Round the World I: Berlin to Athens (3)

**Note: all headings in italic and underlined indicate a travel journal entry which indicate the date written and location. At times they do not match the timeline exactly. Italicized passages are the notes I wrote on the journey.

[Continued from Round the World I: Beijing to Berlin (2)]

June 1987

BERLIN TO PRAGUE (train)

Czechoslovakian visa sorted, I was on the train south toward Prague. I felt very disappointed on two counts - I had wanted to visit Dresden, but as mentioned, the former DDR was the most restrictive country for travel in the Warsaw Pact. According to Thomas Cook (British Travel Agency), the ride from Berlin to Prague through the Elbe River valley was one of the most scenic in Europe. The first part to Dresden is mostly flat through farmland. - definitely not "scenic".

Dresden in those days was mostly a city in ruin post World War II. I saw many fire-blackened ruins from the train along the Elbe. It looked like it had some lovely buildings at one time: the scene was depressing. From there the train followed the Elbe south and the scenery quickly improved. The East German border guards boarded the train in Dresden and slowly stamped us out of the DDR before the official border at Bad Schandau.

From Bad Schandau the "good" scenery begins, but I found it only "pleasant". My expectations were far too high. Many boats were plying the river as the Elbe is a major transport artery for barges in that part of Europe. For a short stretch the river is the border between the two countries - the German side was much more developed. The actual border between the two countries was remarkably "soft". Every border I had crossed to that point had been with guard towers and barbed-wire fences. The border between the DDR and Czechoslovakia was more like the one between the US and Canada. The scenery remained pleasant until Usti Nad Laben where, in spite of its imposing fortress on the hill, everything turned very industrial. At the official Czech border in Děčín I got off the train and changed money (knowing I needed cash on arrival - I just took a guess I would find a place to do it). I had koruna in my pocket, ready for Prague - a city I always wanted to visit.

CZECHOSLOVAKIA

Prague

I arrived and was on my own to find a place. I liked Czechoslovakia already - like Poland, once issued a tourist visa, I was free to stay where I wished. I went to two agencies that found rooms for travelers. The first was a bust and, after some difficulty, the second found something in a neighborhood close to the old city center. The room was clean, but very depressing - as was the whole street and neighborhood. My first impressions of Prague were similar to Kiev, gray and not a lot to see. That certainly was wrong! Later that first sunset was amazing with the domes and spires of the old city in silhouette. I was too tired from travel to enjoy it - I slept.

In the morning I found a young woman at the front desk who spoke French. I felt great relief not relying on German I for communication. She explained a lot about the city and travel in Prague. I went to Cedok (state travel agency) and bought an onward ticket to Bratislava. As usual, communication was an issue, but I managed. A guy working there wanted to change money on the black market and I declined. I was afraid of falling to a scam of doing something illegal with a government employee. Likely I was needlessly worried, but I was not going to take the risk. The guy was very friendly with excellent English.

I had two full days to explore the city.

Day 1

Karlov Most

The first day it rained. In spite of my overall appreciation of what I saw, I faced a lot of frustration and disappointment. Many places were under renovation and scaffolding. However, it was not all bad. As I wandered the old city and saw its medieval buildings, my jaw dropped. Krakow had been beautiful, but it was small. Prague was a major city - like a version of Krakow repeated again, again, and again. Krakow had set the bar for what to expect in an "old" European city and Prague then blew that bar away simply because of size. I still appreciated Krakow not doubt, but Prague was a European capital with many intact, old neighborhoods. Before anyone ever heard of the city (other than in the news), I was visiting a European capital that would later become a travel gem. Even if the old town square was literally all under renovation, I saw its potential.

As I dodged the rain showers I passed by palaces, mansions, towers, and squares. Forts guarded the hilltops and the city's castle dominated everything. Other cities had nicely preserved sections, but the entirety of Prague's downtown was a museum. Even though pollution had blackened many of its buildings, it was still an amazing.. The bonus of visiting at that time was - few tourists. The dark side to that was - since few people visited Prague, the city was broke. All those old buildings (including the beautiful Charles Bridge) were covered in soot from the industrial age and the old buildings were in disrepair (hence the scaffolding everywhere). People in Prague didn't look happy in those days - it was a dreary place - but maintained its dignity.

Jewish Cemetery

No matter where I turned in Prague I found wonderous places. In a nod to my travel mate Jerry in Krakow I found the old Jewish quarter and the city's Jewish museum. Ironically, the museum collection mostly came from the Nazis. They had purposely collected it to show "Jewish Decadence". Even more interesting to me was the graveyard where the tombs were literally stacked on top of each other. The gloomy day added to the sadness of the place. I wondered how they buried anyone without exhuming someone else? In the museum was a collection of items from concentration camp victims: letters, poems, and photos. The children's section was extremely moving, but having just visited Auschwitz, I could not process much more on that topic. I wondered what Jerry would have thought...

Wandering took me to the river where I got my first clear view of the castle hill. I thought it must be one of the best in all of Europe (even if I had only seen a fraction of the continent). A castle, a cathedral, and an old neighborhood stand on a hill overlooking the Vltava River, spanned by old bridges. Chief among them is the Karlov Most, lined with statuary of former Czech kings and queens holding staffs with crucifixes. Even covered in soot, the bridge was the most stately I had ever seen. On either end of the bridge, two medieval entry towers guarded different parts of the city.

I climbed the castle hill passing St Nicholas church - I started to glaze over at the number of beautiful churches in the city. I did note that most of them lacked the amazing stained glass for which so many other churches in Europe were famous. Was it simply age? Prague had not been in a significant conflict in centuries. I arrived to a "closed on Monday" castle. On that trip it seemed not only was everything I wanted to see under scaffolding, but every day was Monday. I drowned my sorrows in an excellent lunch under the castle walls. Food in Prague was cheap, abundant, and delicious!

Tired of rain and frustration I turned my energies elsewhere. I needed a visa for Hungary, so I located the embassy. With that visa in hand, from Bratislava I could travel either to Budapest or Vienna (and then Hungary). My preference was to stay in the Eastern Bloc to save money, but the very early morning departure of the river boat to Budapest would make that difficult without spending more time in Bratislava (and wasting an entire day of my visa for Czechoslovakia with an early morning departure). Luckily, the people at the Hungarian Embassy were great (I got the visa on the spot). Back at Cedok, after much discussion, they told me to get up-to-date information on the boats in Bratislava: there might be additional departures in the summer. At least I had options.

Back to touristing, I rode the subway to Vsryhad, the oldest part of the city with some castle ruins. The Prague subway was not beautiful (like Moscow), but it was fast and efficient. It felt superior to any I had used in the US. As a bonus, the view from the station over the city was spectacular. Prague Castle truly dominates the city like some fairytale scene. As I explored the old fortress with its lovely views I wondered why Prague remained off the world's tourist radar.

I returned to the hotel for a break and then went out to eat. The food was amazing. If I elected to eat at a stand up bar, I could order a lot of food for less than $1. I thought it might be even cheaper than Poland, but it was becoming hard to keep all the exchange rates straight in my head. Suffice to say - the food was good and cheap. The best thing about eating in Prague though was beer. It was cheap and abundant. In Poland, beer felt like a luxury. In Czechoslovakia a pint of outstanding pilsner (from Plzen!) could be had for 25 cents. With prices like that, I could have stayed in Prague for a long time. Not to mention the ice cream and cakes were delicious, too. Perhaps the good (and reasonable) food offset the price of the room (which I found very high for a socialist country).

I ended up sleeping early. It had been a long day with a lot of walking.

Day 2

Powder Tower

Wenceslas Square

St. Vitus Cathedral

Castle Hill

Wallenstein Garden

The sun came out for at least one of my days in Prague. I walked along the river and then climbed the castle hill again. I still could not enter the cathedral, but I did tour the Royal Palace. The castle hill neighborhood is lovely for strolling. I took lunch next to the restaurant I tried the previous day - the food was predictably good and cheap. I loved Prague for food. I felt sensory overload setting in, so I sat down in a park after lunch and caught up with the travel journal. I was leaving for Bratislava that evening on a third class sleeper. I had some anxiety. How was it going to be?

As I had visited Cedok frequently, the guy with good English and I became friendly. I invited him for a beer after his work (I had a lot of time). The experience was enlightening (and a little strange). He claimed he was of the former aristocracy and chafed at the lack of personal freedom as well as the poor economy. His dream was to finish med school and go to Canada where a large Czech community already existed. He had relatives in the West (Austria and Germany) and had even spent a month in England on an exchange. He only saw the glamor of the West (materialism) and glossed over many of the bad points. I compared Czechoslovakia with China and said it was far better, but he had no time for such a comparison saying they were all "yellow" people anyway. Racism aside, our conversation was a good insight into what it was like living in Prague in those days. Then I noted he kept referring to Jews. I wasn't sure if he was anti-Semitic or what was going on since he was not speaking disparagingly. I finally asked if HE was Jewish and he looked around nervously and told me his grandmother was. It was so odd. He disparaged the government quite openly in the restaurant, but being partially Jewish? That was a deep dark secret. In the end, I didn't like him too much - but the encounter was a great experience.

I ran into fellow travelers, one of whom was studying in Wrocław, Poland. They were great to talk to and we shared information over some beer. Unfortunately, I had a train to catch. I literally ran to the hotel to get my bag and made it to the train only 10 minutes before departure.

Upon arrival in the USA, I sung the praises of Prague and said, "if they ever cleaned that place up and made it easy to visit, mark my words, it would be mobbed". Apparently, Matt does occasionally predict the future. I did return to Prague decades later in order to see more of the Czech Republic and spent several days there. I was happy to see its great fortune in being "discovered". The wash of tourist and EU cash made it possible to clean up its lovely old buildings. I will admit a part of me missed being a solo tourist in that great old city, before all the crowds. On that first visit, I had no stand out experiences, just an overall sense of incredulity that an an entire city could be that old (and the tourist masses had overlooked it).

Notes:

East Berlin, Germany to Prague, Czechoslovakia (train)

I was on the train and on my way to Prague - a city I've always wanted to visit.

June 9 (Cafe, Prague, Czechoslovakia)

The train ride to Dresden was rural - glimpses of the Germany I had only seen in photos. Dresden from the train: it used to be quite a place - fire-blackened ruins along the Elbe and a few hilltop mansions or turrets were the only things visible. It looks like it used to have some beautiful buildings. The customs inspection started in Dresden surprisingly (and continued all the way to Bad Schandau on the border). The train snakes along the narrow river valley all the way into Czechoslovakia. Although the river is narrow, it appears it is deep enough for large, flat-bottomed boats to make their way up and down. The southern Elbe on the German side is super touristy (for East Germany), but still pleasant. The route is classified as a "scenic" rail journey, but I found it only pleasant. I was very surprised at the lack of a hard border between East Germany and Czechoslovakia. I kept waiting for a "no man's land" that I had seen at other borders - nothing. It felt more like traveling between the US and Canada. Anyway, the scenery was nice and continued to be until Usti nad Laben, Czechoslovakia. That town was graced with a few hilltop fortresses and churches and lots of factories! In Děčín on the border I had changed money (no one informed me that I could, so luckily I went outside to check). I was ready for Prague.

Prague, Czechoslovakia

Arrival in Prague took me to two places that said "no" for rooms, but at the second they were friendlier and eventually found me something. I checked in and ate a little bit and slept. The sunset that evening was spectacular over the domes and spires of the old city. Too bad I was too tired to appreciate it more.

I awoke early to find the girl at the front desk spoke French! Weeeee..... I was so happy to find someone who spoke something other than German. She very kindly explained many things to me. First off, I went to Cedok (state travel agency) to buy train tickets to Bratislava. It took some time to make myself understood, but I did. I met a nice young guy there who wanted to exchange money on the black market. I politely declined. I couldn't imagine meeting someone in the state travel agency and trusting them! At least he was very friendly and his English was excellent. From that moment I had two full days to see Prague.

Unfortunately, it rained all of Day 1. Prague held a lot of disappointments. The Old City (Stare Mesto) was mostly under renovation, especially its centerpiece, the old town square. (to me all of Prague was old!) The castle on the hill and the cathedral were also both closed for renovation. It felt like there was scaffolding to ruin any good photo all across the city. However, it is much better to speak of the superlatives of the city. Prague is a city like none other I have seen in Europe. It is the quintessential medieval city filled with old forts, castles, churches - everything! Until that point, the places I visited had nice neighborhoods, Prague in its entirety is like a museum! The scale of it is mind-boggling. There is too much pollution that has blackened its buildings and too many cars, but was it touristy? No. There were many tourists, but it never felt given over to tourism. It retained a stately dignity.

I was enthralled by the city. Even if the old town square was one major construction zone, it has the potential to be a fantastic destination. My path meandered to the old Jewish quarter and I found the city's Jewish Museum. Ironically, much of what is on display there was amassed by the Nazis as a display of the decadence of Jewry! The museum had some old religious artifacts, but far more interesting was the old cemetery where the graves were literally stacked on each other. The gloomy weather gave the place a somber atmosphere. Another interesting part of the museum was the collection of items from concentration camp victims: letters, poems, and photos. The children's section photos were moving, but with Auschwitz fresh in my mind I still felt overwhelmed on the topic. I met two young American women there who were very snobbish - oh well.

I wandered down to the river and saw the castle on the hilltop - it is one of the best views to be had in Europe: a castle, a church, and an ancient neighborhood on a hill overlooking a majestic river, the Vltava (with many old bridges spanning it). I walked to Karlov Most Bridge - the oldest, famous for its statuary. On either end is a tower and many more old buildings. The statues on the bridge though blackened by time are lovely. They held many crucifixes and represented old kings (and queens). The bridge is so grand and stately. The towers on both ends are both very old. The buildings on the castle side are picturesque! I stopped in a cafe for a coke and then continued up past the St Nikolas Cathedral (there are so many ornate cathedrals in Prague, I was left glazed over after a time). I noted that the churches lacked the amount of stained glass that is in abundance in most other European churches. When I arrived at the Castle, it was closed because it was "closed on Mondays" (of course). I ended up eating lunch under the castle in a nice restaurant.

Even if I was in love with Prague, I was ready to throw in the towel between the rain and all the scaffolding, so I took a break from sightseeing. I went to the Hungarian Embassy and got my visa. That will give me the option of travel to either Budapest or Vienna from Bratislava. After many inquiries it seems it will be easier to travel to Vienna if I want to spend a day in Bratislava, but I actually prefer to go onto Budapest. I really have to save money. After lots of discussions with the people in Cedok, they advised me to get the most up to date information in Bratislava. Unfortunately, I can't take the boat to Budapest because it leaves at 6am and I arrive at 6:30am. That situation will figure itself out later. The people at the Hungarian Embassy were great and I got my visa quickly.

I took the subway to Vsryhad, the oldest portion of the fortified city to see some ruins, a church, and an old cemetery. The place was a little remote but gave sweeping views over the city and river. The castle dominates everything. The view from the subway station is great! As far as the subway goes, it is not nearly as beautiful as the one in Moscow but it is very fast, clean, and efficient - much better than any I have used in the US. I am still shocked that Prague has not gotten more positive press.

I finally came back to my hotel for a short break. I went out to eat and ended up sleeping early. The food has been very good and very cheap. The "stand up" cafeterias are inexpensive - I can eat a lot for less than $1. It feels even cheaper than Poland, but I might be wrong. It is hard to keep all the exchange rates straight in my head. One thing that is better in Prague is beer. In Poland, beer was hard to come by and in Prague, it is 25 cents for a pint, available everywhere! It is excellent pilsner from Plzen! Wow. I could get into staying in Prague for awhile. Additionally, the soft ice cream and the cakes are amazingly delicious. I have been eating very well even if I think my room is expensive (for a socialist country).

Day 2 started out sunny. The morning was occupied with getting more travel information. After that, I went back to the castle by way of a lovely island park in the river, a few old churches, and a beautiful garden. The cathedral was still closed for renovation - shit. I did visit the old Royal Palace - it looks like a place that could have hosted some wild parties. Again, the surrounding streets were beautiful to walk. I had lunch at a restaurant next to the one of the previous day. The food was good and cheap. By that point, I was in sensory overload, so I sat down in a park near the castle and caught up with the journal. Later I walked back across Karlov Most - not without regret. Will I ever return to Prague?

Tonight I take a 3rd class sleeper to Bratislava. Will I even sleep?

June 10 (bank of the Danube, Bratislava, Czechoslovakia)

I invited the Cedok Information guy out for a beer and it turned into a completely twilight zone experience. He told me his goal was to finish med school and go live in Canada in the bosom of the large Czech community there. He hates the system and is apparently a member of the old aristocracy with money. He complained of the lack of freedom and material things. He has relatives in Austria and West Germany and he even lived in England for one month, but he only sees the glamor of the West, none of the bad points. I told him Czechoslovakia was so much better than China (for example), but he said they were all "yellow" anyway - what a racist. In the end, he was a little strange, but it was a good chance to speak to a local with good English. The conversation was very good until after hearing him make endless comments about Jews (including - "you know this is a Jewish pub"). I finally asked him, "Are you Jewish?" He replied his grandmother was and would not comment further. For a person who talked so openly about his government in a public place, he acted very "top secret" about his religion. Finally, I can't say I liked him, but it was a very good experience.

Just after we parted I ran into some Canadian and American guys traveling together. One of the guys was a student in Wroclaw, Poland. We went out for a few beers and talked a lot - very nice guys. I excused myself early and raced back to the hotel to collect my bag and get to the station (10 minutes before!).

Bratislava

I arrived in Bratislava after sharing a 6-person compartment with one other guy. Third class ended up not being so bad - we both slept comfortably. I woke to the flat landscape near the city. After exiting the station, I rode a tram directly to the riverboat ticket agent (for Budapest) as indicated on the map. As it was early, I had breakfast while I waited for it to open. When it did, the woman working there spoke no English and said "we are closed". With the help of a passerby who spoke German I found another travel agency that was open and they told me, "No tickets were available until tomorrow". As my visa ended that day, I had no other choice. I was going to Vienna. No problem - I would just rearrange my schedule. As a bonus, the boat was extremely cheap!

Old City Hall, Bratislava

Opera House, Bratislava

Castle, Bratislava

Boats to Vienna, Danube River, Bratislava

I took to Bratislava for some reason. Formerly known as Pressburg, it is a big city and was not yet well-known. Without having suffered much wartime devastation, the little old town was intact - just not in a good state of repair. The city is dominated by its old castle on the hill - imposing and visible from everywhere. Other than pleasant wanderings in the city, my two strongest memories were the castle museum and the immigration for the boat up the Danube to Vienna. The city made for a pleasant and manageable place to wait for the boat to Vienna.

The castle sits on a hill overlooking town and the river. It was a long, hard slog to the top, giving spectacular views. The museum in the castle gave a great history of Bratislava. The display that hit me hardest was, surprisingly, the coins of the realm. There was one simple table displaying all the coins that had been legal tender in Bratislava from the Romans onward. The number of kings, countries, and empires that had occupied Bratislava was staggering. I thought the display was brilliant.

The city's main attraction is actually the river. I was both impressed and disappointed with the mighty Danube. As I walked along the river's edge in town, no rocks or rapids were visible, yet I could hear the "roar" of the water. Wow. The amount of traffic on the river impressed me, too. However - the Danube is not wide at that point. I expected it to be much larger.

Escape from Bratislava

After having crossed the Iron Curtain several times by that point, I assumed I was an expert. Immigration quayside on the Danube in Bratislava cured me of that thought instantly. I bought my ticket in plenty of time to catch the boat upstream to Vienna. When it came time to board, suddenly the immigration officials decided to scrutinize my passport (shocking because in none of the Eastern Bloc countries to that point was my passport even given a second look). I became nervous about missing the boat. I was even more concerned about getting stuck in Czechoslovakia. Whatever the issue was, they decided to let me go at the last possible moment and I ran up the dock and jumped on the boat just as it was pushing off. I often wondered afterward if the officials were bored and just being assholes to watch me sweat and panic about getting on the boat.

Note: 30+ years later I had the same panicked "run up the dock and jump on the boat" in Bratislava again. Just for a tour, not to go to Vienna - but after I got on the boat, I really did have a good laugh at the irony.

I was on the Danube cruising toward Vienna. Soon I would be back in the West. I expected the onward journey to Hungary and Yugoslavia to be different than the other Socialist countries I had just traversed. However, first I was going to see Austria - the first real "western" country of the trip.

Notes:

Prague to Bratislava, Czechoslovakia (train)

The 3rd class sleeper has 6 bunks, but there were only two of us. We slept nearly the entire journey. The train was comfortable. I woke in the morning to the flat countryside near Bratislava. Soon we pulled into the station.

Bratislava, Czechoslovakia

I located what I thought was the correct travel agency on the map and took a tram there. I ate breakfast and then asked a woman in the office for help. She said it was closed and she spoke no English. Luckily, a German-speaker came by and helped me find another office which told me "no tickets until tomorrow"! Then and there I decided to go to Vienna instead of Budapest. I didn't want to take the train to Budapest and Vienna was only about an hour away by boat (and just $15). The plan allows me to arrive in Vienna at a decent time and start my Austria sojourn.

Everyone in Bratislava has been very friendly and I got a tourist map to help find my way around the sites. Bratislava's old town is small and can be seen in a day (or a morning if you skip the museums). The castle and its museum are good and the museum provides a good history of the place from prehistoric times to the present - very informative! At least a dozen flags have flown over Bratislava. The castle is austere, but it makes for a change from the usually opulent ones The old town is mostly in a sad state of repair, but it is still quaint. Some churches are nice. Bratislava is really a nice place to wait for the boat to Vienna. Of course, the Danube (Dunaj there) flows by the city with its fast, muddy waters. It is heavily traveled and surprisingly narrow. I could hear the river moving in a place that is straight without rocks. Wow! I was disappointed it wasn't wider as one of Europe's premier rivers.

Soon I will be back in the West again. I think Hungary and Yugoslavia will be much different than what I have seen thus far among the "socialist" countries.

AUSTRIA

June 1987

Vienna

The boat ride to Vienna was short, just over an hour. The first half hour was especially beautiful with villages and churches on both sides of the river. The Morava River defined another "hard" border between Czechoslovakia and Austria. I didn't expect that as the boat passed by scary-looking fences and guard towers.

Few tourists (as opposed to locals) arrived in Vienna by boat. With great expectations, I disembarked the ferry and tried to find a money changer. Except for immigration, there was nothing after leaving the boat to aid "international arrivals" (coming daily). No money changer meant no Austrian schillings. No schillings meant no transportation to the part of town with all the cheap lodging and hostels. I found the end of the metro line nearby and, Vienna metro being on the "honor system", I got on the train and rode a few nervous stops without a ticket to Südbahnhof. I tried to let people at the station moneychanger know what had happened and they said, "That is the Czech's problem". Later, when I told an Austrian at the hostel what I had done, he said the fine for no ticket travel would have been exorbitant. I was lucky. Sadly, public transport in Vienna was even more costly than Berlin!

I found a place to stay, talked to fellow travelers, and fell into a deep sleep. I was back in the West without much of a plan (except exiting to Hungary at a later point).

Day One

I awoke in Imperial Vienna, another new experience. Vienna was definitely in the West, had been rebuilt since the war. It was a huge tourist magnet. The city was my first major "Western" European city. I couldn't count Berlin since it was divided (and overall a very strange city). The great cities of the East I visited (like Prague and Moscow) were beautiful, yet impoverished. Vienna, home of the Hapsburgs, was squeaky clean, old, maintained, and gorgeous. Vienna for me was what Europe was all about. I wandered the city both alone and with travel friends. We drank Gösser beer and ate cheap döner kebab. Vienna was not only beautiful, it was punishingly expensive. I had to make the most of my time there - I couldn't afford a long stay.

St Stefans Cathedral

Karlskirche

State Opera House

The youth hostel I finally settled into was out of the center (and noted as "bad" in the guide book), but given there was no other choice - I was happy to have a bed. I woke early to see as much of the city as I could. After taking a tram to the river's edge, I walked along it and into the old city center. First on the list was Stefansdom, the city's cathedral. My first impressions were not stellar as it is hemmed in by surrounding buildings. Most cathedrals have a bit of space - a park or graveyard, St Stefan does not. Its multi-color, tiled roof impressed me. I wondered why other churches didn't do the same as it gives a softer appearance than monolithic gray or black. The interior was beautiful but holds literally no original stained glass due to World War II bombing . That was the moment I learned Vienna was bombed! What a shame.

I continued on to the lovely Stadtpark where I became an immediate fan of Vienna's ultra-clean and manicured parks. The city made sure its public spaces looked Disneyland perfect. Wow! After that, a main street led me past row after row of official, old buildings.  Walking the "inner ring" of Vienna amazed me again and again as I saw the former wealth and power represented. I learned about the Austro-Hungarian Empire in European Civilization at Georgetown, but I didn't fathom how important it had been sitting in a classroom. In person, wow! I arrived at Karlsplatz and the lovely Karlskirche. Once again, the park in front of the church looked perfect. Nearby is the famous opera house. The tours were sold out (into the following week). It was June, too, so the place was dark and the orchestra on tour. I met a Japanese guy there and we continued touring Vienna together.

Rathaus

.

Parliament

We stopped at the over-the-top Art Museum where I discovered yet another excellent Egyptian collection. I was also impressed with the Dutch Renaissance paintings, the largest display I had seen to date. Even though the building was gorgeous, I still preferred what I had seen in Berlin. We passed by the old city hall (Rathaus) and the Austrian Parliament. Increasingly I thought Vienna was what Prague could have been had it fallen on the "other" side of the Iron Curtain and benefitted from capitalistic flows of cash. I loved Prague's atmosphere and concentration of old buildings, but for culture and opulence, Vienna was unmatchable. Posters for concerts featuring famous conductors were splashed all over the city along with monuments to famous composers. "Mozart slept here" plaques were ubiquitous. I was astounded. Vienna had more culture per city block than any place I had ever visited. What would it have been like "in season" with all of the music venues going full tilt? I wouldn't have had enough money anyway. I decided that when I was older I would return to avail myself of all that culture. (I ended up doing that!)

Belvedere Palace

Belvedere Palace

After a cheap lunch of bread and cheese, we continued our tour at Belvedere Palace. My Japanese friend was very interested in its modern art collection while I was happy to see the palace and grounds. We both came away satisfied. I loved the interior, and the gardens were beautiful (and huge) providing good views over the city.

We were near the Südbahnhof and I purchased an "Austria Ticket" (rail pass). I had finally decided to tour Austria for a week by train before going to Hungary. We ate another cheap meal in a park near the station and then my new friend helped me write postcards to my friends back in Japan. I felt happy (and grateful) that I found someone to help me make contact with people with whom I had spent the last three years. The guy was staying at the hostel, too, by luck (in a different room), so we returned. I had a terrible night - one guy in the room kept jumping out of bed and shouting (in his sleep). It was unnerving and very strange.

Day Two

I had to do laundry (which I hate) and found a laundromat: an expensive place where one handed the bag of cloths to others who then washed them in a typical laundromat-type machine (using coins). It felt like a scam (or that Austrians were too dumb to use a laundromat? doubtful). I paid for one more night at the hostel. I was ready to see a place I had dreamed about - Schönbrunn.

Schönbrunn Palace

I had heard about the Habsburg Summer Palace in high school. It was legendary in my mind as a place where people waltzed to Strauss in the past. I took the subway there and bought an "out of budget" entry ticket. I found the exterior deflating after Belvedere, but the interior was over the top. I joined an English tour which ended up being an international group (tours were in German or English mostly). That palace interior was my first ever of that type: a building made to impress. I walked around slack-jawed. The attached gardens are vast and were too big for me to explore with limited time. With that big check completed for Vienna, I returned to town for more travel planning.

Back at the Südbahnhof I got information on both trains to Hungary and to my next destination, Villach. I bought more film, too (an unanticipated expense having loaded up cheaply in Hong Kong). I heard the cathedral tower could be climbed and went to see, but the price put me off (especially after splurging on Schönbrunn). My feet were tired, but there remained one big attraction: the main palace, the Hofburg. I had seen the summer palace and the "special occasion" palace (Belvedere), but not yet the city residence. I walked around the complex and gardens in awe. It was my first "palace of an empire". Once again, I could not afford the interior ticket - I did that later in life. It didn't matter, the exterior and gardens alone were impressive. Finally, I visited the Votivkirche, a lovely gothic-inspired church along the Ring Road. It was complete (St Stefan had one unfinished tower) with loads of beautiful stained glass. For me, it was the most beautiful church I had encountered in the city.

Hofburg

Some bad memories of those days were having street kids come up and "hiss" at me to give them money. They almost seemed feral. Strangely, they were very well-dressed for "beggars". It left a bad taste in my mouth. In addition,  I got into a heated political debate on the street with a Turkish vendor who was very anti-American. I was traveling and not in the mood for serious discussion - he goaded me into it. I walked away wondering why an immigrant would have such volatile views toward everyone and everything. Wasn't his life better in Austria? Alas, I was young and did not understand the world. To add to all of that, during my late day meal, I heard some Austrians openly disparaging the number of tourists in their city. I assumed they thought I couldn't understand, but I got the gist of their conversation.

I had already fallen into my typical Austrian lunch/dinner: bread, cheese, and deli meat from a grocery store (with a beer). It was cheap and filling. If I was going to stay in the country for a week - I couldn't afford much more. I missed Poland and Czechoslovakia!

That second day in Vienna, in spite of seeing wonderful places, had been a downer. I had too many "people negative" experiences. That evening, some guys came back to the room late and woke everyone. The screaming guy woke up again, too. Ugh - I was ready to move on.

Important decisions

I had made one major decision and it was definitive. Instead of striking across Austria and points further west with my remaining money, I would continue in the Eastern Bloc since I knew it was not difficult. I already had the Hungarian visa after all. Part of me, longed to travel in the Europe my friends talked about (Germany, Switzerland France), yet part of me wanted to explore Hungary and Yugoslavia. In the end, I compromised, I bought an Austrian rail card (Rabbit Card - what a name) to visit cities well-known to all and then head back East. It turned out to be a good, but expensive plan. I activated my rail pass and set off for Villach.

Notes:

Bratislava, Czechoslovakia - Vienna, Austria (boat)

June 12 (Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna)

Leaving Czechoslovakia turned out to be weird - the immigration and customs officers waited until the last minute for their check and then only checked me! I had to make a mad dash to board the boat. Anyway, it was a relief to be onboard. The first 30 minutes or so was lovely, passing by small towns and a few old castles and churches on the hills. The boat was comfortable and fast. The Austro-Czech border was another East/West Berlin kind of divide - I was surprised.

Vienna, Austria

My first impressions of Vienna were tainted by having no place to change money at the boat dock. I had to ride the subway "illegally" to the Südbahnhof where I informed people of the situation. They told me that was the Czech's problem! Then all of the youth hostels except the one recommended against in the guide book were full. The hostel ended up being OK; it's just a little far out of the center. Unfortunately, public transport in Vienna is more expensive than Berlin! I checked in and met an Austrian guy who lives in Canada. We talked about our travels in Japan and then we were joined by a Japanese guy! (very typically Japanese - I didn't like his attitude). We all finally went to sleep after a long, late-night conversation.

The next morning I was up early to see the sights. I took the tram to the Danube Canal and from there walked along the canal (ugly). Then I went to the main cathedral, Stefansdom (disappointing) - it is completely walled in by its surrounding buildings. The interior is lovely, but most of the stained glass is gone due to bombing during the war (I didn't even know Vienna was bombed!). From there, I went to the City Park (very nice - parks in Vienna are polished to a "T"). Then I walked by some impressive, old, official buildings to Karlsplatz. I visited Karlskirche - very nice. Finally, I stopped at the Opera House, but no tours were available until the following week! I met a young Japanese guy there, and we walked around the rest of the day together.

We stopped at the Art Museum (a good Egyptian collection and excellent Dutch Renaissance paintings), but overall I preferred the museums in Berlin. We saw yet more lovely parks and buildings - Vienna appears to be what Prague would have become if Czechoslovakia had been capitalist. I see good things in both cities: for overall atmosphere - Prague, hands down; but for elegance, culture, and such things - Vienna is the place to be. Posters of a famous conductors and symphonies appear everywhere as well as monuments to Strauss and other composers. I saw many plaques of "Mozart slept here". Vienna has more culture per city block than any other I visited. For that reason alone, it is worth being in the city, but, unfortunately, my visit is out of the music season (and I don't have enough money). It would be nice to return when I am older with money and stay a few days to eat good food, drink beer, and go to concerts.

We ate some bread and sausage in the park and then went to Schloss Belvedere to see its modern art collection (the Japanese guy was really into it). I just wanted to see the palace. Neither of us were disappointed. For me, the paintings were just OK, but the palace was great! and the gardens were lovely. After that, we walked to the Südbahnhof to get my Austria Ticket (rail pass). We ate dinner in a nearby park. It was very enjoyable - we were surrounded by sparrows. We returned to the city center to send postcards to my friends back in Japan. I took advantage of the guy's ability to write notes for me! We heard an impromptu Strauss concert outdoors which wasn't all that great (but it was free). Finally, we returned to the hostel. I had a bad night's sleep as the guy beside me kept jumping out of bed and shouting. He was WEIRD.

The morning has been all bad. The laundry was difficult to find and then it was expensive! I had to pay a lot for other people to take my clothes and wash them for me (using laundromat machines!) I paid for another night in the hostel and got my things in order. Then I left for Schönbrunn Palace. The gardens are vast, but the exterior is a little disappointing.

June 12 (Vienna - Villach, Austria, train)

The interior of Schönbrunn was worth the pricey entrance ticket. Wow! Such splendor - I was on an English tour with a very international group. I enjoyed it far more than I anticipated. After that, I went to the Südbahnhof to find out about trains to Villach (and Hungary). I had to buy more film (it was expensive). I wandered back to the St Stephans Cathedral to climb the tower - when I saw the price, I changed plans. With aching feet, I pushed on to the Hofburg Palace grounds. Hofburg was the main palace while Schönbrunn was the summer one and Belvedere for special occasions. I stopped in the Votiv Church, built by the same architect at St Stephens. The Votiv Church is complete while St Stephens has one tower that was never finished. The stained glass is much better in Votiv Church.

Some beggar kids came up to me and "hissed" at me for money - yuck. As they didn't appear to need the money (based on their clothes), it left a bad taste in my mouth. Back at the hostel I bought some bread, cheese, and meat in a nearby market (not cheap) but it filled me up. As I ate, I heard some guys making some disparaging comments about tourists in Austria. They must have assumed I didn't understand any German (or they didn't care). It felt like everything bad was happening in one day. I didn't sleep well that night because people returned at midnight and were noisy and that weird guy is still there - strange as ever. He sat up in bed once again and screamed.

Vienna to Villach (train)

I left Vienna easily and after 30 minutes the scenery changed into rolling hills. As the mountains grew around the tracks, I spotted hilltop castles, mansions, and villages tucked into valleys. The landscape was gorgeous - I didn't realize how much I needed a break from travel in cities. I had abandoned my large pack to storage in Vienna so I could travel less encumbered. It felt so liberating.

The tracks pass some beautiful lakes. The largest is the Wörthersee between Klagenfurt and Villach. Although heavily developed with hotels, it still looked beautiful. As I would discover later, it was a favorite place for Brahms to spend summers and compose music.

Villach

Villach

An unusual must-see for me was Villach. My neighbors growing up in Pennsylvania were Donau Schwabian, Germans who migrated into the lower Danube Valley. In what is now Serbia (at that time Yugoslavia and prior to that "Banat" of the Austro-Hungarian Empire), their family had lived for generations. After the war, they were persona non grata and "repatriated" to Germany (or at least to a German-speaking country). They often spoke of living in the refugee camp in Villach. I went to find it.

Upon arrival in Villach I started my search for the camp where the Lukas family had lived. Mostly I received blanks stares from those I asked. It was too long ago and no one remembered. Although strolling in Villach was a pleasant change from Vienna, my inquiries were getting nowhere. I happened to meet an American guy, Ed, who had been brought to the city by his parents. They had immigrated to the US and wanted their son to see "the old country". We ate lunch together and he joined me in my quest. The poor guy was on his day alone and seemed lost. The day drew on and after all my questioning, I was told that MAYBE Wernberg Castle had been used as a hospital after the war. Anna Lukas was born in a castle - perhaps that was the place? Unfortunately, it was late in the day and there were no more buses. I would have to try the next day. In a bonus, I found my "Rabbit Pass" also covered a number of buses in Austria (the so-called, Post Buses).

I returned to the station with Ed. There was no cheap accommodation in Villach - I was told to try Klagenfurt (a larger town). Ed missed his train and I couldn't help him. I headed toward Klagenfurt, passing the lovely Wörthersee once again.

Notes:

Vienna - Villach, Austria (train)

I got off to a good start this morning, however. I left my large pack with the hostel. I am traveling in Austria with a small one. Now I am on an express train bound for Rome - it is exceptionally fast. The area around Vienna is flat for the first 30 minutes, but now the train is climbing into the foothills of the Alps. The views are already starting to look spectacular - villages in valleys, hilltop castles and mansions, old churches - I need a break from big cities!

June 14 (Klagenfurt - Lienz, train)

The remainder of the train ride to Villach was lovely. After the mountains came a lake district with rivers, lakes, and farmland. Between Klagenfurt and Villach is the Wörthersee, a beautiful lake (but overdeveloped).

Villach, Austria

I arrived in Villach late Saturday afternoon (meaning after 12:00pm) to find most of the town closed. I made inquiries about the refugee camp where my neighbors the Lukas family had stayed after World War II. I only got blank stares and a lot of bad information. Basically, I was given the run-around. Villach was a very nice, quiet change from Vienna. I had a nice lunch with some beer and I talked with a clueless American guy (he was nice), Ed, whose parents were Austrian. They brought him back to Austria to show him around. That day was his solo day and the last I saw of him was as he watched the train he was to have taken pull out of the station roll into the sunset.

All my efforts and questions pointed me to Wernberg Castle where Ann Lukas might have been born. That all got tabled to the following day though - no more buses. The Austria Rail Pass is getting better and better as I found it includes many bus routes, too! I returned to Klagenfurt to the youth hostel

Klagenfurt

I checked into the youth hostel and went out to see the town in the early evening light. Klagenfurt was much better than Villach with a more lovely old town center, but it was absolutely closed down. I saw people running everywhere. I had stumbled upon the town's annual "run". I wandered a little more and returned to the hostel. The owner's wife (with good English) told me that Heiligenblut above Lienz was a lovely place with a hostel. I was intrigued - it would mean traveling into the true Alps. I slept well - it had been a long day.

The following morning after continental breakfast (my least favorite while traveling as it doesn't provide much morning energy). I considered stopping off at the lake on my way to Villach.

in search of a symphony

One of my students in Japan had made me a couple of mix tapes for my Walkman before the big trip home. An incredibly eclectic mix, it included some classical (as I requested). One of the pieces was Brahms Symphony 2. I am not sure if it was because I listened to it hundreds of times during that journey, but until this day I still love that piece. By chance, I found out that, unlike Symphony 1 which took Brahms YEARS to write, he cranked out his second symphony in just one summer on the shores of the Wörthersee.  Surprisingly, none of the the train stations along the lake were pedestrian-friendly. The whole area was far enough off the train line (which was quite old) to give it solitude. I didn't have enough time for a visit, so I would have to settle for viewing it again from the train. I felt disappointed as I learned the lakeshore used to be a series of resorts for rich Viennese in the summer before the days of easy air travel out of the country - something like the Poconos for New Yorkers. The area is a classic example of how railways transformed towns. Klagenfurt and the Wörthersee had been just sleepy Austrian backwaters in the province of Carinthia. The railway brought easy access from the capital and suddenly the lake was transformed into a destination. There used to be casinos lakeside - a place to "see and be seen" for several decades.

In those days, Brahms also escaped the big city and set up house on the lake. Honestly speaking it appeared the lake and its surrounds were mildly pleasant rather than absolutely gorgeous. Because of loving that symphony, especially its soul-stirring finale, I assumed the lake would be some magically transformative paradise. Although disappointed to miss it, I could also see it was not going to be transcendently beautiful. If it had been, I might have tried harder.

Notes:

Klagenfurt, Austria

After check-in and talking to the wife of the proprietor (whose English was good), I went out to explore the old section of town. It was better restored than Villach's but was absolutely dead. The whole town was participating in the annual "town run" on the square - people were running everywhere! It was fun to explore, but I felt tired and went back to sleep in a tw0-bed room (!!) at the hostel. The woman at the hostel told me of a great hostel above Lienz at Heiligenblut. I might try to get there if I can make it by bus. It is located near the very top of Austria! I woke the next day to have a continental breakfast (which I have come to hate - not much to eat). I made my way back to the train station and headed back to Villach.

Villach (again)

I returned to Villach ready to spend the full day in search of the journey of the family Lukas. In the days where one needed dogged perseverance to find things rather than GPS, armed with German I, I asked and asked until I found the right bus to the castle. Although unremarkable as castles go in Europe, it still had a lovely setting. I did meet an old nun with excellent English (she was an English teacher). She said it indeed had been used as a hospital but it was not part of any camp. Her memories were more like a series of snapshots and not particularly helpful. If Anna was born there, she could honestly claim to have been born in a real castle in Austria. The bus ride back to town was pleasant. The driver knew most of the passengers by name! It felt very warm and homey.

Before leaving for Japan, I had scribbled some notes from conversations with Mr. and Mrs. Lukas in anticipation of the trip home via Europe. Unfortunately, even with those notes, those conversations were from three years earlier and hard to understand. People in town led me to St Nikolas Church where a friendly priest told me to check out St Martin's Church. A friendly couple gave me a lift in their share taxi. At St Martins I found the site of one of the camps (there had been several apparently). Much to my astonishment, as with most refugee camps over time, it had become a part of town. People who had not moved onto Germany or overseas ended up staying and making a neighborhood. Many were from East Germany not wanting to return due to the communist government. I don't know what exactly I expected to find, but it was definitely no longer a "refugee camp". I walked back to town. Even without much to see, I made sure to take photos to show the Lukas' on my return to the USA. After hearing about a place for years, I had found it. This was the city of "the camp" that they had often spoken of. Without any context, especially for a young person, I realized that I had been looking for a point in history, not an actual place. I felt rather foolish not to have given the whole effort more thought before setting out.

I met a young guy at the bus station who asked why I was visiting Villach. When I told him my story and where I had been, he had more suggestions. I doubted I could follow up on them. It had been interesting stomping around Villach, and with the exception on one unfriendly priest, everyone had been very kind and patient with my terrible German. I needed to get back to my own travels.

I caught the train to Lienz, the final stop in the Austrian region of Kärnten.

Notes:

Villach, Austria (again)

In Villach, I journeyed to the castle where I met an old nun who told me it used to be a hospital during the way and only a few refugees stayed there. She mostly recalled a Hungarian doctor from that time. She also said there were several camps in town. If Ann L indeed was born in that castle, it was a very lovely setting. That nun I spoke with was extremely pleasant - she was an English teacher with nearly perfect English. Unfortunately, she was quite old and only remembered a few assorted details. The bus driver on the way to the castle was also friendly - he knew the names of the regular passengers! The ride felt very homey.

I raced back to town hoping to hop the train, but then I found another piece of information in my notes I had overlooked. The search was on again. I met a priest outside of St Nikolas Church who told me to check out St Martin's Church. A middle-aged couple gave me a lift with them in a taxi as they were going in that direction anyway. I found the site of one of the old refugee camps - over the years, it had become real housing for the remaining people - just a series of dull apartments. There, I met a woman who directed me to an old gentleman. That guy told me that most of the people had emigrated to the US and Canada, but those who had remained were mostly from Eastern Germany. It's too bad I didn't know any of the names of people the Lukases knew from the camp. I walked back to town.

I talked to a nice young guy at the bus station. He was interested in what I was doing in Villach. He said the place I might be looking for was Stallhoven near Wernberg Castle. I don't know if I will go back and check it out. I already stomped around Villach enough and took some nice photos. Largely, I have good memories of my time there except for one of the priests who seemed not to want to tell me anything. Everyone else was great and super patient with my awful German.

Now I am headed to Lienz, my last stop in the Kärnten region.

Lienz

It is only an hour and a half to Lienz. The Dolomites soar above the town. I was incredibly impressed - I was in the Alps for sure and just over those peaks lay Italy. Tempted to cross just to set foot in the country, I realized my pass didn't cover it, and I was very short on funds. I called ahead to the youth hostel to reserve a room. Then I went to find the bus for Heiligenblut. Luckily (it was the weekend) one was departing in a few hours. I strolled around Lienz and took in its magnificent setting. The town itself was too commercial for my taste, but with those mountains rising just behind, it really didn't matter.

I also needed to find a place for lunch. It was becoming increasingly apparent I could ill-afford to eat well in Austria. I passed restaurants where people were chowing down on the most delicious-looking dishes and found myself aways eating the same thing: bread, cheese, sausage, and a beer. At least in Lienz I discovered a fine stout, Gösser Dunkel, which helped fill me up.

Notes:

June 15 (Mallnitz Station, Austria)

I think my memories of Austria are going to be something like: "lovely landscapes, friendly people, and ... starvation. I just can't afford to eat and the food around me looks so good!

Lienz, Austria

Upon arrival in Lienz, I found there was a bus to Heiligenblut later that day (amazing because on weekends bus service is reduced about 50%). I called ahead and there was room at the hostel, so I had a couple of hours to kill in the city. First, I ate. It wasn't cheap, but it was good and the beer, Gösser Dunkel, was excellent! I walked around town - a little too commercialized for my taste, but given it is at the foot of the Dolomites (tall and jagged, very iconic "Alps" scenery), I was not complaining. Lienz was my first real feeling that I was actually "in the Alps". It was incredibly scenic.

Lienz to Heiligenblut (bus)

I boarded the bus which slowly followed a valley up into the mountains. The scenery was majestic, but less severe than the jagged mountains right behind Lienz. For me, I was transported into Heidi, one of the first books I read together with my mom. It felt like a fairytale. The tops of the mountains were snow-covered and onion-domed churches poked up out of villages along the way. Waterfalls came and went as we traveled farther into the mountains. The scenery was heavenly. Little did I know that I was only a short train ride away from another town I would love decades later, Bolzano in Italy.

Notes:

Lienz - Heiligenblut, Austria (bus)

The bus ride into the mountains went up and up and up. The landscape around Heiligenblut was not a severe as in Lienz, but it still felt majestic. I seemed like I was inside the story "Heidi" - little farms with lovely flowerboxes and meadows on the sides of mountains. Little churches poked up here and there. The tops of the mountains were still snow-covered and some waterfalls cascaded from the mountain peaks - one was very large and impressive just before Heiligenblut.

Heiligenblut

Großglockner

Jungfernsprung Wasserfall

The bus traveled down a long, narrow valley under Austria's highest peak, Grossglockner. The destination village turned out to be touristic (that business is its mainstay), but it did not appear grossly over-commercialized. Like Lienz, the scenery was so beautiful not much else mattered. I had a short walk around and talked to a couple of German guys in the hostel. I slept early - it had been another long day.

The following morning I saw the famous local waterfall, Jungfernsprung, just outside of town. Like the entire area, it was indescribably beautiful. My original plan was to cross the mountains to Zell am See, another famous alpine resort town, but it started to rain. Then, the bus driver said that the bus was "special" and not covered by my pass and I would have to pay an additional fare. Since I was in extreme budget mode, I decided to return to Lienz via a different route. The tourist office in Heiligenblut put me onto a much better route taking me through some scenic villages when I realized I had to go back to the hostel and fetch my toiletries bag. Since the contents were too expensive to replace, I lost time doing that and then got stuck in a downpour. I had my usual Austrian repast as I waited for the rain to let up. In the rain, the mountain air turned cold - I wasn't prepared for such a shock. Finally, I ended up on the same bus returning to Lienz. The clouds hung in the mountain valleys creating some lovely scenery after the rain when the sun shone through in patches of golden light.

I called ahead to the next hostel and booked a room for two nights. I would arrive late (I hated that), but I didn't want to overnight in Lienz.

I was on my way to Salzburg.

Notes:

Heiligenblut, Austria

The small town lies at the end of a long, narrow valley above which looms Grossglockner, the highest mountain Austria. Heiligenblut is a tourist village, but it was not so commercialized as to detract from the natural beauty of the location. It truly felt like a kind of paradise. After a short walk around and a chat with two German guys in the room, I feel asleep.

The following morning was incredibly beautiful and I walked to the waterfall (fantastic). I planned to visit the mountain and then cross the mountains to Zelle am See. Well, it started to rain... Then the driver said the bus was special and I had to pay an additional fare to continue. Because of the rain and not being able to see anything, I decided to go the long way around back to Lienz via Spittal. I met some very kind women in the tourist information office who said that I could make a much faster connection in Winklern (a lovely village where two mountain valleys form a "T": Obervellach and Mallnitz). I boarded the bus only to realize that I left my entire toiletries bag at the hostel. It had EVERYTHING in it and would be expensive to replace. So, I went back to Heiligenblut instead and got stuck in the rain there (not such a bad place to be stuck for a couple of hours). I bought some bread, cheese, sausage, and beer for lunch (probably for all day). It turned cold. I was happy when the bus finally arrived.

Heiligenblut - Salzburg, Austria (bus and train)

The rain continued, but the sun broke through on and off and the clouds hung low in the valleys - it was exceptionally beautiful. I made reservations in Salzburg for two days. I need to relax a little. I don't like arriving so late, but since I reserved a space, it should be ok. Today, in spite of all the beauty, is not one I'd like to repeat!

Salzburg

Castle

Salzburg

Mozart House

I arrived to a rainy Salzburg at night. The youth hostel was in a former monastery and was actually quite comfortable. The following morning I nervously awaited (with some other guys) the announcement of room availability. It would have been massively inconvenient (and a waste of time) to wake up and immediately check out and look for another room. Luckily, one was available! I met Americans everywhere in Salzburg - the most I had so far. Most were on Eurail passes for 21 days visiting 20 countries (or something similar). Overall, my disdain for their rushed and uninformed travel was only matched by my envy over the huge budgets on which they traveled. All of us were in Salzburg for one main reason though - a movie.

On the trail of the Sound of Music

How absolutely bizarre that in the birthplace of Mozart I was obsessed with a film, but having grown up watching the Sound of Music repeatedly (and knowing all the songs), the chance to visit Salzburg and the actual film locations was something I couldn't pass up. I met a Japanese guy, Yanagi, as I walked around. We spent time together visiting places from the film (for my sake - he didn't even know the film) and we talked a lot. The best location was the Mirabel Palace Gardens - very recognizable (and beautiful).

Even in cloudy weather Salzburg was lovely. Salzburg was also EXPENSIVE. I started to regret my decision to travel in Austria on the rail pass. No matter where I went I felt impoverished. Salzburg is, in fact, one of the most expensive places in Austria simply because it is such a tourist magnet. In addition to the Sound of Music settings, we also stopped at the very old St Peter's Cemetery at the base of the castle hill. It impressed us both. I didn't care at all about Mozarts Geburtshaus and the visit to Salzburg was just little too early for the summer Salzburger Festspiele, an absolute must-do for classical music lovers. Probably the best thing about the city was how pedestrian friendly it is. I loved that the historic center felt almost car-free.

The castle hill's views were good (when the clouds occasionally parted). I looked down at the city and its partially obscured views of the mountains. Even though Krakow and Prague were spectacular; in spite of the tourists, Salzburg wasn't all that bad either. Although totally given over to commercialism, it retains a sophisticated air. I thought it deserved a return trip in better weather. After getting my usual meal (bread, cheese, and sausage) , I ate in the station while Yanagi waited for a train to Innsbruck. By chance I found an international pay phone and called home. I returned to the hostel to find it was fully booked for the next day. No choice, I had to move on.

Pigeon Shit

One strong memory from Salzburg was buying "the usual": a couple of semmel rolls, 200g of cheese, and 100g. of sausage, and a beer for my "poor man's lunch". I spread it all out on the steps of a church in the shade and a pigeon unceremoniously shat on the food. I was cash-strapped and very hungry. I wondered if I could clean it off? No way - that was bird shit. I went hungry that day for lunch. I ate very little in Austria - the price I paid to travel in that beautiful (and popular) country.

Of course, the next morning I awoke to lovely weather. I got on a bus headed toward Bad Ischl where I would transfer to my final destination - Hallstatt

Notes:

Salzburg, Austria

June 16 (St. Sebastian Institut, Salzburg, Austria)

I arrived in Salzburg and checked in. I talked to an American guy who was on a graduation trip (as a gift) - he was a typical "clueless American abroad". Very nice guy, but he was traveling on a 21-day Eurail pass and hitting 20 countries.

The morning was filled with anxiety about if I could stay another night in the venerable Institut St. Sebastian. I could! Me and another guy (in the same room last night) moved to a big, 4-bed room next to a great cemetery. I assumed the place is (or was) a monastery - it is very nice and full of tourists. Most of the tourists are Americans (clueless). One guy is John who is entering grad school at Penn (lucky!) and was super-interesting to talk to. That made for a good change. Anyway, even walking to the monastery in the rain last night I couldn't help but feel the city was overrun by American tourists (ugh). Hence, I cannot say my initial impressions of Salzburg were very good.

The weather was cloudy, but not too rainy. I went out to explore the city. Had it been clear, the mountains would have been visible adding much more to the views, but I have to admit that in spite of all the tourists and glitz, Salzburg is a nice town. It isn't Krakow or Prague, but the place is mostly a pedestrian zone and is easy to walk around. I climbed up to the castle which has potentially great views. The building itself was gray and dull with some beautiful wildflowers growing in some of the cracks and crevices

The churches in the old town were OK. The best by far is the cathedral (with the nicest surroundings). St Peters cemetery enclosure was good. Anyway, as I was watching an outdoor chess match (with people-sized pieces), I met a Japanese guy, Yanagi, and we talked and talked and talked. Later, we got rained on and froze - the rain let up but the weather turned very cold. We walked in and out of shops in the old town. Finally, we visited the Mirabel Palace and gardens - well-maintained, but dull. I got my usual "bread, cheese, sausage, drink" for lunch and ate it in the station with Yanagi-san as I waited for him to catch a train to Innsbruck. He missed the first and got on the next.

I tried to make a hostel reservation for tomorrow night with no success, but in doing so, found an international phone and called home. Anyway, my impression of Salzburg is that it must be great in good weather, but the tourists and touristy "stuff" were not appealing. In spite of all that, Salzburg retains its dignity. I think few other touristy cities can claim the same.

I hope to return again in better weather - at least to enjoy the views.

June 17 (TVN Gasthaus, Hallstatt, Austria)

Salzburg's weather was not much better the following morning, but at least it wasn't raining. I checked out of the hostel and got on a bus to Bad Ischl.

HALLSTATT

I rode a bus mostly filled with tourists to Bad Ischl where I could catch the train to Hallstatt. In Bad Ischl the weather was nice and, as it was lunch time in a pleasant town, I decided to stay longer. The weather being unpredictable, I had to enjoy the sun whenever it came out! Luckily, I caught the tail end of an al fresco classical music performance during lunch. I also called ahead to the hostel and booked a room. Hallstatt was popular and I didn't want to risk not having a place to sleep. One thing surprised me: for all its popularity, no direct bus nor train linked it with Salzburg - even in peak tourist season.

I hopped the train and in less than 30 minutes arrived at the impressive, mountain-enclosed Hallstattersee. The train station is actually on the opposite side of the lake and requires a short ferry ride. The setting is dramatic for sure and little Hallstatt across the water appears as an impossible location for a town with steep mountains rising right behind it. Add to that, a lovely waterfall cuts the town in two! I followed the crowd to the ferry dock where I blundered onto a German tour. I didn't understand much of the explanation, but I got a free lake tour rather than the short ride straight across the water.

While in Salzburg I came to know the place to visit nearby was Hallstatt. In the days before the internet, it was just a name - I hadn't even seen a photo. It was already well-known in 1987 and only grew in fame afterward. These days the village has become so famous that the Chinese built a replica of it on an artificial lake! My visit to Hallstatt found a tourist town not yet overrun by the future hoards of netizens who had seen images of it online. A mountain lake with steep cliffs on each side with little Hallstatt along the one narrow strip of flat land, it almost looked like the buildings had been cut and pasted there. No wonder people fell in love with it - I was happy I made the trip. I loved the place and should have stopped longer to recharge my batteries, but I had a rail pass and more of Austria waiting for me. The area had a lot to offer, too - some salt mines and another small town on a lake nearby that was apparently even better (and less touristy) than Hallstatt. Sadly, there was no time....

I left the German tour group after docking and searched for the youth hostel in vain. How could I not locate it in such a small place? Alas, I gave up and found another hostel almost directly by the falls and booked a bed. Later at the tourist information center they told me that hostel was the best in town - what luck! The sun had come out in the meantime and I wandered the place very happily. Hallstatt was one of the most beautiful locations I had stumbled across on the entire trip! I ate my boring lunch of bread, cheese, and sausage and wished I had more money to enjoy such an exquisite location.

I returned to the hostel to meet the people staying there and we became fast friends. They invited me for beers, but I was too tired (and minding my shillings). Three Americans changed their minds and planned to find a proper hotel the next morning. The idea of shared rooms and bathrooms freaked them out. The rest of us at the hostel loved it!

In the morning, we had some delicious hot chocolate after breakfast. The hostel managers were wonderful and we all sat around and talked. Outside in town we found the Americans again (much happier with their new accommodation). After lunch, we climbed the mountain behind town during a window of sunshine. It gave a glorious view over the lake and all of us Americans joked about the search of The Sound of Music and having found a place that matched the film's opening credits' meadow. The American guy, Glenn, who was traveling with his sister and her friend. had brought some beers. It is a great memory drinking beer in a grassy mountain meadow overlooking a lake in Austria....

I was sad to leave everyone, but I had to move on. I was taking the overnight train to Feldkirch at the extreme western end of the country. An overnight ride also helped me save on a room as I watched my supply of money quickly evaporate.

Notes:

Salzburg - Hallstatt, Austria (bus, train, boat)

I met a couple of Japanese (again!). They were honeymooners on their way to St Wolfgang, but they got off the bus at the wrong stop (I thought). The bus was filled with English people, not sure why? They didn't seem to be part of an organized group, but they absolutely filled the bus.

Bad Ischl was pleasant enough, so I decided to stay longer. I walked around and got something to eat. It felt cold, even colder than Salzburg, but the sun was trying to come out and that was nice. I ate in a concert hall after the concert had finished (I caught the last bit, beautiful). After making a reservation at the hostel in Hallstatt, I had the rest of the day free to reach there. I decided to take the train toward Obertraun where I got off at Hallstatt Station and followed the signs to ferries that crossed the lake. Then it poured! Nonetheless, arriving to the Hallstättersee by train is beautiful. The lake is surrounded by walls of mountains with tiny Hallstatt clinging to one side. A waterfall literally cuts the town in half - even in the gloomy weather it was gorgeous. The boat finally left for Hallstatt and I mistakenly got on a tour boat which took me on a guided tour of the lake and then to Hallstatt (for free) because they thought I was with the herd of Germans around me.

Hallstatt, Austria

I arrived in Hallstatt to a light drizzle and couldn't find the youth hostel. I ended up staying at another type of hostel which turned out to be much nicer (right in front of the waterfall!). The information office was extremely helpful and advised me that I had booked into the best hostel (even if in error). Anyway, I walked all over the city, got more to eat, and enjoyed the fact that it was finally sunny. I was in one of the most beautiful places of the entire trip! Still - eating bread, cheese, and sausage is getting really old.

The people working in the hostel were very friendly - although when I arrived they were quite busy. Fellow hostelers were actually few - an old Japanese guy, two English girls, and three Americans from Ohio. The Japanese guy was quite long-winded and the two British girls were a shriek! The three Americans were very young and exactly the kind of traveler I wished had not shown up. I got the Post Bus regional map and schedule to find I can see much of the area tomorrow on my way out. I heard the nearby town of Gosausee is even better than Hallstatt (unbelievable). There are salt mines and ice caves to explore, but both are touristy and expensive.

So, I am in a lovely city on the edge of a lake. I saw it in the (brief) sunshine, too. I am happy!

June 18 (Train Station, Salzburg, Austria)

I got to know Becka and Sally, the Brits; as well as Glenn, Sharon, and Karen, the Americans; and the old Japanese guy. They all went out that evening for beer, but I passed (no money, no energy). In the morning, the three Americans went off to find another hotel as they were not wild about a hostel (especially Sharon). The rest of us found it wonderful (it was). The people who managed it were great. We had some hot chocolate and talked a LOT. We went out and found the other three in their hotel and talked some more. Finally, we all had lunch and then climbed the mountain behind the town during the full 30 minutes of sunshine that day. Glenn splurged on a few beers (very kind) and we relaxed. The walk back down was fast.

It was time for me to go after a quick bite to eat. I felt sorry to leave them all as we got along well. It felt good to relax and just hang out for a day. The two Brits were very enlightened travelers - the Americans, naive. At least Glenn had traveled before so he was a little better than the others. The whole area and experience was definitely worth the time to travel there. It is truly spectacular, too bad the weather didn't cooperate more. Tonight I will board a sleeper (will I sleep?) and wake up in Western Austria.

Hallstatt to Feldkirch (bus, train)

As there were many long-distance trains from Salzburg headed west, it made the most sense to retrace the journey back to Salzburg Station where I could board a sleeper more easily (or so I thought). As it turned out, there was a scramble for the seats on board and to stake out some "territory" for the long ride. I met a particularly dim American woman who could not understand that the train was going to divide into two segments during the journey and only HALF of the train was going to Italy (her destination). Since she had a confirmed seat reservation, she had little to worry about - yet she was in a panic.

I rode the train as the Eurailers did - making the best of second class seats put together. The ride was not restful (but it was a free bed). I gained some insight into why the Eurail crowd always looked so disheveled and tired. I met a few more interesting types on the train as well. The Austrians with me were friendly and patient with my abysmal German.

The morning broke to sunny skies. We were deep in the mountains between Innsbruck and Feldkirch and the morning light hit their peaks first and slowly filtered into the valleys. The first light on the snow covered peaks was dazzling. I loved traveling in Austria.

Notes:

Salzburg - Feldkirch, Austria (train)

June 19 (Feldkirche Youth Hostel, Austria)

The scramble for seats on the train was not a thrill. I met some truly clueless American women who couldn't understand that part of the train was continuing into Italy and the other part only to the Austrian border. I also met a great young guy from New Zealand who was only 18 and had already worked his way around Europe. He seemed a little strange but, as with all Kiwis, was friendly and kind. The train ride wasn't all that restful, but I managed to sleep (as the Eurailer's do - second class seats together - ugh). Give me a first class sleeper any day - no wonder those travelers always look like shit.

I awoke to clear skies and spectacular views of the Alps between Innsbruck and Feldkirch. The sunrise over the mountains was incredible - first it lit the tops of the snow-covered mountains brilliantly and then slowly filtered into the valley below. I traveled with a young Austrian student and a cook who was Austrian but lived in Switzerland. They were very patient with my bad German.

Feldkirch

I arrived to Feldkirch extremely early. I found the youth hostel and had to wait until 7am to ring the bell for entrance. Luckily the manager was extremely helpful and friendly. He allowed me to leave my bags while I went out to find a money changer (I was out of cash). The man at the hostel also recommended against many things highlighted in Let's Go and gave me some alternatives. Chief among those was renting a bike and riding into Liechtenstein - only 15 kilometers away! That may have been one of the most interesting bicycle journeys of my life and certainly the only transnational one.

My bags were safe, I had shillings in my pocket, and I rented a bike. Next stop, Liechtenstein.

Notes:

Feldkirch, Austria

I arrived in Feldkirch with no money. I walked up to the youth hostel and waited until 7am, then I rang the bell and entered. The manager was a really nice guy and let me leave my bags there. He advised me against certain things in Let's Go and gave some good alternatives. He told me I could rent a bike for the day for a reasonable price and, as the weather was lovely, I decided to ride into Liechtenstein, just 15km away.

I changed more money and then had a bizarre experience on the bus. The driver was actually rude with me because I got on the wrong one (very unusual), but I was finally in the right place and ready to explore. My bags were dropped, I cashed a traveler's check, and rented a bike.

(to be continued)

LIECHTENSTEIN

View over Vaduz

Who would not want to visit that tiny alpine country if given the chance? Honestly, on the Austrian rail pass I had no plan to visit, but given I was literally next door in Feldkirch (and there wasn't all that much there), it was easy enough to rent a bicycle and ride over the border. Liechtenstein officially started right at the edge of town. I was waved through border control on the main road without even a check. That road was lined with typical border-type restaurants and shops, but it was also a busy connection between Austria and Liechtenstein - not bike friendly. Luckily, a parallel, lesser-traveled road ran near the main road, so I could safely cycle toward Vaduz.

The mountains soared around me. It felt the most alpine of any place I had been to that point. I was surprised in such a small country by the number of farms (and cows!). Ahead Vaduz Castle appeared on a hill and I made that my destination. The road up to the castle was not that steep, but it was a long slog and I felt exhausted by the time I reached the gate. Unfortunately, it is still occupied by the royal family (no tours), so I had to satisfy myself with the lovely view over Vaduz.

After an easy ride down on that same road, I found myself in downtown Vaduz. The place is totally given over to "tiny country tourism". I felt disappointed, but not enough to decline the "fancy stamp" in my passport given at Tourist Information. They provided maps and I planned my return via the least steep route. That actually took me through the countryside near the headwaters of the Rhine. The roads took me past small villages on very rural byways. The Rhine was little more than a mountain stream (kind of disappointing), but it still was exciting to see it. The whole return trip was beautiful (and relaxing).

The border post was almost like something from a comic book - a sentry cabin with one old guy who checked the papers of the very few passersby. He was surprised to see my American passport (and I was riding a bicycle!). We had a longish discussion in German I about all my stamps and which countries I had visited. No tension, just a very bored border guard. After a lot of explanation, I was back in Austria.

I returned to Feldkirch tired but satisfied. I had been to a tiny country which most people had heard of but never knew the exact location. Now I knew where it was - next to Feldkirch, Austria.

Notes:

Bike trip to Liechtenstein

June 20 (Meeting Room, Innsbruck Youth Hostel, Austria)

The bicycle was the usual rented variety (too small), but as the roads weren't all that steep, I was OK. It was almost all downhill to the border where they just waved me through - no check, nothing. Then I passed a lot of border-type shops and restaurants until I finally entered the countryside. The mountains towered around the valley and it felt wonderful gliding along on a bike - so many cows and so much farmland for a small country! The mountains were definitely the most Alps-like yet. I passed through two small towns and finally entered Vaduz where a road led up to the castle. Although the road wasn't steep, it was still uphill and I was beat by the time I got to the top. The castle is still inhabited (or at least used occasionally) by the royal family, so it is only viewable from the outside. It commands a nice view over the valley. I descended to the center of town which was a huge tourist trap - so disappointing after a good build up. I got a map at the tourist information center, a stamp for my passport, and then scouted out a return route that would be as flat as possible. As the weather started changing, I left downtown Vaduz and cycled to smaller towns near the Rhine. They were all a delight to drive through. I made detour to see the Rhine before entering Austria and was surprised how small it was. Then again, it was the headwaters only. After numerous villages, I finally crossed the border on a small country road where the border guards were surprised to see an American tourist on a bicycle. They loved looking at all the stamps on my passport. The border house was a small, old-fashioned structure with a hand operated gate! It was very cute. I passed through equally nice scenery on the way back to Feldkirch and finally entered the old town.

Feldkirch (again)

Feldkirch appeared to be a small Austrian town with an intact medieval core minus all the tourism. It felt original, but the downside was not many people out on the street. The place felt dead. I walked to its venerable castle, Shattenberg: my first taste of a castle restored to its original state rather than as a museum. I was highly impressed: it literally appeared the inhabitants just walked off and left everything behind.

The skies opened and I sought shelter. It was still early to get into the hostel. The wait was justified - it was one of the best hostels of the entire trip. The building dates back to the 1400's and was completely restored. I met a lot of Americans there and we all shared travel stories. We went out for beer together in the vacant downtown. In a surprisingly packed pub, we felt "at home", but the loud music (European contemporary music was not my taste) and smoke eventually drove us back to the hostel. It had been a good day - one of the best in some time.

The next morning at breakfast we all wished each other farewell and pleasant journeys only to meet again at the train station. Most people were even on the same train headed east! The two-hour ride was as spectacular as it had been for outbound journey. We arrived in Innsbruck to sunshine, too.

Notes:

Feldkirch, Austria (again)

I had a nice stroll in the old downtown and found it deserted (but quite nice). It was a good chance to see a small Austrian city in a non-touristy atmosphere. Feldkirch appeared to be a small, restored medieval city minus all the glitz of tourism. I had some lunch and then I walked up to the castle to find the best-restored castle to date. Rather than "display" things they restored the place as is. It felt like walking into it just as the inhabitants had left it - all of the original furniture in place, a nice little courtyard - it was great. The place is called Shattenburg Castle.

Then it rained, rained, and rained. I waited for the hostel to re-open - it was very boring. Finally, I re-entered and checked into the most beautiful space. It dates back to the 1400s and is totally restored. It was the best youth hostel ever! I bought some dinner at a nearby store and ate it talking to fellow hostelers: 3 Californians (Mike, Larry, Mike's sister); Anne (a Taekwon Do blackbelt - a fearless hitchhiker); Kyle, a loquacious Texan; and later, Hannah and Marty, a mother-daughter team (the mom was nice, but her daughter was stuck up). Anyway, overall everyone was fine and I joined a few of them for beers. We searched the dead downtown and then found a packed pub. It felt a lot like home except for the choice of music (kind of bizarre, but then, that's how I find all European music). We all quickly tired of the noise and smoke and went back to the hostel for a comfortable sleep. It was one of the better days I've had: Liechtenstein, the old castle, and then a nice hostel.

This morning after breakfast, everyone said goodbye, but I met almost everyone again at the train station (and we took the same train). The views ranged from pleasant to spectacular and the cloudy weather gave way to sunshine upon arrival in Innsbruck. I was happy!

Innsbruck

Working my way west, I had my sights set on Innsbruck. Innsbruck is a lovely town right in the mountains, and 1987 was only about 10 years after it had hosted the Winter Olympics. I watched those games excitedly as a kid. This was the town where downhill skier Franz Klammer, Austrian legend, won his gold medals. On reflection, I find it interesting that many places on my trip were guided by things I had seen on TV or in the movies. Innsbruck, 1976 Winter Olympic venue, check! I continued west.

Note: the original 1976 Winter Games were awarded to Denver whose citizens turned it down in a referendum. The International Olympic Committee scrambled and turned to Innsbruck who had hosted the games 12 years before and was "good to go" without much additional infrastructure.

In an Innsbruck park while eating lunch, I met Takata from Japan. We struck up a conversation and ended up exploring the city together in the afternoon. The view from downtown of the mountains is like something from a postcard. The old city, even if totally given over to tourism, is beautifully maintained. I found it more atmospheric than even Salzburg. I enjoyed the day walking, taking photos, and talking to Takata.

The plan had been to return to Bregenz and stay in the hostel there, but the timing didn't make sense. I decided to wait in Innsbruck until nightfall and take the sleeper (and hoped there would be a seat). The late afternoon brought rain, but I wasn't complaining - I had seen Innsbruck at its best.

I would wake up in Melk the next morning (if I slept) and take the boat to Vienna. Soon, I would be in Hungary. I loved Austria, but being so cash-poor always detracted from the enjoyment. At least I knew I could afford Hungary.

Notes:

Innsbruck, Austria

I ate lunch in a park and met a Japanese guy, Takata. We walked around the old city together. Wow! I expected little from Innsbruck, but it is nestled in the mountains and from the city center the view is like a postcard. The old city center is great. I really liked the place even though it was crawling with tourists. I thought it retained more atmosphere even than Salzburg. I enjoyed leisurely walking around, talking to Takata, and taking photos. I couldn't make it back to Bregenz (my plan), so I just hung out in Innsbruck. I would take the night train (and hoped it would not be crowded).

As per usual it rained later in the day, but I did see Innsbruck in the sunshine and it was beautiful. Tomorrow, Vienna and finally onto Hungary.

Innsbruck to Melk (train)

Takata and I went out for a bite to eat and were joined by a Brit. We had a good time, but I had to interpret a lot between the British guy and Takata. That kind of conversation becomes tiring, but it was still fun. I bid them farewell and boarded the train with two Americans from Oregon. Surprisingly, they were on their way to Hungary, too. We discussed Eastern Bloc travel - one of them had also been to the USSR. We all strongly agreed that we were trying to avoid the American Eurail set as much as possible.

On second-class fold out seats, I had another fitful sleep.

Notes:

Innsbruck to Melk, Austria (train)

June 21 (Krems to Vienna, Austria - riverboat)

Today was the rainiest so far, but I did manage to complete the intended route. Last night we (me, a Brit, and Takata) went out for a bite to eat and then a beer and talked a lot (mostly, I was interpreting - ugh). I got on the train with two other Americans from Oregon - also on their way to Hungary. We discussed travel in the Eastern Block (the guy had been in the USSR before, but his partner had not). And we agreed there were many Americans in Europe whom we were trying to avoid. As usual, it was a less-than-restful sleep on folded-out seats.

Danube Cruising: Wachau Valley

Melk

Krems

Dürnstein

From Melk down to Vienna is the famous Wachau Valley of the Danube. Cruising between Melk and Krems is a "must-do" on any visit to Austria. After Linz the rails follow along the Danube closely - the scenery is lovely. I felt happy to get on the boat for the passage to Vienna. I had almost lived on Austrian Railways for a week!

Melk

Melk is known for its huge abbey on a hill overlooking the river. I arrived early morning to a light drizzle and walked from the train station through town to the dock. With time to spare, I climbed the hill to the abbey. Wow! It was one of the best religious complexes of the trip to that point. A service was going on, so it wasn't possible to visit inside, but the gilt exterior alone was amazing. Time was limited, so I returned to the boat. As I did, it poured. I got soaked to the bone - the first time on the trip. Traveling in wet clothes has to be one of my least favorite things.

I boarded and we soon set off. As it turned out, the best view of the abbey was from the river, cutting a majestic figure along the Danube. I slowly dried out on the mostly empty boat. My travel companions were two Aussies from Tasmania. The boat itself was impressive and appeared to serve a dual function hosting dinner cruises, too. The PA system played the Blue Danube as we set off - hokey but appropriate. After that, we were occasionally serenaded with live accordion music which interrupted the muzak of American pop music - an odd mix to say the least.

The boat cruised through the misty Wachau Valley in the rain. The river was lined with castles, monasteries, and vineyards. I found it lovely, but perhaps less "amazing" than the guide book had indicated. Whatever the case it felt great to be off the train! I was far more interested watching the huge barges push against the strong river current toward the interior of Europe. The Danube is a major waterway for ships to reach deep into the Continent.

We made one stop before Krems, Dürnstein. The town looked absolutely enchanting with a striking blue bell tower that serves as its river gate. Behind it on a hill stands a ruined castle perched atop sheer cliffs. We cast off and continued to Krems.

Krems

Krems has a storybook old town plus frequent, fast connections to Vienna. The town center was beautifully reconstructed compared to Melk. All those quaint Austrian town centers began to merge in my head: Krems was lovely, but not all that different from other places. I chatted more with the Tasmanians before they caught a train to Vienna. I wandered and explored the city admiring its churches and lovely facades.

Back at the train station (the only place open for lunch on a Sunday - ugh!), I contemplated the onward journey. I still had a lot of time to reach Vienna. The skies once again opened, but at least I was inside. As Dürnstein had captivated me while passing it by, I decided to ride the train for all of 10 minutes to have a closer look.

Dürnstein

I arrived in the rain but was still excited to explore the tiny town. The center was pedestrianized totally. Many arcaded walkways ran toward the river and its iconic blue tower/gate. The ruined castle on the hill was atmospheric even in the rain (Richard the Lionhearted had briefly been imprisoned there). I felt sad I couldn't have stayed for a night, but my rail pass was running out and I was already looking forward to Hungary. The description of the town in Let's Go was "Disney-esque". Perhaps it was, but it was also original. The whole place was extremely scenic, like a riverine Hallstatt. Too soon on the boat again, I headed for the capital.

Dürnstein to Vienna (river boat)

After Krems, the scenery flattened out and the ride was relaxing. I met two Americans on board who were pleasant, but as with many of my countrymen, extremely naive. The boat ride took us through two, impressive large locks. Upon arrival at the Reichsbrücke Docks, I helped orient the guys to where they needed to go, and then I took the subway into town. My second arrival to Vienna's river port was completely different than my first from Bratislava a week earlier. It would be my last night in Austria.

On reflection, I should have skipped Krems and disembarked in Dürnstein. I could have had more time to explore. Additionally, the boat ride after Krems was both slow and uninteresting (no wonder trains put canals out of business). The train would have gotten me to Vienna far faster.

Notes:

Melk, Austria

Arrived in Melk at 6:30am to a cold drizzle. I walked down to the river through town and past the HUGE Benedictine Abbey. I walked around to kill time and finally decided to walk up the hill to the church complex. Wow! It might have been the best I had seen on the trip so far. It was so ornate - gold everywhere. A service was going on, so I couldn't explore the interior. Unfortunately, there was no time to wait as the boat would leave soon. And, just my luck, as I was running to catch the boat it poured and I got soaked (the first time on the entire trip).

Melk to Krems, Austria (riverboat)

I dried off on the mostly empty boat. I joined two Australians from Tasmania (whom I would meet again in Krems). The boat was large and nice. We departed to the music of Strauss' "Blue Danube" and were then alternately serenaded with either live accordion music or muzak featuring artists like Madonna. It was very odd.

The boat was basically intended for dinner cruises (that seemed like fun!) Although it was rainy and misty, the ride was lovely through hill country. We passed castles, monasteries, villages, and vineyards. There was one especially striking town before Krems, Dürnstein. From the boat I saw the old town, a vivid blue church tower (with entry gate from the river), sharp cliffs, and a ruined castle on the hill.

Krems, Austria

Krems' old town was pleasantly reconstructed. It was becoming hard to compare all the small towns and cities with medieval squares... Krems probably did not merit a trip of its own, but it was much better than Melk. I chatted more with the Tasmanians and then bid them farewell. I explored most of the old town (in and out of churches). Some of the old building facades were very beautiful.

I went to the train station to grab a bite (Damn Austria! On Sundays nothing is open except the train station for food). It poured (again). Thank God I was inside. I reviewed various plans to get to Vienna, but as I had lots of time on my hands, I decided to take the local train back to Dürnstein.

Dürnstein, Austria

After a short train ride, I arrived to rain. It was a great little town though. No cars in the center and very old tunnels through the old houses down to the river. The ruined castle and its walls looked amazing (even in the rain). I thought it would make a great place to stay for a night - it was so atmospheric. I was on a schedule though...

Dürnstein to Vienna, Austria (river boat)

The boat arrived. I wished I had skipped Krems and spent more time in Dürnstein. I headed toward Vienna.

June 23 (Sopron, Hungary)

The long voyage to Vienna was mostly along the flat (yet relaxing) Danube. I met two women, Jennifer and Lee, who were from Alabama and Virginia - very down to earth types (just a little naive). I helped them get oriented upon arrival in Vienna later that day at the Reichsbrücke Docks (which was a totally different experience from when I arrived from Bratislava about two weeks before). On the boat ride we passed through two locks on the river (impressive), but that added a lot of time to the journey. No wonder trains had put canals out of business!

Vienna (again)

Back at the youth hostel in Vienna I shared a room with an old Hungarian. When he found I was traveling to his country, he insisted I visit his hometown, Eger. I told him I would try - the idea actually intrigued me. In the morning I met Christian, a German from Munich who was with a couple of Argentinians. Our conversation was fascinating and upbeat.

I made my way to the all-too-familiar Südbahnhof. On the way, a Turkish newspaper vendor said to me and another American woman near me, "America, great country, bad president". I thought to myself: "Austria's president was a member of the Nazi party during the war". Why do people discuss politics with strangers? Alas, being American invites such comments all over the world.

I had to wait a long time for the train. My time in Österreich, the "Eastern Realm", was finished. Time to pass through the Iron Curtain yet again - I actually looked forward to it.

Notes:

Vienna, Austria (again)

I made my way back to the youth hostel where I shared a room with an old Hungarian guy who insisted I visit Eger (his hometown) as it was so lovely (I'll try). In the morning I met the other guy in the room, Christian from Munich. We had a very cheery conversation and he later introduced me to his travel-mates, an Argentinian couple (the husband was studying Engineering in Munich). They were all very interesting people.

Of course, it was raining (what's new?) and I trudged down to the Südbahnhof. I met a very disagreeable newspaper vendor on the way who said to me and another American girl near me, "USA good country, bad president". Meanwhile, Austrian President Kurt Waldheim was a former Nazi?

I waited a long time in the station for the train.

Vienna, Austria to Sopron, Hungary (train)

Iron Curtain (again)

I boarded a regular train to nearby Ebenforth (less than an hour) where I transferred to a one-carriage diesel. It almost looked like a trolley instead of a train. The carriage was nearly full as we chugged toward the border town of Sopron. That part of Eastern Austria is mostly rolling fields and reminded me of Pennsylvania (and Poland). When I saw the border, its name rang true, "the Iron Curtain". I was passing along a modern, fortified border . I had crossed many borders but not yet tracked beside one. I watched it snake darkly across the fields. The Great Wall of China was amazing in its own way (a true militarized border in its day), but those fences of barbed wire and guard towers I saw looked terrifying, not beautiful. The thing that struck me most was that on both sides were the same undulating fields of grain. That black barrier looked arbitrary yet held so much meaning. As I viewed one of the most defining symbols of the age, Kenny Loggins' song "Danger Zone" came onto my Walkman. Yes, "I've been to the danger zone." It was one of the most impactful moments of the trip - far more than the Berlin Wall: how random, how stupid, how completely depressing.

What was most astonishing was knowing that the border between Hungary and Austria was more porous and "flexible" than the ones to the north.

Notes:

Vienna, Austria to Sopron, Hungary (train)

First I boarded a train for Ebenforth. Then, I transferred to a little one-carriage, diesel train for Sopron. We passed through lovely rolling hills and villages - the scene reminded me of home (or Poland). The border was unmistakable when we neared it - a huge strip of barren earth that cut across the hills, forests, and farmland and a dark fence with guard towers. Yes, I was again about to enter the Warsaw Pact, but this was apparently NOT the "Iron Curtain" further north. I think I would name it the "Iron Cheesecloth" as it seemed far more porous between the two countries.

HUNGARY

June 1987

Sopron

Another nervous border crossing

The train stopped and Austrian immigration passed quickly through the train. We lurched forward, crossed the border, at Sopron station detrained, and walked to immigration. The Hungarians were waved through. The Austrians were questioned at length in German (and not very nicely). I was extremely nervous - how would I deal with an immigration interview in German I?? My visa photo did not look like my passport photo either - would that be a problem? It was my turn. I nervously gave the officer my passport. "American??" The guy broke out into a huge smile and switched to English. "Is it your first visit to Hungary?" "Yes". "Welcome, welcome!" The guy had family living in the States and then asked me where I was staying and had I eaten. Not only did he tell me where a travel agent was for money changing and looking for a room, but he also gave me the name of a good restaurant. The immigration at the Sopron border in Hungary was one of the friendliest I ever experienced!

I located a room after checking a couple of places. I was ready to explore!

Notes:

Sopron, Hungary

Customs and immigration were in Sopron Station and seemed almost like a joke. Although the guards were very serious with the Austrians, when they saw my passport they laughed and joked with me. It was very straightforward. I had been worried that my visa photo would cause a stir (it was with a moustache and I had a beard), but no comment at all. I walked to a travel agency and changed money. They had no free rooms, but they recommended two others. The next, IBUSZ (the official one), also had none. Finally, the last had something.

The room was owned by Hungarians with no English (or German), but they were super friendly. It was huge with a large bathroom, too. For $4/night I knew then and there coming to Hungary was a good decision! Given the favorable exchange rate of USD to forint, I was again rich (relatively speaking). The first thing I did was have a proper meal - the food tasted heavenly!! And, Hungary had not only a lot of food and beer, it also was famous for red wine! I ate ravenously after 10 days of "economy dieting" in Austria.

Sopron is the birthplace of Franz Liszt and they are proud of their native son with multiple plaques and monuments to him around town. Walking the streets felt surreal. Hungarians were "poor" compared to their Austrian cousins next door. How was it possible for two such disparate economies to lie next to each other? I did not feel the same heavy and oppressive vibe that I experienced farther north, though. It was more like a time-warp: Hungary continued to live in a pre-war world while Austria was in the "modern age". The little town abounded in Baroque buildings and held a lovely, small historic center. If this was going to be Hungary, wow... I loved it. I could stay wherever I wanted, the population was pro-American, and they had lots of food (and wine)! What was not to like?

After walking around the small city center, I went back to the train station to check timings. As with any other place, on arrival I needed an exit plan.

Notes:

Walking down the streets of Sopron, right on the Austrian boarder felt strange. The Austrians with so much and the Hungarians with so little - literally side by side. However, it did not feel like the "oppression" of farther north but rather of people living two completely different lifestyles (one contemporary and one pre-war). The people in the house spoke no English nor German, but were super nice. The room and bathroom were HUGE (and clean) for only $4. I immediately knew Hungary was the place for me!

I stomped around the old town and checked train timings to Szombathely and Kőszeg - perhaps even trying to visit later that day.

Food and friendship

Later in the day I stopped at a tavern for a drink. The bartender and I chatted while I tasted local wine. Enter his friend, Andre (already drunk), and we had some more drinks together. Andre spoke almost no English (nor German). He was incredibly friendly and talked a LOT, but I had no clue what he was saying: I remember learning that "Hungary" in Hungarian was Magyarország - just pronouncing it successfully felt like an accomplishment! He invited me for a full dinner at a restaurant after (I was stuffed!) and then insisted I go to his place and stay the night. I appreciated his hospitality, but I had a nice room nearby. Finally, I agreed to visit his place.

We had to take a taxi to his very strange flat where he lived with his wife and kids. The place was Japanese "small" and a complete menagerie. Bird, cats, rats, snakes.... the guy had everything. Under the disapproving stare of his wife, we drank some more. The woman was friendly to me and the kids were cute - her anger was definitely directed at her husband (for good reason!) Finally, Andre escorted me back to my room and promised to meet the following day. He wanted us to hang out for a few days. Even though I was drunk, I wondered how serious he was?

I awoke to a bad hangover, one of the worst of the whole trip. That's what I got for mixing a lot of alcohol! I had to get a move on. The problem for me now was no longer money; it was time!

I strolled around Sopron's little city center under sunny skies in the morning. At 10:00am, I went to the bar where I had met Andre. He did not show up at the appointed time (I was relieved). I assumed he overslept or forgot. At the little train station I met a Norwegian guy who had been traveling in the Eastern Bloc. He warned me that Yugoslavia was "dangerous" - he had everything stolen there. Additionally, he thought everyone was rude. I was shocked since in the East everything felt completely safe to that point. Should I reconsider travel to Yugoslavia? Rude people? China flashed into my mind. After a month of meeting mostly friendly people, I wasn't sure I was ready for a return to unpleasant ones.

Soon I was on the train to Kőszeg, another border town that looked interesting.

Notes:

It is important, however, to describe the events of later that day/evening:

After walking around the old town (pleasant, not fantastic, but worlds better than similar in the West overrun by tourists), I stopped in a bar and talked with the bartender while tasting some local wine. Enter his friend, Andre (already a little drunk - well, so was I). He did speak some English (poorly). We talked and talked and he insisted I sleep at his house that night. I told him no (I already had a room and it was nearby - and nice!) We discussed many many things (he did most of the talking and I barely understood). After the bar, we went out for an excellent dinner. He finally convinced me to SEE his house so we went by taxi to a bizarre flat; the size was like those I had seen in Japan (quite small). It was a menagerie of rats, snakes, hamsters, cats, birds, and lord only knows what else. His wife and child were there and were extremely pleasant. Of course, I met all of the animals. Finally, he returned me to my room by taxi and insisted I stay with him for a few days. I promised to meet him again the following morning. Would it really happen? Was he that drunk?

UGH. I awoke to a hangover! It is the first bad one of the trip (perhaps?). Anyway, I can't remember the last time I drank so much and mixed alcohol.

I would find out about Andre later, but I have to leave Sopron. Now my problem is not money, it is time!

June 23 (Hotel, Kőszeg, Hungary)

The weather was great today, so I strolled around Sopron killing time. Andre didn't come to the bar where we met by 10:00am, so I assumed he forgot (or didn't wake up). I didn't wait... the train was leaving. At the station I met a Norwegian who had EVERYTHING stolen from him in Yugoslavia. Makes me think twice about going there. And, he said the people were rude - back to China for me?

Sopron - Kőszeg (train)

The rails passed through rolling hills and farmland. On tracks built during the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, the route passed in and out of Austria (and the Iron Curtain). The journey reminded me of how sad the situation was. In the hard-to-pronounce city of Szombathely I made a tight connection. A policeman checked my passport (and laughed as he handed it back). The man next to me said, "don't worry". That was the first time I had been asked for my passport on the entire trip. I didn't find it menacing, just strange.

Notes:

Sopron - Kőszeg, Hungary (train)

On the train, I relaxed and watched the undulating farmland roll by. Just out of Sopron, the tracks go in and out of Austria, closely following the border. For such a peaceful land, it is a reminder of reality - very sad. The change at Szombathely (pron: som bah tai) was just in time. Then a policeman checked my passport (and laughed) - the man next to me said, "don't worry". I wasn't disturbing, just unusual.

Kőszeg

As with Sopron, I found everyone in Kőszeg helpful on arrival. I got information on rooms and started to plan my onward journey to Lake Balaton. I changed a traveler's check and only converted half to forint. Luckily, the Norwegian I met (who was exiting) gave me his remaining forint (they were non-convertible). My store of hard currency was low, but with Hungary (and hopefully Yugoslavia) so cheap, I remained confident I could make it to Athens. I am astonished how brave I was traveling with so little money and no contingency plan.

After such a great time in Sopron and knowing almost nothing about Hungary except the capital city (and about some very large caves somewhere in the east), I wandered. The city was even quieter than Sopron. The castle/museum was a disappointment, but I still enjoyed the walkabout. In fact, Kőszeg had a very important place in Hungarian (and regional) history:

Croat and German soldiers repelled an Ottoman force numbering over 100,000 soldiers in the Siege of Kőszeg. After the final unsuccessful attack, the Turkish leadership were forced to decamp due to an uprising by the Janissaries. According to tradition, the last contingent of withdrawing troops were meant to have left the city limits around 11 o'clock. As a memorial to this historic heroism, the church clocks in the town have read 11 o'clock since 1777.

(Wikipedia)

While having forgotten much of Kőszeg, I do remember that all the church clocks were frozen at 11am (which led to some confusion). The locals were quite proud of their history repelling the Ottomans.

I bought onward tickets to Lake Balaton at the train station after which I returned to the travel agent to find them closed (but still in the office). After some unpleasantness (mainly due to my lack of understanding), they gave me directions to the hotel hastily. With difficulty, I found it. At least it offered a wonderful view from its peaceful hilltop setting.

Notes:

Kőszeg, Hungary

As per earlier experience in Kőszeg everyone was very friendly; they helped me find a room and plan my travel to Lake Balaton. The old town was even quieter than Sopron. I had a delicious goulash lunch. Hungarian beer leaves a bit to be desired (perhaps I will stick to wine - delicious!). The castle museum was a waste, but it is a nice town to relax. I changed a traveler's check - half to USD and half to forint. The woman was nice about doing that for me and warned me I probably could not do the same in Budapest. So, I had lots of forint. The Norwegian guy gave me 300 as well (he was leaving). I can really relax in Hungary. I still have about $260 in hard currency. It should be enough to get me across Yugoslavia and to Athens (I hope!)

I bought my train tickets for the next day and went back to the travel office to find it was closed at 4:30pm (not 5:30pm). They were irate with me and a policeman was there. It was all ok after I apologized (I didn't really understand what was happening). They hastily gave me directions to the hotel, so I ended up getting off at the wrong stop and had to walk 30 minutes with my backpack - shit. The hotel/hostel is on a small mountain overlooking the city. It was so quiet and relaxing.

Kőszeg - Balatonfüred (train, bus)

The following morning I was sent to the train station with a minder, not from the government, but from the hotel to make sure I got off at the right stop. She did her job. Soon I was back in Szombathely, whose orthography is wildly different from its pronunciation. At the station, I met a group of Americans who were just as clueless as me about which train to board. Luckily, a Hungarian-American showed up and helped us. We all got on the train - I was getting off at Vezprem; the others were headed to Budapest. The scenery was one of beautiful rolling hills interrupted by outcrops that looked like mountain vestiges - the ride was pleasant.

In Vezprem I went to the post office (the only official looking building) and asked directions to Balatonfüred. I was pointed to the bus terminal (bus was faster and more direct than the train). I found it easily and boarded a long-distance bus departing immediately! After a ride through some more rolling hills, I was in Balatonfüred, the main town on the lake.

Notes:

Kőszeg - Balatonfüred, Hungary (train, bus)

June 25 (Youth Hostel, Balatonfüred, Hungary)

I rode to Kőszeg Station with an old lady who was to watch after me (she did). Soon I was in Szombathely where I met a group of Americans who also didn't know what train to board. Luckily, one guy was Hungarian-American, so we were all finally aboard the correct one. The ride to Veszprem was through rolling hills - lovely to watch them pass by. Occasionally, there was a small stub of what might have once been a mountain. In Veszprem I asked directions in the Post Office and was told to go to the bus terminal by local bus (easy) and then I caught a long-distance bus departing immediately for Balatonfüred, which dropped me at the train station.

LAKE BALATON

Tihany, Lake Balaton

I easily located IBUSZ (the state travel agency) and they quoted me ridiculous prices for hotels (Lake Balaton is a resort area and it was peak summer travel). I insisted I needed something cheaper and finally they came through. Staying in Tihany, a well-known, small town across the lake, was simply out of the question, so I ended up in a youth hostel near Balatonfüred on the lake. The manager on duty, Istvan, was extremely helpful and accommodating. The guy worked there part-time for extra cash - he was a Psychology Professor. He helped me find a rental bike for the next day and even scored a "larger" breakfast for me. Hungarians continued to come through as amazingly wonderful people.

The walk from the train station to the hostel was far and I felt tired. In the room I rested and then changed into shorts. It was the first hot day of the trip in a very long time - since China perhaps? Istvan took me to the local supermarket to find a cheap lunch (indeed he was right) and then I explored the nearby lakefront. In one park people were sunbathing, fishing, or doing a combination of the two. The main attraction of the lake was Tihany, so I got on a nearby ferry for the short ride across the lake.

Lake Balaton was restful and bucolic, and I immediately realized I was in a place where people from Budapest (and Vienna) came to sit and do nothing but relax. Although there were no complaints from me about being propelled into summer in only one day, I was in "do and see" mode not "sit and chill". I did not need a vacation within my travels.

Tihany

Tihany lies on a peninsula sticking into the lake and is one of the oldest settlements. The village sits on a bluff overlooking everything. If Hungary has a riviera, Tihany is it.

On the shores of Lake Balaton stands the former summer residence of the Habsburg imperial family, which remained in the private ownership of the family until the end of the Second World War. It was since used as a hotel, but is now in private hands and not accessible to the public. Tihany's inhabitants have the highest per capita income, and the village has the highest housing prices in the whole of Hungary.

(Wikipedia)

Tihany at least has a long history and was more than a bunch of hotels on the lake. The town still has thatched-roof homes and, although touristy for Hungary, was very scenic. I wandered, took photos, and then stumbled upon a winery. After some delicious tastings I took the ferry back across the lake and went to bed very early. Lake Balaton was surprisingly beautiful - I could see why people wanted to relax there.

The following morning was cloudy and cooler, but I stuck with the plan to bike around part of the lake. The road follows the lakeshore passing by hotels and small villas. Some of the lake edge remains wetland (very nice). I continued to the Tihany car ferry, Tihany Rév, where I could see the other part of the lake - it looked vast. I relaxed lakeside for a bit and then returned to the train station restaurant for some cheap and delicious food. The waitress was exceptionally nice when she realized I couldn't actually speak German - ha! The skies opened (during lunch, thank God). I bought my onward tickets to Budapest for the following morning. I got on the "slow" train - even so, it was only a 2.5 hour ride. The rain let up and I returned to the hostel where I met two Austrians who had just arrived.

I found Franz and Kurt lounging on deck chairs sunning themselves. It was time to start speaking German I again. Luckily, they spoke some English, too. They were from Ybbs and worked in Melk. When I told them I had done the Wachau Valley and visited Melk, they were pleased. Although nice enough, Franz and Kurt were apparently terrified of the huge "gay" population of Lake Balaton and warned me to keep my wits about me. I was laughing so hard internally I could barely continue talking to them. Lake Balaton was the hot gay scene of Hungary? I must have missed it entirely. We ended up playing bi-lingual scrabble (both English and German words accepted) - that was a lot of fun.

Love you, hate your neighbor

If there was one thing I learned on the trip through Eastern Europe, it was that everyone wanted to hear that their own country was great but the neighboring countries, just awful. In Ukraine, "oh my God the Russians...."' in Poland, "Oh my God, those Ukrainians..."; and so on. I had just been all over Austria. I honestly did like Austria and people had generally been nice (but not nearly as nice as Hungarians). When the Austrian guys started complaining about Hungary and the Hungarians, |I just joined in the refrain ...."Oh my God, Austria was so much better...." How odd as a method to get someone to like you quickly: just say how much you disliked another place. It worked like a charm - every time. I doubt I would do it now as an older adult, but as a young person trying to fit in and get by, it was a strange strategy that worked. At least I tried to diss the countries rather than the people (except for China). In the end, I understood why Europeans always fought - they all secretly hated each other.

The next morning I awoke to sunny and hot weather. I bid Istvan goodbye and walked back to the train station. Travel in summer is great, but being burdened with a large backpack, the journey felt hot above everything else. I arrived at the station and boarded the train to Budapest.

Notes:

Lake Balaton, Hungary

I immediately found IBUSZ who at first said I had to pay about 500 forint per night (it was a resort area), but after a few protestations on my part, they searched for something cheaper. They looked at every cheap place they knew. My first choice, Tihany, was out of the question as it was very touristy. I finally was booked into a youth hostel where I was adopted by Istvan, a Hungarian psychology teacher and part-timer at the hostel. He helped me with everything. I even asked for a larger breakfast and got one! He helped me find a bicycle for the next day, too! Again, I was finding most Hungarians to be too kind to be true.

After that long walk from the station to the hostel, I relaxed. Istvan then took me to the local supermarket so I could get a cheap lunch (it was!) Finally, I changed into shorts! It was the first hot day since.... when? I walked along the lakefront. There was a beautiful park by the docks with lots of people fishing or sunbathing (some both!). It felt so "summery" and relaxed. I took the ferry across the lake to Tihany (pron: Tee han).

I explored the old village with real thatched-roof homes. It was beautiful (and touristy - for Hungary), and I completely enjoyed it. The town sits on a high bluff on a peninsula in the lake. Although it rained a bit in the afternoon, it wasn't too bad. I stopped by a winekeller on the way back to the hostel. I slept very early!

It was one of the nicest days (weatherwise) since I've been in Europe!

(to be continued)

June 26 (Youth Hostel, Balatonfüred, Hungary)

A cloudy morning and much cooler, but I carried out the plan to use the bike. Istvan gave me a map, directions, and some suggestions for lunch. I set off.

After leaving Balatonfüred, the road follows the lakeshore closely. A few areas are swampy with many reeds yet are very tranquil compared to the more developed parts nearby. I rode to the end of the peninsula where the car ferry crosses to the other side, Tihany rév. Not much there, but I saw the other half of the lake (much larger). I sat in a park and relaxed. For lunch I came back to the old train station restaurant and it was pleasantly cheap and delicious. The waitress was a gem, especially when she found out I couldn't really speak German that well!

While having lunch it poured. Luckily, it let up by the time I was ready to leave. I bought my train tickets for Budapest (9:40am - slow train), but it's only 2.5 hours anyway. I returned the bike to the hostel and met two very cute Austrian guys, Franz and Kurt. We spoke a mixture of English and German (we managed to communicate). They were from Ybbs and worked in Melk. They were very happy to hear I had done the Danube Riverboat. We talked and had a few beers. Then we played bilingual scrabble (a real hoot!)

The next day the weather cleared up and Istvan said the forecast was "sunny and hot" (the morning was certainly sunny!). I do love summer, but when traveling with a big pack, slightly cooler weather is better.

Budapest

St. Matthew's Cathedral

Fisherman's Bastion

The train from Lake Balaton followed the lake for the first part of the journey and was pleasant. After that the rails cut through a swamp and some farmland. Soon enough we were in Budapest.

At Budapest's South Station I managed to book a room, but I could only enter later as it was still morning. I bought my onward ticket to Beograd and changed a little more money. Then I set out to explore the city until the room was available. Budapest appeared greener than other cities I had visited. Many people had homes with yards and gardens even in the center. The city was surprisingly non-urban. I walked to Margaret Island, Budapest's version of Central Park, a long, narrow island in the Danube. The place was beautiful, filled with trees and gardens. There are even Roman bath ruins. People were sunbathing everywhere.

I would be lying if I said I immediately fell in love with Budapest. Maybe big European city fatigue was finally settling in after all I had seen? Budapest was not as gray and dull as Warsaw, not as old and beautiful as Prague, and certainly nothing like Disneyesque Vienna. I liked Budapest because it was cheap with some specific locations that were spectacular, but it was not one of the cities I talked about upon my return to the USA. There was nothing bad about it, but nothing that blew me away either.

I returned to the room and found it was owned by a midget and his family. Although they were kind, their behavior was strange. They seemed secretive about everything yet gave me the third degree about my comings, goings, and plans. I brushed it off, but still found it odd. Back at the station I ate (cheap, good food) and then walked to Buda's Castle Hill. I found it similar to Prague's and, although the one in Prague was "better", the one in Buda felt more human and lived in. The Fisherman's Bastion with its view over the river and city was lovely. I loved that Budapest's main cathedral was "St Matthew's" - the first of the trip! I felt tired (it was sunny and hot), so I returned to the station to get my bag. I came back to the room satisfied I had seen a lot on that first day and fell into a well-earned sleep.

The next morning I woke to make the highly-touted day trip along the Danube Bend above Budapest.

Notes:

Budapest

June 27 (Budapest, Hungary)

The train to Budapest was pleasant - much of the time lakeside - after that fields and a swampy area. I arrived in my next big city.

Budapest appeared far less urban than I expected - many trees and homes with yards. In the South Station (Déli), I booked a room and bought my onward tickets south to Beograd. After that (and changing a bit more money), I went for a long walk to Margaret Island. The place was lovely, forested, had a rose garden, and even contained Roman-era ruins (baths). There were sun bathers everywhere. I tried a soft-pretzel-like food and it tasted awful! Having walked the length of the island, I returned to find my apartment for the next three days. It is occupied by a midget and his wife. They were very very odd - clandestine about everything and then always giving me the third-degree (where are you going? what time will you return? Will it be very late?) However, at heart they were also kind - just strangely off-putting.

I returned to the station to eat (cafeteria food - not bad). Then I walked around the old part of Buda (inside the walls). As it was late, there were no people and it was pleasant. It reminded me of Prague's Castle Hill, although I found it to feel more friendly. Prague is, of course, superb, but that part of Budapest felt more "human". I retrieved my bag at the station and went to the room to sleep.

I actually felt surprised that I had accomplished so much in one day (and the weather was just great - hot and sunny!)

(to be continued)

Danube Bend

Szentendre

Visegrád

Esztergom

If my memories of Budapest are not as strong as other cities, those of "the Danube Bend" are. The day-trip out of Budapest was a visit to Szentendre, Visegrád, and Esztergom by boat and rail. Since the Wachau Valley in Austria had been pleasant I figured another Danube cruise (my third of the trip) would be worth it. The last one turned out to be the best!

I woke to a chill morning and dressed for it. As it turned out, the day was hot and sunny. No complaints except I was overdressed.

Szentendre

I took the commuter rail line to old Danube town of Szentendre, touted as an artists' colony north of Budapest. I have to say, although mildly pleasant it was not what it was built up to be. For the Eastern Bloc it might have been quite amazing and anyone coming from other Warsaw Pact nations probably was greatly entertained. However, having just come over from Austria I was unimpressed. Fortunately, many studios featured ceramics - one of my favorite folk arts. The town was nice enough to have a short walkabout. I left just as the day tourist crowds arrived and boarded a bus headed upriver to Visegrád.

Visegrád

The bus stop was under a small mountain located at the point where the river sharply turns south toward Budapest The castle ruins looked impressive and are mostly in ruin. In its glory days, it must have been imposing. I followed a "path" which soon became indistinct and eventually disappeared. I slipped and slid my way up the side of the small mountain. I managed to reach the top hot and sweaty (with my morning jacket!). Even if the castle remains weren't much to look at, it was the best view of the Danube I had encountered to that time. The castle was certainly strategic, and whoever lived there would have had a room with a view! I found the "correct" pathway down and passed through the palace ruins. Not much remained, but the place must have been huge in its day.

At the base I felt famished after the climb and snacked on a delicious hamburger made with seasoned meat. It reminded me of my neighbor Mrs. Lukas' hamburgers when I was a kid - they were so tasty and I always wondered why American burgers couldn't be as good!

No dilly-dallying allowed, I needed to board the bus again to Ezstergom upriver.

Esztergom

In a repeat of Melk Monastery in Austria, the Esztergom Church rises on the bank of the Danube imposingly. I got off the bus and walked up to the church, the largest in Hungary. The inside was imposing and austere. I saw a wedding ceremony taking place. A long, stone, spiral staircase took me to the top of the church for sweeping views of the river and Czechoslovakia across the river.

Esztergom was the capital of Hungary from the 10th till the mid-13th century when King Béla IV of Hungary moved the royal seat to Buda. Esztergom is the seat of the prímás of the Roman Catholic Church in Hungary, and the former seat of the Constitutional Court of Hungary. The city has a Christian Museum with the largest ecclesiastical collection in Hungary. Its cathedral, Esztergom Basilica, is the largest church in Hungary.

(Wikipedia)

I felt rushed at the church because I needed to buy the boat ticket back to Budapest (the whole point of the trip). I rushed down to the river to buy the ticket and found I had an hour to spare. I returned to the lovely old town right by the palace ruins and ordered a delicious meal. I wolved it down, worried about missing the boat (I felt bad about not enjoying such delicious food and missing out on the palace ruins). I rushed back to the dock to find the boat was an hour late - ugh.

Notes:

June 28 (Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest, Hungary)

The morning felt chilly so I dressed warmly for my journey on the "Danube Bend". Unfortunately (and fortunately), it got hot and sunny so I was overdressed most of the day.

 Szentendre, Hungary

The first stop, only 30 minutes by commuter train, was Szentendre. The town was completely touristy, yet also unique as it is also a very old settlement along the Danube that has been converted into an arts center (especially ceramics). The gallery of Margaret Kovacs was very enjoyable, filled with very bizarre creations (but quite nice). I managed to have a good look around the town before the day tourists arrived.

Visegrád, Hungary

I escaped by bus to Visegrád. That turned into a complete "adventure". The place is the site of a ruined fortress and palace set amongst the low mountains of the Danube Bend. It sits exactly where the river turns south on its journey toward the Black Sea. The structure looked more English than Hungarian in my mind. I got off the bus, found a road, and then entered a trail. The trail wasn't well-marked and soon I found myself slipping and sliding in the mud climbing the side of a small mountain. I reached the top and felt awful - hot, thirsty, and dirty. However, the views were incredible. The castle remains weren't much to see (nor the museum), but the best part was just being there, overlooking the river, and soaking in the view. I returned via the "correct" path to the city and stopped at the old palace ruins on the way. They were also not that interesting but were large. It must have been some palace in its day.

I grabbed a hamburger at the bottom (delicious!)

Esztergom, Hungary

I hopped the bus again to Esztergom whose claim to fame is holding the largest church in Hungary. It is HUGE. Nicely positioned on a hill overlooking the Danube and Czechoslovakia (across the river), the area also has a ruined palace and an "old town". However, all things pale in comparison to the massive basilica. I entered and saw a wedding in progress. The interior is austere. A long, spiral staircase inside leads to the roof giving a superb view of the countryside. It was a long, hot climb. I didn't spend much time as I had to buy my boat ticket back to Budapest.

I hurried down to the river dock and bought my ticket. There was still an hour before departure so I headed into the old town. I hurriedly ate a delicious meal in an old tavern located below the palace ruins. I rushed back to the dock to find the boat was an HOUR late (ugh)!

Eszetergom - Budapest, Hungary (boat)

Finally on the boat, I met David and his cousin Erid. David was American whose parents immigrated from Hungary. He was in Budapest to "learn Hungarian" staying with family. We shared some beer onboard and talked a lot about Hungary. Meanwhile, the boat passed through a thunderstorm; then the weather went back to hot and sunny. The entire trip remains my best journey along the Danube and, with the exception of visiting its source with MAP, my best memory of that river.

Back in Budapest, David and I agreed to meet the next day in the late afternoon.

Notes:

Esztergom - Budapest, Hungary (boat)

Finally on the boat, I met an American, David, whose parents were Hungarian - nice guy to talk with. He was accompanied by his cousin, Erid. We talked a lot about Hungary. David came to learn Hungarian, so he's staying with relatives. The weather went from hot and sunny to a thunderstorm and then back to hot and sunny. We shared a few beers on the boat and promised to meet up the next day in the late afternoon - that should be fun.

Budapest (continued)

Buda view

Parliament

Budapest Public Baths

The next day I awoke and re-arranged my bag. That morning I spoke with the woman of the house and her son. They were very curious about the other Eastern Bloc countries I had traveled to know how Hungary compared. I told them honestly that Hungary was likely the best on the trip since I had freedom to travel and book hotel rooms, food and drink were abundant and cheap, and train tickets were easily purchased. They appeared so nervous to me - which in itself was unnerving.

At Keleti Station I purchased tickets west to Miskolc for the next day. After that I explored downtown Pest, the city's thriving commercial district. It was modern, not some medieval relic, and held a lot of pleasant parks and public spaces. From the banks of the river I took in beautiful views of the castle hill and the parliament building. I hopped the subway to City Park and nearby Heroes' Square. That plaza was flanked by impressive neo-classical buildings and at its center stood a large column with a colonnade. It looked very "Soviet" in design. Within City Park was a small palace next to a small pond. The nearby public bath building looked more like a palace than the actual one in the park! I had to admit that the city boasted some incredibly beautiful and livable outdoor spaces.

After crossing the river, I climbed the castle hill one more time to have a peek inside St Matthew's (previously closed). After that, I relaxed and took in the view. Budapest was not blowing me away with things to "see", but it certainly was a wonderful place to relax. I went to a local park where David had directed to meet. That place looked genuine for watching true Budapesters live their lives. Hungary had a much better quality of life than any of the socialist countries to its north and east in those days.

Finally, David and Erid showed up having just returned from Szentendre. We went to David's aunt and uncle's house in the suburbs. Their place was old, but comfortable. They were, of course, incredibly gracious and kind. David and I left again for the city to have dinner. I liked talking to David since, although American, he had a much wider worldview than most. We found a place that was expensive even by Hungarian standards - I really didn't want to change even more money into forint, but there was live music and the food and wine were superb. We wandered town after dinner and ended up in Pest where we had a last drink (I had Gösser, my favorite Austrian beer). We made an all-too-familiar "subway goodbye" and I continued to my room in Buda. I had to have the bag ready for an early departure the next morning.

The next morning the woman of the house tried to sell me some of her hand-made crafts before I left. Not only did I find them tacky, but I also did not need to add more to my burgeoning pack. I rode the subway one last time, ticketless. I couldn't figure out how to buy a ticket the entire time in Budapest and everyone told me that the fine was so small (for me), it was better just to ride "rogue". No one ever asked for a ticket - I was lucky, I guess. At the station, I checked my bag (I wasn't carrying everything for my short trip to western Hungary) and entered the main waiting room. It was filled with sleeping travelers reminding me of summer trips to Hokkaido, Japan where young people slept rough in the train stations to save on expensive hotels.

Soon I boarded the train west.

Thoughts on Budapest: The Széchenyi Chain Bridge across the Danube with the Hungarian Parliament behind it is beautiful. St Matthews was the ONLY cathedral I had come across in Europe in a capital city for my namesake saint (and it was beautiful). The old castle and the Fisherman's Bastion overlooking the city were stunning. "Pest" and its former Jewish quarter held haunting reminders of the past. All of that should have been more "wow". Why Budapest didn't leave a stronger memory imprint with me is odd because back in the US I sang the praises of Hungary for months afterward as being one of the best countries I had visited (along with Poland).

Traveler's fatigue, fading memories, too much similarity to other places I visited.... whatever the case, Budapest is not a place of which I told many stories. Had I stayed longer at my job in Iraq with its regular flights to Vienna from Erbil, Budapest was on my radar to revisit for a week and re-explore. Like many places, the memories simply don't come flooding back.

Notes:

The following day was beautiful from the start. After I re-arranged my pack, I talked with the lady of the house and her son. In the Eastern Block everyone wants to know about the other eastern countries and how they compare (and hear theirs is the best). In the case of Hungary, it just about is the best! The woman and her son were still quite odd - they appeared nervous all the time. I couldn't figure it out.

I went Keleti Station and got my ticket for the next day (as well as more information). I explored downtown Pest's shopping area - nice, but modern. However, there were parks and fountains which made it pleasant. I walked along the bank of the river which gave an excellent view of Buda Castle. I continued and saw the Parliament and then rode the subway to the City Park where I entered the large Heroes' Square, flanked by neo-classical buildings and holding a huge column and colonnade at the center. It appeared "Soviet" to me. The park's castle was very lovely, set on a small pond among some trees. The huge public baths looked more like a palace than the actual palace in the park! Budapest certainly has beautiful outdoor spaces.

I stopped by the opera, but found a woefully small building as compared to the one in Vienna or the Bolshoi in Moscow. After that, I walked back up the old castle hill to get a look inside St Matthew's Cathedral (previously closed) and to relax. For me, the best part of visiting Budapest was relaxing!

June 29 (Aggtelek, Hungary)

I strolled around a real people's park in Budapest before meeting David. It was nice to be in a non-tourist place and watch local people enjoying themselves. Later, I met David and Erid; they had just returned from Szentendre. We all went back to Erid's place (David's uncle and aunt) so they could change. I was welcomed warmly - very sweet people. They lived in true Budapest suburb, a little old, but very livable. Of course, they were unfailingly kind. Soon, David and I were off for dinner and drinks. He was a nice guy to talk to - very American, yet quite open on many topics. We found a place and it was expensive even by Hungarian standards. I was running out of forint and didn't want to change money again before leaving. But... there was live music and the food and wine were excellent. We strolled down by an old basilica and then finally into downtown Pest to have a last drink. I found a Gosser beer bar (that was one thing I liked in Austria). Our parting was a "subway goodbye" and I went back to the apartment in Buda. I prepared my stuff for the onward journey - I had an early departure.

I managed to wake up early and then the lady of the house tried to sell me some of her hand-made (tacky) crafts one last time before I left. Needless to say at 6:30am I am not in a "buying mood"... I checked my bags at the station after another ticketless ride on the subway (I couldn't figure out how to buy tickets). I was told if I was caught it would be bad, but I was also told that the fine was so small as to be laughable.

The waiting room was filled with sleeping travelers. It kind of reminded me of summer in Hokkaido back in Japan. The train stations were always filled with travelers sleeping rough.

Aggtelek

Baradla Caves, Aggtelek

The train ride was several hours passing through farmland and rolling hills - definitely the flattest landscape I had seen since Ukraine. I hurriedly got on a connecting train for a short ride and then took a bus. Thank God Hungarians were so kind and helpful! The final bus ride provided insight into rural villages and daily life in that region. People were poor but not ragged.

I found a hostel with incredibly friendly reception. They explained everything about visiting the nearby famous cave system. Although the hostel was cheap, the cave entry was surprisingly expensive. Somewhere in my travels I learned that there are magnificent caves in northeastern Hungary by the border with Slovakia. I have no idea why I went - maybe because it was so far "out of the way"? The cave system is one of the largest in Europe stretching across the border. I got on a tour (in Hungarian), but as it was a cave - I didn't need to understand that much. The larger rooms and rock formations were wonderful. One was actually a concert hall where a short piece of classical music was played - the acoustics were haunting. Since I had seen caves in the USA, Japan, and China by that point, I must admit to being underwhelmed. I felt more satisfied making it to a part of Hungary that hardly any tourists (other than locals) visited. Unfortunately that adventure resides in the same part of my brain that holds the memories of Budapest - vague recollections and not much else.

At a minimum the entire setting was rural and calming (which I appreciated). I was already getting nervous about making it back to Budapest in time to have a good meal before taking the train to Yugoslavia.

In the early evening I climbed a rock face to view the border with Czechoslovakia - rolling hills and farm country. I even walked to the actual border which consisted of a low-key toll gate. Between some Eastern Bloc countries the borders were lax (but not all). I watched the slow and lazy sunset where I met a couple of Hungarian-Australians, Olga and Martin. Olga was originally from Yugoslavia and Martin from Hungary. They were on a trip to Hungary with their kids (who were 100% English-speaking with only a little Hungarian). We talked a lot and later met again at a slide show on Aggtelek National Park which their son Andrew explained to me. It felt rare to meet an entire family of travelers who were interesting.

I had a good sleep that night. It had been a full day.

Notes:

Aggtelek, Hungary

The train to Miskolc was typical - we passed through a lot of farmland and rolling hills. It was very nearly pancake flat. As usual, I barely got on the connecting train, then hopped a bus, and I was at the famous caves in the area! It is so much easier to travel when people are kind.

The small mountains and caves were nice. The bus ride gave me some good looks at very rural villages and their inhabitants. People were very poor, but not ragged. The hostel was cheap, but the cave tour, pricey. The front desk reception (as usual) was super friendly and helpful. The cave tour-guide was very kind and gave a the chance for one man to interpret the Hungarian into (not sure?) after each spiele. The cave started out dull, but the main rooms were great. In some places it was navigable by boat and it held a huge concert hall. The lights were dimmed and we heard a short selection of classical music. Even though it was still "just a cave", it was worth the effort to get there. The whole area was so calm.

My main concern is only making it back to Budapest and having a good meal before the train to Beograd.

July 2 (Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade, Yugoslavia)

In the evening after seeing the caves, I climbed a steep rock face for a fine view over the rolling hills and farm country on the Czech-Hungarian border. I walked to the border to find it unremarkable except for the inspection toll-gate. I guess between Eastern Block countries, there is not that much concern about invasion. The sunset was slow and lazy. As I watched, I met Olga and Martin (and their kids Andrew and Martin, Jr.). They were visiting from Australia. Olga had immigrated from Yugoslavia and Martin from Hungary. Their kids spoke some Hungarian, but they were mostly Aussie. We spoke a lot and later met again at a slide show on the national park where the caves are located. Andrew explained the the highlights (it was in Hungarian). It was pleasant to meet a traveling family where both kids and parents are interesting!

Aggtelek to Eger (bus, train, bus)

I woke very early to catch the morning bus to the train station only to find it departed from the town center - the hostel was 2km away. I was angry because the next bus was nearly three hours later. I walked to town and for the first in a long time felt "bored". The village, however, was nice. I watched people shopping from a traveling vendor with a cart. I didn't even know such traditions still existed in Europe. I was mainly focused on getting to Eger with enough time to explore it.

Finally, someone helped me get on the right bus to the train station. I boarded the train to Miskolc but on arrival could not find the bus station (it was much faster to take the bus to Eger). I asked a bus driver who kindly put me on his empty bus and drove me to the correct stop and pointed out the bus to me. Hungarian kindness never ceased to amaze!

Notes:

In the morning I hurried out to catch the 7:40am bus only to find that I had been given incorrect information. It departed from the center of town and I was 2km outside! I was livid. So, I walked to town and waited almost three hours for the next bus. For a change, I felt bored waiting... The village was quite nice and I saw people doing some shopping with a traveling vendor. Really I was just focused on getting to Eger.

Aggtelek to Eger, Hungary (bus, train)

Finally, a nice guy helped me get on the right bus and then I boarded the train for Miskolc. From there I planned to take the bus to Eger, but I couldn't figure out how to find the bus station. I asked a bus driver, who drove me there with his bus (not on his route) and pointed me to the correct bus. Once again, Hungary just never ceased to amaze me with its kind people.

Eger

Castle, Eger

The bus ride was through wine country, and I arrived in Eger later than planned feeling a little "lost". The town was recommended in travel guides AND by that hostel-mate back in Vienna (who insisted I visit). Western Hungary was a hot and dusty place, nothing like the green east around Lake Balaton. It fully felt like a different country. Eger is known for its castle, but more importantly for its Egri Bikavér, or "Bulls Blood" wine served conveniently in pubs throughout the city. The best part was that said wine was "on tap" in big casks (a first for me). Since I was in Hungary with consistently good food and ran into some very good wine - I was in seventh heaven. What was equally interesting was that Eger has a lot of history. Occupied by the Ottomans with vestiges of their rule splashed around the city, it boasts a great castle, and a lot of historic buildings - but what I remember was the basement pub under the cathedral with red wine on tap and delicious Hungarian food. The city's setting amongst hills and vineyards made for a relaxing stop before my onward journey into Yugoslavia.

The exact date of the emergence of Egri Bikavér is unknown. One thing is certain; the word Bikavér (bull's blood) was recorded as early as the beginning of the 19th century. Under the name Bikavér, full-bodied red wines were sold, not only in Eger and Szekszárd but other places as well. Legends grew up around the name, which tied it to the 1552 siege of Eger as related by Gárdonyi Géza. In its present form, also accepted by the public, Egri Bikavér is associated with the name of Grőber Jenő, Eger vigneron. Sugár István (1981) writes: 'I have searched different sources for the composition of grape types constituting bull's blood. The earliest record dates back to 1912, when, in addition to kadarka, I have found blue frank, cabernet and merlot'.

(Wikipedia)

I had to change more money (which I was avoiding since I was leaving Hungary soon and didn't want to be stuck with too many forint). I found the timing of the last train to Budapest. At least I had a few hours to enjoy the small city, but as usual it felt rushed. The castle and old town were free of foreign tourists. I felt like I was in "the real Hungary". I ate (and drank) too much, so I felt nauseous on the way back to Budapest.

Notes:

Eger, Hungary

I arrived in Eger and after some initial disorientation, I changed more money (didn't want to, but no choice). I asked about the last train to Budapest. Then I treated myself to a huge meal below Eger Cathedral. Eger was not the most fantastic city I visited, but it was very nice sitting among its hills and vineyards in the Bükk Mountains. The ride from Miscolc had been pleasant through that "mini wine country". Eger's famous red wine (Bulls Blood) tastes great!

I saw the old castle and walked the old part of town. It was not spectacular, but the mood of the place was laid back. I wished I didn't have to rush through it all (which I literally did). Unfortunately, I overate (and drank), so I felt kind of sick on the return ride to Budapest.

Budapest (again)

Back in Budapest I collected my bag and waited inside the West Station for the train to Beograd. I happened to meet some AIESEC students and we chatted for a time. That was one of the study abroad programs when I was at Georgetown. I also ran into a few other foreigners who were on the same train to Beograd. That comforted me since I often felt I was the only foreigner on some of the cross-border trains. Even if they weren't in my carriage, I was relieved I wasn't the only Western tourist doing the border crossing.

train station charity

As was frequently the case in the Eastern Bloc, because the dollar exchanged so well, upon leaving I had a lot of excess cash. It was not convertible even in the next country (a sad reminder of just how fake all those economies were - it was hard currency or nothing). I seriously had a lot of forint (but it wouldn't have amounted to many dollars, maybe $10). In the railway station just before getting on the train, I surveyed the crowd and spotted a hunched over old woman, gave her all my excess cash, and then sprinted onto the train. It was no loss to me - perhaps it helped her.

I was sure she told the story for weeks after about some strange young man that just handed her a bunch of money and jumped onto a train. Thinking of the story in reverse was actually quite funny.

Notes:

Budapest, Hungary (again)

Back in Budapest, I collected my things and waited at Nyugati Station (West Station) where I met a bunch of AISEC students and we talked. I found a Canadian, a Swede, and a Belgian on their way to Beograd, too. Although we did not ride together, it was comforting to know I wasn't the only Westerner on the train (as I had been many times before).

Budapest, Hungary - Beograd, Yugoslavia (train)

I had scored first-class tickets (yay) on the night train to Beograd but found that seats did not fold together as they did on other trains, so it was a long, uncomfortable ride anyway. Since the border crossing was at 3:30am, I was not planning on much sleep. I hated going through immigration groggy and out of it.

At the border I had to detrain to get a visa stamp (no visa-in-advance was needed for Americans visiting Yugoslavia). In front of me, a group of Greeks were facing difficulties and I became nervous. Luckily, I got the stamp easily and hassle free - I had been very lucky at immigration throughout the trip. At the Yugoslav border town, Subotica, the train filled up completely. Once again the countryside was pastoral. Serbia didn't look all the different from Hungary. I tried to sleep a little more before arrival.

In Yugoslavia I was completely free to stay where I wished - it was more like a Western European country. I arrived to overcast and gloomy weather

Notes:

Budapest, Hungary to Belgrade, Yugoslavia (train)

The ride was not too comfortable and even in First Class the seats didn't fold together to make a bed. It didn't matter that much - with an early morning border crossing (3:30am) who was going to sleep anyway?

(to be continued)

July 3 (a park, Belgrade, Yugoslavia)

The border crossing was long and I had to get off the train to get my visa stamp. I was momentarily worried as a bunch of Greeks in front of me were having a hard time (and being charged fees), but mine was no hassle and free (Thank God!). The train totally filled up from the border town, Subotica, onward. The part of Serbia we crossed into was much like Hungary, rolling hills.

YUGOSLAVIA

July 1987

Beograd

Castle Tower

Danube and Saba Rivers

Beograd was HOT. I changed money and walked to the main tourist office - it was still closed. While waiting for it to open, I cooled off with some ice cream. Ice cream in Eastern Europe tasted oddly unsatisfying since its consistency was like "cool whip". Only in Czechoslovakia was the taste "normal" (i.e., tasted like I was used to). Finally, the tourist office opened and they directed me to an agency for private rooms. At that place I met Tau Cheng from Singapore who was keen on sharing a room. Since I was in extreme save money mode, I agreed. It took a long time to secure a place and during the wait we met Jan who was waiting with friends for the same. When Tau Cheng and I finally got our place, we discovered it was 30 minutes out of the city center. We boarded a bus and hoped for the best.

Luckily on the bus we met a guy who spoke French and told us where to disembark (one stop too late). After asking multiple people, we found the room in a basement apartment. Although not wonderful, it was clean. We both washed up and caught our breath before heading back into town to explore.

After all that I had seen and done, Belgrade was totally and utterly disappointing. My heart went out to the Serbs who seem to be constantly maligned. I am certain I would have a bad attitude toward life, too, if my capital city had been destroyed in virtually every European conflict for the last 1,000 years. Belgrade didn't have much of anything historic left since it had all been built and destroyed so many times. Even after that 1987 visit, it was bombed again. The city simply couldn't catch a break.

We walked all over "old" Beograd and found it dull. The castle (in ruins) gives a great view over the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers. For me, that was the most memorable part of the city. Beograd presented itself as not very modern, without a preserved "old town". It felt hot and dirty (and disappointing) - strangely similar downtown York, PA, a city of a few bright spots in a not-so-nice setting.

We had a cheap lunch in a stand up place and then Tau Cheng went accompanied me to the bus station where I inquired about tickets to Putinci, Mrs. Lukas' hometown north of the city. After a lot of searching, I found a bus map showing that village. I bought a seat for the following day to Ruma, the nearest "big" town where I could catch a local bus. I then discovered there were no trains to Dubrovnik and I had to take a bus. Unfortunately, the bus departed at 3pm (not at night as I thought) which required me to stay another night in the city (or give up on visiting Putinci which I was not willing to do). How ironic that I was forced to stay in a place I disliked while previously not having enough time in those I enjoyed. Additionally, I booked the ferry ticket from Dubrovnik to Greece. Unfortunately. the place did not accept my credit card, so I had to take a cash advance to make the purchase. I was seriously running out of money.

Tau Cheng was leaving the following day for Singapore so he was happy to tag along with me that evening. With a some of its streets packed with restaurants and bars, admittedly, Belgrade did have a LOT more nightlife than other Eastern capitals because it was so "open" to the West. Food and alcohol were in abundance - it was the vacation hotspot for the whole Warsaw Pact. However, the Serbs were dour, the weather was overcast, and the city looked blah. Until today it remains the worst European capital/major city I visited and I sincerely have no desire to return. Luckily, we ran into Jan and his friends again and decided to make an evening of it.

Our little dinner party could not have thrown together more different people. Jan had just finished a six-month study in Africa. He had lived there as a child and then grew up in Iowa. Tau Cheng was a very upstanding sort, a "new generation" Singaporean. Bob, Jan's friend, was an "I love Amerka" kind of guy from Allentown. Although nice, I disliked him as soon as he started to talk. And finally, Robert was a laid-back Swede whose parents were Slovenian. How Robert and Bob got along with each other seemed mysterious to me as they were so different. Lucky for us, Robert could get by in Serbian.

Note: Slavic languages appeared so close to each other as I traveled. Almost anyone I met who spoke one of them could easily get by in another - far more than say, a French person in Spain.

Tau Cheng and I left early. I needed some eye drops as my eyes had been irritated since Budapest. I promised Jan that after Tau Cheng left, he could share the room with me. We agreed to meet the following day after I returned from Putinci. Tau Cheng and I arrived back in the room and fell into deep sleeps.

The following morning Tau Cheng and I parted ways. I set off for Ruma.

Notes:

Belgrade, Yugoslavia

I changed money in the station and then set off (in the heat) to find a room. I went to the Central Tourist Office to find it "closed for a short break". I had an ice cream to cool off. Some of the ice cream I've had in Eastern Europe has been more like Cool Whip, it is so light and fluffy (I preferred what I had in Czechoslovakia). I returned to the tourist office and they directed me to a private room agency where I met Tau Cheng from Singapore. He was a very nice guy who wanted to share a room. We waited a very long time together. We also met Jan who was waiting for some friends for a room as well. Unluckily, the room we were given was a 30 minute bus ride out in the suburbs.

We boarded a bus and a man who spoke fluent French told us where to disembark (one stop too late). After asking six different people, we finally located the room. It was a basement apartment and not so great, but then again, it was clean and had a shower and toilet. After some serious clean up (shower) and relaxing, Tau Cheng and I returned to town and walked all over the old part of the city. I found it dull. The castle park was nice, but the castle itself wasn't much. The view over the junction of the Sava and Danube Rivers is quite lovely.

Beograd is a hot, semi-old, semi-modern, dirty place. It reminded me of downtown York, PA (just bigger). We ate in a stand-up place for less than $2 and I bought my ticket to Ruma to visit Mrs. Lukas' village. It took a lot of inquiries, but I finally found a map with her original village on it (Putinci). My plan was to spend the next day getting there and exploring.

I couldn't get a train ticket to Dubrovnik, so I went to the bus station to find I could only purchase one the following day. I did manage to book my ticket to Greece from Dubrovnik which turned into an odyssey of trying to put it on my Visa card, failing, and then trying to find a place that would give me a cash advance on my card. I eventually accomplished it all (with Tau Cheng in tow). I got the money and the ticket. My only concern was getting out of Beograd and onto Dubrovnik. Tau Cheng was just killing time as his flight to Singapore was the following day. He didn't mind tagging along with me for all my travel drama (considering how dull and uninteresting Beograd was). At the end of the day we met Jan and Bob and Robert (his friends) and all went out for a beer. We were happy to sit down!

(to be continued)

July 3 (Skadarlija, Beograd, Yugoslavia)

We were certainly a mismatched group of five people: Tau Cheng, a very upstanding, new generation Singaporean; Jan, a 2o year-old who just finished a six-month study in Africa (he lived there as a child and later moved to Iowa); Bob, a total right-wing "I love Amerka" guy from Allentown (I disliked him instantly, but he was friendly); and Robert, a laid back Swede who was traveling with Bob (how they got together, who knows?). We shared stories over beers. Robert's parents were Slovenian so he could get by in Serbo-Croatian. I think only Slavic languages will be helpful here - they all seem so interrelated. I promised to meet Jan the next day to share the room after Tau Cheng left. Tau Cheng and I went back early so I could purchase some eye drops (my eyes have been irritated since Budapest). Finally, we returned to the room for a long sleep.

The next morning Tau Cheng and I parted ways as I had to get to the bus station early to buy my ticket to Dubrovnik and then catch the bus to Ruma. The ticket was only for 3pm so I had to take that or stay another night. That meant giving up on seeing Mrs Lukas' hometown, but I simply did not want to stay in Beograd longer than necessary.

Putinci

The stop in Belgrade was not only to see that city. My Danau Schwabian neighbors of whom I wrote earlier were descendants of Germans who migrated down the Danube to populate lands emptied by endless wars and plagues. The same people for whom I had gone to Villach, Austria to check out an old refugee camp had grown up near Beograd. I was finally going to visit one of their hometowns, Putinci. North of Belgrade, following verbal instructions from Barbara Lukas, I took the bus toward Ruma.

The ride was through farmland looking like rural Pennsylvania. I arrived in Ruma and with some confusion found the bus to Putinci. After a short ride, I got off to explore. My immediate impression was that the village was extremely rural and undeveloped. In fact, it looked like there might not have been running water because everyone was at the village well with containers. In the center of town stood an abandoned Catholic church, the last remnant of the once large German community there. No one spoke English (nor German), although many people tried to explain things to me (in Serbian). My overall impression was that the place had Eastern and Western European influences (just as the whole country did). I picked a few wildflowers which I pressed into Let's Go, got a simple lunch at the local market, and then headed back toward Beograd.

The visit was another kind of pilgrimage for me to witness a place I had heard about so much growing up. Those stories of the "old country" had stoked my travel lust from an early age. At last I was standing in the very town of which I had heard stories since childhood. In the days of Austro-Hungary, it was a small hamlet in the province of Banat whose capital was Timisoara (now Romania, where I had colleagues from work in Saudi Arabia). The people of Banat spoke Serbian, German, Romanian, and Hungarian - talk about cosmopolitan! For shopping they travelled to Timisoara or went down to Belgrade. What of Putinci? Well, it was a small, poor town probably looking not much different from when the Lukas' left. Some houses were still abandoned and the German Catholic Church stood in ruin. Such a shame we weren't in the internet age because I might have found her old house and taken photos of it.. I tried to ask the people of the town, but as soon as they understood I was asking after old German residents, they admitted to knowing little. Of course, not being able to communicate effectively didn't help. I took photos of the place and saved the wildflowers to give as a gift later. Overall I thought the Lukas' were lucky even if they had been expelled from Yugoslavia and had to spend time in a refugee camp in Austria. The life they made for themselves in America far exceeded what I saw around me in Putinci. Although their removal from Yugoslavia was harsh (ethnic Germans were basically rounded up and told to leave immediately), they enjoyed a much better life in the end.

I had the name of Joe Lukas' hometown, but it was farther away and time was limited. I couldn't imagine it was much different from Putinci anyway. I had fulfilled a goal of visiting the place that helped stoke my thirst for travel and knowledge of the world outside York County, Pennsylvania. It was enough.

Notes:

Finding Putinci, Serbia, Yugoslavia

The ride to Ruma was through more farm country that looked like "home". I changed buses and after some confusion finally got off in Putinci. The village held nothing of note except that it was very rural. In the center stood an old Catholic church as a reminder of the German community that used to live there. I got the impression that the village had no running water in their homes as the village well was in constant use. Everyone was very friendly (and they have been everywhere in Yugoslavia, contrary to what I had heard). They told me about the old church (in Serbian). I slowly walked around noting it was a mix of things from both Eastern and Western Europe. It was just that mix that made Yugoslavia "the land between". I grabbed some ham and cheese at a shop and then caught the bus back to Ruma and then onto Beograd. I felt satisfied to have visited a town that had influenced my growing up so much (albeit indirectly). It was a big goal of the trip accomplished. I didn't feel too bad not to visit Mr. Lukas' village, too. I had the feeling all such villages were the same and no one spoke English (nor German).

Beograd (again)

Back in Beograd it was hot. I had seen the "sights", so I went back to the castle park to listen to music and catch up with the travel journal. I was ready to move on. In the park I ran into a couple of Polish-Australians who had been traveling around Europe. They had almost nothing good to say about the East - I understood where they were coming from. Later in the day I met Jan who was relieved I remembered my offer to stay with me his last night in the city (it was either that or sleeping rough in the train station). We got a beer together and then talked a lot on the bus back to the room. The guy had seen and done a lot for a 20 year old. I was happy to meet him again.

The next day I still had time on my hands. I sat in a cafe in the "old" part of town and continued to catch up with the journal. Jan was off to Istanbul. I met many people in Hungary and Yugoslavia traveling to Turkey because it was so much cheaper than Eastern Europe. I admit to feeling temptation to follow suit at that time, but I was seriously out of money. I didn't want to return to the US in debt (without a job).

Notes:

I had a full afternoon of nothing to do (and it was stinking hot). I returned to the castle park to catch up with this journal (and listened to my walkman). I met two, young Polish-Australians who were traveling around Europe. They didn't have too much good to say about anything in the East. I couldn't blame them. I met a few Swedes at the station later who lived near the Arctic Circle. They were very friendly. Finally I met Jan who was relieved I remembered to meet him as his great fear was having to spend a night in the rough at the train station. We had a beer and talked all the way back to room on the bus. He really has it all together for a 20 year-old. I enjoyed meeting him.

Today I leave Beograd. The city is the worst I have seen on the entire trip. Even as I sit in the restored "old section" of town and write, I wish I were on my way to the sunny, blue Adriatic. Jan left - he was headed to Istanbul. Lucky guy!

Beograd to Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia (bus)

The next day's journey was on an overnight bus as the train was not an option. For 13 hours the bus twisted and turned on narrow mountain roads. There was no AC and it rained most of the ride, so the windows could not be opened Everyone seemed in a bad mood. We stopped in Sarajevo (at night) - it looked intriguing from the bus window. Perhaps I would return one day. It was my first long-distance bus ride in Europe, all on two-lane roads. After all that traveling, I still hated long bus rides. I was a confirmed train person.

I knew we would soon arrive as I caught glimpses of the Adriatic. It was so exciting to be on the sea again (and back in the sunshine). I had been land-locked for a couple of months. The bus dropped us outside the old city. Time to find a room, but it was 4:00am!

Notes:

Beograd to Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia (bus)

July 6 (Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia)

Thirteen hours on a bus filled with temperamental Serbs and little or no A/C. Bad weather kept the windows shut a lot of the journey. However, the journey wasn't that terrible compared to others I experienced in the last few months. Sarajevo (even at night) looked like a nice place to return one day. I arrived in Dubrovnik at 4:00am.

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik harbor

Old City walls

Old City

An old man at the bus stop promised me a room as I waited for the city to open, then suddenly he back out. I found the youth hostel and sat outside patiently before it opened for the day. As I waited, I met a Serbian/Greek who was desperately trying to impress me. He spoke of many things with great authority, but after some conversation I found he had no cash nor job. I was suddenly less impressed (but amused - he helped pass the time). When the hostel opened, no rooms were available, but the guy working there helped find me a room in a newly renovated pension (his help was well-received). I located the place and it indeed was spotlessly clean, freshly painted (still smelling of the paint - eww), and managed by a young couple. The room had a view of the Adriatic at an incredible price! The managers were extraordinarily kind and friendly, too. I freshened up after the stuffy bus ride and walked downhill to the old city.

Dubrovnik was a tourist mecca for both Eastern Europeans and Western Europeans who "braved" the East even then. In those days it was almost a secret destination - no one had heard of it outside the Eastern Bloc. After visiting, similar to Prague, I predicted it would become famous once more people visited. I was, unfortunately, correct. An intact walled city built by the Venetians on a spectacular coastline - who would NOT fall in love with it?

I walked into the walled, old city and was blown away. Not Krakow or Prague, it was old, but a different kind of old. The streets were paved with f....g MARBLE. Who made streets of marble?? I wandered the old town and the city walls. Dubrovnik was ancient, intact, beautiful, and on the stunningly blue Adriatic. The weather was summer sunny. I had left the often gray overcast skies of central Europe behind. After all I had seen and done in the past few months, I could still be wowed.

I ran across a peach vendor on the street. I had not eaten good, yellow peaches in a very long time (years). The ones in grown in Japan for me were largely flavorless. I bought a kilo of peaches, washed them in a nearby public fountain, and devoured them on the spot. The vendor likely thought I was insane.

Serendipity

Walking down the Stradun, the wide, marble-paved main street in the old town, I literally ran into a guy with his nose in a guidebook. It was Tim C, a good friend from Georgetown whose parents I visited many times in Japan over the last few years. His father worked on an American Air Force base, Misawa, a few hours north of Sendai by train. Tim and I had made tentative plans to meet up in Rome where he was studying, but in the pre-mobile phone and internet age, it was hard to keep him apprised of my changing travel plans. What were the chances we would run into each other? We quickly caught up on each others lives. Then I changed my lodging to Tim's much better digs (even though I thought mine was one of the best rooms of the entire trip). I was lucky on so many counts - meeting an old friend AND meeting someone who knew a lot more about Dubrovnik than I did. Tim was at the beginning of his love affair with Italy which would culminate in his marrying an Italian woman and becoming a professor of Italian Literature at Cornell.

In those first hours together we had a great time relating our last few years' experiences to each other. We agreed that living abroad had changed our lives and world views. We also admitted that returning to life in the US would present a challenge. Tim was more relaxed that I had ever seen him. The time he was spending in Rome was good for him. We walked the old city and talked. The conversation alternated between Tim explaining parts of Dubrovnik to me and bringing each other up to speed on our radically changed lives. I didn't realize how much I needed to talk to a real friend after all those months. I was happy (and relieved) beyond belief.

Dubrovnik was founded by the Romans but made into the existing, enchanting walled city by the Venetians. In Italian, Dubrovnik was formerly known as "Ragusa", a formerly semi-independent, wealthy vassal state of Venice for centuries. The old city is laden with Italian masterpieces (Tim knew most of them). Even if I hadn't made it to Italy, I managed to see a small piece of it in exile. In the later break-up of Yugoslavia those unhappy Serbs in Belgrade even shelled the old city. I was outraged! Luckily it escaped a lot of damage. I was honestly shocked since I guessed many residents of dull, gray Belgrade had happy memories of visiting Dubrovnik, too.

Tim had rented a vespa and we took one day to explore the nearby coast. The roads were traffic-free and the views were spectacular. It was one of the high points of the entire trip for me. The following day we visit Lokrum Island - a practically deserted place with a great beach. I cannot express how happy I was in those moments. It felt almost cathartic. Sadly, Tim continued on with his trip (north along the Dalmatian Coast) and I stayed another day. I returned to Lokrum for a swim with an old mask Tim left for me. I had to live it up - the next day I was booked on the boat to Greece.

Reflections on Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik was one of the most memorable cities of the entire trip. After being solo for so long, I met an old friend. Since leaving Hong Kong months before, I had not seen the sea, and it wasn't just any sea, it was the lovely, blue Adriatic. As a bonus, Dubrovnik was old. Although in the Eastern Bloc, President Tito of Yugoslavia walked a delicate tightrope of appeasing both East and West, Dubrovnik didn't feel like the East at all (it wasn't). The residents of all those gray cities to the north came in droves. Peter Chelkowski, my friend and ex-colleague from NYU, related to me that as a youth in Poland he did a tour from Krakow to Dubrovnik. Upon arrival he literally thought he had died and gone to heaven. Understandably so - summer in Eastern Europe was only occasionally sunny and the going to the "sea" was more likely visiting a lake. I felt Peter's words when he told me that story. I experienced the same.

I was seriously low on money. Tim had moved on and it was time for me to head south. I boarded the ferry to Greece with a LOT of other young travelers.

Notes:

Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia

I waited until 6:00am for an old man who had promised me a room, but then later backed down. I went up to the youth hostel and while waiting I met a Serbian/Greek guy who was nice, but a little too impressed with himself (surprisingly, he had no job nor money). He ended up being my comic relief that morning. The youth hostel was (of course) full, but the absolutely great guy working there found me a room in a pension for a very reasonable price. The room was freshly painted (still smelled - yuck), spotless, and overlooked the Adriatic. The young couple who managed it were adorable - so kind and friendly. I got a bit freshened up and then headed off to the old city.

Wow.... Dubrovnik. A walled city, all intact, all preserved, built by the Venetians on one of Europe's most spectacular coastlines. Who would NOT fall in love with it? I wandered its back streets, stumbled upon a peach vendor, bought some, and then.... I met Tim C!

He said he had waited for me in Rome, but when I didn't show up, he took off for Yugoslavia. We had a great time catching up and talked about how much living abroad had changed our lives (and how difficult it would be returning to the States). Tim was so much more relaxed than I had ever seen him. I think the move to Rome was a good one. We spent most of our time strolling, eating, and talking. We took a fabulous motor scooter ride down the coast (he had rented one) and then another nice day out on Lokrum Island nearby. Tim left and I returned to Lokram to swim with an old mask he left for me to use. Dubrovnik was a real highlight of the trip!

Tomorrow I take the boat to Greece!

Note:

My notebook ran out of pages and I knew the trip was coming to a close. Unfortunately, I did not keep a journal of the last few days of the trip.

Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia - Igoumenitsa, Greece (ferry)

A passenger ferry regularly plied the Adriatic between Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia and Igoumenitsa, Greece in the summer months. Albania at that time was off-limits to nearly everyone with its completely xenophobic regime, so without a huge land detour, the sea route was the best option to get to Greece. We all stared in awe at the forbidden, mountainous coast of Albania as we passed before the sun set on its very dark coastline (very few lights). A place in EUROPE that was still basically closed off to everyone, the country was absolutely mysterious.

The boat was filled with travelers like me so there was no lack of company and much information to be exchanged. Some people were disembarking in Igoumenitsa only to board another boat for Corfu right off the coast. It didn't appeal to me - my only association with Corfu was a place where Brits of a generation before used to holiday. Having made some new travel friends on the boat, a few of whom were headed to Athens like me, we all decided to get on the bus immediately upon landing rather than stay the night in the port city (and spend more money). It was my second and final long bus journey of the trip.

GREECE

July 1987

Igoumenitsa to Athens (bus)

The bus took all night and half of the next day to get to Athens. Greece appeared barren after crossing the green countries to the north. Why would people sing the praises of a place that was so desertified. Greece from the bus window looked alien. One highlight of was crossing the Gulf of Corinth on a high bridge. The crossing didn't take long, but the scenery was spectacular. I was surprised that such a lovely place wasn't talked about more in the guidebook. Eventually the bus arrived in Athens. I made my way to a hostel with people from the bus. I was in Athens! (I was also seriously low on cash)

Some of my new ferry/bus friends were continuing onto Turkey, supposedly amazing and cheap (no doubt true), but I wasn't sure I was ready for that level of adventure without much cash. Others were off to the Greek islands - they said casual jobs were available, so at least it wouldn't cost anything to stay. I also wasn't prepared to work illegally on a Greek island just to extend an already long journey. I also wasn't willing to return to the US with my credit card maxed out.

I decided to go home, but I had to see Athens first.

Athens

Acropolis

Temple of Hephaestus

Agora

Acropolis (night)

National Archeological Museum

Memories of Athens are few other than the Parthenon and the National Museum which both impressed me greatly. Unfortunately, due to running out of journal pages, my last few days in Europe have no back up record. It was difficult to get around (again) since I was back to deciphering a different alphabet. Honestly, I was tired of figuring stuff out - the trip no longer felt "adventurous and challenging". Challenges had become a bother. Athens at that time was not tourist friendly either. We arrived with many warnings from fellow travelers and guidebooks to be careful in different parts of the city, especially down by the port. After traveling in 100% safe Eastern Europe, I was not keen on maintaining a state of vigilance. In fact, I hadn't felt "afraid" anywhere since I left the US! That being said, Athens has famous ruins and a great museum - those are what made the biggest impressions.

Acropolis

Even though I was leaving soon, I still had to see the city. The Acropolis and National Museum were both high on my list. When I was in high school I had an Australian pen pal (TKF) of Greek heritage. She went to Greece to visit family. I asked her to send me a "piece of the Parthenon". In fact, she sent me a marble chip from the Acropolis which I absolutely treasured, made into a necklace, and wore for years. I kept it through university, during the time in Japan, and on the return trip as well. Once atop that sacred mount, I carefully freed the stone from its setting and returned it to whence it came - birthplace of Western Civilization. A lot of the Parthenon was scaffolded (disappointing) and the general disrepair of the entire area was more than expected. I thought it would be more intact. Nonetheless, the visit was a high point in my life travels. Those were my first ancient Western ruins other than faint vestiges visited here and there in Eastern Europe. The Parthenon WAS impressive. The views both FROM and OF the Acropolis (especially lit up at night) were magical.

Down off the Acropolis mount I visited the old Agora (actually equally impressive, especially Temple of Hephaestus - why was it not more famous? ) and a few other ancient ruins. The National Archeological Museum with its huge collection of ancient statuary for which Greece is famous was the next big stop. That was art overload. The artistry of those sculptors 2000+ years before became the ideal for much of Western visual art for centuries. The detail looked unbelievable given the basic tools available at that time. Intricately designed mosaics on display were something I had never seen before. The National Archeological Museum was among the first world class museums I had visited (along with the National Museum in Taiwan and the Pergamon in Berlin). I appreciated what I saw in Athens even more because ancient Greek artifacts were not found in Baroque or Gothic churches. I was burnt out on such places.

Perhaps that was my sign - it was time to leave Europe.

Sounion

Temple of Poseidon, Cape Sounion

TKF, my Australian pen pal (and later FB friend), told me that one of the highlights of her trip to Greece was Cape Sounion south of Athens. There stands the Temple of Poseidon. She preferred it even to the Acropolis. One of those recommendations I filed away for "someday" - I was in Athens; "someday" had come. I rode the bus almost two hours (most of which was exiting metro Athens). The scenery finally became rural (dry and dusty) and I got off where the driver indicated. I saw the temple ruins high on a cliff above the sea. I walked a well-trod pathway to the tip of Cape Sounion. TKF was right - the temple's setting was dramatic above the deep blue Aegean. Some of the Greek Islands were even visible off the coast. The ruined temple had no scaffolding and no tourist throngs. I was the only one there.

The temple of Poseidon at Sounion was constructed in 444–440 BC. This was during the ascendancy of the Athenian statesman Pericles, who also rebuilt the Parthenon in Athens. It was built on the ruins of a temple dating from the Archaic period. It is perched above the sea at a height of almost 60 metres. The design of the temple is a typical hexastyle, i.e., it had a front portico with six columns. Only some columns of the Sounion temple stand today, but when intact it would have closely resembled the contemporary and well-preserved Temple of Hephaestus beneath the Acropolis, which may have been designed by the same architect.

(Wikipedia)

It took many years for me to encounter classical ruins that would surpass the Temple of Poseidon in both level of intactness and location. Sounion made a very high bar for Greco-Roman ruins for years to come.

And with that visit to the ancient sea god, I was ready to cross the sea and head back home.

USA - back to reality

I bought a cheap ticket on my credit card and let family know I was finally coming home. As my world travel was neither understood nor appreciated by them,  no one wanted to pick me up at the airport. That was a real kicker. My brother was "busy" and my parents flat out refused. I had been gone three years, too. I began to feel the sting of what life would be like when I didn't fit into everyone else's expectations for me.

I took the train (yet again) from New York City to Pennsylvania. At least someone picked me up at the train station in Lancaster.

I just finished two life-defining experiences - living in Japan and coming back home "the long way". No one cared. My parents were dismayed that I arrived with virtually no cash. Looking back, their concerns were valid. However, their lack of faith in my being able to land a job was disappointing. My grandfather had just gone through prostate surgery and was staying in my old room, so I had to sleep on the sofa. The house was crowded; I felt I was inconveniencing everyone. I did my best to reconnect with people in the pre-internet world - three years absence and only landlines did not make that an easy task. Calling people long distance just added to my mounting debt. Finally, after contacting friends in DC, I returned to a familiar place to restart life.

I was a different person than the young man who had left three years before. My life journey had truly begun.