Spain: Mercado San Miguel, Madrid

January 2020

The Market of San Miguel is a covered market located in Madrid, Spain. Originally built in 1916, it was purchased by private investors in 2003 who renovated the iron structure and reopened it in 2009. San Miguel Market is the most popular market in Madrid among tourists since it is located in the centre of Madrid, within walking distance from Plaza Mayor. The market is not a traditional grocery market but a gourmet tapas market, with over 30 different vendors selling a wide variety of freshly prepared tapas, hams, olives, baked goods and other foods. Beer, wine and champagne are also available.

(Wikipedia)

On that first visit to Madrid, I think AFVdR regretted introducing me to Mercado San Miguel. For me, it was a Spanish Food Disneyland - I felt like I could have stayed (and eaten tapas) for hours. For him, it was overpriced and too touristy. He, of course, was right. The same tapas could be found elsewhere at half the price, but the variety on display in that old Victorian market could not be beat! We went twice on that first visit (and I had to beg to go the second time).

Every time I passed through Madrid after that (if I had time), I made sure to have a late afternoon snack at that market. I particularly remember the visit in January when I was returning from a trip south to Andalusia with a one-night stay in Madrid. I was certain the market would be empty in January. In fact, it was bustling - but more with locals than with tourists. It appeared that even Madrileños love the market when it isn't flooded with visitors.

The US has food courts and other eating places that have attempted to capture the essence of San Miguel, but none have made anything similar. In fact, Spain has several places similar to Mercado San Miguel sprinkled across the country - all successful. The atmosphere is one of very small vendors who are in a competition to outdo each other either with wines from a specific region or tapas bites that are "creative". I could never get bored in such a place.

One of my favorite places in Spain (or anywhere in my European travels), the Mercado San Miguel is the ultimate place to have an aperitivo in Madrid (for me). Yes, it IS touristy - but I am a tourist.