Kyushu: Amakusa Islands

The crypto-Christian bug had bitten me. The whole concept of "going underground in plain sight" with something was mind-boggling to me. One of hiding places for Christians during their period of persecution was among the Amakusa islands off the coast of Kumamoto. I went to seek out some of those remains on a return visit to Kyushu near the end of my time in Japan.

In 1569 the small fishing village of Sakitsu was visited by Portuguese missionary Luis de Almeida. In 1596 when Toyotomi Hideyoshi banned Christianity in Japan much of the local population had already been converted to the Catholic Church. Despite the ban many residents of Sakitsu continued practicing their faith in secret. During the sixteenth century many of Sakitsu's residence started using everyday household items for Christian worship instead of Christian devotional objects during the 16th century Sakitsu became the center of Hidden Christians in Amakusa. The first church in Sakitsu opened in 1888 but the church was renovated and moved to its current location in 1934.

(Wikipedia)

The only way out to the village was by bus and ferry from Shimabara Station (it was quite the long ride - nearly three hours). However.... inasmuch as everything seemed to be superlative for me in Kyushu, I found yet another place to add to my list. The crypto-Christians of Sakitsu, their church, and their history were moderately interesting, but the Amakusa Islands where they lived were the main attraction for me. The setting was jaw-droppingly beautiful. The climate is classified as "humid, subtropical", so spring was very nearly the perfect time to visit. The road hugged the coast and passed through village after village along the sea. Most of the seacoast of Japan (the undeveloped parts) was lovely, but Amakusa was on a whole other level. It was the only time I visited a place in Japan and regretted my placement in Sendai (which I had come to love). I knew Amakusa was remote, but it was so incredibly beautiful.

I always wanted to return but never managed it.

Two religions....

The Amakusa Islands ended up being a highlight of my stay in Japan even if I found it at the very end.