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Diamond Jubilee: Soulard Market, St. Louis

July 2021. Before leaving I wanted to see at least one neighborhood in St. Louis. Just outside of downtown lies Soulard with its old market - highly recommended. Prior to any buildings, local farmers set up in a ring with horses and wagons, from which they would sell their goods. Some farmers would set up as early as 3 a.m., customers would arrive around 6 a.m., and by 10 a.m. the market would be full of people. In the late 1830s–1840s, a main market building was built and

Southern Africa: the safari trip

July 1998 Brian and I wanted to add "safari" to our list of travels. I wrote a short follow up to our whirlwind trip through Southern Africa. The main memory of that trip was an unseasonable cold snap. We were worried about malaria and tropical disease before we departed - I don't even think we saw a mosquito the entire time! For the second time in two years, Brian and I rendezvoused in Zurich Airport. Brian had just spent the day in the city after his long flight from

Diamond Jubilee: Union Station, St. Louis

July 2021 The first train pulled into Union Station on September 1, 1894 at 1:45pm, ushering in a new and exciting time for St. Louis. The city known for being the gateway to the West suddenly became a gateway to all of America. Over the next several years, Union Station would become one of the largest and busiest passenger rail terminals in the world. The station saw some of its highest traffic during the World’s Fair of 1904 and World War II. Travelers moved in droves thro

Jakarta: on having servants

Bali 1995 In the pre-internet days, I was sent an Op-Ed from the New Yorker written by a woman who spent a holiday in Bali with friends living there. The focus was on how "strange" she felt living with people who had servants (a very guilty pleasure). I largely agreed with her take on the experience and wrote my own response. (I have edited and updated it) 1995 It is a hot summer day in Jakarta, but then again, every day is a hot summer day as there is little variation in

Diamond Jubilee: downtown St. Louis

July 2021 With the exception of feeling sad that LaClede Landing was all that remained of Old St. Louis, I was still on a high about the city before I walked through "downtown" on my way to the former train station. My opinion of St Louis was about to change radically. I first passed the Federal Reserve Bank (not surprising given the past importance and location of the city). Then I entered downtown. Even during COVID, it was clear that the city center had fallen on ver

Spain: Wayang Golek, Valencia

January 2020 While exploring a largely shuttered Valencia (due to Epiphany), I came across this outdoor painting. I was surprised mainly because Indonesian art is not very popular outside of Indonesia (with the exception of the Netherlands). What was even more striking to me was that it was not the entrance to an Indonesian restaurant - it appeared random. Wayang Golek in Valencia? I was filled with questions - it was all so unexpected. The mural was also "incorrect".

Diamond Jubilee: LaClede's Landing, St. Louis

July 2021 All that remains of "Old St Louis" is the small neighborhood of LaClede's Landing down on the Mississippi. The area now is filled with shops and restaurants with a lovely path to walk along the river. It made me realize that St Louis is actually built far above the floodplain of the river (good choice), so it has escaped the ravages of flooding over the years. The quest for founding the city of St. Louis began in 1763, when a French merchant named Pierre Laclèd

Chittagong: Tunnel of Love

December 2024 In South Asia, weddings (for those who can afford them) are over-the-top affairs. In Bangladesh, outdoor lights are used to announce the upcoming betrothal of a daughter. At a minimum the street adjacent to her family home becomes a tunnel of light. Sometimes entire buildings are decorated (multi-story units). It feels like Christmas for about a week and then they are gone. A huge business exists in providing such displays. As I lived in a wealthy enclav

Diamond Jubilee: Gateway Arch National Park

July 2021 I was never compelled to visit the Gateway Arch. Built to impress, it always looked out of place in photos. In my case, it is a monument that needed to be visited in person. It IS impressive and overwhelming. I am so happy my travels led me to it. Beyond its memorial significance, the arch is something that can be photographed multiple angles at various times of day to yield very beautiful (and different) results. I became an arch fan shortly after walking u

Spain: Toledo Synagogue

June 2018 Toledo’s former major Synagogue, today Santa María la Blanca, is an icon of the city and of sephardic history in it. Its white columns have been a symbol of Toledo for centuries, transporting visitors to a bygone era and offering a haven of peace in today’s bustling world. The monument is well preserved, allowing visitors to appreciate its original design. The large surrounding garden offers a space to relax and enjoy a unique experience. Recently, an innovative LE

Diamond Jubilee: Gateway Mall, St Louis

After exiting the library, I came back to the green axis cutting across St Louis' city center. Even grander than the one in Indianapolis, it extends from the Gateway Arch on the river to the former Union Station. The size is just a little shorter than then National Mall in Washington, DC. Soldier's Memorial Military Museum Following World War I the City of St. Louis set out to memorialize the 1,072 local service members who made the ultimate sacrifice in the War to End All

Chittagong: St Mary's church

December 2024 The early history of Jamalkhan Catholic Church goes back to 1600 A.D. when the first Church was built by Fr. Francisco Fernandez, S.J. and dedicated to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. The first mass was celebrated there by Fr. Fernandez on December 8, 1600. For a long time, this center was under the pastoral care of the Cathedral parish, and officiating priests used to visit the parish for masses, feast days, etc. The majority of the parishioners were mo

Diamond Jubilee: Central Library, St Louis

The train ride to the Gateway City was short from Springfield and I felt excited to explore a new place. We crossed the Mississippi from Illinois and I caught a glimpse of the Gateway Arch. Sadly, the city skyline was underwhelming. The train slowly pulled into the station. St Louis long ago abandoned its beautiful railway station and now Amtrak serves a mostly underground, bus/train terminal. Exiting was confusing and I needed to cross a highway to get to the hotel

Spain: Alcázar de Toledo

June 2018 The hilltop city of Toledo is crowned by a fortress. The castle is visible from all over the city as well as from a distance. That imposing Spanish castle/fort is located right in the city center. Once used as a Roman palace in the 3rd century, it was turned into a fortress in the 10th century during the reign of Cordoba Caliph Abd ar-Rahman III. It was restored under Charles I (Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor) and his son Philip II of Spain in the 1540s. In 152

Diamond Jubilee: wandering in Springfield, Illinois

Springfield took me completely by surprise. What a lovely place: it is a state capital yet retains a small city charm. The city is not as podunk as Frankfort, Kentucky (which I loved, but is extremely small), yet feels frozen in time from a gentler age. There were several things I liked about Springfield: railway tracks The north-south train tracks run through town at grade. They are still in use by both freight trains and Amtrak. That means that when a train passes t

Chittagong: Ashkar Dighi

The historic Ashkar Dighi is three centuries old and presently covers an area of no less than five acres, and so must be protected by law. The Detailed Area Plan (DAP) of Chittagong Development Authority (CDA) also requires that any water body exceeding 0.5 acre should be preserved. The authorities concerned, however, seem to be uncaring when the dighi's existence is threatened in encroachment, earth filling, and pollution. The age-old water body, with which the history of

Diamond Jubilee: Illinois Statehouse, Springfield

July 2021 If there was one thing I liked about Springfield, it was its "low rise" skyline. The city only has two or three "tall" (not really) multi-story buildings, so the state capitol dome is visible from many places in town. I decided to enter following the tradition AQ and I had started on the trip. I missed him a lot - mainly because it ended up being the best state capitol building I had ever seen. I sorely wished he had come as far as Springfield and returned a

Spain: Puerta del Sol, Madrid

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree. July 2014 The Puerta del Sol (English: "Gate of the Sun") is a public square in Madrid, one of the best known and busiest places in the city. This is the centre (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads. The square also contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year. The New Year's celebration has been broadcast live since 31 December 1962 on major radio and televisi

Diamond Jubilee: Oak Ridge Cemetery, Springfield, Illinois

A slightly longish walk from downtown lies the Oak Ridge Cemetery - final resting place of President Lincoln. Learning the history of his tomb and burial was fascinating (and rather disturbing). The entrance avenue to the cemetery is stately but now lined with normal homes. At the time the mausoleum was opened to the public, there was a steady stream of visitors, so the entrance avenue looked like other such places that cater to visitors - filled with establishments create

Spain: fields of grain

June 2018 The province of Castille & León produces most of Spain's wheat. Spain's output is similar to Italy's and varies greatly year on year due to climate (mostly rainfall). Given that parts of Spain are nearly desert-like at times, I was surprised to find wheatfields at all. On several journeys using long distance trains, I passed through endless fields of grain. Spain is not even close to being a big player in wheat production.    It certainly consumes all it grows a

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Samsara

Observations of Life

"A stone with no moss" has been my motto.  My experiences and commentary from travels both near and far.  No hate, unfiltered.

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