Spain: El Retiro Park, Madrid
- Matthew P G
- Oct 4
- 2 min read
July 2014
Covering over 125 hectares and comprising more than 15,000 trees, El Retiro Park–recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site–is a green oasis in the heart of the city. In it you’ll find all kinds of interesting monuments and gardens, including Jardín de Vivaces, Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez (Andalusian-inspired classicistic gardens), Jardines del Arquitecto Herrero Palacios, the recently-restored Cat Mountain, the Rosaleda rose garden and Parterre Francés, which holds a Mexican conifer that is nearly 400 years old and is believed to be Madrid’s oldest tree. In addition to its role as one of the city’s green lungs, it is also a popular spot among Madrileños who like to go there for a stroll, to do some sport, visit an exhibition or take the kids to a puppet show. The park is home to a large artificial lake, where you can rent a rowing boat, and to the Velázquez Palace and Glass Palace which are both currently used as exhibition halls by the Reina Sofía Museum. The latter is a beautiful glass pavilion built in 1887 to house exotic plants for an exhibition on the Philippines. It is one the finest examples of cast-iron architecture in Spain.
On that first visit to Madrid, AFVdR insisted we visit El Retiro, the Central Park of Madrid. The place is massive and wonderfully landscaped with a lot of ponds and beautiful buildings. We entered via the grand Puerta de Alcalá at the corner of the park and slowly made our way around. The big "pond", Estanque Grande, was an impressive feature as well as the Crystal Palace. I was coming to Madrid blank slate - I knew literally nothing about it, but I didn't expect it would have such a beautiful urban park at its center. Compared to other large European capital parks, it was superlative. Why did I not know that?
Rather than being built for the public to "relax" like Central Park or Munich's English Garden, El Retiro was built to impress (and enjoy). I am sure many Madrileños do, in fact, come to the park to chill out. However, for the casual visitor, there is much to see (and feel impressed by).
My first time in Madrid I had no idea what to expect and it seemed A was on a mission to show me how unique the city was. He was highly successful. Madrid has other parks for sure, but none compares to the beauty of El Retiro.
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