December 2003
We had been exploring Colombo and it was our last night there before our big tour of Sri Lanka began. South of the old city center there was a large open space facing the sea, Galle Face Green. At the end of that open space was the venerable Galle Face Hotel. We made our way there to have a look around.
The Galle Face Hotel, founded in 1864, is one of the oldest hotels east of Suez. It is located on Galle Road, Colombo.
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The hotel was originally built by four British entrepreneurs in 1864. Its name derives from the stretch of lawn which it faces, known as the Galle Face Green. It began as a Dutch villa called Galle Face House. Land for the hotel's expansion was purchased between 1870 and 1894. In 1894, architect Edward Skinner completed the design of the hotel's current south wing, and the property has remained largely unchanged until the present day, though with many extensive restorations
(Wikipedia)
The Galle Face Hotel was Colombo's own Raffles Hotel (Singapore) - a colonial hotel with a lot of character and a long history. We explored the common areas and, as sunset was coming, we asked where we could have a drink. The bar was uninspiring - we wanted to be outside overlooking the sea. We were led to a restaurant on one of the covered back porches. The staff were surprised we didn't want anything to eat. We had eaten a big lunch and just wanted cocktails to sip as we watched the sun dip into the Indian Ocean. As the only people seated, it appeared to be an off hour for the restaurant. The sun slowly set and the sky turned a multitude of colors. We sat transfixed. My gin and tonic at the Galle Face Hotel at sunset ended up being one of the best sunset drinks of my life. An old colonial hotel, a table overlooking the sea, my favorite drink, and a colorful sunset - life was good. It was a rare travel memory that was actually very good (and I appreciated) in the moment.
Meanwhile, a few years later in Singapore, GW, our friend and housekeeper always teased me when I felt nostalgic about the Galle Face Hotel.
"It's not the best old hotel in Colombo. That would be Mt Lavinia," he laughed. I looked into it and indeed a hotel had been made out of the old governors residence south of the city. Even if not purpose built as a hotel, it appeared to be an even more splendid relic from that era. Unfortunately, we had never even heard of it on our visit.
I wouldn't mind returning to Sri Lanka for a comparison drink at Mt Lavinia. There is no statute of limitations to searching for the best in life (as long as expectations remain managed).
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