Spain: San Sebastian (Donostia)

City Hall (ex-casino)

August 2017

I arrived in San Sebastian by bus on a day trip from Bilbao. Riding the little Feve narrow gauge train (I loved it) was an option, but time was limited and the journey was long. By bus it was fast and easy.

I arrived and oriented myself. San Sebastian is right over the border from France and glitzy Biarritz is easily reachable (although I actually wanted to see the more laid-back Saint Jean de Luz). The problem was limited time and slow transportation. Trying to get to France was axed as it took too long, so I decided to stay within the city itself . That turned out to be a good decision.

San Sebastian (Basque: Donostia) was one of the best cities I saw on that trip. I could "feel" France everywhere in both food and architecture. The city was one of those great mergings of cultures in Europe like Strasbourg between France and Germany, or Trieste between Italy and Slovenia. The city itself has a beautiful old quarter built on hilly terrain which creates narrow streets and some "bridges" where one street actually overlooks another - I loved the uniqueness of its layout. Worth noting is that the current city dates from the 19th century (and it looks like it). In San Sabastian's turbulent history Napoleon occupied the city, and in 1813 a combined Anglo-Portuguese force retook it and proceeded to burn it to the ground. Literally nothing survived (sadly).

Before gambling was outlawed, San Sebastian's Casino was famous and the jet set poured over the border from France to gamble. After gambling became illegal, the lovely building was repurposed into the City Hall. Additionally, the city has a few beautiful beaches within its limits and the water is clear. A place where I wished I had budgeted more time, San Sebastian was a city I could only rush around and get a taste of. Travel in the Basque Country (at least until they finish the high speed rail links) is painfully slow by public transportation.

As with other towns on the north coast of Spain, Donostia is a place I would love to return and take a room for a week. The town itself has a great vibe (upscale but not as overwhelming as Santander) and the possibility of day trips abounds. Basque people are down to earth - post-industrial, no-nonsense types. Due to their hard work, Spain prospered during the early Industrial Revolution. Whatever hard feelings they might harbor for Spanish speakers, they are incredibly welcoming to foreigners (and don't mind speaking Spanish at all).

After the "Basque-Y" of Spain's high speed rail is completed, trains will run from Madrid to both Bilbao and San Sebastian splitting off at Vitoria-Gasteiz (hence the "Y"). That should make travel between the three main Basque cities much easier in the future - and the Spanish are working on the line (very slowly).

On my return list (perhaps on a high speed train from Madrid? or Paris?), San Sebastian. Next time I will not be in a rush.