Returning Home: Sendai to Dubrovnik (travel notes)

What follows are the notes I took on my long journey home from Sendai to the US. It includes many other journeys of which I have already written. These notes have been incorporated into posts of that trip [Round the World I}

1987

March 29 Nikko Line (Japan)

Nikko, Tochigi, Japan

I left Sendai after spending my last night in Mark's apartment. Ironically, that was also the first place I stayed when I arrived in Sendai. Ono-san, Shin-chan, and Hoshi-kun took me to the station and after an awkward amount of waiting, I was finally leaving. I must admit it felt good to get away, but even as I write the fact that I will NOT return hasn't quite hit me.

I got off the train at Utsunomiya to see Nikko (a place I always meant to visit but never did). I had a helluva time storing my bags - there are too many and they are too heavy. Finally, I put them in a railway office with the help of a policewoman. Then, I was off to Nikko where I caught a bus to Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls. It probably looks better in the fall, but in the winter I wasn't that impressed. It is a pleasant place if one can avoid all the touristy stuff. Kegon Falls was a let down, but maybe after the earthquake, it really did change how the water dropped. There didn't seem to be that much water. Lake Chuzenji was much better.

The shrines that Nikko is famous for are splendid. Even I, who can barely stand to look at another shrine, was impressed. So much detail and color, yet tastefully done, the shrine looked amazing. Far more tasteful than those in China. Unfortunately, I was in a rush since everything was about to close. Daiyuin-byo was very nice, but I preferred Toshogu. The area holds a lot to see, but those two structures are the highlights.

I am rushing to Utsonomiya, getting my bags, and going to Yokohama to stay with David tonight. I am also to meet a guy named Take, too. I met him through his publishing company, Addison-Wesley. He seems nice enough, but I don't know what to expect. He has given me many mixed signals in the past. In any case, it looks like I will be late to meet him in Shibuya...

March 31 Matsunaga's room, Iwakura, Kyoto (Japan)

Tokyo/Yokohama, Japan

I met Take in Jiyugaoka, Tokyo. We had okonomiyaki and talked a lot. He is sending more mixed signals. I said I'd call him on the way back when I pass through Yokohama again. Later I met David and went to a bar "3 Box" and we had some drinks. I met his latest fling who was pretty drunk. It was hard to made any kind of judgement about him. Anyway, David and I had some good conversations. He wants to meet in Hong Kong and go to China with me. If that is what he wants, fine, but he often changes his mind. I have left the majority of my stuff at his place and plan to travel light through Japan and onto Korea.

Nagoya, Japan

The following day David and I woke late and talked some more. I got my act together and took the train to Nagoya where I finally took photos of the castle and Atsuta Shrine. The shrine was a letdown. It looks like Meiji Shrine in Tokyo except there is no entry past the gate. The grounds were pleasant, but unfortunately I was pressed for time due to the late start.

Kobe, Japan

I arrived in Kobe late to meet Madeleine. We ate Middle Eastern food which made for a pleasant change. We discussed our upcoming travel plans and had a big discussion on marriage given her impending nuptials to Joe. I left Kobe late and arrived in Kyoto very late.

Kyoto, Japan

Matsunaga picked me up downtown and we came back to his room for a small party with his friends Iga and Komori. It was quite thoughtful, but I was tired.

The following day we got up late and then ate even later at a very crowded Shakey's Pizza for their famous 550 yen lunch. After that we took in Nijo Castle and I was pleasantly surprised. I wished I had seen it before. The grounds are large and the buildings, beautiful with well-kept interiors. It looked far better than the usual castle, temple, or similar. Tonight is to be another party I think. Tomorrow I will meet Kimio on the shinkansen for our trip to Kyushu.

April 1 (Hirado Youth Hostel, Nagasaki, Japan)

Karatsu, Saga, Japan

I woke up and got on the shinkansen, one of the new double-decker types - very nice. I slept on the train. Upon arrival at Hakata, Kimio wasn't there, so I continued on to Karatsu alone. That coastline was still very scenic, but it was cloudy and not as nice as the first time. I got something to eat in Karatsu and checked out local pottery shops (locally famous). Some of it was quite lovely. Kimio arrived on the next train. Apparently he had to stand all night as the Hakkoda Night Express was full. It started to rain after we left Karatsu and didn't let up.

Hirado, Nagasaki, Japan

We arrived at Hirado-guchi and ate in a small cafeteria. We called the youth hostel, but it was not possible for them to pick us up so we splurged on a taxi (actually not terribly expensive). If tomorrow is good weather (looking doubtful), this place will be great! The youth hostel manager has been extremely surly. It was nice to meet Kimio - I think we will get along fine.

April 2 (Nagasaki Prefectural Youth Hostel, Nagasaki)

Hirado City was pleasant with lots of leftover relics from early Christians. In some ways it felt better than Nagasaki. I liked it, but it was overcast. The cruise to Kyujuku-shima was pleasant, but not spectacular. Finally the weather cleared up.

We continued on to Nagasaki. Sasebo was surprisingly nice. We passed by the US Naval Base and I listened for a short time to FEN (the US radio station on base). The ride toward Nagasaki took in many views of Omura Bay which were pleasant.

Nagasaki, Japan

We arrived in Nagasaki and checked into the youth hostel. We walked to Glover Park where we enjoyed some rose wine followed up with sparkling wine atop Mt Inasa. We walked a LOT that day and felt dead tired. But, it was great to be back in Nagasaki!

April 3 (Shimabara Youth Hostel, Nagasaki, Japan)

We woke late (for a youth hostel - 9:00am). I went to call Mom and Dad at the Tokyu Hotel. I stopped at Oura Church again. I like that area in spite of the tourism. Still no news on a university .... no news is good news? I returned to the youth hostel, got my bags, bought a small souvenir of Nagasaki and boarded a bus to Mogi in order to reach the Amakusa Islands. The bus ride to Mogi was literally over the mountain. I was surprised to see how much Nagasaki had spread up the mountainside - the whole way to the top! It was so un-Japanese.

Amakusa Islands

I barely made it on the boat, and then enjoyed a pleasant ride. The weather turned sunny. I met a student of Buddhism and we walked for a long time. We arrived in Tomioka and I boarded a bus for Sakitsu Cathedral (church). The ride along the sea was spectacular - all national park and I could see why. Even from the bus window the views were great, especially between Oe-town and Sakitsu. I would love to return for a swim.

The mountains surrounded a small bay with clear, blue water. The church is set in fishing village just below a shrine (whose cherry blossoms were in full bloom). The church spire stood in stark contrast to the traditional houses and masts of the fishing boats.

I returned via the same route and continued to Oniike port (which gave great views of Unzen). There I boarded another ferry to Kuchinotsu where I could take the train to Shimabara. I was late to meet Kimio. He had stayed in Nagasaki for the day to go shopping while I galavanted around. He has been very understanding so far.

Shimabara, Kumamoto, Japan

Tomorrow up and early to see Mt Aso. Maybe this time it won't rain.

April 4 (Beppu Youth Hostel, Beppu, Oita, Japan)

After receiving rather condescending behavior from the staff at the Shimabara Youth Hostel and quick (very quick) trip to the castle (in full bloom with cherry blossoms), we jumped on the ferry for Misumi. The ride was a pleasant with great views as the last one.

Kumamoto, Japan

We had breakfast in Misumi while waiting for the train. We rode to Kumamoto and saw the castle. The grounds were at their peak for cherry blossoms and was as beautiful as I remembered. Unfortunately, it was a Saturday and the weather was perfect (70F and sunny), so the park was packed with partiers for "hanami" (flower viewing parties). We didn't stick around. We found a Shakey's Pizza for their famous 500 yen lunch, had a few beers, and returned to the train station. We soon were on our way to Mt Aso.

Mt Aso, Kumamoto, Japan

Upon reaching Akamizu Station and while waiting for the bus, I called David. He confirmed that he would meet me in Hong Kong and we would travel through China together. I couldn't believe he actually bought the ticket. I'll have to see how that develops.

On the way to the top of Mt Aso, we got stuck in a traffic jam. The bus was literally empty except for me and Kimio and three young women. The ride was wonderful with great views of the mountain and the outer rim of the old caldera. It was hard to believe it was all one volcano at one time. The top was packed with people, but we pressed on and took the cable car to the very peak and peered into the crater. It was exciting (and scary) to think it could blow at any minute (there were "eruption shelters" scattered all around for that very purpose. People have actually been killed there.

We returned to an older, grass-filled crater that resembles a large bowl. Kimio and I rested in the grass under the sun for about an hour. It was wonderful. We boarded the bus again to the train and continued on to Beppu. We were happy to reach its onsen and relax.

April 5 (Kampu Ferry, Sea of Japan)

Beppu, Oita, Japan

We woke and took another hot spring bath at the youth hostel and then took a bus to the station. En route I was accosted by a young woman who insisted on knowing every detail of my past and future travels. We left our bags at the train station and went to have a famous "sunaburo" (sand-bath) at Takewara Onsen.

The woman attendant was not shy at all about seeing me and Kimio naked and chatted up a storm. She was nice but became bothersome. It felt very nice and since my hemorrhoids had flared up, it helped a lot. We returned to the station and decided to depart as we could think of nothing else to do in Beppu with limited time. Strangely, we found no eating place open and available near the station. It was Sunday and many shops were closed (we found that strange because in Sendai they would have been open). Finally, we located a lunch spot, ate, and then boarded the next train toward Kokura. We were headed to Shimonoseki back on Honshu.

Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi, Japan

After a change in Kokura, we arrived in Shimonoseki to wait for the ferry to Busan, Korea. The weather was splendid and the area near the station in spite of its many factories had pleasant scenery. Kimio was suffering from a lot of anxiety about his first trip out of Japan. Once we boarded, he calmed down a lot. We met some fellow-travelers onboard headed to our first destination, too. They were very nice guys.

Korea (April 6 - 12)

I have written about this portion of the trip in Korea: a blow through visit of the Hermit Kingdom. The original journal entries are appended.

April 13 (Hiroshima to Yokohama, Japan)

Shimonoseki to Miyajima/Hiroshima, Japan (train)

The ferry from Busan again waited a long time in the harbor before docking. We breezed through immigration and customs (I was prepared for the worst). I met some nice US Navy guys on the boat - they were on their way to Sasebo Naval Base. We enjoyed a few beers together. Kimio and I took the local train from Shim0noseki to Miyajima -ugh! 3.5 hours but we got a few good views of the Inland Sea not visible from the shinkansen. We talked a lot on the ride as those were some of our last hours together.

We only visited the shrine at Miyajima and had a bite to eat (oyster udon - yummy). Then we moved on to Hiroshima.

Hiroshima, Japan

We headed directly to the Peace Park and Kimio ran (literally) around to see all the sights. I relaxed having seen it before.

Hiroshima to Nagoya to Yokohama, Japan (shinkansen)

We were lucky enough to board one of the ultra-new trains on the way back toward Tokyo. We ate in the 2nd floor dining car - something I always wanted to do. It was expensive, but fun. The food actually wasn't that great, but still we enjoyed it. We parted ways in Nagoya because the train was not stopping in Yokohama, so I had to transfer.

We had a very typical Japanese goodbye - very drawn out. Kimio is a very good guy at heart and made a good travel mate. I was on my way to meet David G. It will be good to "relax" a little before heading to Taiwan

April 14 (David's apartment, Yokohama, Japan)

Yokohama, Japan

It was very cold all day. I mailed a package back home and made a few travel-related phone calls. I have the sniffles again - damn Japanese weather! It will take 10 days to get my Soviet visa in Beijing - shit. That means re-planning a lot of things. Tomorrow I fly to Taiwan. It is my last night in Japan, but it was uneventful.

April 15 (Taipei YMCA, Taiwan)

My sinuses throbbing I went to Narita Airport on the YCAT bus. As usual, I had extra time in the airport to kill. The flight was smooth and uneventful and the plane was half empty. I spent most of the time planning/worrying about the arrival in Taipei. I hadn't had much time to think about it previously. I caught one last glimpse of Mt Fuji as we flew by, a fitting end to my time in Japan.

Taiwan (April 15 - 23)

I have written about this portion of the trip in Taiwan: the start of a long journey. The original journal entries are appended.

April 25 (Posada de Coloane, Coloane Island, Macao) 30C!

Taipei to Hong Kong

I managed to leave Taiwan easily, but my bag is so heavy - ugh. My shampoo bottle broke and all all over everything (including this journal, staining the pages). What bad luck. However, I ended up getting bumped up to business class (nice!) I am certainly not used to such treatment.

Hong Kong

Hong Kong was HOT. I went downtown and checked some information at STA (my favorite travel agent there). Later I met Lisa (whom I met at Christmas vacation) at the Duty Free shop. We had dinner later - she is an extremely talking person, but nice. The only Chinese local I know. I finally met David (his flight was late) and we traveled smoothly to the Macao Ferry Terminal. We arrived in Macao late and didn't make it to our hotel, Posada de Coloane, until 1:00am!

Coloane Island, Macao

The weather has been lovely. We woke up and I checked out the beach. I got sunburned (badly) - shit. David and I walked around Macao downtown and had a bite at the Bella Vista Hotel. The terrace was nice, but there was a chill wind and the service was abominable. The view makes it worth it. We went back to the hotel for dinner where the Filipino head waiter turned out to be gay. I wasn't so surprised, but David is thrilled. David ended up with him (unsurprisingly). I found the guy conceited, but still nice - he was attractive anyway. We stayed up until 3:00am chatting. Shit, I was so tired and only slept a bit.

I woke up slowly the next day to get to the bank to change some money. Tomorrow we travel to Hong Kong. David and I have been getting along well all things considered. I just get tired of his commenting on every guy we see. He is out now tanning with the waiter!

April 28 (White Swan Hotel, Guangzhou, China)

We had a lovely last meal at the Posada, a seafood dish - delish! We said goodbye to our Filipino friends, Elmer and Robert. Before we knew it, we were back in Hong Kong and checking into the Waterloo Road YMCA.

Hong Kong (again)

Our hotel is nice and very convenient to the MTR. I bought a ton of silk and a tablecloth for my mom. - maybe no more gifts or I will run out of money. I picked up some shorts, jeans, and sunglasses quite cheap. David and I journeyed to the Peak at night. It was a little cloudy but the view was still lovely. Back in town we ate a good lunch at an Australian pub and then had dinner at a terrible spaghetti shop. We tried out "Disco, Disco", a gay bar recommended to me by several people. I found it incredibly dull. We missed the last MTR and had to take a taxi which ended up being a mess.

The next day was extremely busy getting visas and travel stuff together, I had little time to relax. We changed money, applied for our China tourist visas, and I finally got some information on the Trans-Siberian Railway. David bought a Beijing-Hong Kong plane ticket. The trip was really happening.

We had Indian food for lunch (tasted great!) but the service was S-L-O-W. We bought our tickets to Guangzhou and I picked up my travel refund from Voyages Jules Verne (600 pounds) wow! We got our visas back and I found out I have to return to Hong Kong before I take the Trans-Siberian (shit), but that means I will have LOTS of time in China. I was thinking of trying Tibet...

I met Lisa (my HK friend) again for dinner. I was so tired. We shopped a little afterward, but David and I turned in early to catch the ferry to Guangzhou early in the morning the next day. In the morning we had a difficult time finding a taxi and David, as usual, was doing everything at the last minute making me get a little testy. But, we made it to China, no sweat.

Guangzhou, China

The White Swan Hotel has really gone up in price because there is a trade fair in town. We had to pay 333 RMB as opposed to just 120 last January. Nonetheless, it is a lovely hotel.

We had lunch and then went to buy airplane tickets for Guilin. The CAAC office was packed! What a nightmare. We felt certain we would never get a ticket, but after an hour's wait, we were successful. Tomorrow at 4:45pm we are off to Guilin. We came back to the hotel and then explored Qing Ping Market, but it was mostly closed. As it was afternoon, I assumed it was mostly a morning place. We could try again tomorrow. David must see it again

David is a little rude with his camera and can be a terrible tourist, but I must remember it is his vacation, too. If he wants to act that way, that is his choice. We ate a nice dinner at Yan Yan Restaurant near the waterfront: frogs legs and noodles was our exotic dish. The taste was good, but there wasn't much meat. It was tasty! My hemorrhoids have flared up with a passion, so my mood is off.

I have great expectations of Guilin.

May 1 (Li River, Guilin, China)

We discovered (thank God) that China was on daylight saving time and we hadn't changed our watches. No wonder everything was finished (like breakfast) before we arrived. Anyway, we woke up, missed the breakfast buffet, and went out to see Qing Ping Market. After that we saw a Confucian Temple. The temple was actually peaceful and a nice escape from the chaotic city. We returned to the hotel and took the buffet lunch (fabulous) - the turkey was excellent. Then we realized we still had the wrong time!

We rushed to the airport only to find our flight had been delayed for three hours. So we waited... Finally, on an old, non-aircon plane full of Japanese tourists we arrived in Guilin at dusk just in time to see all those jagged peaks before nightfall. It was exciting and impressive!

Guilin, China

We were met (attacked?) by Mr Hu of the Guilin City Tourist Association (a branch of CTS - China Travel Service who got our visas). He helped us check into a hotel and plan our itinerary. Very nice, but I didn't trust him. He was "too nice". David was certain I was overreacting until dinner when we had to pay for ourselves, Mr. Hu, and the driver. Luckily, the dinner was great (a snake-like fish and some other tasty dishes) and cheap. We were put on a city bus tour for the next day. We felt exhausted!

With an early start we were off to see the sights of Guilin City. The things to see and do in the city itself were tame: a few good viewpoints - Solitary Beauty was the best; some caves - Brocade and Whirlpool Hills were both good. The more famous "Reed Flute Cave" was crowded for our visit. Not only that, but the weather was hot and there was a line to enter. At least we managed to get a local-priced ticket. Due to the long wait, we literally ran through the cave (in spite of the crowds) because we didn't want to miss the bus. The driver then showed up an hour late, so we had rushed for nothing!

We got to know some others on the tour, most of whom were Hong Kong Chinese. Their English wasn't great, but they helped us frequently. We all ate lunch together, saw a few more sights, and finally returned to our respective hotels. Most of the city sights were dull - the best bits are out in the countryside. Even the famous Reed Flute Cave is poorly lit - too dark in some places and too bright in others. It actually is a nice cavern and the views from the neighboring hill are beautiful with many rice paddies on the plain below. We had dinner at the La-La Cafe as per suggested in the Northeast Asia guidebook. The owner spoke some English, the food was excellent, and (again) it was very cheap. We went to bed early to prepare for the river cruise the next day.

In the morning, the bus arrived late (of course), but we finally made it to the boat and got underway. At first, the scenery was tame and the interesting mountains appeared far away. We sat with 2 Brits and 2 Swiss. Everyone was very nice. The Swiss people had traveled extensively and gave some good pointers about travel in the USSR. It was not all positive, either. Lunch was good, but the Swiss people had not opted for it, so it felt awkward eating in front of them. The first 2-3 hours of the cruise were not so exciting, but just as lunch was served the views became fantastic. It truly was scenic and the weather turned sunny. Why did the best scenery come out just as we sat down to lunch? Anyway, we talked a lot and then relaxed. The scenery tapered off again and became just pleasant. At the end of the boat journey we were all bused back to Guilin City.

David has been getting on my nerves, but that is nothing new! It is still OK to travel with him. I am sick of hearing him talk about Japan (as if he is an expert). Some of the things he told the Swiss people were almost completely untrue. And the gay stuff, ugh. I know he can't help the way he is (and I cannot change him), but he just gets on my nerves.

We hope we can get our tickets tonight to Beijing without a problem.

May 2 (Near Wuhan, China -on the train)

We got the tickets for our (long) journey to Beijing.

Final thoughts on Guilin: it IS great and the scenery IS fantastic, but for me sharing it with a host of other on a tour bus and then aboard a fleet of tour boats detracted. Still.... I am happy I went. Yes, it does look like a postcard.

The last night in Guilin was just lots of hanging out and waiting. After we got our tickets, we met the Japanese guys from the river trip. They had to take a taxi back to Guangzhou to catch their flight to Japan. Poor guys - a 10 hour ride (1,200 Yuan fare).

After dinner, we vainly searched for a mug for David (for the train ride) and me an "English Attack" guy who wanted to practice with us. He ended up being helpful at least. We never did find David's mug - the store had closed. We hung around the hotel until they told us we had to leave. Finally, we got on the train (very late). It was hot at first and we had to sleep with the windows open.

Guilin to Beijing, China (train)

The open window made the journey very noisy. We riding together with a very nice grandma and grandpa. They have been very kind to us. We need to spend yet one more night on the train and then in the morning it arrives in Beijing.

May 4 (Tien tan Sports Hotel, Beijing, China)

On the train we befriended Bee Cheng (we called him BJ), a really wonderful guy about our age with terrible English, but an outgoing personality. We talked to him lots on the train (and grandma & grandpa). As we approached Beijing, the scenery was absolutely flat. David said it looked like Alberta and I said Nebraska. Such wide, open spaces. Grandpa suggested a hotel before we arrived.

Beijing, China

BJ came with us to find a hotel. The one Grandpa suggested was closed or under renovation. The next one we tried was full. Then we couldn't find a taxi - poor BJ was trying to help us and was beside himself with anxiety. After a few more unlucky attempts and a horrible ride on the Beijing subway, we found the Tiantan Sports Hotel. It turned out to be a very nice place. I would likely stay again on my next trip through Beijing, too.

We had lunch (and felt exhausted) but we pushed on to Qianmen Street, Tiananmen Square, and the Forbidden City. For me Tiananmen Square was moving... The Forbidden City is the palace of the East without a doubt. Korea has done a better job of upkeep on the whole and its city gates are better, but for sheer magnitude, the Forbidden City trumps all. We walked through Tiananmen Square, saw Mao's Mausoleum, and later his portrait looking down on us from the main palace gate. Stalin and Lenin were off to the side. It was soooo Communist.

The Forbidden City was packed (it was a Sunday), but it literally swallowed up the crowds. To see everything would no doubt take an entire day, but half a day can give a good overview. The complex is just so vast.

We had a hell of time with transport - bus stops were so hard to find, but riding them was a breeze (if they weren't too crowded). We decided to take a taxi tour to the Great Wall the next day as it was little different from the price of two bus tour tickets. That ended up being quite an experience too -- more to follow.

May 7 (Taiyuan Station, Shanxi, China)

Oh my God, just get me out of China in one piece...

I need to return to David and my adventures at "the Wall". Our taxi arrived on time, but we were slightly late departing due to David's difficulties reconfirming his flight to Hong Kong. He had to do it in person. Anyway, it worked out and soon we were on our way to the Ming Tombs. They must be the biggest waste of time in all of China.

Ming Tombs

We drove the base of some mountains north of the city where the desert begins. Passing through some marvelous gates and down an avenue of statuary, our hopes were high - then nothing. A dam nearby reduced the river in the area to a pathway of stones (not an improvement in an already desert region). In the foothills we could make out the gateways of various mausoleums. Some appeared in good repair, other not. That was the last interesting sight. We arrived at the one "open" tomb to find the ultimate tourist trap. We ate some lunch there. It wasn't bad but we also had to pay for the driver and the parking fee! Then he announced that he had to be back to the city by 5:30pm (which he told us after we were on the way and we had paid him).

We walked around the open tomb, but didn't go inside. For one thing, it was ticketed and the other, it was packed. All we cared about was the Great Wall and we wanted to get there as soon as possible. In retrospect, it might have been nice to explore some of the more remote tombs in the hills, but they all don't amount to much except one big gate - the remainder is underground.

The Great Wall of China @ Badaling

The ride to the wall was exciting. The road climbs off the plains into the foothills. Glimpses of the wall appear on an off in the distance. In that section, the wall is a collection of old, smaller spurs rather than one, massive line. The mountains get higher and higher. Just when it seems they are far too high to hold anything like a wall, it appears. I had a mix tape of classical music for the taxi ride - Brahms' Academic Festival Overture was playing when we first spotted the Wall. It was an incredible moment to remember.

Unfortunately, that feeling was completely ruined upon arrival at the worst tourist trap in all of China. I couldn't believe the number of people. Did all of China show up for our visit? David and I paid the fee and literally pushed our way through the masses until we were alone at the top of a ridge. It was a long, arduous climb. At the Badaling section of the wall, the right side from the entrance gives the best views. The wind was freezing cold, but we felt great.

The wall was not as huge as I thought it would be - in fact, it is small. The amazing thing is the location, the length, and the age. That combination makes it incredible. We saw fully, partially, and non- restored sections of the Wall. Some of the non-restored parts are difficult to make out. Overall the wall is in a total state of disrepair and only fixed up for tourists in some sections.

We had our fill and returned to Beijing (by 5:30pm) where I ran all over the place trying to find a ticket out of the city (and to change some money). I found a ticket to Datong for late morning the next day. After that, David and I couldn't find any place to eat. Every place was closed. At that point, I was completely sick of Beijing and truly wanted to leave.

The following morning we visited the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) across from the hotel. It truly was lovely and was crowded even in the early morning. But like the Forbidden City, it swallowed up the crowds with its vast open space. We saw lots of grandmas and grandpas hanging out playing games and singing songs. That really provided a lot of atmosphere to the visit. The interiors of the two main buildings were also marvelous.

Before I knew it, it was time to bid David a hurried goodbye. I was headed off to Datong. When would I next meet David? How would it be traveling alone in China filled my thoughts. As it turned out, none of those fears materialized, yet...

I must break again prematurely. I feel tired and tense and I have much left to relate.

May 8 (Taiyuan to Xi'an, train - steam locomotive)

Beijing to Datong, China (train)

The ride to Datong passed through Badaling and then out across a desert valley where the Great Wall snaked along the mountain ridge. Although it was never close, it could usually be spotted along the way. The section looked completely different from the part at Badaling - I wished I could have seen it up close. A lot of old watchtowers stood along the ridges, too, used to send signals back to Beijing in case of invasion. The train passed small, walled cities and ruins of old towns. There was so much to see - all of it from more than 1,500 years ago. The train ride was truly spectacular.

On the train I met Sachiko & Frank. They would be come my traveling companions for the next 2 days. Frank was a fat, arrogant Brit who turned out to be a nice guy once you got past his exterior. He was a photographer. Sachiko, his live-in girlfriend, was a completely genki (lively) Japanese woman who followed him in his travels. They made a very interesting pair. He often seemed to bully her, but he also looked to be afraid of losing her approval. Frank LOVED Japan (ugh). Gunther from Germany was an interpreter for the EEC. He was the ultimate snob (with some very nice moments as a person). I found him pompous and at times, detestable. He was completely anti-American. But he had traveled... a lot! He spoke of cities I had never heard of on the Tibetan Plateau. In the end, we shared a room.

Datong, China

We arrived in Datong and, with some confusion, all bought onward tickets immediately. I was headed to Xi'an via Taiyuan (only hard seats available - shit). The rest were returning to Beijing. We checked into the hotel - Soviet built, under renovation, and dirty. Frank & Sachiko actually moved after the first night. We found CITS and arranged a taxi tour of the Hanging Temple and the Yungang Caves. We had a late dinner in the hotel restaurant which appalled Gunther (he never ate in such places...). Then we had a lot of discussion about everything. Most of it was Gunther expounding on the evils in this world or his travels (the latter being quite interesting). Finally, we all went to bed, but I didn't sleep well - too much on my mind.

We were up early and had breakfast at the hotel with CITS. Gunther was attempting to speak Chinese and everyone was laughing. There was MUCH confusion over the taxi. The wanted to stick us on a tour with Hong Kong Chinese, but we finally got our own taxi for the day (which came with certain conditions which we only discovered later). We were off.

To be continued... (I am still not caught up. Too many things are happening and there is no time to write).

May 9 (Renmin Hotel, Xi'an, China)

Datong to the Hanging Temple (taxi)

That taxi ride was just great (not). The driver was on some mysterious timetable and complained constantly about our being "late". We stopped once in the countryside so Gunther could take photos of some cows. The driver was angry. Then we passed through some villages built of mud right into the mountains. We convinced the driver to stop at one so we could take photos. It was fascinating. The scenery looked a lot like the American Southwest. Our final destination, the Hanging Temple, was a bit of a letdown.

The Hanging Temple

The temple was very interesting but it was not nearly as high up on the cliff face as the photos show AND in the valley where it was built there is a huge dam (with no water?). As with other places, the ride there seemed to be more interesting than the destination. We explored the temple and overstayed our allotted time. The driver was furious and we rocketed back to Datong.

Upon arrival we immediately complained to CITS and the driver's attitude improved for the afternoon. We stopped at the hotel so the driver could eat lunch. We all only wanted drinks, but were served an entire meal (not that good). At this point we were completely sick of everything. The feeling we were constantly being ripped off in a situation out of our control was getting to all of us.

Yungang Grottoes

The afternoon we spent at the caves was very good. The caves are totally impressive. On top lies a fortress where we could climb the walls and its signal tower. Standing in the right place, I could see all the signal towers in a line fade into the distance. The purpose of the towers was to send a message quickly to Beijing in case of attack. Everything was at least 1,500 years old, too. We left Gunther there to take more photos (he takes many). On the way back to town we stopped at a temple with a famous dragon screen (Ming Dynasty).

Back in Datong I had a few beers with Frank & Sachiko and then switched to some tea. Frank is a talker... I met an English couple on the return to the hotel who were on their way to Lhasa. It was pleasant to talk to them. Back at the hotel, I waited for Gunther, but he never showed up. I went back to the Frank & Sachiko's hotel, picked them up, and we went for dinner at a "people's" restaurant across the street. We had a hell of a time ordering! We finally found a table and who happened to be there? Gunther. We drank beer out of bowls (not so unusual). The food ranged from utterly delicious to horrible. Frank (who is large) does not eat meat and that is a huge challenge in China. We all retired to Frank & Sachiko's hotel where we talked more. Gunther was his usual condescending asshole self. He was occasionally nice when he forgot to put on his "superior" facade. We talked until 1:00am. Gunther and I returned to our hotel to find the door locked and we had to track down the night watchman to let us in.

It had been quite a day.

Datong to Taiyuan to Xian, China (train)

I got up early to catch the train (hard seat for 8 hours) to Taiyuan. I met lots of interesting characters on that journey. A local English teacher "attacked" me with conversation, but he ended up being a very nice guy. He had never been out of Shanxi Province - never seen Beijing nor the ocean! He was on his way to take a test to study more English in Beijing. His English was very stilted but good (lightyears better than most of my students back in Japan). He told me his parents were peasant farmers and his younger brothers (aged 18, 19) worked in the fields. His story brought the "real" China alive for me. He spoke of living conditions before and in the present and his hope for improvement in the future. I learned a LOT!

I felt exhausted on the train and in spite of the hard seat and the soot covering my face and arm by the window (the steam engine was coal-burning), I dozed. That shirt sleeve became filthy and never was totally clean again. The scenery had returned to desert. We passed old, walled cities and fortresses.

Then I met Hu Peng, another "no English but I'm trying" type of guy. He was very kind and wanted to help me get a sleeper to Xi'an. It turned out he did not know what the hell he was doing and we spent over two hours walking all over that city looking for train (or plane) tickets. At one point, I got so disgusted I tried to find transportation to Guangzhou and then leave China! I was getting very frustrated, but I couldn't be angry with someone who was sincerely trying to help. The Advanced Railway Booking Office, CITS, and CAAC were all useless. I ended up buying a hard seat on the train to Xi'an with the hope of upgrading it on board. We ate a great meal for next to nothing - I treated Hu Peng, and then we parted ways at the station. I sat in the station waiting room worried about the ticket when he showed up again. He said he missed his bus so he would sit and wait with me.

Some attendants came to ask for my ticket and Hu Peng explained my situation. I was immediately whisked off to the first class waiting room and given some free materials to read while I waited in comfort. The train finally arrived and a very pleasant young woman who worked in the station took me to the conductor and I got a soft sleeper! I climbed into it and immediately fell into a long, deep sleep.

May 9 (Renmin Hotel, Xi'an, China)

In a complete irony, I woke up on the train and met the people from Voyages Jules Verne who I originally booked to help with the trip. The group was coming from London on their way to Hong Kong - nice group. I don't know if I could have done it. Individual travel is such a bitch, but I also can't complain thus far doing everything on my own.

Xi'an, China

First I tried to book a train back to Guangzhou - two days! forget that. The plane was full. The flight to Hong Kong was far more expensive, but.... I took it. (shit). At any rate, I can leave China tomorrow for a few days. Getting the ticket was completely frustrating and finding a room was worse. The people at the Renmin Hotel told me there were no rooms. The hotel looked like the Hiroshima Atomic Dome #2. After a lot of hassle, I booked place for two nights in their dorm. It was cheap, but I am so sick of the hassle to do every single thing.

I met two British women and talked to them for a while. I later met some French people, Sophie and Jean-Louis (more on them to follow). Since I finally had the ticket out of Xi'an, I went out to see the city. I rented a bicycle and rode to the Big Goose Pagoda and the Small Goose Pagoda. I saw the city walls, some gates, the bell tower, the drum tower, and the Arab Quarter. Touring by bike was a challenge navigating the throngs of people.

My impression of Xi'an was not wonderful, although the streets are tree-lined and it feels far more atmospheric than Beijing. My expectation of Xi'an was "old and wonderful" when in fact it was modern and industrial. That night I met Sophie & Jean-Louis at dinner. I just didn't feel like eating alone so I introduced myself. We hit it off immediately; they were really great people. We discovered we were on the same tour the following day. Back in the room I met a German guy (I think he was gay) and a Dane who is on the same Trans-Siberian train as me.

It was a tiring but eventful day. I was simply happy to know I was getting back to Hong Kong. The next hurdle will be getting back to Beijing from there.

May 10 (Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong)

The terracotta warriors tour was more interesting for meeting the members of the tour than the tour itself. I met Sophie & Jean-Louis from France (from the evening before) as well as Lee, a Korean-American guy studying at Beijing University.

The first stop was a hot spring famous for a Chinese woman who was the equivalent of Cleopatra. It was also the place that Chiang Kai Shek was forced to capitulate to the Communists. We heard lots of political gobbledy-gook. What was interesting was that the guide didn't seem to believe it either as I caught her giggling a few times during the monologue. The hot spring itself was just OK, nothing fantastic. The place was loaded with local tourists.

The next stop was the tomb of Emperor Qin (who made the terracotta warriors). It is only a huge mound of earth which has never been excavated. The view from the top was nice. Finally, we stopped to see the famed terracotta warriors. It is impressive - the individual detail of each statue and size of the site is amazing. The warriors are housed in a building that looks like an airplane hanger and it was swarming with tourists (which dulled the experience). It was completely worth the visit though.

We all had lunch together - the group was mostly French. After that we stopped at Banpo Neolithic Village to see an exhibit of stone aged dwellings. It was very well-presented (actually better than the warriors), but I had a hard time getting excited over the foundations of mud huts and arrowheads. Most of us felt bored.

Back in Xi'an I suggested we eat at the Xi'an Restaurant as recommended in some of our guidebooks. We arrived and the service was terrible. They even tried to cheat us with a more expensive menu. Luckily, Lee understood Chinese. We left (so did another group of foreigners). Those people suggested we try the restaurant where they ate the night before. We went there and the food was just ok and arrived very late. Poor Lee couldn't even eat because he had to catch the train back to Beijing! Some of the others at the table were quite bizarre, but that is China - it seems to draw very eccentric people. Finally, we had a drink at the hotel and I said my goodbyes to Sophie & Jean-Louis. I hope to meet them in the US - they said they might come one day.

Hong Kong

The flight to Hong Kong the next day was unremarkable. I always feel relieved after a CAAC flight. Oh, I love Hong Kong more on each visit. Especially after China! I ate some Mexican food, checked into Chungking Mansions, and did lots of preparation shopping for Europe. I picked up a good book on riding the Trans-Siberian, too. I called home and it ended up being Mother's Day.

I sure am happy to be out of China!

May 14 (Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong)

This "Chungking Mansions" place is the pits. It is dirty and depressing (and roach-infested), but.... it is dirt cheap. After much waiting I am in possession of my tickets: Beijing - Irkutsk - Moscow - Kiev - Warsaw. In addition, I have all my hotels booked in the USSR and a ticket back to Beijing from Hong Kong (on CAAC - oh no! and it was expensive). I had intended to leave by train but as I might not make it back to Beijing in time to get the additional visas, I decided to fly. My budget is completely shot, but what else could I do?

Lisa and her friend Maggie treated me to Yum Cha and later Indonesian food. They are both so very kind. Outside of meeting Lisa (and the hot and sunny weather), I just check in with Hong Kong Student Travel every other day on the progress of my Soviet visa. I feel completely bored, but reluctant to spend money on "fun" as I was never sure which day I would be leaving (the travel agency always said "tomorrow").

I hung out with everyone else at the "Travelers Friendship Hostel" where we all complained about travel in China (and got to know each other better). What a motley crew they were. There are two Danes, Lars I and Lars II who are traveling before they enter university. Then there are three soccer-player-type Danes who are wild and crazy. A very nice Aussie is in my room along with a bunch of Swedes. A somewhat snotty French girl (who is kind in her own way) is in another room. There is a Dutch guy who speaks English with an Australian accent because he lived there a long time. Another girl, Sharon, is from Connecticut and has travelled a lot, but currently lives in Australia. Mr Lee, the proprietor, is kind of creepy and his helpers are all very weird. There was a theft in my room from a Swedish girl's bag - so strange that they didn't touch anyone elses?

It has been an eye-opening experience hanging out with all the budget-travelers. The best thing is that I am soon on my way although I am NOT looking forward to returning to China.

May 16 (Jing Hua Hotel, Beijing, China)

I went out for pizza and later some Mexican food with Lars I and Lars II. I paid for the majority of the Mexican food. It was a splurge and they don't have a lot of money. I also had Portuguese food with Liza and Maggie (I didn't expect that we would all eat and I ended up paying as well). I used my credit card a little too much, but I did have a good final evening in Hong Kong.

The next morning I packed and soon I was on the flight to Beijing.

Beijing, China

The CAAC flight was less harrowing than expected. The food was world's better than I got on the Xi'an to Hong Kong flight, but it is still GALAXIES away from even the worst food on any other airline. CAAC needs to work on landings in general; they always feel a bit doubtful. I took the bus provided to the CAAC Office in Beijing and then another to the Tientan Hotel to pick up my bags.

I tried to call Lee (the guy I met in Xi'an) and Joe (TM's ex-boyfriend from Japan) without success. The Tiantan Sports Hotel was full! It took me a long time to find a taxi to the lovely (not) Jin Hua Hotel (in the middle of nowhere and difficult to get to and away from). Not to mention the staff there barely speak English and have a typical "I don't care about anything" attitude. I arrived after dinner which meant no food. I only had a bottle of yoghurt given to me by a kind Iranian woman who was trying to get a US visa and escape life under the Ayatollah. The conversation with her was interesting to say the least.

The next day I woke up and threw a bunch of stuff out of my pack that I won't need (mostly Eastern Europe visa information and tourist info). Then I set off for the Summer Palace. That adventure re-affirmed in my mind that I will never travel in China individually again until the country develops more and has a better tourist infrastructure (or I will take a group tour to avoid all the hassle). Unfortunately, I think I have already seen the places most tours would go...

Summer Palace

First I obtained a bus map. Then I noticed (not surprisingly) that my hotel was not on it, nor was the hotel near any bus into town. I finally boarded a #17 bus which took me to the terminus of #15 bus (which I could not find), so I walked until I found a stop for #15. That stop was no longer in use (even the Chinese I asked were baffled by that). Finally, I found the #15 bus which took me to the zoo. There I got on (no, I was packed on) a #322 which took me to the gates of the palace. For some reason, even the Yamanote Line in Tokyo in summer in rush hour feels like a "soft sleeper" compared to Beijing buses.

The Summer Palace was packed and I was already tired from the bus adventure. But, yes, it was impressive. It felt like a smaller version of Hangzhou with beautiful palaces added to it. As usual with great places in China, even with crowds, it ended up being beautiful. Had I not had to get back to the CITS office before it closed, I would have enjoyed relaxing there and waiting for the crowds to die down a bit.

The ride back was long (and less adventurous). The buses actually traveled where I expected and one hour later I was in the CITS office getting my official train ticket to Irkutsk in exchange for a voucher. That was hassle free (I am still in shock!).

I went back to Qianmen Street where the map (which I left at CITS) indicated I could find a #2 bus to take me back. I walked at least a mile to the stop. Finally, a #2 bus took me to a parking lot within 10 minutes walk of the hotel. How am I ever going to meet my 7:40am train (7:00am check in) is beyond me.

Eating in the hotel restaurant remains a mystery. The main dining room was taken up by large parties and after some questioning and searching, I found myself off in a side room. The food tasted good - mainly because I hadn't eaten anything solid in nearly 24 hours. I hope I won't have to eat there again! Finally, back in my room I tried to call Lee, but he wasn't at home. I assume that he didn't get the messages or that he got them and called here and I didn't receive them. I certainly hope I don't have to stay in this hotel the whole time I am in Beijing.

May 17 (Jing Hua Hotel, Beijing, China)

Well, it looks like I will be in the old Jing Hua Hotel until the last. Oh well, at this point as long as I can get a taxi in time for the train, I'll be thrilled. I think I realized today that I don't mind traveling alone nor do I mind staying in a place I don't care for; however, when those two things coincide, it is a bummer! I felt totally down this morning, but as the day progressed I felt better.

I visited the Temple of the Earth. The altar is huge, but other than that it's mostly just a pleasant park to escape to. The nearby Lama Temple was packed, but I must admit (yet again), that when a place in China is wonderful, the crowds don't matter. Lots of priests were milling about and the architecture is completely different from the typical Chinese (the temple is Tibetan). Nearby was a Confucian Temple which was nice and quiet. It felt like a relaxed place to avoid the crowds.

I changed more money (where is it all going?) and ate in the cafeteria of a big hotel (ugh). After that I relaxed in the rock garden of a park listening to my walkman. I bagged more sightseeing and checked out a shopping district. I rode the subway to Hepingman and walked to a restored Ming Era market. It was very nicely done, even better than some of the old palaces! It was touristy, but not overrun. I ended up buying a few things I didn't need, but for what they were, the prices were cheap. They will mostly be gifts for when I return home. I met an old calligrapher who did part of an old Chinese poem for me. He was a lovely old man and it made for a memorable purchase.

I returned to the hotel to again worry about visas. Will I get them or not? Oh to be back in the West....

May 19 (Jing Hua Hotel, Beijing, China)

The visa I was least worried about, Poland, is unobtainable due to the Pope's visit! I could only manage a transit visa. I guess that means I'll be in Berlin around June 1 and from there I'll decide what to do. Perhaps straight to Prague (after some recovery time in West Berlin).

The Mongolian Embassy was quite the scene. A small room, stuffed with travelers all waiting patiently for that precious stamp in their passports. It seems I was the last to get a visa in one day on my visit; the rest of the folks had to return the following day. I met a Dutch couple in the Polish Embassy whom I had met in Hong Kong Student Travel. I met them again in CITS in Chungwenmen Hotel. We were having similar problems, but all things were resolved in the end. We celebrated over a few beers in a nearby hotel. We had a very nice conversation. I'd love to look them up when I finally make it to the Netherlands (not Holland, as they explained). They also told me about huge lockers in the main railway station. I'll take my big bag there later today. That way tomorrow I only need to carry my small bag and I can easily take a bus if needed. I really don't look forward to dragging my bag across town but if there is no other way then...

After I drop my bag, I'm not sure what I'll do - I just feel relieved.

May 19 (Jing Hua Hotel, Beijing, China)

I woke early, putzed around the hotel, and then took my pack to the station. It was not nearly as bad as I expected. After that (4 yuan, a rip off), I set off for the day's adventure - a trip to the zoo!

Beijing Zoo

The only animals remotely well-cared for are the pandas and even their enclosure leaves much to be desired. I only bothered to see half of the place as I became disgusted with the animal's living conditions. They were suffering and the spectators were throwing stuff at them to eat, randomly. People also threw things AT the animals just to get them to move. After China, only Japan's zoos are equally as bad.

One the way back I stopped at the Temple of the Moon which completed my circuit of the Temples of Heaven, Earth, Sun, and Moon. They are all placed approximately equidistant from the Forbidden City: Moon - west, Sun - east, Earth - north, Heaven - south. The Temple of the Moon is the worse kept up with a TV tower on the property and hardly any original buildings left (were there ever any?).

I had lunch at the terrible Xingquao Hotel (again) for the convenience of eating cafeteria style. Then I hung out in the International Train Booking Office and met a clueless Canadian woman who thought she could just hop on a train all the way to Bucharest. She even lives in China!

After that, I went to Tiananmen Square to pass an hour or so watching the multitudes and relaxing in the open space there. Dinner back at the hotel was bad as usual. I just have to get up on time tomorrow. Dare I ask for a wake up call? I will, but I have to trust myself, too (I hope).

Tomorrow is it! I am so excited!

May 21 (Beijing-Irkutsk, Gobi Desert, Mongolia - train)

Beijing, China - Irkutsk, USSR (train)

Beijing to Erlian, China

I hardly slept, but I got off OK. I fought my way through the buses and subway and finally arrived at Beijing Central Station. I waited some time to collect my bag from left luggage. I boarded the train only to find a mistake had been made and I was assigned to a different car. I settled into my "hard sleeper" which is much like a "soft sleeper" on a normal Chinese train. As fate would have it, I am with 2 Canadians, Guy & Cheryl and a Swede, Anna. We all get on OK. Cheryl & Guy have been traveling for two years all over and Anna for about a month. We are a mixed, motley crew. Much of the first day was spent talking, eating, and drinking.

As I had seen the Beijing - Datong portion before (the train follows much of that route), I was more absorbed in conversation. The last stop in China, Erlian, was kind of weird with outdoor music and an illuminated station. Such a scenario! We all got off the train after surrendering our passports to the officials. We changed our remaining yuan to dollars but they only changed to the nearest dollar. That meant we all had yuan left. There was limited food at the train station shop. As people changed money and tried to use up their remaining yuan, the store had less and less to sell. Yuan were useless outside of China. It was funny to watch that scene of money changing and buying unfold.

Crossing Mongolia

The border crossing into Mongolia was bizarre. It was already dark and we passed many fences and guards with dogs. Mongolian immigration and customs was very lax entering. How would it be later that evening upon leaving? Who knows? After the border crossing stuff was finished, we all fell into a deep sleep wondering what the Mongolian scenery would look like tomorrow.

More to come...

May 22 (Lake Baikal, Irkutsk, USSR)

Mongolia swallowed up the train. The southern part is flat grassland which progressively became hilly and less arid as we traveled north. I expected to see camels and men on horseback (ha, ha). I did see some yurts and very few people. The emptiness is penetrating. Ulaan Baatar was a letdown for me. We stayed in the station for about 30 minutes. The city is very small with mostly low buildings, much like Datong, China. The people were mostly dressed in Western clothes with only a few wearing traditional ones. Traditional Mongolian clothes look great! I would love to buy some pieces. Lots of Soviet soldiers are milling around. They look very young. It felt disturbing.

Leaving Mongolia and entering the USSR was a long and unsettling process (mainly due to the military presence). Now, however, having summed up Mongolia (easily), I turn to commenting on my fellow passengers some more. Anna the Swede, who just traveled through China, is as laid-back a person as anyone could find. She is very kind and sharing - typical of most Scandinavians I have met so far. Then there is Guy & Cheryl, the Canadian couple. We discussed the usual US/Canada topics that I talked about with BP and VH in Sendai for years. Guy is a real party guy and Cheryl is more of a "granola" type. Both are very nice. I also me the Onishi's, they are getting off in Irkutsk with me. From Nagoya, they are a very upbeat couple. Too bad I never met them in Japan. Then, Diane is an American from Philly who is so full of energy it's incredible. She is also soooo American. And there are a lot of other interesting characters as well. We all have had a lot of fun talking and watching the scenery pass by. This trip has exceeded all expectations of fun - I really like it.

Sidenote: when they disconnected the Mongolian dining car at the border, I got stuck in the wrong half of the train. Then I needed to explain my way out of it (as in, why I was not with my passport). That was "exciting", but still - we had no heavy searches of our things, it was just a lot of bureaucracy.

Naushki - Irkutsk

After crossing the border at Naushki, we waited forever to change money. The bank was extremely strict about travelers' checks. I was very happy to have cash.

More to come....

May 24 (Irkutsk - Moscow, USSR - Tran-Siberian Railway near Kansk)

Irkutsk, USSR

We arrived in Irkutsk and were taken to our hotel. It was all so organized after China!

I woke up after a good night's rest to rain. It's not so bad, the first real rain day since the start of this journey. I re-arranged my things and the Onishi's picked me up. We had a great breakfast (the Onishi's did not like it) of cream cheese with yoghurt (smetana), coffee/tea, and wonderful bread.

We started on our city tour (a group of about 20 people) and stopped at a few buildings before heading out to Lake Baikal. The first group of buildings was off the old city square. The square itself is rather dull, although there are a few nice, old buildings. The three churches in the area are now all museums: two were Orthodox and one was Catholic - all built by exiled Poles! Our guide, Tatiana, gave adequate but dull recitations about each place. Although interesting, there was too much historical detail to absorb everything. I was also disappointed not to have more time. Nearby was the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (for Irkutsk) guarded by very young military men (and women!). The frescoes in some of the churches were great!

The tour then stopped at an active church (one of the few). We were permitted to enter and we saw an old nun (all in black) and two homeless men (I was surprised) standing at the door. The inside was very ornate in parts, but overall simple compared to the last churches. We passed by other old buildings and homes - some of the old, wooden ones were striking with colorful shutters and trim. Due to the porous nature of the soil, many of the homes have settled below street level. The city was completely destroyed by fire once and some of the buildings were rebuilt in stone as a result (and done very nicely). The majority of the city, however, is made of wood (with the exception of all the new rows of flats - all in concrete). Finally, we started the long ride to Lake Baikal.

To be continued....

May 24 (Irkutsk - Moscow, USSR - Tran-Siberian Railway near Krasnoyarsk)

Lake Baikal

The road through the taiga (primeval Siberian forest) was very straight going up and down over small hills. We passed many little villages and got occasional views of the Angara River (which empties into the Arctic Ocean). One stop was at an overlook that was sacred to the native people of the region. Now a regular stop on the tourist trail, Japanese visitors started tying pieces of paper and handkerchiefs to the trees like the bad fortunes received in temples and shrines. It looked bizarre in the middle of the Siberian forest.

We arrived at the lake and the weather started to clear. We glimpsed the snowcapped mountains on the opposite shore, but we had actually seen everything more clearly the previous day from the train. The lake itself was scattered with hotels and small villages. There were many boats on the lake, too. The lake itself is a true natural wonder, holding 20% of the world's liquid fresh water. It was created by a huge earthquake that caused a fissure in the earth creating the world's deepest lake. I found it all very interesting, but I had read most of it in the guide book already. The high point of the tour was a stop in a small village in a glen near the lake. The homes were completely made of traditional logs - all wooden. Each house had lovely shutters and beautiful flower boxes. They looked so European - it was hard to believe I left China only 2 days before! I really enjoyed walking there and seeing a "real" village.

After that the tour returned to a hotel for lunch where we had to wait until 3pm to eat. The food was OK. I met a nice German and Belgian there (in addition to hanging out with the Onishi's). One of the best part of the trip, however, is the people!

To be continued...

May 25 (Irkutsk - Moscow, USSR - Tran-Siberian Railway near Tyumen)

Our tour group consisted of all people who had been on the Trans-Mongolian express: the Onishi's, the Kiwis - Phil & Bret, the Norwegian - Ingve, and others. All of us were sociable, but the most interesting thing by far was our guide, Tatiana. She was short and stout and of Mongol heritage - also a student of English and German at the local teacher training college. She was going to finish next month and be sent into a small town to teach for three years. There was a great need for teachers in the "outback". Her memorized speeches were dull, but informative. She asked me later what I thought of her English and I politely told her it was fine - I just wasn't interested in Russian history.

After lunch, we had a long conversation about many things. It was interesting to watch her try to keep up with the party line when she clearly didn't want to. I tried to be ambivalent on many topics in order not to get her upset. She offered to take all of us shopping after the return to Irkutsk. Then the real person came out (after she was off duty). She promptly told us the value of all of our clothes if we wanted to sell any of them. She asked what we thought about the selection in the stores (nil). She gave us some great insights into life in the USSR. Bert (Kiwi) and I took a walk into the downtown area after shopping only to find we had to hurry back to the hotel to catch the bus to the train station. The bus was on time - the train was three hours late.

Our guide was Serge, a nice-looking young guy in a suit and was party all the way (but he did like Duran, Duran - so he couldn't have been all that bad) The train arrived and we felt exhausted. From then one we started the experience that is unique only to those who have ridden the Trans-Siberian Express across Russia.

Irkutsk - Moscow, USSR (train)

May 26 (Irkutsk - Moscow, USSR - Tran-Siberian Railway near Yaroslavl)

I guess it is best to summarize the people with me on the journey - as that is what made the trip so interesting.

Ingve, the Norwegian. He got bumped up to first class (Car #11) while the rest of us stayed in standard sleepers (Car #10). He brought tons of food that he ended up not needing as there was plenty in the dining car contrary to what we all heard.

Tanya & Valodja, Russians. They are two young Russians who befriended all of us.

Zoe, Frank, and Margaret, the New Zealanders. They were in my car.

Joan and Eva, the Australians. Eva was Lebanese - Australian.

Bret & Phil, the Kiwis.

Geneve & Val, more Australians.

The Onishis, from Japan.

.... and two other Australian couples.

We all got on famously. We shared our food, mixed with the locals, brushed up on German (the preferred second language of the USSR at that time), and drank alcohol provided by various sources.

The days actually passed quickly, but at times they dragged, too. It was important to alternate between talking, reading, watching the scenery, and doing any other activity to give the days some variety. Getting off the train at various stops could be exciting because we were never sure when the train would depart - and it left without warning. When it started moving (very slowly - it was a long train), we all would jump on again.

The second day was perhaps the worst as there was nothing to look forward to. We all had too much to eat and drink that first night (we ate a lot of sweets on the train). The dining car was like a tomb until breakfast - from then on it got crowded. Keeping track of the stations and the local time vs Moscow time got to be a challenge.

Speaking bad German with the Russians was exhausting, but Tanya spoke it fluently and helped me a lot. Volodja is the kindest guy. He is super Russian, very forceful, but he only ever thinks of everyone else's needs, too. I am very impressed with the Soviets that I have met thus far. I think they have been just great (except our carriage attendant who is a real sourpuss to both Russians and non-Russians alike). Tanya & Valodja are eager to hear about our countries and to tell us about Russia as well. It is hard to put into writing the feelings that come out of such interactions. People tend to be great, but governments are not.

Phil and Bret are loads of fun. Phil is very philosophical while Bret is playful. Geneve and Val are both outgoing and nice to talk to. Joan and Eva are more reserved, but still can be fun. I think a definite bond develops among travelers as the experience is a once-in-a-lifetime journey. Imprisoned on a train for four days with little to do, you really learn to get along with others. I look forward to Moscow (and a hot bath).

May 28 (Kosmos Hotel, Moscow, USSR)

The rest of the train ride was filled with anticipation. I talked a lot more with Tanya and Valodja. There was another belligerent, young Russian guy that no one liked who got angry when I laughed about his plans to visit Saskatoon, Canada. He appeared to be totally brain-washed by the system.

Moscow, USSR

We arrived to a slight drizzle in Moscow and Intourist caught up the fact I had not booked a hotel transfer. I fudged it and said I had, so I was taken to an office where I got a very stern "nyet" and was taken to a long taxi queue (in the rain). I just hopped on the metro and after being very lost initially, some kind people helped me. I finally found the Hotel Cosmos.

The hotel check-in process took forever, but I eventually was in a room and, more importantly, had a hot shower. I returned to the lobby just in time to meet Tanya and Valodja. We then all proceeded to the Belgrade Hotel to meet Bret and the Onishi's.

We chose Hotel Moscow for dinner so we took the metro. The Prospekt Marx Station is very deep (in fact, many are), just like Dupont Circle in DC. The murals in Kievskaya Station look like a museum! The metro exit brought us in front of the Bolshoi Ballet (very exciting). After some long, suspenseful moments with Tanya negotiating a table, we got in. While we were waiting, I walked down a block to get a glimpse of St Basil's Cathedral. It was at that moment I felt like I was truly in Russia! The dinner was good, but the portions were small. Tanya and Valodja paid (much to everyone's consternation), but they had insisted. After dinner and many toasts to everyone's future with some great Russian champagne, we left to see the city at night.

We walked to Red Square which was very exiting for us first-timers (and for Tanya and Valodja, too - there were not Muscovites). For our Russian friends it almost appeared to be a sacred pilgrimage. They displayed such patriotism (not belligerence) which I found extremely moving. Red Square at midnight (in the cold) is impressive. Even though we were all exhausted, we completely enjoyed the experience. That night I slept like the dead in a real bed in a real hotel room.

The next morning it was raining (shit), but on and off, so I trekked out to the Exhibition of Economic Achievements and saw the famous "Cosmos" exhibit on space exploration. Nothing like the Air & Space Museum in DC, but still well-done with a huge section dedicated to Yuri Gagarin. The entire area appeared to be a turn-of-the-century expo in design - I found it pleasant to roam around.

After that, my wanderings took me through a lot of mud and construction until I came upon a small door (I mean small). That door opened into a typical Russian graveyard and led to some steps and another door into a church. I entered. In that "godless" country, the place was packed with worshippers: old women mostly - with a few men and young people. Everyone was huddled together in small nooks attending apparently simultaneous services. The artwork was beautiful (and old). The sound of the chanting, the colorful shawls, the smell of incense... it felt more like a "church" than any place I had ever been. I felt out of place and intrusive, after about 10 minutes I left, but it is a very good memory of Moscow.

I went back to the hotel to ask about train tickets and then I bought some opera tickets for that night at the Bolshoi. I paid only $35, but I had a box seat! Then, after buying train tickets I was off to the Polish Embassy to see about changing my visa. I had a hell of a time finding it, but then when I did, everyone was very helpful. No one there spoke English (or French or German), so I used sign language! I paid $19 and got it! So I AM going to Poland for five days. I am really looking forward to it.

I saw a few more metro stops (a steal for only 5 kopeks) and then returned to Red Square to see St Basil's, Lenin's Tomb and the changing of the guard, and the view along the Moscow River. The GUM Department Store was a trip back to early 20th century England and its great palaces of glass. The architecture was stunning. I returned to the room to put on nice clothes for the Opera.  I saw Robin Hood performed by the Dusseldorf Opera Company. I felt tired and still had some "time lag", but it was the experience of a lifetime. As usual, after coming early to the theatre to eat, I couldn't find any place except the hard currency bar at the Intourist Hotel. I had two pieroshki and a pepsi and paid way too much. Thank God they had food at the Bolshoi later and it was yummy!

After the Opera I met Val & Geneve and a Russian guy, Eugene. The man had befriended them and it appeared they were anxious to part ways - he was very shady. I went back to their hotel and saw their room (National Hotel). It certainly was a lovely place, but they complained that the food and service were awful. In addition, their room was cold. Maybe the Cosmos Hotel wasn't so bad after all? I took some night photos in Red Square and returned to the hotel exhausted. I had another very good night's sleep.

I woke early and ate at the buffet breakfast. Who knows when food will be available again in Moscow?? I leave for Kiev at about 9pm tonight.

May 30 (Kiev to Warsaw, train)

The last day in Moscow was pleasant but.... the Kremlin was closed! I'll have to live without having seen the inside. The line for the Lenin Mausoleum was huge, so I left feeling disappointed. I went to see a church I located on the tourist map at the Intourist Hotel (the only good map in the city and not for sale). I ended up confusing the subway stops and walked about 30 minutes until I found it. I nearly gave up. It turned out to be a monastery. The place was touristy, but still retained some charm. Monasteries in Russia look more like fortresses with churches inside. Some very famous Russians were buried there, including Kruschev and Tolstoy! I ran into two women I met on the train crossing Mongolia - small world!

After that I looked for another church complex and found it, but it was closed and under renovation. I have to admit that Soviets keep after their old buildings - over half the ones I visited were under scaffolding! I really felt tired (and hungry with the "Can't find no food in Moscow" blues) How bizarre to have plenty of money, but no place to eat without a reservation. And, if you do manage to get in somewhere, the service is rotten and slow. In that way, I found Russia not that much better than China (for service). Ironically, in China the best service was generally found in small restaurants.

I felt so tired and hungry, I thought I'd pass out, but I pressed on. I came to the Ossolinsky Palace near my hotel. It looked very beautiful in contrast to the monolithic Moscow Tower across the street. I didn't enter as the exhibition was of "Serf Art" (no interest). Maybe the most exciting moment of the whole time in Moscow was when a man in an orange Lada tried to pick me up (for black market purposes, I assumed). He would not take "nyet" for an answer! I finally managed to ditch him.

Back at the hotel I ate two pastries and drank a Dr Pepper. I am reading Michener's Poland, trying to finish it before I leave the USSR. I spent the remainder of the day reading until I was ready to get on the train to Kiev. Getting to the station was easy, but I got disoriented once inside. Luckily, I met a young woman who spoke great American English and she gave me directions. She said it was the first time she ever met an American in the USSR. I wondered how she had acquired such good English?!

Moscow - Kiev (train)

The train ride was fine and I slept early. I shared the compartment with some mom & dad types and a younger guy. When I woke up in the morning, they shared some food with me (thank God) and we talked a bit. As it turned out the young guy knew some English. As I have said previously, I have met so many kind and generous types in the USSR.

We crossed the Dnieper River - we had entered Kiev.

Kiev, Ukraine, USSR

Instead of Intourist finding me at the station, I found them. They explained how I could get to the Hotel Lybid (only one tram stop away). At the hotel, I checked in and went to the room to relax.

(to be continued)

I took a "contac" (medicine) because I caught a head cold due to all the temperature fluctuations. After getting settled into the hotel, I got a map and some directions. I started walking. Kiev is really a lovely place to roam, filled with trees. I walked and walked until I found St. Andrew's Church. Parts were under renovation, but it still looked lovely. Perched on a hill overlooking the river and old city, it is very elegant. A cobble-stone street winds down the hill from St Andrews lined with old buildings. Nearby is another hill that gives a good view of the church and the old city. I relaxed there for a while and then slowly returned to the hotel, stopping at a few places along the way.

The first was St Sophia's church. It is very large and old compared to the relatively newer, more elegant St Andrews. It was nice to wander around the sanctuary that encloses a very "old" atmosphere. Excavations in the floor here and there showed evidence of an even older church in the past. One unusual thing I've noticed in many of the churches I've seen is the iron tile floors! Did they wear better than stone?

On the way back, I saw a lot of construction (new metro lines). Additionally, it appeared an old opera house or concert hall was under renovation. I stopped at the famous "Golden Gate" of Kiev which dates back to the Tartar Invasion (that was OLD). Finally, I saw St Vladmir Cathedral which appeared more "real" as it is still in occasional use.

A young guy followed me all the way to the hotel. I am guessing again someone looking to trade on the black market. Since he spoke no English, the conversation went nowhere. (I was also tired and hungry). I noticed some signs as I walked were written both in Russian and Ukrainian. I thought they used the same alphabet, but there appeared to be some minor differences? Interesting, but I wasn't sure.

Lunch at the Lybid Hotel was the pinnacle of Soviet restaurants at their worst. I waited for everything and the waitress was very unfriendly. She didn't want to give me my change (4 kopeks) because she didn't have it in her pocket at the time. It appeared she thought I owed her a tip - wrong!! I talked to the manager and got my change. Back in the hotel room, I read more of Poland. I wanted to dump the book before Soviet and Polish customs on the border. Then it started to rain, so I just stayed in the room and read. I was planning what I would do in Poland, too. Then I slept - I had walked a LOT!

The next morning I ate breakfast at the hotel - pitiful compared with the Cosmos in Moscow. I packed my bags and left them with the front desk in the lobby. I set off for Marinsky Palace (I thought). I ended up in the old part of the city where I walked around searching the old buildings and streets. Quite pleasant, but I never found the palace. I came across one building that I thought might be the palace, but it appeared far too modest to be considered a "palace". As it turned out, the Marinsky Palace was far from where I was searching - I only ever glimpsed it as I passed by on a bus later in the day.

So I continued walking along the Dnieper River where I caught a tram for the Pechersk Lavra Monastery. The place is huge. I felt sorry I saved it for the end when I didn't have enough time to see it completely. It is spread all over a parklike rise that divides the river from the city. Next to it is a huge war memorial with a Statue of Liberty sized Amazon brandishing a sword and shield looking out over the river. There was an eternal flame (not working?) at the base. It also held a small display of weaponry (from World War II).

Once I finally found the entrance to the monastery it was amazing. Bombed during WWII, the restoration was still underway. The before and after photos were truly amazing. Just the combination of the parklike surrounding and the glistening gold spires made it magical. I, by chance, found the catacombs. There were buried many orthodox saints. You could see some of their mummified hands. It was interesting, bordering on creepy and grotesque. I thought it would make a great setting for a horror movie. The connections between the various buildings was by long, covered hallways. It was all fascinating, but I had to leave!

On the way back to the hotel, the bus passed the Marinsky Palace (in addition to many other places I would have liked to have explored). I wished I had more time (and energy). I arrived at the hotel lobby and grabbed my bags. Getting to the train station, finding my carriage, and seat were all easy. I was on my way to Poland.

Kiev to Warsaw (train)

I am riding with a mother and daughter (I think). They don't speak English at all. We will pass through immigration and customs at midnight (ugh). The views riding across the countryside of Ukraine are lovely - many wide-open fields and a lot of empty space. Tomorrow, I will arrive in Warsaw, another language and culture to react to. I am starting to feel burnt out on all the travel. The last "easy" travel I had was in Hong Kong. I can't wait for Germany - even if my German stinks. At least it will be familiar. Russian (and maybe Polish) has been the worst challenge for me so far in Europe.

June 2 (Krakow - Oswiecim, Poland, train)

The border crossing had its moments. I wasn't very sure where and how to change back my rubles, but I managed. Brest Station is huge and we had to wait for immigration and the gauge change for the train. It was nearly 3am when it all finished. At least Poland is 2 hours behind USSR, so we gained time and were able to catch some sleep. Polish immigration was a breeze! I literally just changed my money and not much more.

Warsaw, Poland

Upon arrival in Warsaw, I searched out the coin lockers only to find my bag wouldn't fit (as usual), so I had to put it in storage. That was more expensive, but considering my dollars were changing at an incredible rate, I really couldn't complain about the price. Warsaw was cold and overcast. I went to the Youth Hostel and they told me to come back after 5pm. ORBIS (the venerable state travel agency) was closed on a Sunday! I walked and walked until I thought I would drop.

I arrived in the Old Town which has been reconstructed since the war. It is truly beautiful. It has the old cobblestone streets and a market square that I have long thought of as "the Old World". Finally, I felt like I was in Europe. The restoration is ongoing, and each place is exquisitely done. It struck me that the Poles have a lot in common with the Koreans - constantly being overrun from both east and west. However, like the Koreans, the Poles are fiercely proud and show the love of country in their cultural artifacts. As it was Sunday morning, the Old Town was practically deserted. Despite the cold, it was great to walk the streets alone.

I stopped by a few churches, but Sunday Mass was going on to standing room only crowds. It felt completely different from churches in the USSR - more young people and a freer atmosphere, yet still full of intensity. While what remains of religion feels thick and heavy in the USSR, in Poland it is serious, with a lighter touch.

For breakfast I stopped at a "milk bar" (a kind of cafeteria) and had great food! After not knowing where and when I would eat again in the USSR, in Poland food is everywhere (and ridiculously cheap - almost on par with China). I walked some more and then ducked into a small cafe for tea and cake. It was quite nice. Then I headed back to the station. I had hoped to travel to Zamość, but it is just too far out of the way, so I settled for Krakow the following day. Buying that ticket was an experience of its own: a long wait in line, confusion, broken German, and finally a ticket. At least the ticket clerks were more patient with me than in China.

With the afternoon in front of me, I decided to go to Laziensky Park to see the palace. The park itself is lovely and although the palace isn't huge, it certainly was beautiful. The Poles did another excellent job of restoration considering all that was left was a shell after the Germans purposely tries to obliterate it - such a waste. I particularly found some of the statuary around the fireplaces compelling. With more time to kill, I saw an exhibit on a Big Game Hunter in Warsaw who had killed and brought back various animals from all over the world. Although some of the animals were endangered, the collection was impressive with some animals in their entirety (or just their heads).

I went back to the Youth Hostel, but it was still too early so I had some more good cake in a cafe nearby. When I finally got into the hostel, it was filled with kids. I waited with those screaming devils for about an hour. The woman working there seemed particularly harassed - so I just left (again). I felt dead from walking and just wanted to relax. I finally located "Syrena", an agency that finds travelers private rooms. I got a room with an old man and his family. He wanted me to pay in dollars and I told him I only had Zloty. The room was very nice and clean. I went back to the train station and got my bags. Then I went to the old town to have an excellent meal of roast duck in a beautiful restaurant. The food was excellent and the waitress super kind. I ended up sharing the table with two young Poles who were a riot.

I returned to the room and slept like the dead.

Unfortunately, I needed to wake early to catch my train the next day. The streetcar line I had to take had a derailment (first time I had ever seen that), so I had to take a bus and pray it was the right one (it was). The train left late anyway... After the usual panic about which train on which platform, I got to the right track and the correct carriage.

Warsaw - Krakow, Poland (train)

On the train I met up with a guy I had seen on the trans Mongolian sector of the train the month before. The train ride was fast - a nonstop to Krakow. The scenery looked like back home to a "T". At times I had a hard time believing I wasn't in Pennsylvania! The guy turned out to be kind of an asshole. He was over 50 and thought he had the best advice for me on everything. The conversation turned from a semi-interesting one on our different travels to an analysis of what he thought I was doing wrong in my life. I was happy to leave him by the time we arrived.

Krakow, Poland

Once in the city, I located an agency for getting private rooms, but they told me to return in an hour. I walked into the town square and found ORBIS (with a line halfway down the street) and ALMA TUR (not as busy). I had limited time, so I found a great breakfast - melted cheese and mushrooms on French bread! Back at the private room place I couldn't get a room downtown, so I went the hotel route and stayed at the Dom Turysty where I shared a room with a Jewish-Canadian guy, Jerry.

Jerry was very friendly, but spoke quite loud and reminded me of a typical New York Jew (outspoken and aggressively friendly). After "quiet" Japan, meeting people like Jerry is a culture shock. Jerry had a wealth of information on Hungary and other Eastern European countries. He was changing money on the Black Market - I was too afraid to attempt that.

We spent the day in Krakow together and that made for a fascinating experience

(to be continued)

June 2 (Oswiecim - Krakow, Poland, train)

I must admit, at first, Krakow felt disappointing. In fact, Old Warsaw looks "older" even though it was recently rebuilt. Krakow doesn't have many cobblestone streets left, but the buildings are original and beautiful. We visited lots of old buildings and soon they all muddled together in my mind. The largest church was extremely beautiful inside - there were tons of lesser churches, too. The old "Cloth Hall" - an old mercantile building - in the center of town is too touristy, but still beautiful. The trumpet call on the hour from the large church belfry is really quite nice. The university, Jagellonian, is a great place to stomp around, but it was difficult to enter the buildings. The old castle and other fortifications are fascinating - on one of the old city walls was a display of many different street artists. It looked so colorful against the drab, gray background. We walked and talked a lot (well, Jerry talked - he is quite good at that).

For lunch we had more of those pizza-bread things. We were hoping to find a semi-elegant place for dinner. We tried one place, but we weren't dressed properly, so we settled for another milk bar. Wow, Jerry can really put it away! He started to get on my nerves near the end, but still I liked him a lot. I found the old Jewish quarter to look more like what I expected of "old Krakow" than the old city center itself! We visited a museum (an old synagogue) which was dull for me, but for Jerry interesting. We paid $1 to the caretaker to open it for us as it was officially closed.

Then I went to the train station to check on the trains to Berlin from Krakow. I might take the direct train, but it all depends on time, money, and visas (as usual). I hope to get that settled today. I enjoyed walking the streets of Krakow with Jerry a lot. I didn't realize that I had started to feel a little lonely with all the solo travel. Or perhaps it wasn't loneliness as much as frustration handling everything on my own. Jerry truly gave me a lot of good travel advice - I learned a lot from him.

I met another young, American guy from Sweden on the way to Oswiecim in the station. He might even end up being my roommate later? Who knows?

June 3 (Lancut to Krakow, Poland, train)

Auschwitz/Birkenau, Poland

I had no journal entry, and the page left intentionally blank.

There were many hassles in getting my Berlin ticket and finally I could only book a second class seat. Well, it could have been worse (no ticket at all). It is a 12-hour ride of which 6pm to midnight is riding on the train and then four hours of immigration and customs (I guess) arriving in East Berlin early the next morning. I hope I survive.

Poland is actually fine but getting tickets reminds me of China except the clerks are 300 times more friendly. Last night, a guy stayed in the room, a Polish truck driver, Mr. Staczek. He was a young, super-friendly guy with whom I shared a few beers and we tried our best to make some conversation. He was so kind, I really didn't care if we understood each other or not. With more planning, in the future I would love a return trip to Poland. The things I don't like are buying train tickets and finding hotel rooms - those could be easily avoided through advanced planning. Last night I waited forever to get a ticket to Lancut only to find I was standing in the wrong queue. When I finally found the place for an unreserved seat, it took me 3 minutes!

I woke up and paid for another night at the hotel (the clerk only spoke French) and then went to ORBIS to find the bad news about my train ticket (still no sleeper). Then I ran to the train station to find I had missed the express train to Lancut, but then another came and I wasn't sure if it was the late arrival of the original train or different one. With trains in Poland, I never knew what was going on. For the ride I ended up standing (sometimes sitting) in First Class and it was a little long, but I survived. Sometimes the scenery with the new green (or vibrant yellow - what was that?) in the fields dotted with farms and villages and the occasional church spire made it delightful. Perhaps some people would say the scenery of Poland is drab, but for me it was wonderful.

Lancut, Poland

In Lancut, after some inquiries out of the station I found the "museum" which was the old Lubomirska Palace. I don't think it was damaged in the war at all. The palace was lavish, but not super opulent as some such European places (like the French). It actually appeared quite livable. There was a hotel inside (in part of the servants' quarters). The building appeared just as the book Poland had described it. It was an amazing experience to travel to an historical place after reading about it! The visit was so much more meaningful. The people of Lancut were all very friendly, helping to give directions and point me the right way. I only had about two hours there before I had to catch the return train to Krakow.

I have no idea what I'll do tomorrow; the train isn't until evening and the hotel check-out is 10am. It will depend on the weather (and my mood). I am still feeling angry that I had to change more money to get my Berlin ticket, but now I cannot get any refund in dollars for the price difference between sleeper (couchette) and seat. I received the Zlotys back, but if I can't change them at the border, who needs them? I might not be able to spend all my cash now. I hope the slow train from Lancut gets me back to town in time for something to eat!

June 4 ( Cafe Alvorada, Old City Square, Krakow, Poland)

Today is my great departure for the "West". I can't wait to go, but in a way, sitting here on a lovely June day in the square of the old city at an outdoor cafe having delicious ice cream with a band playing is for me what "Europe" was supposed to be like all the time! I have 1500 zlotys to use before the border (and there is no dining car on the train). I just ate a very delicious chicken cordon blue type dish for lunch. Now I can hold off on food until I arrive in Berlin. I have to say again I could really get into a return trip to Poland.

The salt mine south of the city was an interesting tour (in Polish) where I saw the old network of tunnels and a subterranean chapel. The tour felt too long, but I didn't understand anything either. The little town above the salt mine was also quite pleasant. I didn't stay long there, but it looked like it had possibilities for a return visit one day.

June 7 (Gästehaus, West Berlin)

Krakow, Poland - Berlin, East Germany

After all the worry about not getting a sleeper on the train to Berlin, I had a second class compartment all to myself! The other passengers on the train seemed friendly and soon we chugged off. The scenery was more of the same. It rained heavily so there wasn't even much point looking out the window. The seat was not good to sleep on, but at least it reclined. The seat opposite me was later alternately occupied by a husband and wife who took turns sleeping there. The rails headed northwest to Kunowice to the border. The train crossed the Oder River very early in the morning and arrived in Frankfurt an der Oder. We then waited for the Poles to finish their inspection of the train followed by the Germans. The sunrise in and around the Oder River in the morning mist was lovely. Germany immediately appeared different from Poland - more houses, more "cozy", and far more urbanized. We traveled through some fog and occasionally broke out of it to reveal a countryside that looked very East Coast of the US. Poland's countryside was similar but it was vast with few houses. Germany really hit it on the nose - it looked like America.

East Berlin - West Berlin, divided Germany, train

Entry into the DDR was friendly. The exit into West Berlin was easy, just confusing. I had no problem finding the Friedrichstrasse Station, but then I couldn't locate the passport control. I exited the station and located it. I couldn't find the "entrance" and then I realized I was "exiting" East Germany. Again, I breezed through but could not find the right train to the the Berlin Zoo Station. It was totally bizarre that the Friedrichstrasse Station is still a major transfer station for West Berlin between the U & S Bahn, but it is located in East Berlin. I finally found the platform and I was propelled across "the Wall" and into one of my first real culture shocks - West Berlin.

(to be continued)

June 7 (Lichtenburg Station, East Berlin, Germany)

West Berlin, Germany

After the initial shock of standing in a huge, modern stain station again, I realized I needed to find a bank, information on the city, and a room. As I was pondering the info in Let's Go: Europe,  squatting on the station floor, when two young, "milk-commercial" type Americans came and asked me for help. There I was totally bewildered in the "West" and they were asking me (of all people)! Anyway, I found the information in the book they needed (and where I would likely head later) and they left. I had the feeling I might see them again....

The bank wasn't open, so I waited outside with two young Danes. The Danes I had met on the trip were very friendly and outgoing types. I wished I had enough money (and time) to travel to Denmark. We talked and killed time until the bank opened. I changed money at a terrible rate and realized then and there I could only stay in Berlin for a super short time. At the exchange rate I got, I couldn't afford West Germany for a long time.

I took the subway to the first place I hoped to find a room and it was booked solid. Apparently, there was some athletic event in West Berlin. They suggested another place, pointed me in the right direction, and were refreshingly friendly. At that point I was ready to check into a nice hotel and use my remaining money to fly home. Anyway, the next place did have a room and who did I meet but John and Paige (whom I met at the Zoo Station on arrival). They asked me about travel to East Berlin and I told them if they could wait, I would be going there myself soon.

I showered, changed clothes, and felt at least 30% better. Then, we struck off for Checkpoint Charlie. Another shock in West Berlin was price of public transport. Compared to the East it was astronomical. We arrived at the famous checkpoint to discover it is really a customs and immigration portal right in the center of the city. It looked so bizarre and the Wall (colorful on the west side) extended in both directions from that entry point. Some of the art on the wall was "meaningful" and others just plain graffiti. We hesitated before entering because most people were actually only coming close and peering inside the "East, not doing the crossing. We discovered we only need to walk straight ahead, so that's what we did.

We passed through lots of guards and fences (but those are usual at borders). The passport check took forever and then we filled out customs forms (which they didn't seem to care much about). After a lot of nervous waiting, we walked into East Berlin.

East Berlin, Germany Democratic Republic

I had to admit that the border crossing was 100 times more tense than any other I experienced until that point with the exception of Mongolia/USSR. Friedrichstrasse was in a state of total reconstruction, so we made our way into the city with much difficulty. My first impression of East Berlin was construction scaffolding. Finally, after a few glimpses of old churches here and there, we arrived at the city's most famous boulevard, Under den Linden. The street is lovely with many old buildings lining it. In one direction, through the trees the Brandenburg Gate is visible and in the other, city's former "downtown".

We passed the venerable Humboldt University (where Hegel and other famous academics had studied). The Opera House, museums, the cathedral - they all astounded us as we walked toward the huge (and famous) TV tower. We had arrived at the two huge plazas of Marx-Engels and Alexander. And... we were starving.

All of the places to eat were filled (it was noon) so we settled for a cheap "bratwurst mit brot" on the square. I left the happy couple on a detour to get a visa and train tickets to Prague. I found the official Czech tourism office, Cedok, and it was closed! At that point, I was ready to throw in the towel and just continue the journey into Germany and then France, in spite of the expense. Luckily, I decided to have another go at the embassy itself and I just made it inside before it closed. I got my visa very quickly and simply! I only got a four-day visa, I figured it would be enough. The people in the embassy were super friendly, too. Back at Alexanderplatz I went to the Reisebüro der DDR to buy my train ticket. As was the case in Poland, there was a line, but one hour later.... I had my ticket! Finally, I could carry on with sightseeing in East Berlin.

Alexanderplatz was large and desolate. What a contrast to Unter den Linden, but it was full of restaurants and outdoor cafes (and people). It was lively at least. I walked to a church behind the Rathaus that had been destroyed in the war. Set amongst its ruins was a photo gallery of Berlin (then and now). The exhibit was very interesting (and free). A lot was being prepared for the 750th anniversary of Berlin. Berlin had so much more to see: St Mary's Church on the square, the Rathaus, the TV tower, the burnt out synagogue of Kristalnacht when the Nazis destroyed all things Jewish, the cathedral. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was creepy because the soldiers actually "guard" the place and stare down visitors. However, for me what made the visit incredible was the museums.

The Bode and the Pergamon Museums with their collections of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and Islamic artifacts was beyond comprehension. They hold one of the finest museum collections I had ever seen. The equivalent in the Smithsonian pales in comparison. Unfortunately, it was late in the day and time was waning. I found myself running to see as much as I could - some of the rooms were already starting to close. Those museums alone were worth the trip into East Berlin. As a bonus, in the Bode Museum there was an exhibit of art from the Kremlin. Since I had not been able to visit, I was thrilled to see at least some of its collection. It figures that later it started to rain and then I couldn't find an uncrowded restaurant as it was already dinner time. I just didn't eat.

I still had a LOT of "Ostmarks" so I strolled down Unter den Linden sampling tea & cake, eating my way west. I walked to the Brandenburg Gate and saw the Wall running behind it. For me, that was far more moving that Checkpoint Charlie. I was looking across at the tourists there looking back at me. They were thinking "That's the Communist World" yet 90% of the people they saw were capitalist day-trippers from West Berlin!

Leaving East Germany took a long time - not due to crowds, but just each step required waiting. While waiting at one gate, I was taken to another (I had followed the signs correctly). Two Canadian women and I went through the process together. Passport check and customs were fast, but the wait was long! The customs check question "do you have any money from the DDR?" seemed stupid - the rules stated that small amounts could be removed (and no one was trying to take worthless Ostmarks into West Berlin). The wait for the passport check was especially delayed because some guy in front of us had a problem. The process was fraught with unspecified tension...

Then, "Back to the Future", and we were in West Berlin.

West Berlin (again)

We walked together as they were staying near my hotel in the youth hostel. We talked a lot - it was pleasant. I slept like the dead that night. My final impression of East Berlin was that it has more for the tourist than the western part of the city as there is more of interest. The place is not under the pall of communism (with all gray buildings). It is lively, and it is old compared to West Berlin. It felt like Hong Kong and Guangzhou had they been placed side by side. I had an extremely good (but exhausting) day. I think I'd like to return one day

(to be continued)

June 9 (Prague Castle, Czechoslovakia)

Most of the morning of my free day in West Berlin was spent getting information and mailing things home. After getting lost, searching for packaging and such, I had lunch at McDonalds. I felt tired but I ready to see what West Berlin had to offer. I started with the Kaiser Wilhelm Church which stands in contrast to the modern city. It is an almost too well done reminder of the city's past. I found it too much after much more subtle (and moving) reminders in East Berlin.

As for glitz, West Berlin has it all - shopping malls in abundance. To those returning from long sojourns in socialist lands, it must be a shock. The abundance borders on disgusting. After that shock (and it was a big one because West Berlin really represents the "West" in so many ways), I noticed that the city was very green with many trees and parks - quite livable. The people are friendly and it is lively.

My next adventure was to visit the old Reichstag where a rock concert was just getting started. Considering the concert will go long into the night, I wondered how the East Germans felt about that music blasting. The concert actually detracted from the mood of the visit, but then again all of Berlin (both sides) feels quite surreal: a huge park, the burnt out Reichstag, the Wall running right behind it, and blaring rock music. I skipped the Reichstag Museum and went straight to the Brandenburg Gate with lots of tourists peering into the "Socialist World" as if they were viewing people with the plague. For me, I only feel sadness for the people of Berlin. Their grandest avenue is divided in two.

The Tiergarten (Zoo) is a great place for hanging out. Parts of Berlin are superior to many US cities and about a million times better than anything in Japan. I saw the Siegessäule, a gilt column dedicated to the Franco-Prussian War. I returned to the zoo to catch the metro to Schloss Charlottenburg (with some difficulty locating it out of the station). A grand avenue leads to the castle, lined with trees. At the end, visitors can see a sumptuous royal residence, like something from the era of Louis XIV in France. On either side of the avenue are museums, one of which is the Berlin Egyptian Museum. While East Berlin's museums humbled me due to their magnitude, the small Egyptian Museum was very tastefully done. I thought some US museums could benefit in copying their displays. Each piece was perfectly placed and in each room there was a book describing the artifacts in German, French, and English.

The castle itself is immense and ornate, but as I was forever counting my remaining marks, I passed on the admission fee and contented myself to look around the gardens (huge and lovely). I walked around and relaxed by one of the pools there. Just as I was preparing to leave, a small concert started. It looked to be a group of students practicing. It was very enjoyable - classical music on the lawn of a baroque castle. I met Suzanne there who asked to look at my Let's Go book, but she actually just wanted to talk. She was Canadian, quite outspoken, and extremely nice. We talked for a very long time and then introduced me to her friend Mark who she was traveling with. He was super quiet - exactly the opposite of her. We all went out for some great Greek food later.

We asked around for a place to get a beer and ended up at a bar near the Wall in the neighborhood, Schlesisches Tor. We talked a lot more (mostly Suzanne). She wanted me to think she had traveled a lot when she actually had only been in Germany for a week. We had a sudden farewell on a crowded S-bahn and then I returned to the hotel to leave "comfortable, but oh-so-expensive" Berlin.

I woke early, had breakfast, and headed to the Zoo Station. I still had my 24 hour public transit pass so it was still valid to travel to Friedrichstrasse Station. At the Zoo Station I spent my last marks on a McDonald's burger and again headed east. I went very early as it was a Sunday and I didn't want to get caught in a line at the border. As it turned out, the crossing took time, but not that much. I ended up at Lichtenburg Station two hours early. Mostly I caught up with this journal as I had fallen behind.

Since I left the Onishi's in Moscow, I had not met any other Japanese. However, at the Zoo McDonald's I ran into a family and then another group at the East/West passport control. I can still speak Japanese, but wow - it requires an effort. It is true that language deteriorates quickly without use.

East Berlin, Germany to Prague, Czechoslovakia (train)

I was on the train and on my way to Prague - a city I've always wanted to visit.

June 9 (Cafe, Prague, Czechoslovakia)

The train ride to Dresden was rural - glimpses of the Germany I had only seen in photos. Dresden from the train: it used to be quite a place - fire-blackened ruins along the Elbe and a few hilltop mansions or turrets were the only things visible. It looks like it used to have some beautiful buildings. The customs inspection started in Dresden surprisingly (and continued all the way to Bad Schandau on the border). The train snakes along the narrow river valley all the way into Czechoslovakia. Although the river is narrow, it appears it is deep enough for large, flat-bottomed boats to make their way up and down. The southern Elbe on the German side is super touristy (for East Germany), but still pleasant. The route is classified as a "scenic" rail journey, but I found it only pleasant. I was very surprised at the lack of a hard border between East Germany and Czechoslovakia. I kept waiting for a "no man's land" that I had seen at other borders - nothing. It felt more like traveling between the US and Canada. Anyway, the scenery was nice and continued to be until Usti nad Laben, Czechoslovakia. That town was graced with a few hilltop fortresses and churches and lots of factories! In Děčín on the border I had changed money (no one informed me that I could, so luckily I went outside to check). I was ready for Prague.

Prague, Czechoslovakia

Arrival in Prague took me to two places that said "no" for rooms, but at the second they were friendlier and eventually found me something. I checked in and ate a little bit and slept. The sunset that evening was spectacular over the domes and spires of the old city. Too bad I was too tired to appreciate it more.

I awoke early to find the girl at the front desk spoke French! Weeeee..... I was so happy to find someone who spoke something other than German. She very kindly explained many things to me. First off, I went to Cedok (state travel agency) to buy train tickets to Bratislava. It took some time to make myself understood, but I did. I met a nice young guy there who wanted to exchange money on the black market. I politely declined. I couldn't imagine meeting someone in the state travel agency and trusting them! At least he was very friendly and his English was excellent. From that moment I had two full days to see Prague.

Unfortunately, it rained all of Day 1. Prague held a lot of disappointments. The Old City -(Stare Mesto) was mostly under renovation, especially its centerpiece, the old town square. (to me all of Prague was old!) The castle on the hill and the cathedral were also both closed for renovation. It felt like there was scaffolding to ruin any good photo all across the city. However, it is much better to speak of the superlatives of the city. Prague is a city like none other I have seen in Europe. It is the quintessential medieval city filled with old forts, castles, churches - everything! Until that point, the places I visited had nice neighborhoods, Prague in its entirety is like a museum! The scale of it is mind-boggling. There is too much pollution that has blackened its buildings and too many cars, but was it touristy? No. There were many tourists, but it never felt given over to tourism. It retained a stately dignity.

I was enthralled by the city. Even if the old town square was one major construction zone, it has the potential to be a fantastic destination. My path meandered to the old Jewish quarter and I found the city's Jewish Museum. Ironically, much of what is on display there was amassed by the Nazis as a display of the decadence of Jewry! The museum had some old religious artifacts, but far more interesting was the old cemetery where the graves were literally stacked on each other. The gloomy weather gave the place a somber atmosphere. Another interesting part of the museum was the collection of items from concentration camp victims: letters, poems, and photos. The children's section photos were moving, but with Auschwitz fresh in my mind I still felt overwhelmed on the topic. I met two young American women there who were very snobbish - oh well.

I wandered down to the river and saw the castle on the hilltop - it is one of the best views to be had in Europe: a castle, a church, and an ancient neighborhood on a hill overlooking a majestic river, the Vltava (with many old bridges spanning it). I walked to Karlov Most Bridge - the oldest, famous for its statuary. On either end is a tower and many more old buildings. The statues on the bridge though blackened by time are lovely. They held many crucifixes and represented old kings (and queens). The bridge is so grand and stately. The towers on both ends are both very old. The buildings on the castle side are so picturesque! I stopped in a cafe for a coke and then continued up past the St Nikolas Cathedral (there are so many ornate cathedrals in Prague, I was left glazed over after a time). I noted that the churches lacked the amount of stained glass that is in abundance in most other European churches. When I arrived at the Castle, it was closed because it was "closed on Mondays" (of course). I ended up eating lunch under the castle in a nice restaurant.

Even if I was in love with Prague, I was ready to throw in the towel between the rain and all the scaffolding, so I took a break from sightseeing. I went to the Hungarian Embassy and got my visa. That will give me the option of travel to either Budapest or Vienna from Bratislava. After many inquiries it seems it will be easier to travel to Vienna if I want to spend a day in Bratislava, but I actually prefer to go onto Budapest. I really have to save money. After lots of discussions with the people in Cedok, they advised me to get the most up to date information in Bratislava. Unfortunately, I can't take the boat to Budapest because it leaves at 6am and I arrive at 6:30am. That situation will figure itself out later. The people at the Hungarian Embassy were great and I got my visa quickly.

I took the subway to Vsryhad, the oldest portion of the fortified city to see some ruins, a church, and an old cemetery. The place was a little remote but gave sweeping views over the city and river. The castle dominates everything. The view from the subway station is great! As far as the subway goes, it is not nearly as beautiful as the one in Moscow but it is very fast, clean, and efficient - much better than any I have used in the US. I am still shocked that Prague has not gotten more positive press.

I finally came back to my hotel for a short break. I went out to eat and ended up sleeping early. The food has been very good and very cheap. The "stand up" cafeterias are inexpensive - I can eat a lot for less than $1. It feels even cheaper than Poland, but I might be wrong. It is hard to keep all the exchange rates straight in my head. One thing that is better in Prague is beer. In Poland, beer was hard to come by and in Prague, it is 25 cents for a pint, available everywhere! It is excellent pilsner from Plzen! Wow. I could get into staying in Prague for awhile. Additionally, the soft ice cream and the cakes are amazingly delicious. I have been eating very well even if I think my room is expensive (for a socialist country).

Day 2 started out sunny. The morning was occupied with getting more travel information. After that, I went back to the castle by way of a lovely island park in the river, a few old churches, and a beautiful garden. The cathedral was still closed for renovation - shit. I did visit the old Royal Palace - it looks like a place that could have hosted some wild parties. Again, the surrounding streets were beautiful to walk. I had lunch at a restaurant next to the one of the previous day. The food was good and cheap. By that point, I was in sensory overload, so I sat down in a park near the castle and caught up with the journal. Later I walked back across Karlov Most - not without regret. Will I ever return to Prague?

Tonight I take a 3rd class sleeper to Bratislava. Will I even sleep?

June 10 (bank of the Danube, Bratislava, Czechoslovakia)

I invited the Cedok Information guy out for a beer and it turned into a completely twilight zone experience. he told me his goal was to finish med school and go live in Canada in the bosom of the large Czech community there. He hates the system and is apparently a member of the old aristocracy with money. He complained of the lack of freedom and material things. He has relatives in Austria and West Germany and he even lived in England for one month, but he only sees the glamor of the West, none of the bad points. I told him Czechoslovakia was so much better than China (for example), but he said they were all "yellow" anyway - what a racist. In the end, he was a little strange, but it was a good chance to speak to a local with good English. The conversation was very good until after hearing him make endless comments about Jews (including - "you know this is a Jewish pub"). I finally asked him, "Are you Jewish?" He replied his grandmother was and would not comment further. For a person who talked so openly about his government in a public place, he acted very "top secret" about his religion. Finally, I can't say I liked him, but it was a very good experience.

Just after we parted I ran into some Canadian and American guys traveling together. One of the guys was a student in Wroclaw, Poland. We went out for a few beers and talked a lot - very nice guys. I excused myself early and raced back to the hotel to collect my bag and get to the station (10 minutes before!).

Prague to Bratislava, Czechoslovakia (train)

The 3rd class sleeper has 6 bunks, but there were only two of us. We slept nearly the entire journey. The train was comfortable. I woke in the morning to the flat countryside near Bratislava. Soon we pulled into the station.

Bratislava, Czechoslovakia

I located what I thought was the correct travel agency on the map and took a tram there. I ate breakfast and then asked a woman in the office for help. She said it was closed and she spoke no English. Luckily, a German-speaker came by and helped me find another office which told me "no tickets until tomorrow"! Then and there I decided to go to Vienna instead of Budapest. I didn't want to take the train to Budapest and Vienna was only about an hour away by boat (and just $15). The plan allows me to arrive in Vienna at a decent time and start my Austria sojourn.

Everyone in Bratislava has been very friendly and I got a tourist map to help find my way around the sites. Bratislava's old town is small and can be seen in a day (or a morning if you skip the museums). The castle and its museum are good and the museum provides a good history of the place from prehistoric times to the present - very informative! At least a dozen flags have flown over Bratislava. The castle is austere, but it makes for a change from the usually opulent ones The old town is mostly in a sad state of repair, but it is still quaint. Some churches are nice. Bratislava is really a nice place to wait for the boat to Vienna. Of course, the Danube (Dunaj there) flows by the city with its fast, muddy waters. It is heavily traveled and surprisingly narrow. I could hear the river moving in a place that is straight without rocks. Wow! I was disappointed it wasn't wider as one of Europe's premier rivers.

Soon I will be back in the West again. I think Hungary and Yugoslavia will be much different than what I have seen thus far among the "socialist" countries.

June 12 (Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna)

Bratislava, Czechoslovakia - Vienna, Austria (boat)

Leaving Czechoslovakia turned out to be weird - the immigration and customs officers waited until the last minute for their check and then only checked me! I had to make a mad dash to board the boat. Anyway, it was a relief to be onboard. The first 30 minutes or so was lovely, passing by small towns and a few old castles and churches on the hills. The boat was comfortable and fast. The Austro-Czech border was another East/West Berlin kind of divide - I was surprised.

Vienna, Austria

My first impressions of Vienna were tainted by having no place to change money at the boat dock. I had to ride the subway "illegally" to the Südbahnhof where I informed people of the situation. They told me that was the Czech's problem! Then all of the youth hostels except the one recommended against in the guide book were full. The hostel ended up being OK; it's just a little far out of the center. Unfortunately, public transport in Vienna is more expensive than Berlin! I checked in and met an Austrian guy who lives in Canada. We talked about our travels in Japan and then we were joined by a Japanese guy! (very typically Japanese - I didn't like his attitude). We all finally went to sleep after a long, late-night conversation.

The next morning I was up early to see the sights. I took the tram to the Danube Canal and from there walked along the canal (ugly). Then I went to the main cathedral, Stefansdom (disappointing) - it is completely walled in by its surrounding buildings. The interior is lovely, but most of the stained glass is gone due to bombing during the war (I didn't even know Vienna was bombed!). From there, I went to the City Park (very nice - parks in Vienna are polished to a "T"). Then I walked by some impressive, old, official buildings to Karlsplatz. I visited Karlskirche - very nice. Finally, I stopped at the Opera House, but no tours were available until the following week! I met a young Japanese guy there, and we walked around the rest of the day together.

We stopped at the Art Museum (a good Egyptian collection and excellent Dutch Renaissance paintings), but overall I preferred the museums in Berlin. We saw yet more lovely parks and buildings - Vienna appears to be what Prague would have become if Czechoslovakia had been capitalist. I see good things in both cities: for overall atmosphere - Prague, hands down; but for elegance, culture, and such things - Vienna is the place to be. Posters of a famous conductors and symphonies appear everywhere as well as monuments to Strauss and other composers. I saw many plaques of "Mozart slept here". Vienna has more culture per city block than any other I visited. For that reason alone, it is worth being in the city, but, unfortunately, my visit is out of the music season (and I don't have enough money). It would be nice to return when I am older with money and stay a few days to eat good food, drink beer, and go to concerts.

We ate some bread and sausage in the park and then went to Schloss Belvedere to see its modern art collection (the Japanese guy was really into it). I just wanted to see the palace. Neither of us were disappointed. For me, the paintings were just OK, but the palace was great! and the gardens were lovely. After that, we walked to the Südbahnhof to get my Austria Ticket (rail pass). We ate dinner in a nearby park. It was very enjoyable - we were surrounded by sparrows. We returned to the city center to send postcards to my friends back in Japan. I took advantage of the guy's ability to write notes for me! We heard an impromptu Strauss concert outdoors which wasn't all that great (but it was free). Finally, we returned to the hostel. I had a bad night's sleep as the guy beside me kept jumping out of bed and shouting. He was WEIRD.

The morning has been all bad. The laundry was difficult to find and then it was expensive! I had to pay a lot for other people to take my clothes and wash them for me (using laundromat machines!) I paid for another night in the hostel and got my things in order. Then I left for Schönbrunn Palace. The gardens are vast, but the exterior is a little disappointing.

June 12 (Vienna - Villach, Austria, train)

The interior of Schönbrunn was worth the pricey entrance ticket. Wow! Such splendor - I was on an English tour with a very international group. I enjoyed it far more than I anticipated. After that, I went to the Südbahnhof to find out about trains to Villach (and Hungary). I had to buy more film (it was expensive). I wandered back to the St Stephans Cathedral to climb the tower - when I saw the price, I changed plans. With aching feet, I pushed on to the Hofburg Palace grounds. Hofburg was the main palace while Schönbrunn was the summer one and Belvedere for special occasions. I stopped in the Votiv Church, built by the same architect at St Stephens. The Votiv Church is complete while St Stephens has one tower that was never finished. The stained glass is much better in Votiv Church.

Some beggar kids came up to me and "hissed" at me for money - yuck. As they didn't appear to need the money (based on their clothes), it left a bad taste in my mouth. Back at the hostel I bought some bread, cheese, and meat in a nearby market (not cheap) but it filled me up. As I ate, I heard some guys making some disparaging comments about tourists in Austria. They must have assumed I didn't understand any German (or they didn't care). It felt like everything bad was happening in one day. I didn't sleep well that night because people returned at midnight and were noisy and that weird guy is still there - strange as ever. He sat up in bed once again and screamed.

Vienna - Villach, Austria (train)

I got off to a good start this morning, however. I left my large pack with the hostel. I am traveling in Austria with a small one. Now I am on an express train bound for Rome - it is exceptionally fast. The area around Vienna is flat for the first 30 minutes, but now the train is climbing into the foothills of the Alps. The views are already starting to look spectacular - villages in valleys, hilltop castles and mansions, old churches - I need a break from big cities!

June 14 (Klagenfurt - Lienz, train)

The remainder of the train ride to Villach was lovely. After the mountains came a lake district with rivers, lakes, and farmland. Between Klagenfurt and Villach is the Wörthersee, a beautiful lake (but overdeveloped).

Villach, Austria

I arrived in Villach late Saturday afternoon (meaning after 12:00pm) to find most of the town closed. I made inquiries about the refugee camp where my neighbors the Lukas family had stayed after World War II. I only got blank stares and a lot of bad information. Basically, I was given the run-around. Villach was a very nice, quiet change from Vienna. I had a nice lunch with some beer and I talked with a clueless American guy (he was nice), Ed, whose parents were Austrian. They brought him back to Austria to show him around. That day was his solo day and the last I saw of him was as he watched the train he was to have taken pull out of the station roll into the sunset.

All my efforts and questions pointed me to Wernberg Castle where Ann Lukas might have been born. That all got tabled to the following day though - no more buses. The Austria Rail Pass is getting better and better as I found it includes many bus routes, too! I returned to Klagenfurt to the youth hostel

Klagenfurt, Austria

After check-in and talking to the wife of the proprietor (whose English was good), I went out to explore the old section of town. It was better restored than Villach's but was absolutely dead. The whole town was participating in the annual "town run" on the square - people were running everywhere! It was fun to explore, but I felt tired and went back to sleep in a tw0-bed room (!!) at the hostel. The woman at the hostel told me of a great hostel above Lienz called Heiligenblut. I might try to get there if I can make it by bus. It is located near the very top of Austria! I woke the next day to have a continental breakfast (which I have come to hate - not much to eat). I made my way back to the train station and headed back to Villach.

Villach, Austria (again)

In Villach, I journeyed to the castle where I met an old nun who told me it used to be a hospital during the way and only a few refugees stayed there. She mostly recalled a Hungarian doctor from that time. She also said there were several camps in town. If Ann L indeed was born in that castle, it was a very lovely setting. That nun I spoke with was extremely pleasant - she was an English teacher with nearly perfect English. Unfortunately, she was quite old and only remembered a few assorted details. The bus driver on the way to the castle was also friendly - he knew the names of the regular passengers! The ride felt very homey.

I raced back to town hoping to hop the train, but then I found another piece of information in my notes I had overlooked. The search was on again. I met a priest outside of St Nikolas Church who told me to check out St Martin's Church. A middle-aged couple gave me a lift with them in a taxi as they were going in that direction anyway. I found the site of one of the old refugee camps - over the years, it had become real housing for the remaining people - just a series of dull apartments. There, I met a woman who directed me to an old gentleman. That guy told me that most of the people had emigrated to the US and Canada, but those who had remained were mostly from Eastern Germany. It's too bad I didn't know any of the names of people the Lukases knew from the camp. I walked back to town.

I talked to a nice young guy at the bus station. He was interested in what I was doing in Villach. He said the place I might be looking for was Stallhoven near Wernberg Castle. I don't know if I will go back and check it out. I already stomped around Villach enough and took some nice photos. Largely, I have good memories of my time there except for one of the priests who seemed not to want to tell me anything. Everyone else was great and super patient with my awful German.

Now I am headed to Lienz, my last stop in the Kärnten region.

June 15 (Mallnitz Station, Austria)

I think my memories of Austria are going to be something like: "lovely landscapes, friendly people, and ... starvation. I just can't afford to eat and the food around me looks so good!

Lienz, Austria

Upon arrival in Lienz, I found there was a bus to Heiligenblut later that day (amazing because on weekends bus service is reduced about 50%). I called ahead and there was room at the hostel, so I had a couple of hours to kill in the city. First, I ate. It wasn't cheap, but it was good and the beer, Gösser Dunkel, was excellent! I walked around town - a little too commercialized for my taste, but given it is at the foot of the Dolomites (tall and jagged, very iconic "Alps" scenery), I was not complaining. Lienz was my first real feeling that I was actually "in the Alps". It was incredibly scenic.

Lienz - Heiligenblut, Austria (bus)

The bus ride into the mountains went up and up and up. The landscape around Heiligenblut was not a severe as in Lienz, but it still felt majestic. I seemed like I was inside the story "Heidi" - little farms with lovely flowerboxes and meadows on the sides of mountains. Little churches poked up here and there. The tops of the mountains were still snow-covered and some waterfalls cascaded from the mountain peaks - one was very large and impressive just before Heiligenblut.

Heiligenblut, Austria

The small town lies at the end of a long, narrow valley above which looms Grossglockner, the highest mountain Austria. Heiligenblut is a tourist village, but it was not so commercialized as to detract from the natural beauty of the location. It truly felt like a kind of paradise. After a short walk around and a chat with two German guys in the room, I feel asleep.

The following morning was incredibly beautiful and I walked to the waterfall (fantastic). I planned to visit the mountain and then cross the mountains to Zelle am See. Well, it started to rain... Then the driver said the bus was special and I had to pay an additional fare to continue. Because of the rain and not being able to see anything, I decided to go the long way around back to Lienz via Spittal. I met some very kind women in the tourist information office who said that I could make a much faster connection in Winklern (a lovely village where two mountain valleys form a "T": Obervellach and Mallnitz). I boarded the bus only to realize that I left my entire toiletries bag at the hostel. It had EVERYTHING in it and would be expensive to replace. So, I went back to Heiligenblut instead and got stuck in the rain there (not such a bad place to be stuck for a couple of hours). I bought some bread, cheese, sausage, and beer for lunch (probably for all day). It turned cold. I was happy when the bus finally arrived.

Heiligenblut - Salzburg, Austria (bus and train)

The rain continued, but the sun broke through on and off and the clouds hung low in the valleys - it was exceptionally beautiful. I made reservations in Salzburg for two days. I need to relax a little. I don't like arriving so late, but since I reserved a space, it should be ok. Today, in spite of all the beauty, is not one I'd like to repeat!

June 16 (St. Sebastian Institut, Salzburg, Austria)

Salzburg, Austria

I arrived in Salzburg and checked in. I talked to an American guy who was on a graduation trip (as a gift) - he was a typical "clueless American abroad". Very nice guy, but he was traveling on a 21-day Eurail pass and hitting 20 countries.

The morning was filled with anxiety about if I could stay another night in the venerable Institut St. Sebastian. I could! Me and another guy (in the same room last night) moved to a big, 4-bed room next to a great cemetery. I assumed the place is (or was) a monastery - it is very nice and full of tourists. Most of the tourists are Americans (clueless). One guy is John who is entering grad school at Penn (lucky!) and was super-interesting to talk to. That made for a good change. Anyway, even walking to the monastery in the rain last night I couldn't help but feel the city was overrun by American tourists (ugh). Hence, I cannot say my initial impressions of Salzburg were very good.

The weather was cloudy, but not too rainy. I went out to explore the city. Had it been clear, the mountains would have been visible adding much more to the views, but I have to admit that in spite of all the tourists and glitz, Salzburg is a nice town. It isn't Krakow or Prague, but the place is mostly a pedestrian zone and is easy to walk around. I climbed up to the castle which has potentially great views. The building itself was gray and dull with some beautiful wildflowers growing in some of the cracks and crevices

The churches in the old town were OK. The best by far is the cathedral (with the nicest surroundings). St Peters cemetery enclosure was good. Anyway, as I was watching an outdoor chess match (with people-sized pieces), I met a Japanese guy, Yanagi, and we talked and talked and talked. Later, we got rained on and froze - the rain let up but the weather turned very cold. We walked in and out of shops in the old town. Finally, we visited the Mirabel Palace and gardens - well-maintained, but dull. I got my usual "bread, cheese, sausage, drink" for lunch and ate it in the station with Yanagi-san as I waited for him to catch a train to Innsbruck. He missed the first and got on the next.

I tried to make a reservation for tomorrow night with no success, but in doing so, found an international phone and called home. Anyway, my impression of Salzburg is that it must be great in good weather, but the tourists and touristy "stuff" were not appealing. In spite of all that, Salzburg retains its dignity. I think few other touristy cities can claim the same.

I hope to return again in better weather - at least to enjoy the views.

June 17 (TVN Gasthaus, Hallstatt, Austria)

Salzburg's weather was not much better the following morning, but at least it wasn't raining. I checked out of the hostel and got on a bus to Bad Ischl.

Salzburg - Hallstatt, Austria (bus, train, boat)

I met a couple of Japanese (again!). They were honeymooners on their way to St Wolfgang, but they got off the bus at the wrong stop (I thought). The bus was filled with English people, not sure why? They didn't seem to be part of an organized group, but they absolutely filled the bus.

Bad Ischl was pleasant enough, so I decided to stay longer. I walked around and got something to eat. It felt cold, even colder than Salzburg, but the sun was trying to come out and that was nice. I ate in a concert hall after the concert had finished (I caught the last bit, beautiful). After making a reservation at the hostel in Hallstatt, I had the rest of the day free to reach there. I decided to take the train toward Obertraun where I got off at Hallstatt Station and followed the signs to ferries that crossed the lake. Then it poured! Nonetheless, arriving to the Hallstätter See by train is beautiful. The lake is surrounded by walls of mountains with tiny Hallstatt clinging to one side. A waterfall literally cuts the town in half - even in the gloomy weather it was gorgeous. The boat finally left for Hallstatt and I mistakenly got on a tour boat which took me on a guided tour of the lake and then to Hallstatt (for free) because they thought I was with the herd of Germans around me.

Hallstatt, Austria

I arrived in Hallstatt to a light drizzle and couldn't find the youth hostel. I ended up staying at another type of hostel which turned out to be much nicer (right in front of the waterfall!). The information office was extremely helpful and advised me that I had booked into the best hostel (even if in error). Anyway, I walked all over the city, got more to eat, and enjoyed the fact that it was finally sunny. I was in one of the most beautiful places of the entire trip! Still - eating bread, cheese, and sausage is getting really old.

The people working in the hostel were very friendly - although when I arrived they were quite busy. Fellow hostelers were actually few - an old Japanese guy, two English girls, and three Americans from Ohio. The Japanese guy was quite long-winded and the two British girls were a shriek! The three Americans were very young and exactly the kind of traveler I wished had not shown up. I got the Post-Bus regional map and schedule to find I can see much of the area tomorrow on my way out. I heard the nearby town of Gosausee is even better than Hallstatt (unbelievable). There are salt mines and ice caves to explore, but both are touristy and expensive.

So, I am in a lovely city on the edge of a lake. I saw it in the (brief) sunshine, too. I am happy!

June 18 (Train Station, Salzburg, Austria)

I got to know Becka and Sally, the Brits; as well as Glenn, Sharon, and Karen, the Americans; and the old Japanese guy. They all went out that evening for beer, but I passed (no money, no energy). In the morning, the three Americans went off to find another hotel as they were not wild about a hostel (especially Sharon). The rest of us found it wonderful (it was). The people who managed it were great. We had some hot chocolate and talked a LOT. We went out and found the other three in their hotel and talked some more. Finally, we all had lunch and then climbed the mountain behind the town during the full 30 minutes of sunshine that day. Glenn splurged on a few beers (very kind) and we relaxed. The walk back down was fast.

It was time for me to go after a quick bite to eat. I felt sorry to leave them all as we got along well. It felt good to relax and just hang out for a day. The two Brits were very enlightened travelers - the Americans, naive. At least Glenn had traveled before so he was a little better than the others. The whole area and experience was definitely worth the time to travel there. It is truly spectacular, too bad the weather didn't cooperate more. Tonight I will board a sleeper (will I sleep?) and wake up in Western Austria.

June 19 (Feldkirche Youth Hostel, Austria)

Salzburg - Feldkirch, Austria (train)

The scramble for seats on the train was not a thrill. I met some truly clueless American women who couldn't understand that part of the train was continuing into Italy and some only to the Austrian border. I also met a great young guy from New Zealand who was only 18 and had already worked his way around Europe. He seemed a little strange but, as with all Kiwis, was friendly and kind. The train ride wasn't all that restful, but I managed to sleep (as the Eurailer's do - second class seats together - ugh). Give me a first class sleeper any day - no wonder those travelers always look like shit.

I awoke to clear skies and spectacular views of the Alps between Innsbruck and Feldkirch. the sunrise over the mountains was incredible - first it lit the tops of the snow-covered mountains brilliantly and then slowly filtered into the valley below. I traveled with a young Austrian student and cook who was Austrian but lived in Switzerland. They were very patient with my bad German.

Feldkirch, Austria

I arrived in Feldkirch with no money. I walked up to the youth hostel and waited until 7am, then I rang the bell and entered. The manager was a really nice guy and let me leave my bags there. He advised me against certain things in Let's Go and gave some good alternatives. He told me I could rent a bike for the day for a reasonable price and, as the weather was lovely, I decided to ride into Liechtenstein, just 15km away.

I changed more money and then had a bizarre experience on the bus. The driver was actually rude with me because I got on the wrong one (very unusual), but I was finally in the right place and ready to explore. My bags were dropped, I cashed a traveler's check, and rented a bike.

(to be continued)

June 20 (Meeting Room, Innsbruck Youth Hostel, Austria)

Bike trip to Liechtenstein

The bicycle was the usual rented variety (too small), but as the roads weren't all that steep, I was OK. It was almost all downhill to the border where they just waved me through - no check, nothing. Then I passed a lot of border-type shops and restaurants until I finally entered the countryside. The mountains towered around the valley and it felt wonderful gliding along on a bike - so many cows and so much farmland for a small country! The mountains were definitely the most Alps-like yet. I passed through two small towns and finally entered Vaduz where the road led up to the castle. Although the road wasn't steep, it was still uphill and I was beat by the time I got to the top. The castle is still inhabited (or at least used occasionally) by the royal family, so it is only viewable from the outside. It commands a nice view over the valley. I descended to the center of town which was a huge tourist trap - so disappointing after a good build up. I got a map at the tourist information center, a stamp for my passport, and then scouted out a return route that would be as flat as possible. As the weather started changing, I left downtown Vaduz and cycled to smaller towns near the Rhine. They were all a delight to drive through. I made detour to see the Rhine before entering Austria and was surprised how small it was. Then again, they were the headwaters only. After numerous villages, I finally crossed the border on a small country road where the border guard was surprised to see an American tourist on a bicycle. They loved looking at all the stamps on my passport. The border house was a small, old-fashioned structure with a hand operated gate! It was very cute. I passed through equally nice scenery on the way back to Feldkirch and finally entered the old town.

Feldkirch, Austria (again)

I had a nice stroll in the old downtown and found it deserted (but quite nice). It was a good chance to see a small Austrian city in a non-touristy atmosphere. Feldkirch appeared to be a small, restored medieval city minus all the glitz of tourism. I had some lunch and then I walked up to the castle to find the best-restored castle to date. Rather than "display" things they restored the place as is. It felt like walking into it just as the inhabitants had left it - all of the original furniture in place, a nice little courtyard - it was great. The place is called Shattenburg Castle.

Then it rained, rained, and rained. I waited for the hostel to re-open - it was very boring. Finally, I re-entered and checked into the most beautiful space. It dates back to the 1400s and is totally restored. It was the best youth hostel ever! I bought some dinner at a nearby store and ate it talking to fellow hostelers: 3 Californians (Mike, Larry, Mike's sister); Anne (a Taekwon Do blackbelt - a fearless hitchhiker); Kyle, a loquacious Texan; and later, Hannah and Marty, a mother-daughter team (the mom was nice, but her daughter was stuck up). Anyway, overall everyone was fine and I joined a few of them for beers. We searched the dead downtown and then found a packed pub. It felt a lot like home except for the choice of music (kind of bizarre, but then, that's how I find all of European music). We all quickly tired of the noise and smoke and went back to the hostel for a comfortable sleep. It was one of the better days I've had: Liechtenstein, the old castle, and then a nice hostel.

This morning after breakfast, everyone said goodbye, but I met almost everyone again at the train station (and we took the same train). The views ranged from pleasant to spectacular and the cloudy weather gave way to sunshine upon arrival in Innsbruck. I was happy!

Innsbruck, Austria

I ate lunch in a park and met a Japanese guy, Takata. We walked around the old city together. Wow! I expected little from Innsbruck, but it is nestled in the mountains and from the city center the view is like a postcard. The old city center is great. I really liked the place even though it was crawling with tourists. I thought it retained more atmosphere even than Salzburg. I enjoyed leisurely walking around, talking to Takata, and taking photos. I couldn't make it back to Bregenz (my plan), so I just hung out in Innsbruck. I would take the night train (and hoped it would not be crowded).

As per usual it rained later in the day, but I did see Innsbruck in the sunshine and it was beautiful. Tomorrow, Vienna and finally onto Hungary.

June 21 (Krems to Vienna, Austria - riverboat)

Innsbruck to Melk, Austria (train)

Today was the rainiest so far, but I did manage to complete the intended route. Last night we (me, a Brit, and Takata) went out for a bite to eat and then a beer and talked a lot (mostly, I was interpreting - ugh). I got on the train with two other Americans from Oregon - also on their way to Hungary. We discussed travel in the Eastern Block (the guy had been in the USSR before, but his partner had not). And we agreed there were many Americans in Europe whom we were trying to avoid. As usual, it was a less-than-restful sleep on folded-out seats.

Melk, Austria

Arrived in Melk at 6:30am to a cold drizzle. I walked down to the river through town and past the HUGE Benedictine Abbey. I walked around to kill time and finally decided to walk up the hill to the church complex. Wow! It might have been the best I had seen on the trip so far. It was so ornate - gold everywhere. A service was going on, so I couldn't explore the interior. Unfortunately, there was no time to wait as the boat would leave soon. And, just my luck, as I was running to catch the boat it poured and I got soaked (the first time on the entire trip).

Melk to Krems, Austria (riverboat)

I dried off on the mostly empty boat. I joined two Australians from Tasmania (whom I would meet again in Krems). The boat was large and nice. We departed to the music of Strauss' "Blue Danube" and were then alternately serenaded with either live accordion music or muzak featuring artists like Madonna. It was very odd.

The boat was basically intended for dinner cruises (that seemed like fun!) Although it was rainy and misty, the ride was lovely through hill country. We passed castles, monasteries, villages, and vineyards. There was one especially striking town before Krems, Dürnstein. From the boat I saw the old town, a vivid blue church tower (with entry gate from the river), sharp cliffs, and a ruined castle on the hill.

Krems, Austria

Krems' old town was pleasantly reconstructed. It was becoming hard to compare all the small towns and cities with medieval squares... Krems probably did not merit a trip of its own, but it was much better than Melk. I chatted more with the Tasmanians and then bid them farewell. I explored most of the old town (in and out of churches). Some of the old building facades were very beautiful.

I went to the train station to grab a bite (Damn Austria! On Sundays nothing is open except the train station for food). It poured (again). Thank God I was inside. I reviewed various plans to get to Vienna, but as I had lots of time on my hands, I decided to take the local train back to Dürnstein.

Dürnstein, Austria

After a short train ride, I arrived to rain. It was a great little town though. No cars in the center and very old tunnels through the old houses down to the river. The ruined castle and its walls looked amazing (even in the rain). I thought it would make a great place to stay for a night - it was so atmospheric. I was on a schedule though...

Dürnstein to Vienna, Austria (river boat)

The boat arrived. I wished I had skipped Krems and spent more time in Dürnstein. I headed toward Vienna.

June 23 (Sopron, Hungary)

The long voyage to Vienna was mostly along the flat (yet relaxing) Danube. I met two women, Jennifer and Lee, who were from Alabama and Virginia - very down to earth types (just a little naive). I helped them get oriented upon arrival in Vienna later that day at the Reichsbrücke Docks (which was a totally different experience from when I arrived from Bratislava about two weeks before). On the boat ride we passed through two locks on the river (impressive), but that added a lot of time to the journey. No wonder trains had put canals out of business!

Vienna, Austria (again)

I made my way back to the youth hostel where I shared a room with an old Hungarian guy who insisted I visit Eger (his hometown) as it was so lovely (I'll try). In the morning I met the other guy in the room, Christian from Munich. We had a very cheery conversation and he later introduced me to his travel-mates, an Argentinian couple (the husband was studying Engineering in Munich). They were all very interesting people.

Of course, it was raining (what's new?) and I trudged down to the Südbahnhof. I met a very disagreeable newspaper vendor on the way who said to me and another American girl near me, "USA good country, bad president". Meanwhile, Austrian President Kurt Waldheim was a former Nazi?

I waited a long time in the station for the train.

Vienna, Austria to Sopron, Hungary (train)

First I boarded a train for Ebenforth. Then, I transferred to a little one-carriage, diesel train for Sopron. We passed through lovely rolling hills and villages - the scene reminded me of home (or Poland). The border was unmistakable when we neared it - a huge strip of barren earth that cut across the hills, forests, and farmland and a dark fence with guard towers. Yes, I was again about to enter the Warsaw Pact, but this was apparently NOT the "Iron Curtain" further north. I think I would name it the "Iron Cheesecloth" as it seemed far more porous between the two countries.

Sopron, Hungary

Customs and immigration were in Sopron Station and seemed almost like a joke. Although the guards were very serious with the Austrians, when they saw my passport they laughed and joked with me. It was very straightforward. I had been worried that my visa photo would cause a stir (it was with a moustache and I had a beard), but no comment at all. I walked to a travel agency and changed money. They had no free rooms, but they recommended two others. The next, IBUSZ (the official one), also had none. Finally, the last had something.

Walking down the streets of Sopron, right on the Austrian boarder felt strange. The Austrians with so much and the Hungarians with so little - literally side by side. However, it did not feel like the "oppression" of farther north but rather of people living two completely different lifestyles (one contemporary and one pre-war). The people in the house spoke no English nor German, but were super nice. The room and bathroom were HUGE (and clean) for only $4. I immediately knew Hungary was the place for me!

I stomped around the old town and checked train timings to Szombathely and Kőszeg - perhaps even trying to visit later that day. It is important, however, to describe the events of later that day/evening:

After walking around the old town (pleasant, not fantastic, but worlds better than similar in the West overrun by tourists), I stopped in a bar and talked with the bartender while tasting some local wine. Enter his friend, Andre (already a little drunk - well, so was I). He did speak some English (poorly). We talked and talked and he insisted I sleep at his house that night. I told him no (I already had a room and it was nearby - and nice!) We discussed many many things (he did most of the talking and I barely understood). After the bar, we went out for an excellent dinner. He finally convinced me to SEE his house so we went by taxi to a bizarre flat; the size was like those I had seen in Japan (quite small). It was a menagerie of rats, snakes, hamsters, cats, birds, and lord only knows what else. His wife and child were there and were extremely pleasant. Of course, I met all of the animals. Finally, he returned me to my room by taxi and insisted I stay with him for a few days. I promised to meet him again the following morning. Would it really happen? Was he that drunk?

UGH. I awoke to a hangover! It is the first bad one of the trip (perhaps?). Anyway, I can't remember the last time I drank so much and mixed alcohol.

I would find out about Andre later, but I have to leave Sopron. Now my problem is not money, it is time!

June 23 (Hotel, Kőszeg, Hungary)

The weather was great today, so I strolled around Sopron killing time. Andre didn't come to the bar where we met by 10:00am, so I assumed he forgot (or didn't wake up). I didn't wait... the train was leaving. At the station I met a Norwegian who had EVERYTHING stolen from him in Yugoslavia. Makes me think twice about going there. And, he said the people were rude - back to China for me?

Sopron - Kőszeg, Hungary (train)

On the train, I relaxed and watched the undulating farmland roll by. Just out of Sopron, the tracks go in and out of Austria, closely following the border. For such a peaceful land, it is a reminder of reality - very sad. The change at Szombathely (pron: som bah tai) was just in time. Then a policeman checked my passport (and laughed) - the man next to me said, "don't worry". I wasn't disturbing, just unusual.

Kőszeg, Hungary

As per earlier experience in Kőszeg everyone was very friendly; they helped me find a room and plan my travel to Lake Balaton. The old town was even quieter than Sopron. I had a delicious goulash lunch. Hungarian beer leaves a bit to be desired (perhaps I will stick to wine - delicious!). The castle museum was a waste, but it is a nice town to relax. I changed a traveler's check - half to USD and half to forint. The woman was nice about doing that for me and warned me I probably could not do the same in Budapest. So, I had lots of forint. The Norwegian guy gave me 300 as well (he was leaving). I can really relax in Hungary. I still have about $260 in hard currency. It should be enough to get me across Yugoslavia and to Athens (I hope!)

I bought my train tickets for the next day and went back to the travel office to find it was closed at 4:30pm (not 5:30pm). They were irate with me and a policeman was there. It was all ok after I apologized (I didn't really understand what was happening). They hastily gave me directions to the hotel, so I ended up getting off at the wrong stop and had to walk 30 minutes with me backpack - shit. The hotel/hostel is on a small mountain overlooking the city. It was so quiet and relaxing.

June 25 (Youth Hostel, Balatonfüred, Hungary)

Kőszeg - Balatonfüred, Hungary (train, bus)

I rode to Kőszeg Station with an old lady who was to watch after me (she did). Soon I was in Szombathely where I met a group of Americans who also didn't know what train to board. Luckily, one guy was Hungarian-American, so we were all finally aboard the correct one. The ride to Veszprem was through rolling hills - lovely to watch them pass by. Occasionally, there was a small stub of what might have once been a mountain. In Veszprem I asked directions in the Post Office and was told to go to the bus terminal by local bus (easy) and then I caught a long-distance bus departing immediately for Balatonfüred, which dropped me at the train station.

Lake Balaton, Hungary

I immediately found IBUSZ who at first said I had to pay about 500 forint per night (it was a resort area), but after a few protestations on my part. They looked at every cheap place they knew. My first choice, Tihany, was out of the question as it was very touristy. I finally was booked into a youth hostel where I was adopted by Istvan, a Hungarian psychology teacher and part-timer at the hostel. He helped me with everything. I even asked for a larger breakfast and got one! He helped me find a bicycle for the next day, too! Again, I was finding most Hungarians to be too kind to be true.

After that long walk from the station to the hostel, I relaxed. Istvan then took me to the local supermarket so I could get a cheap lunch (it was!) Finally, I changed into shorts! It was the first hot day since.... when?) I walked along the lakefront. There was a beautiful park by the docks with lots of people fishing or sunbathing (some both!). It felt so "summery" and relaxed. I took the ferry across the lake to Tihany (pron: Tee han).

I explored the old village with real thatched-roof homes. It was beautiful (and touristy - for Hungary), and I completely enjoyed it. The town sits on a high bluff on a peninsula in the lake. Although it rained a bit in the afternoon, it wasn't too bad. I stopped by a winekeller on the way back to the hostel. I slept very early!

It was one of the nicest days (weatherwise) since I've been in Europe!

(to be continued)

June 26 (Youth Hostel, Balatonfüred, Hungary)

A cloudy morning and much cooler, but I carried out the plan to use the bike. Istvan gave me a map, directions, and some suggestions for lunch. I set off.

After leaving Balatonfüred, the road follows the lakeshore closely. A few areas are swampy with many reeds yet are very tranquil compared to the more developed parts nearby. I rode to the end of the peninsula where the car ferry crosses to the other side, Tihany rév. Not much there, but I saw the other half of the lake (much larger). I sat in a park and relaxed. For lunch I came back to the old train station restaurant and it was pleasantly cheap and delicious. The waitress was a gem, especially when she found out I couldn't really speak German that well!

While having lunch it poured. Luckily, it let up by the time I was ready to leave. I bought my train tickets for Budapest (9:40am - slow train), but it's only 2.5 hours anyway. I returned the bike to the hostel and met two very cute Austrian guys, Franz and Kurt. We spoke a mixture of English and German (we managed to communicate). They were from Ybbs and worked in Melk. They were very happy to hear I had done the Danube Riverboat. We talked and had a few beers. Then we played bilingual scrabble (a real hoot!)

The next day the weather cleared up and Istvan said the forecast was "sunny and hot" (the morning was certainly sunny!). I do love summer, but when traveling with a big pack, slightly cooler weather is better.

June 27 (Budapest, Hungary)

Budapest, Hungary

The train to Budapest was pleasant - much of the time lakeside - after that fields and a swampy area. I arrived in my next big city.

Budapest appeared far less urban than I expected - many trees and homes with yards. In the South Station (Déli), I booked a room and bought my onward tickets south to Beograd. After that (and changing a bit more money), I went for a long walk to Esther Island. The place was lovely, forested, had a rose garden, and even contained Roman-era ruins (baths). There were sun bathers everywhere. I tried a soft-pretzel-like food and it tasted awful! Having walked the length of the island, I returned to find my apartment for the next three days. It is occupied by a midget and his wife. They were very very odd - clandestine about everything and then always giving me the third-degree (where are you going? what time will you return? Will it be very late?) However, at heart they were also kind - just strangely off-putting.

I returned to the station to eat (cafeteria food - not bad). Then I walked around the old part of Buda (inside the walls). As it was late, there were no people and it was pleasant. It reminded me of Prague's Castle Hill, although I found it to feel more friendly. Prague is, of course, superb, but that part of Budapest felt more "human". I retrieved my bag at the station and went to the room to sleep.

I actually felt surprised that I had accomplished so much in one day (and the weather was just great - hot and sunny!)

(to be continued)

June 28 (Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest, Hungary)

The morning felt chilly so I dressed warmly for my journey on the "Danube Bend". Unfortunately (and fortunately), it got hot and sunny so I was overdressed most of the day. The first stop, only 30 minutes by commuter train, was Szentendre. The town was completely touristy, yet also unique as it is also a very old settlement along the Danube that has been converted into an arts center (especially ceramics). The gallery of Margaret Kovacs was very enjoyable, filled with very bizarre creations (but quite nice). I managed to have a good look around the town before the day tourists arrived.

Visegrád, Hungary

I escaped by bus to Visegrád. That turned into a complete "adventure". The place is the site of a ruined fortress and palace set amongst the low mountains of the Danube Bend. It sits exactly where the river turns south on its journey toward the Black Sea. The structure looked more English than Hungarian in my mind. I got off the bus, found a road, and then entered a trail. The trail wasn't well-marked and soon I found myself slipping and sliding in the mud climbing the side of a small mountain. I reached the top and felt awful - hot, thirsty, and dirty. However, the views were incredible. The castle remains weren't much to see (nor the museum), but the best part was just being there, overlooking the river, and soaking in the view. I returned via the "correct" path to the city and stopped at the old palace ruins on the way. They were also not that interesting but were large. It must have been some palace in its day.

I grabbed a hamburger at the bottom (delicious!)

Esztergom, Hungary

I hopped the bus again to Esztergom whose claim to fame is holding the largest church in Hungary. It is HUGE. Nicely positioned on a hill overlooking the Danube and Czechoslovakia (across the river), the area also has a ruined palace and an "old town". However, all things pale in comparison to the massive basilica. I entered and saw a wedding in progress. The interior is austere. A long, spiral staircase inside leads to the roof giving a superb view of the countryside. It was a long, hot climb. I didn't spend much time as I had to buy my boat ticket back to Budapest.

I hurried down to the river dock and bought my ticket. There was still an hour before departure so I headed into the old town. I hurriedly ate a delicious meal in an old tavern located below the palace ruins. I rushed back to the dock to find the boat was an HOUR late (ugh)!

Eszetergom - Budapest, Hungary (boat)

Finally on the boat, I met an American, David, whose parents were Hungarian - nice guy to talk with. He was accompanied by his cousin, Erid. We talked a lot about Hungary. David came to learn Hungarian, so he's staying with relatives. The weather went from hot and sunny to a thunderstorm and then back to hot and sunny. We shared a few beers on the boat and promised to meet up the next day in the late afternoon - that should be fun.

The following day was beautiful from the start. After I re-arranged my pack, I talked with the lady of the house and her son. In the Eastern Block everyone wants to know about the other eastern countries and how they compare (and hear theirs is the best). In the case of Hungary, it just about is the best! The woman and her son were still quite odd - they appeared nervous all the time. I couldn't figure it out.

I went Keleti Station and got my ticket for the next day (as well as more information). I explored downtown Pest's shopping area - nice, but modern. However, there were parks and fountains which made it pleasant. I walked along the bank of the river which gave an excellent view of Buda Castle. I continued and saw the Parliament and then rode the subway to the City Park where I entered the large Heroes' Square, flanked by neo-classical buildings and holding a huge column and colonnade at the center. It appeared "Soviet" to me. The park's castle was very lovely, set on a small pond among some trees. The huge public baths looked more like a palace than the actual palace in the park! Budapest certainly has beautiful outdoor spaces.

I stopped by the opera, but found a woefully small building as compared to the one in Vienna or the Bolshoi in Moscow. After that, I walked back up the old castle hill to get a look inside St Matthew's Cathedral (previously closed) and to relax. For me, the best part of visiting Budapest was relaxing!

June 29 (Aggtelek, Hungary)

I strolled around a real people's park in Budapest before meeting David. It was nice to be in a non-tourist place and watch local people enjoying themselves. Later, I met David and Erid; they had just returned from Szentendre. We all went back to Erid's place (David's uncle and aunt) so they could change. I was welcomed warmly - very sweet people. They lived in true Budapest suburb, a little old, but very livable. Of course, they were unfailingly kind. Soon, David and I were off for dinner and drinks. He was a nice guy to talk to - very American, yet quite open on many topics. We found a place and it was expensive even by Hungarian standards. I was running out of forint and didn't want to change money again before leaving. But... there was live music and the food and wine were excellent. We strolled down by an old basilica and then finally into downtown Pest to have a last drink. I found a Gosser beer bar (that was one thing I liked in Austria). Our parting was a "subway goodbye" and I went back to the apartment in Buda. I prepared my stuff for the onward journey - I had an early departure.

I managed to wake up early and then the lady of the house tried to sell me some of her hand-made (tacky) crafts one last time before I left. Needless to say at 6:30am I am not in a "buying mood"... I checked my bags at the station after another ticketless ride on the subway - I couldn't figure out how to buy tickets. I was told if I was caught it would be bad, but I was also told that the fine was so small as to be laughable.

The waiting room was filled with sleeping travelers. It kind of reminded me of summer in Hokkaido back in Japan. The train stations were always filled with travelers sleeping rough.

Aggtelek, Hungary

The train to Miskolc was typical - we passed through a lot of farmland and rolling hills. It was very nearly pancake flat. As usual, I barely got on the connecting train, then hopped a bus, and I was at the famous caves in the area! It is so much easier to travel when people are kind.

The small mountains and caves were nice. The bus ride gave me some good looks at very rural villages and their inhabitants. People were very poor, but not ragged. The hostel was cheap, but the cave tour, pricey. The front desk reception (as usual) was super friendly and helpful. The cave tour-guide was very kind and gave a the chance for one man to interpret the Hungarian into (not sure?) after each spiele. The cave started out dull, but the main rooms were great. In some places it was navigable by boat and it held a huge concert hall. The lights were dimmed and we heard a short selection of classical music. Even though it was still "just a cave", it was worth the effort to get there. The whole area was so calm.

My main concern is only making it back to Budapest and having a good meal before the train to Beograd.

July 2 (Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade, Yugoslavia)

In the evening after seeing the caves, I climbed a steep rock face for a fine view over the rolling hills and farm country on the Czech-Hungarian border. I walked to the border to find it unremarkable except for the inspection toll-gate. I guess between Eastern Block countries, there is not that much concern about invasion. The sunset was slow and lazy. As I watched, I met Olga and Martin (and their kids Andrew and Martin, Jr.). They were visiting from Australia. Olga had immigrated from Yugoslavia and Martin from Hungary. Their kids spoke some Hungarian, but they were mostly Aussie. We spoke a lot and later met again at a slide show on the national park where the caves are located. Andrew explained the the highlights (it was in Hungarian). It was pleasant to meet a traveling family where both kids and parents are interesting!

In the morning I hurried out to catch the 7:40am bus only to find that I had been given incorrect information. It departed from the center of town and I was 2km outside! I was livid. So, I walked to town and waited almost three hours for the next bus. For a change, I felt bored waiting... The village was quite nice and I saw people doing some shopping with a traveling vendor. Really I was just focused on getting to Eger.

Aggtelek to Eger, Hungary (bus, train)

Finally, a nice guy helped me get on the right bus and then I boarded the train for Miskolc. From there I planned to take the bus to Eger, but I couldn't figure out how to find the bus station. I asked a bus driver, who drove me there with his bus (not on his route) and pointed me to the correct bus. Once again, Hungary just never ceased to amaze me with its kind people.

Eger, Hungary

I arrived in Eger and after some initial disorientation, I changed more money (didn't want to, but no choice). I asked about the last train to Budapest. Then I treated myself to a huge meal below Eger Cathedral. Eger was not the most fantastic city I visited, but it was very nice sitting among its hills and vineyards in the Bükk Mountains. The ride from Miscolc had been pleasant through that "mini wine country". Eger's famous red wine (Bulls Blood) tastes great!

I saw the old castle and walked the old part of town. It was not spectacular, but the mood of the place was laid back. I wished I didn' t have to rush through it all (which I literally did). Unfortunately, I overate (and drank), so I felt kind of sick on the return ride to Budapest.

Budapest, Hungary (again)

Back in Budapest, I collected my things and waited at Nyugati Station (West Station) where I met a bunch of AISEC students and we talked. I found a Canadian, a Swede, and a Belgian on their way to Beograd, too. Although we did not ride together, it was comforting to know I wasn't the only Westerner on the train (as I had been many times before).

Budapest, Hungary to Belgrade, Yugoslavia (train)

The ride was not too comfortable and even in First Class the seats didn't fold together to make a bed. It didn't matter that much - with an early morning border crossing (3:30am) who was going to sleep anyway?

(to be continued)

July 3 (a park, Belgrade, Yugoslavia)

The border crossing was long and I had to get off the train to get my visa stamp. I was momentarily worried as a bunch of Greeks in front of me were having a hard time (and being charged fees), but mine was no hassle and free (Thank God!). The train totally filled up from the border town, Subotica, onward. The part of Serbia we crossed into was much like Hungary, rolling hills.

Belgrade, Yugoslavia

I changed money in the station and then set off (in the heat) to find a room. I went to the Central Tourist Office to find it "closed for a short break". I had an ice cream to cool off. Some of the ice cream I've had in Eastern Europe has been more like Cool Whip, it is so light and fluffy (I preferred what I had in Czechoslovakia). I returned to the tourist office and they directed me to a private room agency where I met Tau Cheng from Singapore. He was a very nice guy who wanted to share a room. We waited a very long time together. We also met Jan who was waiting for some friends for a room as well. Unluckily, the room we were given was a 30 minute bus ride out in the suburbs.

We boarded a bus and a man who spoke fluent French told us where to disembark (one stop too late). After asking six different people, we finally located the room. It was a basement apartment and not so great, but then again, it was clean and had a shower and toilet. After some serious clean up (shower) and relaxing, Tau Cheng and I returned to town and walked all over the old part of the city. I found it dull. The castle park was nice, but the castle itself wasn't much. The view over the junction of the Sava and Danube Rivers is quite lovely.

Beograd is a hot, semi-old, semi-modern, dirty place. It reminded me of downtown York, PA (just bigger). We ate in a stand-up place for less than $2 and I bought my ticket to Ruma to visit Mrs. Lukas' village. It took a lot of inquiries, but I finally found a map with her original village on it (Putinci). My plan was to spend the next day getting there and exploring.

I couldn't get a train ticket to Dubrovnik, so I went to the bus station to find I could only purchase one the following day. I did manage to book my ticket to Greece from Dubrovnik which turned into an odyssey of trying to put it on my Visa card, failing, and then trying to find a place that would give me a cash advance on my card. I eventually accomplished it all (with Tau Cheng in tow). I got the money and the ticket. My only concern was getting out of Beograd and onto Dubrovnik. Tau Cheng was just killing time as his flight to Singapore was the following day. He didn't mind tagging along with me for all my travel drama (considering how dull and uninteresting Beograd was). At the end of the day we met Jan and Bob and Robert (her friends) and all went out for a beer. We were happy to sit down!

(to be continued)

July 3 (Skadarlija, Beograd, Yugoslavia)

We were certainly a mismatched group of five people: Tau Cheng, a very upstanding, new generation Singaporean; Jan, a 2o year-old who just finished a six-month study in Africa (he lived there as a child and later moved to Iowa); Bob, a total right-wing "I love Amerka" guy from Allentown (I disliked him instantly, but he was friendly); and Robert, a laid back Swede who was traveling with Bob (how they got together, who knows?). We shared stories over beers. Robert's parents were Slovenian so he could get by in Serbo-Croatian. I think only Slavic languages will be helpful here - they all seem so interrelated. I promised to meet Jan the next day to share the room after Tau Cheng left. Tau Cheng and I went back early so I could purchase some eye drops (my eyes have been irritated since Budapest). Finally, we returned to the room for a long sleep.

The next morning Tau Cheng and I parted ways as I had to get to the bus station early to buy my ticket to Dubrovnik and then catch the bus to Ruma. The ticket was only for 3pm so I had to take that or stay another night. That meant giving up on seeing Mrs Lukas' hometown, but I simply did not want to stay in Beograd longer than necessary.

Finding Putinci, Serbia, Yugoslavia

The ride to Ruma was through more farm country that looked like "home". I changed buses and after some confusion finally got off in Putinci. The village held nothing of note except that it was very rural. In the center stood an old Catholic church as a reminder of the German community that used to live there. I got the impression that the village had no running water in their homes as the village well was in constant use. Everyone was very friendly (and they have been everywhere in Yugoslavia, contrary to what I had heard). They told me about the old church (in Serbian). I slowly walked around noting it was a mix of things from both Eastern and Western Europe. It was just that mix that made Yugoslavia "the land between". I grabbed some ham and cheese at a shop and then caught the bus back to Ruma and then onto Beograd. I felt satisfied to have visited a town that had influenced my growing up so much (albeit indirectly). It was a big goal of the trip accomplished. I didn't feel too bad not to visit Mr. Lukas' village, too. I had the feeling all such villages were the same and no one spoke English (nor German).

I had a full afternoon of nothing to do (and it was stinking hot). I returned to the castle park to catch up with this journal (and listened to my walkman). I met two, young Polish-Australians who were traveling around Europe. They didn't have too much good to say about anything in the East. I couldn't blame them. I met a few Swedes at the station later who lived near the Arctic Circle. They were very friendly. Finally I met Jan who was relieved I remembered to meet him as his great fear was having to spend a night in the rough at the train station. We had a beer and talked all the way back to room on the bus. He really has it all together for a 20 year-old. I enjoyed meeting him.

Today I leave Beograd. The city is the worst I have seen on the entire trip. Even as I sit in the restored "old section" of town and write, I wish I were on my way to the sunny, blue Adriatic. Jan left - he was headed to Istanbul. Lucky guy!

July 6 (Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia)

Beograd to Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia (bus)

Thirteen hours on a bus filled with temperamental Serbs and little or no A/C. Bad weather kept the windows shut a lot of the journey. However, the journey wasn't that terrible compared to others I experienced in the last few months. Sarajevo (even at night) looked like a nice place to return one day. I arrived in Dubrovnik at 4:00am.

Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia

I waited until 6:00am for an old man who had promised me a room, but then later backed down. I went up to the youth hostel and while waiting I met a Serbian/Greek guy who was nice, but a little too impressed with himself (surprisingly, he had no job nor money). He ended up being my comic relief that morning. The youth hostel was (of course) full, but the absolutely great guy working there found me a room in a pension for a very reasonable price. The room was freshly painted (still smelled - yuck), spotless, and overlooked the Adriatic. The young couple who managed it were adorable - so kind and friendly. I got a bit freshened up and then headed off to the old city.

Wow.... Dubrovnik. A walled city, all intact, all preserved, built by the Venetians on one of Europe's most spectacular coastlines. Who would NOT fall in love with it? I wandered its back streets, stumbled upon a peach vendor, bought some, and then.... I met Tim C!

He said he had waited for me in Rome, but when I didn't show up, he took off for Yugoslavia. We had a great time catching up and talked about how much living abroad had changed our lives (and how difficult it would be returning to the States). Tim was so much more relaxed than I had ever seen him. I think the move to Rome was a good one. We spent most of our time strolling, eating, and talking. We took a fabulous motor scooter ride down the coast (he had rented one) and then another nice day out on Lokrum Island nearby. Tim left and I returned to Lokram to swim with an old mask he left for me to use. Dubrovnik was a real highlight of the trip!

Tomorrow I take the boat to Greece!