the Canterbury Plain toward Christchurch. After we exited the hills, a pancake flat plain continued the rest of the journey. The ride felt long and after being in the mountains for days, the flat land appeared strange. The bus continued to show signs of breaking down, but we managed to arrive in Christchurch. Brian, Marc, and I checked into a shitty room at "Backpackers on the Square". Marc and my discussions were becoming increasingly "serious" and I promised him we could have a much longer (and more private) conversation after we got off the bus.

Brian and I were relieved to be in our departure point from New Zealand at last! Even though we would feel sad to leave NZ and our new friend Marc.

Christchurch

We breathed a huge sigh of relief to be rid of "Kiwi Experience" - a bus, a tour, and a driver we all loved to hate. The vacation, however, was not over yet.

January 9, 1993 Over the North Pacific (on the way to New York)

That evening Brian, Marc, and I walked around Christchurch and we explained to Marc about our relationship. He had become a friend and quite attached to us and we wanted to be honest. We were surprised that he gave no outward sign of understanding that Brian and I were "together", so we explained it. He honestly did not care and admitted that after our many bus ride conversations he suspected as much. With that done, we invited him to come visit us in New York (something we almost never did) any time (with his girlfriend).

Christchurch was absolutely dead at night. We went for pizza at a New York Pizzeria run by an American woman and her Kiwi husband. The interior was decorated with all kinds of NYC stuff making Brian and I feel a twinge of homesickness. The pizza was just OK, but lightyears better than the usual "pizza" we ate in NZ (absolute shit). The woman explained to us that all the shops would already be closed, so there seemed little point in continuing to walk around. We briefly considered a movie and found we had missed the last show.

Brian wanted to visit a spa, but Marc hoped we would spend the last night together with us. Normally, Brian and I would have wanted the last night with our new friend, too, but time was limited and the spa looked very interesting and unusual - we couldn't pass that up. In a compromise, we went back to the backpacker hotel bar and had drinks with Friedman and Nikki (it was Friedman's birthday) and some others from the bus. Then Brian and I excused ourselves and headed to the spa. It turned out to be a washout (we should have stayed drinking) because not many people were there. We returned to the hotel and slept.

The room was abysmal, one of the worst of the trip. Seven of us in one room with a leak in the roof and a stinking carpet. No hot water was available either. What a final night in NZ considering we had at least decent places to sleep the whole trip.

The next morning we got up a little late, checked out, and went to look for Swann Dry clothes. Brian got an overcoat and a casual jacket. Marc couldn't find anything he liked in his size. After shopping, we walked along the Avon River in town - it was pleasant. After that, we continued to the Botanical Gardens. The gardens were excellent (perhaps the best part of Christchurch). We had to hurry back to the cathedral square to see the famous "Wizard", a local celebrity. The man was a 60s throwback, intellectual comic. We listened to his monologue for a short time (it was mildly amusing) and then got lunch. Our lunch venue was in some Gothic style building that appeared to be part of a former university (or school?). Its most recent incarnation was as a school for the arts. As usual, the food was mediocre, but the setting was great!

Christchurch was a lovely city with lots of trees and parks - very green. Because we were so impressed by it, we returned to the Botanical Gardens for another short stroll. After that, we completed our final last-minute shopping back in town.

We bid Marc farewell (we were very sad to part ways - we both liked him a lot). We sincerely hoped to meet in New York as he passed through New York on his way back to Germany. He had been a great traveling companion.

Getting to the airport was easy and our Qantas flight to Sydney was on time. The time in New Zealand ended without much fanfare. We were already focused on our next destination: Sydney.

Wrap Up:

Upon reading these notes and reflecting on the individual posts I later wrote about the New Zealand trip, I am struck by the human element in my journal. We met so many people along the way. In the case of Marc, he became a life-long friend. Everyone else was just "people we hung out with for a time". We also caught up with our friends Jo & Jamie from the big trip a year earlier. Unfortunately, over time we lost contact with them (especially after their daughter was born). That, however, was usual for us - people always change after having kids. For how much traveling Brian and I did in our lives, we actually rarely made lasting friendships from those experiences. Based on speaking to others who travel a lot, I think that is the norm.

After returning to New York, Jo & Jamie encouraged us to write to Kiwi Experience (they found an address for us) and we wrote a very scathing review. It could have been a lot better, actually. Were we just unlucky with our driver? At times it was disorganized, and at others maybe even dangerous.

We actually had a lot of bad weather on the trip (which I forgot), but New Zealand is green for a reason. It rains a lot. When it is good weather there, the scenery is indescribably beautiful. When it is not - it is dull. The country is all about the outdoors after all.

The food during our visit was extremely bland - in fact, we joked that Kiwis had a spice called "Flavor-away" to make sure that everything tasted bland. The food started to bother us by the end of the trip. I wrote a lot about food mainly because it was so shockingly tasteless.

Kiwis as a people were amongst the most friendly we met on all our travels - disarmingly so. On our trip to NZ, if we met anyone unpleasant, they were likely a foreigner. After coming from Manhattan, it almost seemed impossible for everyone to be "that nice". Kiwis remain in my top five most-friendly people I ever met.

In sum, it was one of the best trips we did: we saw and experienced a lot that was never surpassed elsewhere. We never felt the need to return because we had seen and done what we wanted. However, I always recommended NZ highly to people as a travel destination - especially for young people!