Mexico: Chacchoben Ruins, Quintana Roo

January 2026

Archaeological evidence places the earliest human presence in the Chacchoben region around 1000 BC. Excavations reveal a complex history of occupation, abandonment, and resettlement. The site's structures bear the marks of multiple modifications, with the most significant alterations occurring between 300 and 360 AD, a period of notable development and change. Archaeological evidence indicates that Chacchoben continued to hold ceremonial significance long after the apparent collapse of the Maya civilization. Numerous rituals were performed within its abandoned temples. However, this vibrant cultural tapestry was dramatically altered upon the arrival of the Spanish in the 15th century. The subsequent conquest of Mexico and Central America ushered in a new era for the Maya people, marked by profound changes in their population, religion, and way of life. By 1847, the Yucatan Peninsula was in turmoil. The Maya population, grappling with the profound changes brought about by Spanish colonization, erupted in rebellion. The Caste War, led by the Maya Cruzob, marked a final, desperate struggle against Mexican control of the peninsula. The 50-year Caste War was a period of immense suffering for the Maya people. Entire towns were razed, forcing families to flee their homes and seek refuge in British Honduras (now Belize) and Guatemala. Amidst this turmoil, the sacred rituals and pilgrimages to Chacchoben ceased. As the conflict raged, the site was abandoned to the encroaching jungle, disappearing into obscurity. The modern history of Chacchoben begins in 1942. A local Maya farmer named Serviliano Cohuo, while searching for fertile land, stumbled upon the forgotten city. Intrigued by the ancient ruins, he established his home at the base of the Gran Basamento, marking the beginning of a unique coexistence between man and monument. Over time, his children grew up playing amidst the majestic remnants of their ancestors' civilization.

https://www.chacchobenruins.com/history

Honestly speaking, cruise ship excursions to historical sites are rarely "good". Hundreds of tourists are bused to places and then guides of varying quality lead often bored visitors around as they click photos. The visit to Chacchoben was definitely an exception - the guide was excellent, and the site was surprisingly not mobbed (and in excellent condition).

The ride from the port of Mahahual is mostly through swampy scrubland. The Yucatan is FLAT. I wondered how it could have supported those ancient cities - it does, however, have one key element for life: a lot of clean groundwater. After an hour's drive, we arrived at the complex and visited three pyramids. They are not as massive as others in Mexico, but they are in good condition and still impress. I became an instant "Maya Fan" after the visit. Interestingly, Chacchoben remains mostly unexcavated - remains of other buildings are clearly scattered around the site. I often wonder why in such cases the Mexican government doesn't invite a well-monied university from Europe or North American to come and help restore more buildings. That would be a win-win - especially if done in collaboration with a Mexican university.

The journey also passed over the rails of the new "Tren Maya" which loops around the peninsula. I was impressed as it is all electrified with a double set of rails. It was built in an unbelievable four years! The Yucatan is mostly jungle or swamp, so the undertaking was massive. Granted there was a lot of discussion about environmental damage, at least rails are not as bad as roads (and it is electric). I added to my list another potential adventure - riding the new train in Mexico.

The tour was mostly a "teaser", but it made me realize that Mayan ruins are something interesting and that the Mexican government has invested a lot in their upkeep (I was impressed).

Tikal (in Guatemala) and Chichen Itza remain two big items on my punch list.