Mexico: San Gervasio, Cozumel

San Gervasio is an archaeological site of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization, located in the northern third of the island of Cozumel off the northeastern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, in what is now the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. San Gervasio's pre-Hispanic name was Tantun Cuzamil, Mayan for Flat Rock in the place of the Swallows. The ruins were once a hub of worship of the goddess Ix Chel, an aged deity of childbirth, fertility, medicine, and weaving. Pre-Columbian Maya women would try to travel to San Gervasio and make offerings at least once in their lives. In 1560, the Spanish historian, Diego Lopez de Cogolludo, wrote: "The pilgrims arrive at Cozumel for the fulfillment of their vows to offer their sacrifices, to ask help for their needs, and for the mistaken adoration of their false gods." The bishop of Yucatán, Diego de Landa, wrote in 1549 that the Maya "held Cozumel in the same veneration as we have for pilgrimages to Jerusalem and Rome, and so they used to go to visit and offer presents there, as we do to holy places; and if they did not go themselves, they always sent their offerings."

(Wikipedia)

January 2026

Another cruise ship excursion took a remarkably small group of people to the culturally significant temple site at San Gervasio on the island of Cozumel. Considering five huge ships arrived disgorging over 20,000 people in one morning, hardly 50 were visiting the archeological site during my time there. No complaints from my side, just an observation.

Our tour guide was funny, although I often wonder how much of the information given on such tours is "accurate". One thing the guide highlighted was that there is no St. Gervasio in Roman Catholicism. The man who owned the land near the ruins was named Gervasio and took on the title after discovering the place on his ranch. I found that hilarious.

The temple site is very old, but the ruined buildings (and not much remains) are all from the latest Mayan period just as the Spanish were arriving. The temple was in use until the Spanish understood what was going on and forbade it. The temple was dedicated to marriage and fertility with people traveling long distances to seek its blessing.

The interior of Cozumel is much like the rest of the Yucatan, largely scrub forest. The island was never heavily populated because it simply could not support many people. The main "business" of the island in pre-Columbian days was religion - San Gervasio was an important pilgrimage site.

I felt happy for the visit and seeing a part of the island about which most people don't care. I was again impressed with how seriously the Mexican government cares for its archeological sites, too.