Jaffa Road. June 2018
Shabbat in Israel is legendary. Everything shuts down. I had heard tales from New York City where ultra-orthodox neighborhoods became little islands of religious intolerance and outsiders only broke Shabbat rules at their peril. Honestly, those stories were almost like urban legends to me - weird tales of New York City. I never really believed them. Now I was in Jerusalem of all places - I was prepared for Shabbat. I knew what was going to happen. I ate breakfast in the hotel Saturday morning (hotels were exempted from the rules) and walked out to nearby, usually bustling, Jaffa Road. I was the only person on the street.
The city, in fact, did totally switch off. A few people remained on the streets, but overall the look was "post-apocalyptic". It was only one day out of my week's stay - I couldn't complain and it wasn't a total set-back. What it did remind me of was how simply intolerant people were in the whole region. Having survived multiple Ramadans in Saudi Arabia (of which I hated every single day), just one day a week in Israel didn't seem all that bad. Nonetheless, Israel was a multi-ethnic country and having the majority's religious beliefs forced on everyone never settled well with me. I love Jerusalem - it might be my favorite city in the whole Middle East, but I am not sure if living there long-term might not have eventually driven me nuts dealing with the craziness of "Shabbat rules" being foisted on me once a week.
I googled "restaurants open during Shabbat" and came upon a burger joint. The walk there was pleasant and peaceful. I was far from the only customer and had a nice lunch there. I give the Israelis one thing - I was not in fear of the "religious police" showing up to arrest the owner and diners for some kind of divine transgression. I wondered how hard it was for the owner to keep open during that day of holiness each week? I didn't ask. I was simply grateful to find a place to eat lunch.
Like Friday mornings in the Arab world, Shabbat is a lovely time to wander the empty streets of Jerusalem. Quiet and peaceful, Saturday morning and afternoon must provide a time for non-observant residents to enjoy the quietude that envelops the city.
I liked my quiet day in Jerusalem. I am just not sure I liked everything attached to it.