Italy: Sanremo

February 2019

Sanremo has already enjoyed its five minutes of fame (actually several decades).

The Sanremo Casino (Casino Municipale di Sanremo) opened in 1905 and has operated continuously since then with the exception of the years of World War II. For much of its history, the casino was tolerated or granted exceptions to Italian gambling laws in order to allow the resort to compete with the casino towns in nearby France and Monaco.

(Wikipedia)

The city used to be one of the anchors of the Italian Riviera in direct competition with Nice and Monaco at its peak. These days, it still hosts a casino, but the air is of a place forgotten by time. For me, the best part of the city was climbing through the labyrinth of covered passageways between its cathedral and the lower town. San Remo exceeded all my expectations - it retained just enough of glory to be beautiful, but not enough to attract hoards of visitors.

The city's venerable casino is beautiful and still in use. The beach front is lovely, but not a crazy popular destination either. I could see myself enjoying the summer there because the place has all the best things of the Italian Riviera minus being an "in" place (except for the geriatric set).

Just up the tracks (not far at all - 2o kilometers) is Ventimiglia, the old border crossing with France. I was tempted to visit, but I had plans to stop in other towns along the way back to Genoa. Time did not permit.

Sanremo - definitely a place I would return and tarry if only to feel the echoes of its glamor as a playground for the rich and famous.