Kyushu: Amakusa Islands

The crypto-Christian bug had bitten me. The whole concept of "going underground in plain sight" with something was mind-boggling to me. One of hiding places for Christians during their period of persecution was in the Amakusa islands off the coast of Kumamoto.

On my final journey in Japan before leaving, I wanted to return to Nagasaki. On the first journey to Kyushu, I noted that the offshore islands of Kumamoto Prefecture looked beautiful. I made it a point to visit the Amakusa Islands for both their history and beauty.

In 1569 the small fishing village of Sakitsu was visited by Portuguese missionary Luis de Almeida. In 1596 when Toyotomi Hideyoshi banned Christianity in Japan much of the local population had already been converted to the Catholic Church. Despite the ban many residents of Sakitsu continued practicing their faith in secret. During the sixteenth century many of Sakitsu's residence started using everyday household items for Christian worship instead of Christian devotional objects during the 16th century Sakitsu became the center of Hidden Christians in Amakusa. The first church in Sakitsu opened in 1888 but the church was renovated and moved to its current location in 1934.

(Wikipedia)

The only way out to the village was a long ride by bus and ferry from Nagasaki. I took a local bus up and over the mountains that enclose Nagasaki Bay to a small fishing port, Mogi on the other side. There I rode the ferry to Tomioka on the Amakusa Islands. Then I boarded a bus for Sakitsu and its famous church. The crypto-Christians of Sakitsu, their church, and their history were moderately interesting, but the Amakusa Islands where they lived were the main attraction. The setting is jaw-droppingly beautiful. The climate is classified as "humid, subtropical", so spring was very nearly the perfect time to visit. The road hugs the coast and passes through village after village along the sea. Most of the seacoast of Japan (the undeveloped parts) is lovely, but Amakusa is on a whole other level. It was the only time I visited a place in Japan and regretted my placement in Sendai (which I had come to love). I knew Amakusa was remote, but it was so incredibly beautiful. What would it have been like to live there?

Two religions....

The Amakusa Islands ended up being a highlight of my stay in Japan even if I found it at the very end.