Ruby Princess: San Francisco to Hawaii (and back)

January-February, 2026

For a long time, Hawaii was never on my radar. Honestly speaking, I had been to so many tropical islands in other countries (as well as Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands), I wasn't in any hurry to visit. An expensive flight, expensive hotels, expensive.... everything - what was my motivation to go? Add to that, many people I knew who had visited (or lived there) returned "mystically transformed" (which also happens to tourists in Bali). I had no time for such nonsense.

Later in life, however, when I considered which states I visited in the US, I realized that I would not experience America fully if I, in fact, omitted the Aloha State. In "the year that I cruised a lot" (as I eased into retirement), I found a very cheap cruise out of San Francisco. Finally, I was going to a place I never thought I would visit.

Getting to the Pier

The train from Los Angeles stopped in Emeryville (Oakland) much later than I like to arrive to a new place - 9:30pm. I booked an expensive room at a nearby Hyatt - just a five-minute walk from the station. Luckily, the train was on time. I was nervous even for the short walk to the hotel because Emeryville is still "Oakland" when all is said and done. Oakland's crime reputation worried me. It was all for naught though - the area around the train station is largely developed with shopping and hotels. I never felt unsafe.

I checked into a very nice room and slept.

The next morning after breakfast I checked out and walked to the Emery Go-Round bus stop near the hotel. Bonus points for Emeryville: they provide residents and visitors a free bus every 15 minutes to BART that makes a full loop around the downtown area. Buying a BART card (a clipper card) was super-counterintuitive - I did it with difficulty even after watching a how-to YouTube video. How ironic that the San Francisco metro area hosts Silicon Valley and a public transport system that is both automated and visitor-opaque (much like New York City's). Finally, with a loaded card I reached the platform of Macarthur Station in Oakland. Again, it was completely unclear which trains were arriving on which platforms in which direction. I saw one headed to SF Airport (I thought, "that has to pass by my destination"). I jumped on.

I absolutely HATE taking BART under the Bay. In a seismic zone, the tube would never survive a major quake.

I exited at Embarcadero and slowly walked toward Pier 27, the cruise terminal for the City by the Bay. I was shocked at how empty downtown was for a business day at 10am. I clicked a couple of photos of the Transamerica Tower as I walked by - no longer the tallest in the city. I arrived by the pier and had my first view of the massive "Ruby Princess", my home for the next 16 days.

Embarcation

A lot of people were already queued up to join the cruise and it was early (read: before official check-in at 11:00am). One day, I would like to check in at 1:00 or 2:00pm after most people have boarded. Usually I am checking out of a hotel and have nowhere to go except on the ship. I dropped my bag with an overly aggressive porter who demanded a tip. I had one small roll on bag which I placed on the cart myself - what "service" was I supposed to be tipping? With some concern the guy might deliberately "lose" my bag, I joined the check-in queue.

This being my fourth cruise in a short space of time, I must comment that the days of long waits to check in are mostly over. My recent cruises on Princess and Norwegian have provided very fast entry to the ship. Yes, there are queues, but they move remarkably fast. In no time, I was onboard.

I found a seat (it was too early to eat) and logged my phone onto the internet. I let myself relax - I was on the ship.

After checking into my muster station and watching the safety video, I had a light lunch. I enjoyed drinks at two of the bars that would be "candidates" as my favorite for the rest of the cruise. One, as per usual, overlooked the pool area on the top deck and another was at the rear of the ship overlooking the ship's wake (my first time at such a bar). I figured for outside bars, they would likely be my hang outs. At the rear bar I met a couple of guys from Seattle who were frequent cruisers and we had a nice conversation. Once again, I felt that I had almost taken NO cruises compared to them. Some people must only take cruises as vacations all their lives.

The sail away from San Francisco (on a brilliant sunny day) only rivalled leaving New York City. The views over the city, the bridges, the islands, and finally the Golden Gate were nothing short of astounding. It has to be one of the best maritime exits in America. What a start to the cruise!

The temperatures soon dropped after we left the coast and I retired to my room to watch TV and relax. I ended up sleeping extremely early - I had built up stress worrying about the journey to Oakland, to San Francisco, and then onto the ship. Most of my concerns (as usual) were overblown, but I felt them nonetheless. Once I finally was onboard and settled (and my bag actually arrived), I crashed.

Day 2 (at sea)

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about the first day at sea was the weather. It was windy, cloudy, with a high of 59F. So much for enjoying the outdoor bars. The bar overlooking the pool was windy - I felt sorry for the bartender. Then I tried my best at the bar at the rear of the ship (protected from the wind) - but it was simply too cold. Everyone on the ship was talking about it, too (and I think many had not brought proper clothes).

After some online research and the port presentation on Honolulu (by "Hawaiian Ambassadors" - shipboard entertainers from Hawaii), I realized the ship would dock downtown. I planned to take a long walk in the city - my preferred way to explore any new place. I would give Pearl Harbor a miss (I saw the movie - several, in fact). I was in New York on 9/11 - that is my own "day that will live in infamy".

I bought two excursions (pricey - but nothing in Hawaii is cheap): one for Kauai and one for Maui. They were discounted that morning. For the Big Island, not only were all the tours very expensive, they were also mostly sold out. So, I was still giving that port a lot of thought.

The ship's crew opened the walkway to the bow from Deck 7 (actually, Deck 8 because there was a set of stairs up to the bow overlook). That made it possible to circle the ship for exercise. I found no sign that posted the length of one circuit so I thought I'd ask in the fitness center. I met the two young, super-fit guys who ran the gym and asked them: no idea (and they actually felt embarrassed not to know). I just went with 3x = 1 mile, although I thought it was probably longer. (later I finally found the one sign - hidden by a stairwell - that indicated 2.5 times around = 1 mile)

I attended a lecture on how the Hawaiian Islands formed which included an explanation of "hot spots" and continental drift. The presenter was a university professor, too. Wow! I found it all fascinating (but I wondered how many people understood him - he got very detailed). His lecture (and the "Hawaiian Ambassadors") made me appreciate how much more Princess prepares passengers for ports than Norwegian Cruise Lines. With Norwegian, either passengers take an NCL excursion (with no explanation beforehand) , or they are left on their own with almost no information. Important takeaway: the hotspot that created Hawaii started up near the Aleutian Islands!

Since the outdoor bars were cold and the indoor ones mobbed, I elected to get a latte and listen to a violin/cello duo doing covers of classic rock songs in the piazza. Although it seemed like something I would NOT like, the musicians were actually good and I enjoyed it.

On my evening walkabout I caught the sun sinking into the sea, cloudless. As usual, it was stunning. The sea heaved in long, big swells all day. The swimming pools were crashing around like crazy - tidal wave after tidal wave.

I retired to my room and watched TV - Princess has so much better in-stateroom entertainment.

Of note: there was a large contingent of Amish on the ship. (read that again, Amish - like speaking German, Amish). They were from all over - many young people with a few oldsters. I wondered if it was some attempt at a young people's mixer. They kept to themselves (and got bombarded with questions by fellow passengers - which was hilarious). I came upon a group who were talking about having problems connecting to the internet only to find they had old style cell phones (really??), not smart phones: no app = no internet. I explained that to them and said they might use a laptop as an alternative. Apparently, they all brought laptops (again, ???). As they were wearing name tags indicating where they were from on the first day, I saw one woman from Gap, PA in the group and said, "Hey, I am from near there". In classic Amish form, she blanked me. It was fine to talk to me about the internet and a problem they were experiencing - but nothing more. I felt like I was back home (or Saudi Arabia - not sure).

Day 3 (at sea)

One thing I like about Princess cruises is that the drink package includes specialty coffee. I like to know I can both sit at the bar for a drink or get a latte. Unfortunately, I had only found one coffee shop making specialty coffee down on Deck 5 (and the morning buffet was high up on Deck 15). That meant grabbing my coffee (and not spilling it as the ship rolled around on the Pacific Ocean) and carrying it up 10 decks to breakfast. (note: a day later I found an upstairs coffee bar (outside and hidden) to get my latte - the best part was the barista, Stix, from Zimbabwe. The man was infectiously positive)

Day 3 was much warmer than the previous day. The ship was not only heading west, but also south. However, the day was overcast and it was not quite "pleasant" enough to sit comfortably at the bar at the back of the ship. I did, however, stay a short time in the late morning with a couple from Scotland who regaled me with their travel tales. They had really gotten around. Question: are all Scottish people unaware how difficult it is to understand them?

Amish update: while at the bar, a young guy and his wife ordered a strong drink and then dumped it into his water thermos. I was thinking ... you are kidding me, right?

I attended a lecture on different types of volcanoes in the morning which ended with a focus on those of Hawaii. The professor made a good presentation. I continued to appreciate Princess' effort to make the cruise an informative experience so people could understand more of what they were visiting. In the afternoon, I took in the lecture on Kauai by the "Hawaiian Ambassadors". They gave a good overview of the island and its history. I wish they had given more practical information, but they had a lot to cover in a short period of time. The couple sitting next to me were on their third cruise to Hawaii from San Francisco.

On one of my walks around the promenade I saw a young woman at the bow in a very small bikini taking selfies. I truly admired her confidence. On my third pass she asked me, "This is the front of the ship, right?". I replied, "yes", but asked myself, "how do you survive in this world?" Standing on the bow of the ship should have made it clearly obvious, right?

That evening was the first "formal night", so after dinner I retreated earlier than usual to the room. Down in the fabulous multi-level piazza and in all the restaurants couples were dining dressed to the nines. Not my scene, but some people do love to dress up and I can't fault them for that. Jack-and-Rose Syndrome - I wonder if Carnival Corporation (parent company of Princess) invested in the film Titanic?

I went to bed early and was awakened several times by the ship's movement and thunderous claps against the hull. The captain's prediction of "rough seas" on Day 4 had apparently arrived.

Day 4 (at sea)

The morning of day four started with a nearly empty ship - the weather overnight had done many people in. I saw a woman with a freshly broken arm (I assumed from the cast) and bruises on her face. What bothered me personally was the sound - almost like small explosions. I could only pray that the ship was well-built. When a large wave hit, the whole ship shuddered.

The lecture on Hawaii Island (we were told that the locals are trying to move people away from using "the Big Island") was informative and gave me confidence that the port of Kona (where I had nothing specific planned) would be a nice place to stroll around for half a day. I skipped the professor's lecture on whales - I knew a lot already from National Geographic and Animal Planet.

The weather finally turned warm enough to ditch jackets - I felt happy for that at least. Sitting at the bar was pleasant and by the afternoon, the outdoor spaces were filled up with people (the first time since our departure from San Francisco).

Walking around the promenade in big swells was like being in a "fun house" when I was a kid - especially at the front and back. When we dipped down, it felt like gravity was reduced by 50% and then on the upswing, the reverse happened and my body felt twice as heavy. I am not sure I could ever be an astronaut. Thank God I don't get seasick - apparently many passengers were (and the crew said the seas were comparatively "not all that bad"). Yikes.

The pools were drained (or all the water had sloshed out of them).

I met yet more frequent cruisers at the bar. Some people were taking this very same voyage for the 4th or 5th time. The topic turned to the likelihood of someone having a medical emergency on the ship (high) and getting treatment in Hawaii. At least they would still be in the US and most plans covered doctor's visits. "Evacuation Insurance", however, was a completely different topic. Unless a passenger's insurance covers it, if the Coast Guard is mobilized to transfer someone via helicopter or boat, that cost is not borne by the cruise line.

I enjoyed a late afternoon latte in the over-the-top Piazza listening to a man on piano playing covers of 70s and 80s music (which spoke to most of the passengers). He wasn't bad considering he was not depending on canned background music - just the piano. A lot of cruise entertainment these days uses pre-recorded background music.

I once again retired early to the room to watch a movie as I relaxed in bed. We were gaining another hour that night (the last time change).

Day 5 (at sea)

Finally the weather was "warm" and people were out in the sun to enjoy it. Unfortunately, the pools were off limits because of the heavy seas and most of the promenade deck was closed due to sea spray. When I did manage to get outside and saw the ship hammered by a large wave, I totally understood. The last thing the captain needed was having a passenger swept off the ship by a rogue wave. The Ruby Princess is a large ship and the Pacific still pummeled her. It was sobering.

I had short conversations with a variety of people that day - some I had met before and others for the first time. Several people engaged in trying to impress each other - I just smiled and thought it was a waste of effort and rendered conversation dull. One woman expounded on having been to Japan (living on a military base as a child and later taking a cruise around the islands). I responded by saying, "That's wonderful. I see you have been to Hokkaido". Surprised, she asked me, "How did you know?". I replied, "Well that's what your t-shirt says" (it was only written in Japanese). I had a huge internal laugh and she changed the topic.

The talk on Maui was informative (it was also the last lecture on the islands). The "Hawaiian Ambassadors" spent a lot of time discussing the Lahaina Fire a couple of years before. They showed before and after photos - the event was devastating (and the town had been a lovely old whaling port). Luckily, the government was prioritizing rebuilding. However, there was much discussion as to how it should be rebuilt - true to the old town or a new reboot.

The lecture on the flora and fauna of the islands by the professor was also interesting. As with many islands, contact with humans from the Polynesians to the Europeans did not bode well for local species. Hawaii has lost about 50% of its native birds and animals since humans arrived. Invasive plant species have also seriously impacted the islands mostly due to the whimsies of exotic gardeners. Now there are strict controls, but it is a case of closing the barn door after the cow has run off.

I spent time making plans for my Honolulu walkabout. It was still unclear exactly at which pier we would be docking. Thank God for phones and maps - that is one thing that has made travel a lot easier worldwide.

I took in the violin and cello players again in the late afternoon and came back to the room to rest.

When I woke, we would be in Hawaii.

Day 6 (Honolulu, Oahu)

The ship arrived about 30 minutes late to Honolulu. I wasn't surprised given how heavy the seas had been the final two days of the crossing. We docked at Pier 10 and the famous Aloha Tower, formally the highest building in the city. After breakfast and checking emails, I disembarked and took a long morning walk through "Old Honolulu" with a side trip to Ala Moana which provides excellent views of Waikiki and Diamond Head. [see: Honolulu, Hawaii]

By the time I returned to the boat I was sunburned and very tired. I had walked a solid three hours.

I contemplated getting off the ship again after a break for a second walkabout, but I was too tired. I had gotten a good taste of the city - that's all I wanted.

Back on the ship in the late afternoon, some of my bar friends returned and told me what they had done during the day. One couple did the ship's tour to Pearl Harbor and due to the bus arriving late and not being able to use their timed tickets, they literally saw nothing. That excursion was expensive, too. Another couple took a taxi and did it on their own. Granted the taxi was expensive, it did not even approach the cost of an excursion (x2 for two people). And - the couple who went independently saw everything.

Their experience made me wary of the following day's tour in Kauai. I hoped it would go OK - ship excursions are such crap shoots.

I talked to one of the bartenders, Vincent, from St Lucia. He was in Hawaii for the first time and was unimpressed with Honolulu. I told him that he would probably like the other islands better if he had the chance to get off the ship. He spoke about how strictly his parents raised him and his siblings on St Lucia. They always had to stay home and do their homework and chores - no roaming around the island. Then he pointed out that he and his siblings are all successful as adults, and his friends whose parents let them to their own devices as teenagers "haven't amounted to much". I told him that he has very good parents, and he strongly agreed.

Sunset, Honolulu Harbor.

I retired early - my feet ached (but I needed the exercise). I looked forward to Kauai and seeing more of "fantasy Hawaii" - which Honolulu was definitely not.

Day 7 (Nawiliwili, Kauai)

The boat arrived at Nawiliwili at first light. The primary harbor for the island is flanked by tall, steep mountains on one side. The setting is dramatic - I was impressed. Unfortunately, the pier is part of a container/industrial port and that mars the experience considerably. Near the pier lies a lovely beach that many cruisers opted to visit. I took an excursion to see some of Kauai's famous natural scenery. [see: Kauai, Hawaii] It was an excellent choice. Kauai truly is the most beautiful of the islands and often used by Hollywood as a location backdrop.

Upon returning to the ship (around 2pm - everyone on the bus tour was famished), I went directly for lunch. I had some drinks afterward where I caught up with the couple from Massachusetts that I met at the bar several times. They took the same tour and we agreed that Waimea Canyon was worth the long bus ride.

Although I considered getting off the boat again to see the beach, not much time was left and I didn't want to feel rushed. Instead, I walked a few laps around the ship and then relaxed in the room until closer to sunset.

The sail away from Kauai was epic - we all watched the sun sink into the Pacific with the steep mountains of Kauai off to the side. The ship held a huge party with music at the back of the ship. The normally peaceful area where I hung out it was loud and mobbed. I gave up on getting a drink and just watched the sun sink into the sea from the railing with the thump thump thump of music drifting over the water.

After the crowd cleared, I returned to the bar and met some other regulars. The Scots had taken a taxi tour and declared it "shite". We all felt sorry for them because the rest of us enjoyed good excursions. I think the Scottish people were in shock over how expensive the tours onboard were - I didn't blame them. Many passengers were outspoken about the high cost of tours in Hawaii.

I had a snack and another walkabout on the promenade before calling it a night.

We would be arriving in Kona in the morning.

Day 8 (Kona, Hawaii) - cancelled

As I sat at the computer checking emails in the morning the PA system inside the cabin (only used for the most important messages) came on. It was the captain. I knew some was up.

"Due to the heavy seas and out of an abundance of caution for both passenger and crew safety, we are cancelling the stop in Kona and spending the day at sea".

Well, shit.

Sea day instead of Kona.

I looked forward to Kona because everyone said it was a nice small town. Apparently the issue was not boarding the tender from the ship (the sea was relatively calm). The problem was disembarking at the pier where the swells were large and would have made it difficult for people to safely get off the small transfer boats. Given how many old and infirm people were on the boat (at least 60%), I understood the captain's judgement call.

On a long cruise with only four stops in Hawaii, missing even one was HUGE.

I felt sad and frustrated (everyone did). Later, I came to know that the port of Hilo on the other side of the island has a proper pier. After that, I was told by the crew that Kona was often "missed" due to rough seas. Why on earth did the ship not stop at Hilo? (other cruise lines did) The answer was weather.

The Hawaiian Islands have two sides, a dry one (west) and a wet one (east). Almost all of our stops were on the dry side of each island. However, given the choice of a port where there might be some showers and spending another day at sea, I would have chosen the rain.

So, it felt very much like a "lost day".

Amish update: Some people at the bar have spotted them rolling cigarettes and drinking alcohol on the top decks. The very top decks are the most secluded on the ship

I caught the ship's band doing 80's covers in the Piazza in the early evening - they weren't bad, but the male lead's falsetto voice was piercing and loud. He could have brought it down a notch.

I looked forward to Maui the following day (where I had a tour booked)

Day 9 (Kahului, Maui)

The ship entered Kahului Harbor to a mix of showers and sun. The views over the western half of the island were lovely - the east was completely shrouded in mist. I hoped that the upcoming tour would have good weather. Unfortunately, it rained the whole day. [see: Maui, Hawaii]

Kahului is the main shipping port for the island, so it is industrial (unfortunately). Before Lahaina burnt down (a huge topic with the locals - even two years after the event), cruise ships used to call there instead. Apparently, a lot of wrangling between insurance companies, the state government, and landowners has held up the reconstruction. Lahaina has a long history on Maui and most islanders (and visitors) would like to see it rebuilt "as it was".

All Hawaiian ports are served by only one shipping company, Matson. It has a complete monopoly in the state. Besides the issue of its business model appearing "illegal", that company also determines the prices of goods in a state that is almost entirely dependent on imported goods to survive. How can such a practice continue when the locals dislike it and are impacted negatively by it? What about anti-trust laws?

Luckily, the day's rain was mostly light and endurable. As our guide pointed out, without the rain, Hawaii would not be the garden spot it is. In another stroke of luck, the highlight of the tour, Iao Valley, was misty but rain-free. The wet in that valley during our visit actually accentuated the green that permeates everything.

All the ports in Hawaii have extremely strict security, with our IDs and ship passes being checked several times. We were told it was for our safety - everyone called out the "bullshit". In foreign ports we only had to show our ship pass to reenter the cruise port and ship - our ship passes were scanned electronically and attached to a photo on file which was verified before we boarded. How could someone else enter? It felt strange having more security inside the US than outside - was Hawaii so dangerous?

I met up with my Scottish friends later in the afternoon at the bar onboard and they were rained on most of the day on their private taxi tour. However, they were happy to be off the ship and spent less money than with a ship-sponsored tour (x2). Mostly the husband was complaining that his wife bought a piece of overpriced jewelry in a mall. "Damn, this rain - she went shopping".

We all dreaded the crossing back to Mexico (Ensenada). Five days at sea and the captain announced that the return would be very similar to the outward journey (which meant a few days of heavy seas).

I listened to the piano/singer do a few covers in the piazza and then retreated to the room for a movie.

Hawaii was finished. I was still questioning if it had been worth it.

Day 10 (at sea)

The first full sea day on the return turned out to be good. We had sunny skies nearly all day and the seas were not overly rough. I thought, "maybe it won't be so bad".

Then I read a random headline from Hawaii. A huge storm was approaching the state and the governor recommended people exercise extreme caution - that was serious. And, that storm was on the heels of the ship. I checked the radar map to see a massive band of clouds stretching across the Pacific just behind our intended route.

By late afternoon, it overtook us (at least the clouds). We all wondered... were the next four day going to be cloudy and cold in heavy seas? We were concerned.

I attended a destination lecture on Ensenada (which was actually a marketing attempt to sell more excursions). The area adjacent to the port is reportedly tourist-friendly and easy to navigate. That was all I needed to hear.

After that, I went to a "future cruise" session where the director was uncharacteristically blunt about the fleet, the destinations, and what we really should be looking for on future cruises. She was talking to an audience of mostly "Elite" class cruisers (the top tier in Princess' loyalty program). I actually learned a lot about the booking system, pricing, and upgrades. I found the director's approach refreshing in its honesty. One takeaway that struck me was this: not only room size matters in pricing, but also location. Anything mid-ship is prime real estate and anything far to the front or back will always be less pricey. Partly this is due to the midship feeling more stable in heavy seas, but mostly it's about convenience and "walkability". I was traveling midship (by luck) and had to admit, getting everywhere on the ship was a breeze since I was right by the central stairs/elevators.

I met friends at the bar for a short time, but after the sun disappeared, I switched to drinking club soda. I didn't "feel it" any more. Alcohol is something to make me relaxed and happy. Drinking it when I feel sad is a recipe for more sadness. I wanted it to be sunny and warm, ha!

It was an "uber formal" evening (Dress to Impress) and I hunkered down in my room for the night while people seemingly dressed for prom lined up to have their photos taken. Having attended my Junior and Senior Proms, I felt I earned a pass.

We lost an hour that night as the clocks moved ahead.

Day 11 (at sea)

The best part of the day was the continued warm weather. All of us were concerned that the weather on our tail was going to overtake us with cold rain (and high waves). That never came to pass. The sun even peaked out a few times. Meanwhile the news out of Hawaii showed a lot of wind and rain-related damage. What would it have been like to visit Hawaii during a storm? We only missed it by 24 hours. Suddenly the rain in Maui didn't seem all that bad.

The day was divided among walks on Deck 7, conversations at the bar, and relaxing in the room.

It was Superbowl Sunday and the ship made a grand event of it (most passengers were American). They explained they bought the permission to view the game, but not the commercials (how does that make sense?) nor the half-time show (making more sense since it is "entertainment"). I updated myself at the bar via my phone and later saw the deluge of comments on the Halftime Show (which, as I recalled while scrolling, has often been an event full of controversy).

The sunset was lovely.

Such are sea days: stuck on a floating five-star hotel.

Day 12 (at sea)

The day started sunny and warm and remained so until the late afternoon. The seas were relatively calm as well. All of us felt a continued sense of relief. Any good sea days were a bonus.

I chatted with the usual cast of characters at the bar throughout the day and walked the Promenade Deck a couple of times. I discovered the Scottish couple had traveled a LOT - but always on package tours. I understood the appeal - especially in a world where travel disruptions are becoming the norm.

I visited "Future Cruises" which is such a misnomer on any cruise ship. No advantage exists in booking a future cruise onboard. Both NCL and Princess only want passengers to put a significant deposit down on an "as yet unnamed cruise" to be used at a later date. There are some incentives to do that, but they don't appear to outweigh tying up several thousand dollars in a state of "limbo". Giving a percentage off a specific upcoming cruise while onboard would attract a lot more people.

The late afternoon turned cooler and I retreated to the interior for a coffee and some music (the Hawaiian duo). It was warm at least.

Each evening we wondered if the following day was going to turn cold like our first two sea days (which weren't enjoyable at all). We would lose another hour that night as the ship came back to Pacific Time.

I wondered how people who cruise for the sake of cruising (and don't even get off the ship in port) managed to keep things interesting....

Day 13 (at sea)

The morning started cold, and then the sun came out. It warmed up significantly, but the general temperature trend was downward. The seas were noticeably rougher. The bartender at my favorite hangout said his room was by the stabilizers (extendable fins that reduce the ship's movement) and all he could hear was the pounding of the waves all night. I could even hear the noise in my room many decks above his - his cabin must have been awful.

I managed to make circuits of the Promenade twice that day and took in some more Hawaiian music in the late afternoon.

The couple from Massachusetts I knew from the bar reminded me of my mother and her love of reminiscing. Of course, strolls down memory lane are fun, but people get stuck in feedback loops about how things "used to be" - that can't be good. I don't have to be happy with the changes I see around me, but pining away for simpler days will not make them return. The husband only talked about the past growing up in Massachusetts - it got very tiresome. I think that's why I have always preferred being around younger people - even if they are different in their life outlook, their energy is more positive and optimistic.

The late afternoon clouded over and the wind turned cold. I wondered if the following day (the last before we arrived in Ensenada, Mexico) would still be relatively mild. I already was wearing a long-sleeved shirt.

That evening I watched TV in my stateroom and listened to the sea pounding against the stabilizers. I thought about the bartender, Celso from Goa, with the room right above them.

Day 14 (at sea)

The weather continued to get colder, but the sun was out which allowed people in sheltered spots on the ship to soak in the rays. The sea breeze was flat out cold.

The only topic of conversation at the bar that day was our collective relief that it was the last sea day. I went out that evening (early) to have a couple drinks with the Scottish couple and we watched several trivia quizzes from afar. I swear the ship's crew never researches them. On a music quiz, the guy leading it said that Doris Day's Que sera sera was in Portuguese. (I think he was Brazilian).

An overwhelming number of people I met on the ship said "never again" about taking a cruise with so many sea days. I had said the same after the Transatlantic journey [see: Transatlantic cruise], but I wanted to experience taking a ship to Hawaii. All passengers agreed on two things: the trip out was "not so bad" (even if the seas were quite heavy), but the trip back just seemed laborious; and, we all were still disappointed about missing Kona. On a cruise with only four stops at the final destination, missing one was a big deal.

I returned to the room and slept immediately. I was excited to get off the ship the next day, even if in Ensenada, Mexico.

Day 15 (Ensenada, Mexico)

The day before arrival in Ensenada the weather was forecast to be cold and cloudy. No one was happy, but at least we would be on dry land. As it turned out, the morning was mostly sunny and warm - the afternoon clouded over a bit, but it was still pleasant. [see: Ensenada]

My main goal was to get a beard trim (so I looked more like my passport) and have a walkabout. I was successful on both counts. I messaged TFR in LA after my visit and told him that I was pleasantly surprised by the place (I had related my concern I wouldn't like it and he wasn't sure I would, either). I would return; of course, the city was mostly tourist-oriented shopping and restaurants, but it was clean and easy to navigate. I expected far worse.

Amish update: they were all present and waiting to do something as a group in Ensenada. I wondered if they had arranged something special?

I was back on the ship for lunch and then hung out in my room and at the bar in the afternoon. I caught up with some of my bar friends as they returned - everyone had a good day (if only to walk on land in the sun).

One of the bar regulars explained that included in our "package" was a charcuterie board at the Wine Bar. I had no idea! I immediately set off to try it. It was excellent except for one thing - the kitchen only provided three, not-so-tasty breadsticks. In fact, I didn't realize how hard it was to finish off a charcuterie board without some good bread to balance it. I complained to the bartender who was understanding, but also related that the board came from the kitchen several floors up, "premade". There was little he could do for me. It was the first time on the cruise I actually felt disappointed with the food. How could something so basic be so messed up? A woman overhearing my comments said, "Oh, if I order that I go to the buffet and bring my own bread". Seriously?

Sunset sail away from Ensenada.

In the evening I met the Scots at the bar, but we weren't feeling festive. I am guessing we were tired from walking around Ensenada. Based on a recommendation from the guy sitting next to me, I tried Johnny Walker "Double Black". It was so smokey I thought it had been rescued from a fire! Not my favorite. I am a Buffalo Trace man.

I went to bed early and had a very bad sleep. I had too many different drinks that day (not quantity, but variety). I do much better sticking with 1-2 things.

The next morning was the last sea day. I had to do laundry (I love that about Princess ships) and get prepared for arrival in San Francisco. The weather forecast was to be absolute shit for my time in the city, too.

Day 16 (at sea)

Our final sea day was brutally cold. No more shorts and t-shirts. We were definitely returning to winter. The seas were heavy as well. We remained far off the coast of California so there was nothing to see.

I woke up early and did laundry. I appreciated how easy (and cheap) it was on the ship.

After breakfast, I tried to sit at my favorite bar with a jacket and chat with a few people, but it was too cold to enjoy.

Lunch was a huge seafood fest and I ate mussels and shrimp - yum. Afterward I returned to the room and started to pack up.

In the evening, I met the Scots. We sat at their favorite interior bar and followed one trivia quiz and then watched some dreadful karaoke (some people are very confident in their singing abilities - yikes!)

Overall, it was not a great "last day of the cruise" - just as the first day was not that good. After all, a cruise to Hawaii puts people into "tropical mode" without considering the whole journey will not be in warm weather.

San Francisco was expecting cold, overcast weather for the ship's arrival.

I slept knowing I was "back to reality" again in the morning.

Disembarkation (San Francisco)

I planned on getting up to see our passage under the Golden Gate Bridge in the early morning, but I was too late. I did, however, catch the ship making its final grand turn in the Bay providing a great view of downtown. Wow!

I had breakfast (which was predictably busy) and then returned to the room for a final email check. I packed my final items and walked off the ship.

It was the easiest walk-off yet! I literally never queued for anything and the new face-recognition software by DHS is amazing. I don't know why it's not more widely used at airports. It speeds things up incredibly.

I walked to the hotel and was permitted to check in early (rarely happens). The cruise was over.

Afterthoughts:

The main reason for doing this cruise was to visit Hawaii and get a taste of each island (which are remarkably different). As I mentioned repeatedly, missing Hawaii Island was a huge disappointment for everyone on the ship. However, I did get out and about on Oahu, Kauai, and Maui.

Hawaii is definitely the most different state I have visited culturally. It reminds me that if Puerto Rico were ever to become a state, it would be jarringly different from the rest of the country (not a bad thing, but a true statement). The people of Hawaii seem desperate for visitors to understand how unique their state is. Part of me got it, part of me did not. I can't think of any other state that holds that attitude so strongly - even Texas and California. If the US is a huge melting pot with a common set of values and some vague, overarching culture - that is NOT Hawaii. All other things aside, I got tired of the Hawaiian "charm offensive" explaining the "Aloha Lifestyle". I could move to Miami beach and live a nice life on a beach, too (with less money).

The cruise was too long, period. Leaving San Francisco under glorious sunny skies was amazing. Two sea days that were freezing cold were not fun. The very rough seas were kind of an adventure, but smooth sailing is always nicer. Four days only were spent in Hawaii out of sixteen and one was cancelled. The trip back to Ensenada was very long and tedious. Ensenada was good if only to get off the ship (in the sunshine). The last sea day up the California coast was cold, windy, and depressing.

I met some nice people on the cruise and discussed a variety of topics with them. I was much more people-engaged than previous cruises. I find having led a life different than most, it is hard to share things. I either come off as "showing off" or people think I am exaggerating. Many people cruise more than me - I always learn something new. I still can't get my head around people who cruise so much they have seen every port multiple times and don't even leave the ship. That means the entire voyage for them is a series of sea days. Yuck.

Watching the Amish people onboard was just otherworldly. Since they don't fly (why not? they break every other self-imposed rule), I assumed they were booked on long Amtrak rides back East.

Although I suppose I have made my peace with it, Princess Cruises as a "high-end care facility for the aged" persists. The Scots were mortified to be on a ship with "people who could barely walk, on oxygen". They should have done the Panama Canal cruise with me and my brother last year. I appreciate Norwegian Cruise Lines age diversity, but Princess does do a few things better: namely wifi, laundromat, and a straight-forward drinks package. For a long cruise, I would always choose Princess - for a week, Norwegian is just as good.

Above all, cruising allows for travel where, for a set number of days, there is nothing to worry about. Travel, room, board, entertainment - they all follow the passengers everywhere. In days where things have become far less certain - there is an appeal.